Yosemite National P ark, and in particular Yosemite Valley, is home to some of the most famous wilderness landmarks in America. But north of the Valley, and north of Highway 120 and Tuolumne Meadows, resides an area of the park known as the Yosemite Wilderness. And in the same way that the mighty Merced River cuts its way through the 3,000+ foot deep Yosemite Valley, so too does the powerful Tuolumne River cut its way through a similarly spectacular canyon in the Yosemite Wilderness know simply as The Grand Canyon of Tuolumne. This huge river runs West and Southwest from Tuolumne Meadows, through Glen Aulin and then almost 20 miles to the massive Hetch Hetchy Reservoir – all the while cutting its way through the deep and massive Grand Canyon of Tuolumne. The Grand Canyon features a series of famous waterfalls at it’s upper/Eastern end, including Waterwheel Falls, LeConte Falls, California Falls and Tuolumne Falls.

Trail Details

Trail Map Distance: 47.1 miles
Time: 5 days
Difficulty: Moderately Strenuous
Elevation Gain: ~10,000 ft
Dogs: No
When to Go: Mid-June to Early September. For BIG waterfalls, early summer is best.

The Grand Canyon of Tuolumne can be backpacked as a multi-day out-and-back from either its West side or East Side, or it can be backpacked as a loop – starting from either Tuolumne Meadows or from White Wolf. We decided to backpack it as a loop starting and ending at White Wolf in a fantastic 5-day, 50-mile backcountry adventure.

Why start/end at White Wolf? Several reasons:

• During 2022, the Tuolumne Meadows backpacker’s camp was CLOSED for restoration and repairs. This eliminated the opportunity to sleep there the night before our start for acclimation and gear shakedowns. The White Wolf campground was open and available.
• The White Wolf campground is much closer to the entrance to the GC of Tuolumne, eliminating the out-and-back miles that would have to be repeated from Tuolumne Meadows to Glen Aulin and back.
• The White Wolf campground day one start would be almost all downhill into the GC of Tuolumne – a good way to start day one.

Planning the Trip

We booked our backcountry permit online through the Yosemite backcountry permit system exactly 168 days prior to our entry date. The map we used to plan our route was the Tom Harrison Yosemite High Country Map. This one map shows the entire route. We chose the following schedule for our trip – hoping that this would keep our average miles around 10 miles per day and also put us near water each night:

• Travel Day One: Drive to Yosemite National Park via Highway 395 and Highway 120 – enter YNP at the Highway 120 Eastern Gate. Acquire our backcountry permit at the Tuolumne Meadows ranger station. Then drive to White Wolf, sign in and pay the money at the drop box, and pitch camp in the White Wolf backpackers camp.
• Day One: Hike from White Wolf North to Harden Lake, then East/Northeast and down into the GC of Tuolumne to Pate Valley.  
• Day Two: Hike East up the GC of Tuolumne to Waterwheel Falls.
• Day Three: Hike East up and out of the GC of Tuolumne to Glen Aulin, then South to the May Lake / Ten Lakes trail junction with a side trip to Polly Dome Lakes.
• Day Four: Hike West around Tuolumne Peak to Ten Lakes.
• Day Five: Hike over Ten Lakes Pass and then South and West to White Wolf, load up the car and then head home via a night in Bishop.

Total (Tom Harrison Map) Miles (including the side trip to Polly Dome Lakes): 48.9 Miles.

(NOTE: Actual GPS hiking mileage as recorded by the GaiaGPS for iPhone app was 53.35 Miles.

Map of the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne Loop

Day One – White Wolf Campground to Pate Valley

The trail from White Wolf Campground starts as a fire access road heading North towards the GC. In just under three miles you reach Harden Lake, which during our late-summer trip was quite low.

From Harden Lake the trail heads east and Down, Down, Down into the GC, winding its way 3,000 vertical feet to the canyon floor and the Tuolumne River. During this first week of September, the cool temperatures of White Wolf would skyrocket to over 100 degrees at the canyon floor! The switchback trail winds it way down Morrison Creek, which at this time of year was bone dry. 

The smoke from the Rogers fire was burning high up on the opposite canyon ridge, so we were in no danger. Looking back, there are a few good view points where you can make out the Hetch Hetchy reservoir to the West. This would be a much prettier hike earlier in the season, with some fun water crossings too.

Once at the canyon floor, the trail winds East/Northeast along the river. At approximately 10 miles in from White Wolf, you arrive at Pate Valley. There’s a large summer work camp there, and several bridges that cross over the Tuolumne River from the south side to the north side. Next to the main bridge is a fairly large area of calm river and several sandy beaches where we were able to get our shoes off and soak in the cold river water for some relief from the 100-degree heat! Pate Valley is known for its rattlesnake activity, and today was no exception. No sooner did we set foot on the beach than a huge black rattler greeted us. Needless to say we selected another spot to sit!

After a rattlesnake-free soak in the river, we decided to pack up and head up the trail further to find a more shaded campsite, as the sites at the Pate Valley bridge were very sun-exposed. We found a nice little spot along the trail with good river access about a mile up the trail, and pitched camp. It would be a hot night in the tent, with temps never getting below the mid-70s, sleeping on top of our bags…not in them. But we would get some sleep in the end. We would need it for the BIG climbing day tomorrow.

Day Two – Upper Pate Valley to Waterwheel Falls

Day Two of our adventure in the Grand Canyon of Tuolumne would be our big climbing day, as we would be heading directly UP the canyon. We woke to continued warm temps, had coffee and hit the trail while still dark to try and catch as much cool weather as we could. NOTE: try and avoid the biggest heatwave of the summer when doing this trip. Less than a mile up the trail, Pate Valley delivered its second rattlesnake sighting. This guy was sprawled out across the trail – and he was a big one! After throwing small rocks near him for a while, he finally decided to move out of the trail and into the woods – and we were able to continue our hike. It would be nice to get out of Pate Valley.

The hike up the Grand Canyon of Tuolumne is stunning. Like it’s big brother Yosemite Valley, the huge walls of granite on both sides of the powerful river make for an absolutely stunning backdrop. Up, up, up the trail climbs – and in places it leaves the canyon floor to climb around large rock formations, making for some challenging switchback ascents. As the temperatures rise again, the ascending becomes more challenging, and we work our way section by section, stopping to drink and rest and give each other pep talks to keep going strong. Again, this would be easier and more pleasant in earlier summer temperatures. The heat wave was energy sapping.

Finally, after an all-day hike and a final set of steep switchies, we arrive at Waterwheel Falls. Again, the late season waterfall flow is less than the majestic photos found in guide books, but it’s still quite beautiful and the perfect place to spend the night. The view from the top of the falls looking West unfolds to the grand canyon below, and the view to the East displays the most amazing sunset against the granite canyon walls. Above the falls, the river opens up to a beautiful still pond, and we sit on the flat granite and enjoy and perfectly gorgeous evening.

Later that night, the wind would pick up – making our sleep less than peaceful as it buffered our tent repeatedly. But in the end, it was a beautiful spot to enjoy the GC of Tuolumne.

Day Three – Waterwheel Falls to May Lake / Ten Lakes Trail Junction

Day Three is the “Waterfall Money Day” in the GC of Tuolumne. The first three or so miles up to the top of the canyon and Glen Aulin feature a series of gorgeous falls and granite features. Again we started early to beat the heat, so our views of the falls were shaded and lovely.

LeConte Falls

First, we arrive at LeConte Falls. Again, the late season flow is light, but it’s still an absolutely beautiful setting. Next, we climb up to California Falls – and hike in a bit off-trail to get a close up view. After California falls, the trail departs a bit North of the river and winds it way through the stunning Glen Aulin meadow. The walls of the canyon jut straight up from the side of the trail, and the lush green meadow creates an incredibly vibrant color pallet.    As we approach the junction of the Pacific Crest Trail and the Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp, the final water feature is the White Cascade – with its water flow and red rock, the sunrise gives it an absolutely beautiful look.

We stop for a quick rest just after the bridge over the Tuolumne River to admire the magnificent Tuolumne Falls and check out the map for upcoming water sources. Again, the late season schedule as eliminated most if not all of the seasonal water sources – so we need to make sure we’ll have water on this next leg of the trip. After a map review, we decide that we’d better carry and extra load of water – so I fill up our dirty bag at the falls with 4 extra liters of water and strap it to the outside of my pack. Not the most pleasant additional weight, but better safe the sorry. With the water strapped in, we turn away from the PCT (that heads back to Tuolumne Meadows) and head south and UP on the May Lake trail.

As we pass McGee Lake – a potential water source – we confirm that the lake is low and dirty, so we’re happy we have extra water. We encounter a solo hiker doing the same loop but counter clockwise and he confirms there’s not much water around. We then encounter two rangers on horseback that have ridden up from May Lake and Tuolumne Meadows on patrol. In a “small world” story, we find out that the ranger is from Southern California and works with Montrose SAR! We talk about the Angeles NF a bit, confirm the lack of water, and discuss a water side trip to Polly Dome Lakes. The ranger tells us how to find the trail and we say goodbye and carry on.

We find the turnoff to Polly Dome Lakes and I convince my wife that the extra 1.8 miles will be worth it to have a full water source. It’s a small up and down trail but it leads us to a beautiful and stunning setting on the lake with tons of camping areas. My wife is bushed from the lack of good sleep the night before, so I lay out a towel and get her comfortable for an afternoon nap. While she naps, I dump out all the water and do a complete fresh re-fill of all our water containers. Now we are good to go for the night and next morning. The combination of the water source, naptime and the beauty of this pristine lake make the 1.8 mile side trip totally worth it! After my wife wakes up – fully refreshed – the clouds start to roll in and it looks like a thunderstorm is on its way. So, we saddle up fast and head back to the main trail and south to the May Lake / Ten Lakes trail junction hoping to beat the storm.

Polly Dome Lakes

We arrive at the trail junction and scope out a flat piece of ground to pitch camp. As it starts to sprinkle, we quickly get the tent up and get everything secured in the vestibule. No sooner are we done than the thunder, lightning and rain hit full force. We jump in the tent and hunker down, riding out 30 minutes of storm. When it passes, we climb back out – inspect everything – and cook dinner. We are good to go for the night with enough water to get us to the next viable source on the way up to Ten Lakes the next day.

Day Four – May Lake / Ten Lakes Trail Junction to Ten Lakes

The climb to Ten Lakes starts off with about a mile of flat trail crossing a beautiful meadow.

Day 4 sunrise

Then the climbing and switchbacks begin as the trail heads north and northeast up and around the 10,800 foot Tuolumne Peak. It’s beautiful alpine hiking with fantastic views to the north back towards where we came. We encountered three hikers on this part of the trail. 

After 3 or 4 miles, on the Northwest corner of the base of Tuolumne Peak, the trail dives back down into the South Fork drainage. On the way down the steep switchbacks, we find a beautiful, crystal-clear spring bubbling up from the ground – and we take the opportunity to have a rest and filter some of the cleanest water we’ve had all week…absolutely delicious. At the bottom of the switchbacks, the trail then turns directly North and heads about a mile and half up the South Fork drainage through some beautiful forested areas and a lovely meadow. There is a bit of water in the South Fork, but it’s pretty dry. Luckily we are filled up with that amazing spring water so we don’t need to stop.

At the top of the South Fork drainage, the trail then turns immediately West and UP UP UP about 800 vertical feet of crazy switchbacks to make the climb towards Ten Lakes. We stop at the bottom and eat a light lunch before making the climb, as the sun is now up and in full force and this will be a HOT ascent. We encounter one solo hiker coming down from Ten Lakes, and he asks us about water sources. We turn him on to the location of the magical spring, and he thanks us and heads off.

We begin our ascent of the switchbacks – taking it one section at a time and hydrating regularly as the sun is now beating down and temps are HIGH. We complete the climb quickly and efficiently and then slowing ascend the final flatter section to the first of the Ten Lakes. Of the Ten Lakes, the two largest ones are actually right on the Ten Lakes trail (the others require some off-trail nav via use trails). We stop at the first one (“East” lake) at 9,400 feet elevation and have a rest and filter some water. There are some great campsites there are zero people, but we decide to keep going to the second lake (“West” lake) which will position us better for the climb over Ten Lakes Pass the next morning. We hike the last mile and change, descending down to the “West” lake at 8,950 feet. The view on the descent is stunning and we stop a take a few pictures. We arrive at the “West” lake and pitch camp on a rock outcropping overlooking the lake. Because Ten Lakes – accessible directly from the Yosemite Creek / Ten Lakes trail head on highway 120 – is only about a 6-mile hike in, there are quite a few people camping there by the end of the evening. We share the lakefront with some other campers and swimmers during dinner, but then everyone settles in for a quiet night. The storm rolls in but we don’t get hit as hard as the night before. This will be our last night in the Yosemite Wilderness.

Day 5 – Ten Lakes to White Wolf

We wake up early and pack up our gear for the last time. The morning is cool, which is good because we now have to climb 800 feet of switchbacks in about a mile to get out of the Ten Lakes area and up-and-over Ten Lakes Pass. We begin the due West climb up the switchbacks – and it doesn’t take long for the East-rising sun to start to heat us up. We encounter some pikas and a huge Marmot on the switchback ascent, as Ten Lakes Pass is reasonably high up at 9,670 feet in elevation.

We finish the ascent and arrive at Ten Lakes Pass – a beautiful alpine meadow – and are greeted by some playful deer. Now – we begin our 8 mile descent South and West to are starting point at White Wolf campground. After the initial set of steep downward switchbacks, the trail crosses the lovely Half Moon Meadow. We encounter a pair of backpackers camped out there, but otherwise it is quiet and still. It’s a beautiful meadow at the base of the Ten Lakes Pass – and we make a note to come back and visit it again.

From there, it’s another 2 miles or so until the trail junction of the Ten Lakes Trail and the East/West White Wolf Trail. We stop at the junction for a snack – there’s no water in Yosemite Creek at the junction, but we have plenty so we are ok to keep going. The trail heads directly West towards White Wolf, covering about 3 ½ miles of beautiful dense forest with some amazingly large trees. It also winds its way through a burn area left over from the Lukens fire many years earlier. But the forest is coming back – which is a good sign. From the Lukens Lake trail junction, it’s now just a bit under 2 miles to complete our journey.

We arrive back at the White Wolf Campground to the eerie sight of zero people. The campground closed just after Labor Day (the day after we were there), so it was locked up tight and no one was around. We saw two people sitting at a picnic table, and they look surprised to see us coming out of the forest, but other than that – no one. We were the only car left in the overflow parking, which was weird. We packed everything back into the car and followed the dirt loop back to the access road.

When we got to the access road / Highway 120 junction the GATE WAS CLOSED! Uh oh – how were we going to out??? I’ve got no phone signal either!! My first thought was to turn around and go back to those two people at the picnic table and say “how the heck did you guys get in here???” But first, I decided to get out of the car and check the gate. Sure enough, it was closed BUT THE LOCK wasn’t latched. Phew!!! I unwrapped the lock and chain and opened the gate, moved my car out, and then re-wrapped everything up. It took a few minutes for my heart to slow down LOL.

Alabama Hills Cafe

And just like that, our 5-day adventure on the Yosemite Wilderness Grand Canyon of Tuolumne Loop was complete. Now, time to drive to Bishop for Mexican Food and Beers! Then, the next morning, it would be a stop at the Alabama Hills Café in Lone Pine for breakfast, and then home!

Yosemite Grand Canyon of Tuolumne Tips and Notes

• Wilderness Permits are required to stay overnite in the Yosemite Backcountry. All trailheads are based on a quota system, and permits can be applied for 168 prior to departure. For all information on Yosemite Wilderness Permits, trail quotas and applications, go to https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wildpermits.htm.
• With the exception of the White Wolf Campground backpackers camp, all of the campsites we used on the trail were backcountry sites with NO bear boxes for storage. Therefore, APPROVED bear canisters are required for this loop to store all food and items with a scent. You will be required to go through a quick education process on this when you pick up your permit at the Tuolumne Meadows permit station.  
• We tracked the trip via GaiaGPS for iPhone. Our GPX track can be downloaded above.
• Due to our late season start date, water was scarce in some spots. Lakes and major streams should be used – seasonal water on maps was almost entirely dry. Earlier in the season would yield water from all seasonal sources and would require many wet trail crossings.
• Normally in Yosemite, campfires are permitted above 6,000 fee and below 9,600 fee in elevation in improved rock fire rings. This year, NO FIRES were permitted in the park backcountry.
• We had a short burst of heavy rain on Day 3 and light rain on Day 4, so make sure you have proper rain gear, pack covers and shelter on this loop.

Conclusions

If you are as passionate about Yosemite National Park as we are (after all, we were married at Glacier Point), then a trip to the Northern half of the park and the Yosemite Wilderness should be on your bucket list. The Grand Canyon of Tuolumne and it’s majestic canyon and stunning waterfalls are a box that should be checked off.

Another benefit of this route is the small numbers of people in late season – it is a true backcountry experience after Labor Day.

This loop is perfect for beginner backpackers and experienced backpackers alike.

There’s no better way to see the Northern section of Yosemite National Park than the Grand Canyon of Tuolumne Loop.

Originally hiked September 3-8, 2022 by Greg Glass and Barbara Hale. All photos by the same.

Yosemite National Park features some of the most beautiful backcountry in all of the Sierra Nevada.  Surprisingly, however, most people stick to a few main trails – namely the John Muir Trail between Yosemite Valley – Tuolumne Meadows – Donahue Pass and the High Sierra Camp trails leading to Merced Lake – Vogelsang – Sunrise.  Often times the northern portion of the park above Highway 120 and the southern portion of the park towards the Sierra National Forest and Ansel Adams Wilderness are overlooked by backpackers.

For this trip, we asked ourselves a few questions:

1. What is the highest trail point in Yosemite?  That would be a fun place to check out.
2. How can we construct a ‘loop’ hike to that high point starting and ending in Yosemite Valley

ANSWER: the highest Class 1 trail point in Yosemite National Park is Red Peak Pass – a steep and narrow mountain pass that crosses over the Clark Range in the southeastern portion of the park.  The Clark Range – and the Cathedral Range to its north – are the two main mini-mountain ranges in eastern Yosemite that come off the main Sierra Nevada range to their east.  The Cathedral Range is a bit more famous, as it features Vogelsang High Sierra Camp and eventually Donahue Pass to the east.

It is fairly straightforward to construct a Red Peak Pass Loop from Yosemite Valley – either clockwise or counter-clockwise.  Most people will either start from the valley at Happy Isles (IF you can get a permit!) and either head south down Illiloutte Creek or head east towards Lake Merced.  For ease of permit acquisition, we decided to start up high above the valley floor at Glacier Point and head south and counter-clockwise.

We decided to not follow Illiloutte Creek across to Merced Pass Lakes, but instead go directly south and explore Buena Vista Lake, Royal Arch Lake and Buck Camp before heading back north and east towards Red Peak Pass.  This extended version of the Red Peak Pass Loop would give us a great 6 day / 57.6 map miles backcountry adventure.

Why enter at Glacier Point instead of Happy Isles / Yosemite Valley?  Several reasons:

• Glacier Point has 15 permits per day as a quota, whereas Happy Isles > Illiloutte only has 3 permits per day that are desirable to John Muir Trail hikers.  Much easier to get the permits and the dates we wanted via Glacier Point.
• By starting at Glacier Point, we start up at 7,700 feet and head down to start – nothing wrong with that on day one.
• We can park our car in the Valley the day before we start, pick up our permit, stay at the Backpackers Camp in the valley, and take the Glacier Point tour bus to the trailhead the next morning – then when we end in the valley, we are at our car.

Trail Details

Distance: 57.6 miles
Time: Six days
Difficulty: Moderately Strenuous
Elevation gain: 8,859 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Mid-July to September

Planning the Trip

We booked our backcountry permit online through the Yosemite backcountry permit system exactly 168 days prior to our entry date.  Once we had our permit, we then booked our Glacier Point bus tour tickets online as well.  The map we used to plan our route was the Tom Harrison Yosemite High Country Map.  This one map shows the entire route.  We chose the following schedule for our trip – hoping that this would keep our average miles around 10 to 11 miles per day for the first five days and also land us at a good water source each night:

• Travel Day One: Drive to Oakhurst, CA and spend the night at a motel.  Since our departure was on Labor Day Weekend, we wanted to be able to get into the park the next morning as early as possible to insure getting a parking space at the Happy Isles trailhead parking lot.
• Travel Day Two: Drive from Oakhurst into Yosemite Valley early a.m. and get a parking place in the Happy Isles trailhead parking lot.  Once secured, stow our gear and pitch camp at backpacker’s camp.  Then go the Wilderness Office in Yosemite Village and pick up our backcountry permit and parking pass.  Then go to Yosemite Lodge and pick up our bus tickets for the ride to Glacier Point. Do a little sightseeing in the Valley, then crash in our tent at backpacker’s camp that night.
• Day One – 10.7 miles: Take the free Yosemite Shuttle from Backpacker’s Camp to Yosemite Lodge and pick up the tour bus to Glacier Point.  Hike south from Glacier Point to the point where Buena Vista Creek crosses the Buena Vista Trail near Hart Lakes.
• Day Two – 10.7 miles: Hike south to Buena Vista Lake and over Buena Vista Pass.  Continue South past Royal Arch Lake and then east and up to Buck Camp. Then continue Northeast and up to the Moraine Meadows Trail Junction.
• Day Three – 10 miles: Hike north over Merced Pass then northeast to Ottoway Lakes.  Ascend Red Peak Pass, then descend and head east into the Clark Range basin to an unnamed trail lake and camp.
• Day Four – 10.5 miles: Hike east and down to the Triple Peak Fork Trail and then north to Washburn Lake.
• Day Five – 11.5 miles: Hike north to Lake Merced and then west to Little Yosemite Valley.
• Day Six – 4.2 miles: Hike west and down to Yosemite Valley.  Shower at Curry Village then drive home.

Total (Tom Harrison Map) Miles: 57.6 Miles
(NOTE: Actual GPS hiking mileage as recorded by the Gaia GPS for iPhone app was 60.72 miles)

Day One – Glacier Point to Buena Vista Trail / Buena Vista Creek Crossing

Day One Stats

Distance: 10.7 miles
Time: 6 hours
Elevation gain: 3,196 ft

Barb at the Glacier Point Trailhead

Most Red Peak Pass Loop-ers will stay on the Illilouette Creek trail and head east directly towards Lower and Upper Merced Pass Lakes.  We chose the long route to head south and visit Buena Vista Lake, Royal Arch Lake and Buck Camp.  So here, we take the junction and join the Buena Vista Trail and head south.

From here on out, we are alone on the trail. The Buena Vista Trail is a low altitude, dusty trail that follows a partially wooded, partially exposed path south.  To the east there are great views of Mt. Starr King – and still farther east we can see views of Red Peak and the Clark Range…our eventual target.  As this was late in the summer, seasonal creeks are mostly dry and we are careful to monitor our water supply and fill when we can.

As we get closer to the Buena Vista Creek trail crossing, the trail heads up and into the forest on a ridge known as Horse Ridge.  We get back up over 8,000 feet after a fairly steep switchback climb up onto the ridge and are welcomed by the shade of the forest again.  Then, as our GPS signals we are close, we spot our friends Mark and Mia who had headed out the day before and had already found the creek crossing and pitched camp.  They found a nice flat campsite near the creek crossing and it already had a built-out rock fire pit.

Unfortunately, Buena Vista Creek wasn’t flowing anymore, but Mark had found a small trickle and pool with clean water and we were good to go for the night.  For those that take the shorter version of the loop via the Illiloutte Creek trail, water is not a problem.  For this longer, Southern route towards Buena Vista Lake, be aware that late season water is limited unless you do a full 13+ miles to Buena Vista Lake on day one.  But with our clean pool at Buena Vista Creek, we were just fine!  Time for a campfire, dinner and night one on the trail.

NOTE on CAMPFIRES: Yosemite Campfire rules are a bit different than other parts of the Sierra.  Fires are ONLY allowed in improved campsite areas with rock fire rings and only above 6,000 feet and below 9,600 feet.  You should have a California Fire Permit with you along with your wilderness permit at all times.  Get the permit at http://www.preventwildfireca.org/Campfire-Permit/.  I also carry a lightweight collapsible bucket.  Not only does it work for washing clothes and feet, but you simply fill it up and keep that 5L of water next to the campfire so that when it’s time to put it out, you have a way to completely extinguish it quickly and safely.

Day Two – Buena Vista Trail / Buena Vista Creek Trail Junction to Moraine Meadows Trail Junction

Day Two Stats

Distance: 10.7 miles
Time: 8 hours
Elevation gain: 1,919 ft

We continue south and arrive at Buena Vista Lake.

Buena Vista Lake is a beautiful alpine lake that sits at about 9,100 feet, surrounded by gorgeous rock cliffs and overlooked by Buena Vista Peak.

The trail winds its way along the north side of the Lake, and then heads up a series of switchbacks to Buena Vista Pass at a little over 9,300 feet which crosses a rock range called the Buena Vista Crest.

The trail then heads directly south again towards the southernmost east-west trail in Yosemite National Park that runs from Wawona and Chilnualna Falls to Buck Camp.  Before arriving at that trail junction, the trail winds through some gorgeous rock formations to arrive at Royal Arch Lake at about 8,700 feet.

Royal Arch Lake gets its name from the amazing arch-shaped granite wall that borders the east side of the lake.  It’s simply breathtaking!  We stop at the lake, filter some fresh water, have a snack, take a few photos, then then we’re off again.

We arrive at the trail junction at 8,490 feet and then turn directly east towards Buck Camp.  The climb to Buck Camp is a steep, forested trail that grabs a quick 400+ vertical feet and definitely gets your heart pumping.  Our friend Mark saw a large bear run by and it was soon followed by a few hikers coming the other way.  After the quick hard climb, the trail drops back down the other side of the ridge through some gorgeous flowery meadows and water lilies to arrive at Buck Camp.

Buck Camp is the southernmost ranger station in Yosemite National Park and sits less than 3 miles from the southern border with the Sierra National Forest.  It is a very old log cabin-style building and has an old outhouse and a small corral/tie-up for horses and mules.  When we arrived, four women from the Buena Vista Lake trail camp were resting and filtering water and we chatted with them for a bit.  They were nice enough to show us the location of the Buck Creek water source and we filtered/filled up as well.

The trail now heads directly northeast towards Moraine Mountain and the Moraine Meadows trail.  After 4 miles and a vertical gain of about 500 feet, we finally arrived (tired) at the Moraine Meadows trail junction in the southeastern corner of Yosemite National Park.

We were concerned about water, but all of my maps showed that there was a permanent tarn just East of the trail junction on the Moraine Meadows trail.  Everyone dropped their packs at the trail junction and I volunteered to go look for the tarn.  I took my water bag with me in hopes of success.  Thank you Tom Harrison!…your map was correct.  The tarn was there and FULL and we had water!  Everyone took turns going back and forth to the tarn and we filled up for the night and next morning.  While others were doing water and camp chores, I took it upon myself to build a rock fire pit so we could have a campfire.  That’s a workout in itself! We were now set with water, a good camp site, a campfire, and a perfect 8,800 foot position to attack 11,060 foot Red Peak Pass the next day!

NOTE: the Moraine Meadows trail heads directly east towards the eastern border of Yosemite National Park and the Ansel Adams Wilderness.  If you head east on this trail about 4 ½ miles, you end up crossing over the southern portion of the Clark Range at the famous Fernandez Pass.  This is part of the old Theodore Solomons Trail route that you can also read about here on the site.

Day Three – Moraine Meadows Trail Junction to Red Peak Pass and the Clark Range Basin East of Red Peak Pass

Day Three Stats

Distance: 10 miles
Time: 8 hours
Elevation gain: 3,259 ft

After breakfast and coffee, we headed north, climbing 500+ vertical feet over 1.8 miles to Merced Pass at 9,300 feet.  Merced Pass is at the eastern end of the Buena Vista Crest that we had crossed the day before.

From the pass, the trail winds downward to the trail junction of the Illiloutte Creek trail.  We are now back at the point where the traditional Red Peak Pass Loop would arrive from Glacier Point.  The trail junction sits right between two lakes – Lower Merced Pass Lake and Upper Merced Pass Lake.  We bid goodbye to our friends Mark and Mia who decide to head back to the Valley via Illiloutte Creek, and we are now on our own to tackle Red Peak Pass!

The trail junction sits at 8,900 feet, so we have 1,200 feet of northeast climbing to do to get over the Pass.  Ready, set, GO!

The first 2 miles of climbing is steep, forested, dirt trail combined with some rock steps and switchbacks.  Once you get above the tree line, the trail turns to all granite and granite steps.  Like most of the trails in Yosemite National Park, the granite step trails are meticulously constructed and demonstrate the best of 1920s and 1930s trail building techniques.

The next landmark is Ottoway Creek, which is fed from the Ottoway Lakes above and then flows down and feeds into Illiloutte Creek below.  Some beautiful water features and small waterfalls decorate the creek on both sides.  I find a tricky rock crossing, but my wife chooses to put on her sandals and do it as a wet crossing for safety.  Always better to wade through then risk a fall.  After drying off her feet, we continue up to Lower Ottoway Lake.

Lower Ottoway Lake is a gorgeous alpine lake at the base of the Clark Range at 9,600 feet.  The trail comes right up next to the lake on the West edge, and we find a beautiful flat granite outcropping and take off our packs for an early lunch and water refill.  The fish are swimming and jumping in the lake, and as with the entire trail, we are the only ones there.

We could have stayed there for hours and done some swimming too – but we had a date with a PASS! And so we saddled up and headed UP!  1,500 vertical feet to go in about 2 miles.

The trail switchbacks upwards through the granite, with more incredible granite step trail building.  We were amazed at how much greenery and flowers and water were still on the trail the first week of September! It looked like the Alps in some places, and another great benefit of a big snow year.

As you look back, you get great views of Lower Ottoway Lake.  We saw our other friends from Germany in the distance and gave them a yell and a wave as they arrived where he had just been.  As we continue to climb, Upper Ottoway Lake comes into view to the South, again surrounded by the bare peaks of the Clark Range and patches of leftover winter snow.

The final push to Red Peak Pass is a straight up switchback trail that goes directly in between two rock spires.  It’s some of the coolest trail design and construction we’d seen yet.  We couldn’t believe THAT was where they decided to put the trail!  We arrive at the top – Red Peak Pass – and our feature goal of the trip is complete.  The views to both the south and the north are breathtaking and we quickly grab some photos and videos.

We are surrounded by 11,000+ foot peaks including Gray Peak and Red Peak to the northwest and Ottoway Peak, Merced Peak and Triple Divide Peak to the southeast.  The north side of the pass is all above-the-tree line granite basin, making for a gorgeous hike down through the rocks.  BUT, in all our glee to reach the top, we didn’t notice the thunder clouds rolling in…until JUST NOW!

As we begin our decent on the north side of Red Peak Pass, the raindrops start to fall.  We quickly get our rain jackets and pack covers on.  We are hopeful that it doesn’t get too bad – and we’re also thankful that almost all the snow and ice has melted off the north side switchbacks and we don’t have to put on micro spikes.  Unfortunately, the clouds let go with FULL force including thunder and lightning, and our adventure at 11,000 feet of exposed rock just got interesting!

First came the stinging hail.  Then, as we hustled lower, the heavy rain.  The trail turned into a river in places, and we hiked as quickly and carefully as we could.  When the thunder and lightning was directly overhead, we tried to take some shelter under some big rocks, but it wasn’t very effective.  In between bursts we kept going as quickly as we could. After more than a mile from the pass, we finally reached some trees and we were no longer the tallest thing on the rocks.  We kept going until we reached the largest unnamed tarn on the map at 9,900 feet that we had targeted during map planning.  By this time, we were pretty wet.

The rain lightened up long enough for us to get our tent set up and get everything stowed.  Then the thunder clouds let go again and we hunkered down in the tent for several hours.  The tent held up, although we had water underneath which was a bit unnerving.   At 7 p.m., five hours AFTER it had started, it finally blew through and we could get out and evaluate.  Kevin and our German friends had arrived during the storm – thought about going even lower on the trail – and then decided to stay and pitch camp near us.

We kept some stuff dry, while other stuff was wet.  Sleeping gear was all dry which was great. We’d be ok tomorrow – but with wet shoes which is never fun.  We ate some food, filtered some water, and went to sleep as things began to dry out.  It was our BIG day in so many ways.  Never a dull moment in the Sierra Nevada – and its baby brother the Clark Range gave us everything it had.

NOTE: once the hail and rain started coming down, I tried to take some photos and videos but my hands and my iPhone cover were so cold and wet that I couldn’t get it to activate my password and turn on.  So unfortunately I don’t have any good storm photos or videos coming down the North side of Red Peak Pass.  Better to stow my phone and keep it dry and functional anyway.  You’ll have to take my word for it.

Day Four – Clark Range Basin to Washburn Lake

Day Four Stats

Distance: 10.5 miles
Time: 7.5 hours
Elevation gain: 2,976 ft

The trail out of the Clark Range Basin zig zags east as it makes its way into the river basin that will eventually become the Merced River.  The three miles of eastern trail was beautiful – up and down, gorgeous views of the Clark Range to the south, and some pretty water features coming down from remote Edna Lake to the south.  Up and down we zig zagged, including one wet creek crossing that gave our feet a nice morning wake-up call.  Then, as the trail drops steeply down towards the river basin, we hit the wildlife lottery and spotted a big California black bear.  He was a healthy big boy and had no tracking device or ear tags.  He was a true wild Yosemite bear.  It absolutely MADE our DAY to see him.  He was magnificent.

We soon arrived at the bottom of the trail and the trail junction that would turn us north and up the river.  This main tributary of the Merced River is called Triple Peak Fork, getting its name from Triple Divide Peak to the south.  Its source is mainly the waters of Turner Lake to the south.  It’s a beautiful river at the trail junction – wide and clear.  If you cross the river, the trail heads two miles east and over Isberg Pass and into the Ansel Adams Wilderness.  Yes – we are still in the corner of the park.

We begin the six-mile, flat and downhill hike north along Triple Peak Fork.  Along the way, we encounter a solo male hiker who is headed to Isberg Pass.  It’s the first stranger we’ve seen since Buck Camp, more than 20 miles earlier.  Yes – we are truly in the backcountry.  About three miles into our northern hike, the trail drops down a series of massive granite switchbacks and Triple Peak Fork becomes an incredible series of waterfalls.

We are dropping down into the next major basin where Triple Peak Fork and Merced Peak Fork meet and officially become the Merced River.  It’s an incredibly gorgeous area and the trail building is spectacular.  We cross a bridge over the Merced Peak Fork and then stop at a beautiful granite beach to snack and filter water.  It was warm and sunny and it would have been a perfect place for swimming and sunbathing.

We saddle up again and finish the last two or three miles to Washburn Lake.  Washburn Lake is about three miles before Merced Lake, but unlike its more famous brother, Washburn Lake isn’t filled with a massive High Sierra Camp and a huge backpackers camp.  It’s still pristine backcountry and an absolutely gorgeous and unspoiled place to camp.

We grab a sweet spot along the East side of the lake with a fire pit already in place and pitch camp.  We spread out all of our wet stuff to dry on hot sunny rocks and take a long foot soak in the lake.  The fish are jumping and we are happy!

The Germans come by a few hours later one by one, but they continue on to Merced Lake, as they have a few extra days in their schedule to grab Sunrise High Sierra Camp, Clouds Rest and Half Dome.  We wish them safe travels and take a photo by the lake with our good friend Kevin Muschter before he heads out.  We start our campfire, fold up all of our now dry clothes, celebrate our now dry shoes, and enjoy a quiet dinner and evening alone at Washburn Lake by the fire.  We are blessed.

Day Five – Washburn Lake to Little Yosemite Valley

Day Five Stats

Distance: 11.5 miles
Time: 7 hours
Elevation gain: -1,532 ft

The hike along this section of the Merced River is quiet and beautiful.  We soon arrive at the Merced Lake Ranger Station and Trail Junction which are about a mile prior to Merced Lake proper.  It’s a beautiful ranger station with a big horse/mule corral, but it appears to be locked up for the season.  The trail junction heads northeast for those hikers on the Yosemite High Sierra Camp loop to Vogelsang.  We continue west to Merced Lake.

First you arrive at Merced Lake High Sierra Camp.  There are a few large wooden buildings and then dozens of concrete platforms where the High Sierra Camp tents go.  Everything is taken down for the season so we stroll through it without seeing a soul. Beyond the High Sierra Camp is the backpackers camp – a huge area with room for dozens of people / tents.  We see about a half dozen folks packing up their stuff from the night before – we are back in “hiker civilization” now.

The trail heads directly west along the north side of Merced Lake.  It’s another pretty lake – but we actually think Washburn Lake is prettier.  The fish are jumping and it’s a pretty morning.  At the western end of the lake, the Merced River exits and heads down into the granite canyon that we will follow downward for the next eight or so miles to Little Yosemite Valley.

The beautiful Merced River canyon winds its way through three distinct valleys – Echo Valley, Lost Valley and finally Little Yosemite Valley.  Echo Valley is where the trail junction is that heads north towards Sunrise High Sierra Camp.  Once you head west beyond the trail junction, the trail winds its way through gorgeous granite features, across a huge bridge, and then up up up and around the mountain and down to a beautiful waterfall called the Bunnell Cascade and the entrance to Lost Valley.

We stop at the cascade to take some photos and filter some water.  It’s windy so we don’t stay too long.  Then we enter Lost Valley which is the start of the fire zone left over from the 2014 Meadow Fire.  From here until Little Yosemite Valley, we walk through the burned remnants of a destroyed forest.  It’s very sad and a bit spooky, but hopefully over the next 10 or 20 years things can heal.  Ground cover is healthy, but the forest has yet to renew itself.  As we exit Lost Valley and enter Little Yosemite Valley from the East, Half Dome comes into view and we know we are close.

We finally arrive at Little Yosemite Valley campground – one of the biggest backcountry campgrounds in the Sierra – and stake out a site next to the community fire pit.  I’ll be the fire builder tonight.  After we pitch camp, we go down to the Merced River to filter water and wash/soak our feet.  It’s a beautiful afternoon and there’s a ton of people there.  We are no longer alone.  We do some firewood gathering and take a walk to the solar powered latrine.

Our night is tweaked a bit by a visit from a Search and Rescue staffer who asks us if we had been on Half Dome today.  We had heard a helicopter earlier…and the picture became clear.  There had been a fall on the cables earlier that day and a young woman had died.  He was simply investigating the accident at the campground.  A sad thing for sure.

We lit the fire and had a visit from a Utah family with four kids and an older couple on an overnite.  We put the fire out before the 10 p.m. campground requirement and headed off to bed.  We saw some clouds rolling in so we put up the rain fly on the tent, staked it out and stowed the backpacks in the vestibule before crashing out.  Good thing, as it started to rain at 11 p.m. for about an hour.  Then it was quiet the rest of the night. It would be our last night in the Yosemite backcountry.

Day Six – Little Yosemite Valley to Happy Isles Trailhead

Day Six Stats

Distance: 4.2 miles
Time: 2.5 hours
Elevation gain: -3,130 ft

As most of you reading this have probably hiked the JMT or the Mist Trail from Yosemite Valley to at least the top of Nevada Falls, I won’t spend too much time describing the route here.  Suffice it to say we had dozens and dozens of Half Dome day hikers passing us on their way up as we were heading down.  Another little fun experience was the fact that there was NO ONE at the top of Nevada Falls when we got there (as everyone was coming up the Mist Trail and heading straight up to Half Dome).  That was the FIRST time we had ever been at the top of Nevada Falls and on the bridge with NO ONE in sight.  Strange but fun for our last morning in Yosemite.

We took our time and walked down the JMT.  We passed a few backpackers coming up and a ranger on horseback with a mule team going to service the bathrooms at Nevada Falls and Little Yosemite Valley.  Other than that, not too many people until the bridge at the base of Vernal Falls.  From there, it was “back to civilization” until we got to the trailhead and the trailhead parking lot where our car was waiting.

And just like that our six-day adventure was over.  Next stop, Curry Village for a $5 shower and then heading home.

Red Peak Pass Loop Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Red Peak Pass Tips and Notes

• Wilderness permits are required to stay overnight in the Yosemite backcountry.  All trailheads are based on a quota system, and permits can be applied for 168 days prior to departure.  For all information on Yosemite wilderness permits, trail quotas and applications, go to https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wildpermits.htm.
• With the exception of Little Yosemite Valley, all of the campsites we used on the trail were backcountry sites with NO bear boxes for storage.  Therefore APPROVED bear canisters are required for this loop to store all food and items with a scent.  As you read above, there ARE bears in the park.
• We tracked the trip via Gaia GPS for iPhone.  Our GPX track can be downloaded above.
• Due to our late season start date, water was scarce in some spots and plentiful in others.  Lakes and major streams should be used in late season.  Earlier in the season will yield water from all seasonal creeks.
• Although we did not fish, there were great places along this loop for Golden Trout and other species, including Buena Vista Lake, Royal Arch Lake, Washburn Lake, Merced Lake and the Merced River – so plan accordingly with proper gear and a fishing license if you choose to fish.
• Campfires are permitted above 6,000 feet and below 9,600 feet in elevation in improved rock fire rings only.  We had campfires every day except our rainy night in the Clark Range Basin.
• We had heavy rain on Day 3 and light rain on Day 5, so make sure you have proper rain gear, pack covers and shelters on this loop.
• Stream crossings were easy during this time of year and micro spikes were not needed over Red Peak Pass.  Earlier in the season would have required traction on the pass and would have included more wet crossings.

Conclusions

If you are as passionate about Yosemite National Park as we are (after all, we were married at Glacier Point), then a trip to the southern half of the park should be on your bucket list.  Being able to cross the Clark Range at Red Peak Pass – the highest Class 1 trail point in the park – is a box that should be checked off.

Another benefit of this route is the complete lack of people – it is a true backcountry experience.

This loop is perfect for beginner backpackers and experienced backpackers alike.

Given the shorter option of the Illiloutte Creek trail and the longer options of extending the northern portion to include Sunrise, Clouds Rest and Half Dome, the Red Peak Pass Loop can be configured for anywhere from 4 to 8 days and from 40 to 70+ miles depending on how you want to do it.  The ability to customize the trail gives you so many options depending on your schedule, the weather and your experience level.

There’s no better way to see the southern half of Yosemite National Park than the Red Peak Pass Loop.

Yosemite National Park Weather Forecast

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Originally hiked on September 1-6, 2019 by Greg Glass, Barbara Hale and friends. All photos by the same.

The Theodore Solomons Trail is an epic alternative to the immensely popular John Muir Trail. It’s roughly 270 miles in length, and runs largely parallel to–and west of–the JMT. The TST was conceived back in 1974 to help alleviate the crowding on the JMT (yes, even back then). Unlike the JMT, the TST is not an official trail, but a route stitched together from existing trails. Some of those trails are no longer maintained, and many of them are rarely travelled. My goal is to hike the entire trail in sections and assess the viability of the route as an alternate to the JMT.

Trail Details

Distance: 4.5 miles
Time: 2 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain (loss): 652 ft (1,448 ft)
Dogs: No
When to go: June-October

This hike was a short, sweet start to the first section of the Theodore Solomons Trail. We had swapped cars with friends who were starting at Clover Meadows and hiking north. Our permit was for a Saturday start, but we arrived at the Wawona Ranger Station around 3:30 PM Friday and were lucky enough to get a walk-in permit for Friday. Permit in hand, we drove to Glacier Point, took the requisite photos of Half Dome, Nevada and Vernal Falls, and at exactly 5:06pm we started hiking down the Panorama Trail.

The trail here is difficult to detect, because it actually starts over the granite directly next to this sign.

The Panorama Trail is a beautiful route that leads down to the top of Nevada Falls. We followed it down to the junction towards Illilouette Falls, and then stayed right to follow Illilouette Creek upstream.

Look closely and you can see a glimpse of Illilouette Falls. Our destination was in the distance.

Our trail descended nearly 1,000 feet over the first 2.5 miles, stopping only when we reached the granite channel which Illilouette rushes through. Here we followed the gentle ascent along the creek, with beautiful views and the sounds of cascade.

At 3.8 miles we crossed a tributary feeding Illilouette from the north, and promptly began our first decent climb. We ascended over section of forest scarred by a past wildfire, with new growth sprouting everywhere among the charred and branch-less trunks standing watch over the mountainside.

Up until this point, we had only passed a few day hikers heading up toward Glacier Point. We didn’t encounter any other backpackers on the trail. Finally, at 4.2 miles, we reached a junction with a trail from Mono Meadows in the north, and saw several small groups of backpackers camped near the creek. This was the general area where we planned to camp on this short day — having started late.

We took our boots off to wade across Illilouette Creek — the first of many such “boots off” crossings — and hunted for a suitable campsite. Up the bluff on the south side of Illilouette was another junction, and not far upstream an established campsite that we would call home for the night.

Will crossing the Illilouette

A few notes — the area of these two junctions (one on either side of the creek) is the first place where you can camp when backpacking. It’s also the last place on this trip that we saw other backpackers camped. The remainder of the 25.5 miles did not see a single occupied camp, and we saw a few people. It felt “busy” here at our first night’s camp (even though our campsite was far away from the others), but the remainder of the route felt very “wild” and highly travelled.

Also, the National Park trail signs claimed it was 3.5 miles, but my GPS clocked it at 4.5 (even after cleaning up the noise on the route). As with most things in life, the truth probably lies somewhere between.

There was plenty of water in Illilouette Creek, though the ranger warned us not to rely on small tributaries. We didn’t see any problem there, either, but there had been thunderstorms for two days prior to our trip.

We built a campfire and unwound. Today’s mileage was a bonus. Miles in the bank, so to speak. We effectively had a 4.5 mile head start on tomorrow’s hike towards Fernandez Pass.

Glacier Point to Illilouette Creek Trail Map

Photo Gallery

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Additional Tips

• If you hike this as a shuttle, note it is a LONG drive from Clover Meadows to Glacier Point including many miles on a bumpy gravel road.  Allow sufficient time and fuel.
• When parking at the trailhead, do not leave anything with any scent in your car (including air fresheners, toothpaste, deodorant, etc.). This is bear country, and they have ways of “opening” your car that you might not appreciate.
• Trail conditions where great throughout this section, which was not surprising given the number of occupied camps seen that night near the creek.

More Resources

• Wilderness permits are available up to 168 days in advance on a first-come, first-serve basis. Glacier Point is a popular alternate starting point for the John Muir Trail and for folks doing short overnight trips to Half Dome, so plan ahead as much as possible.
• As of this writing, the entry fee to Yosemite National Park is $30 per car.
• Get driving directions to Glacier Point via Google Maps
• Download the GPX file or view my raw tracking data from GaiaGPS.

Yosemite National Park Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”95389″]

Two years ago I shared an amazing time-lapse video that showed Yosemite like you’ve never seen it before. Sheldon Neill and Colin Delehanty — the guys behind Project Yosemite — have done it again with their latest time-lapse masterpiece: Yosemite HD II.

This video was filmed over 10 months, hiking over 200 miles over the course of 45 total days. The patience it takes to capture these images is almost as astounding as the images themself. Sit back and enjoy. Then plan your trip.

[responsive_vimeo https://vimeo.com/87701971 notab]

For more information about Project Yosemite, visit projectyose.com

Keep close to Nature’s heart… and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods.” – John Muir

Want to reboot your life? Get outdoors. Climb a mountain. Backpack through the wilderness. It was good advice in Muir’s time over a hundred years ago, and it’s still good advice today.

About the Photo

I shot this photo of Tuolumne Meadow on our thru-hike of the John Muir Trail. Although the main road through Yosemite passes along the border of this beautiful meadow, it’s still easy to enjoy the open spaces and beauty of Nature.

About Muir Monday

John Muir had a way with words. I’ve taken those words and put them over photos I’ve taken. I’m sharing those photos each Monday — Muir Monday — and kindly ask that if you like this image, that you share it! Tweet it, post it on Facebook, Pin it… whatever social network you use, feel free to share. And thanks for helping me spread Muir’s words of wisdom.

One touch of nature makes the whole world kin.” – John Muir

There is something special about the experience we share in nature. This especially strikes me at places like this in Yosemite, as I realize that John Muir walked this trail. He saw a view that has remained largely unchanged. And he was moved in ways that I am moved more than one hundred years later.

When we reminisce with someone who has also been to Yosemite, the Grand Tetons, Zion or whatever location, we share a bond. Nature becomes the common denominator… the great equalizer.

About This Photo

I snapped this photograph on a day hike up to Vernal and Nevada Falls in Yosemite. I don’t know who the hikers in the photo are (if you know them, please share!), but I loved the way the sunlight was filtered by the trees, with mist from the falls in the background.

Get the Poster

About Muir Monday

I started sharing the wisdom of John Muir on back in June, posting new quotes on Instagram and Facebook with a photo I’ve taken that supports the message. Muir had a way with words, and the Muir Monday meme has proven popular. Beginning today, I’m trying out a new approach, sharing these inspirational words here on SoCal Hiker. Each Monday you’ll find a new quote to inspire you. Please spread the word, and share with your friends on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, Google+ or whatever networks you prefer.

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks. – John Muir

How many times have you gone outdoors, and I mean really getting away from the grind, and been dumbstruck with the beauty of nature? Even after hiking for decades, I still am blown away by the scenery, the serenity, and the peace that I find in the wilderness.

About This Photo

I captured this photograph of Lyell Creek on our 2010 John Muir Trail thru-hike. We were hiking from Tuolumne Meadow to Upper Lyell Creek for the night. The water was so clear, the sky so blue, and the scenery so stunning that we had to remind ourselves to keep moving everyone once in a while. As it was, we stopped frequently to gawk at the beauty and appreciate the moment.

About Muir Monday

John Muir had a way with words. I’ve taken those words and put them over photos I’ve taken. I’m sharing those photos each Monday — Muir Monday — and kindly ask that if you like this image, that you share it! Tweet it, post it on Facebook, Pin it… whatever social network you use, feel free to share. And thanks for helping me spread Muir’s words of wisdom.

Between every two pines is a doorway to a new world.” – John Muir

When I go out hiking, it’s an opportunity to see the world anew. It’s that child-like wonder and sense of exploration, where around every corner a new experience awaits. John Muir captured that sense of awe and wonder perfectly in this week’s Muir Monday quote.

About This Photo

I shot this photo on the John Muir Trail. This wasn’t on one of my JMT thru-hikes, but on a weekend trip to Yosemite over Memorial Day weekend — their busiest weekend of the year. I hiked up to Nevada Falls via the John Muir Trail, and came across this idyllic scene not far from the top of of the falls.

What “new worlds” have you discovered on your outdoor adventures? Let me know in the comments below!

A Note About Muir Monday

I started sharing the wisdom of John Muir on back in June, posting new quotes on Instagram and Facebook with a photo I’ve taken that supports the message. Muir had a way with words, and the Muir Monday meme has proven popular. Beginning today, I’m trying out a new approach, sharing these inspirational words here on SoCal Hiker. Each Monday you’ll find a new quote to inspire you. Please spread the word, and share with your friends on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, Google+ or whatever networks you prefer.

Day Five on the John Muir Trail…

Yesterday’s hike up Lyell Canyon was relatively easy. Today, we would hit several big milestones. First, we would hike over our first serious pass. At 11,056 ft, Donohue Pass was still covered with snow, and the altitude was as high as we had been on the JMT so far. We would also pass the 50 mile mark. And we would bid adieu to Yosemite… and hello to the Ansel Adams Wilderness in Inyo National Forest.

John Muir Trail Day 5

Distance: 9.7 miles
Cumulative Distance: 50.5 miles
Total Ascent: 2,200 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 14,770 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 12 and 11

One of the great things about hiking the John Muir Trail is that you are never very far from a water source. There are only a few stretches where we really needed to carry more than a liter of water with us. If we needed more water, we would stop and filter more.

We crossed the bridge over Lyell Fork and headed out.

Some of the creek crossings were a little sketchy. You either hiked through the icy cold water, or carefully stepped one foot in front of the other, placing them on the slippery stones and doing your best not to fall in. We were glad we had our trekking poles. We made a point to always have three points of contact with the ground. 

At some of the lakes, there are feint trails that run around the perimeter. It’s easy to mistake these for “the” trail, but we knew we would be climbing and stuck to our uphill trajectory.

There were numerous rivulets that crossed the trail, as well as a wide range of wildflowers.

Soon we were high above the canyon, and ready to ascend the final incline to the pass. We stopped to look back on the canyon we just climbed out of.

We passed one last lake and started up a granite trail that was fully exposed. Well above the tree line, we were nearing the crest of Donohue Pass.

We reached the pass and took an early (and well deserved lunch break). Our trail mascot Yoda was proud.

From Donohue Pass, we split in two groups. Joan and I hiked on to our camp for the night at Thousand Island Lake. Jeffrey and Hari decided to tackle rocky Donohue Peak. There is no trail up Donohue Peak; it’s mainly boulder scrambling (no technical climbing required). Even so, it’s a slog up and back down. They were rewarded for their efforts with some amazing views.

From Donohue Pass, there is a long downhill trudge. The sun was warm and our spirits were high. And we still had about six miles to go. The scenery changed as we once again descended below the tree line and crossed Rush Creek.

Watch the trail signs carefully. Several trails converge in this area, and you don’t want to take the wrong trail. From the creek, we climbed towards Island Pass. This pass is easy to miss, because it’s really a wide, broad saddle dotted with little ponds. The distinctive feature? Jaw-dropping views of the majestic Minarets, their jagged peaks rising dramatically above you to the west.

Finally, we came into view of Thousand Island Lake.

This is a huge lake. No, it doesn’t really have a thousand islands. Yes, it does have a LOT of islands–more than I care to count. And it sits directly below the spectacular Banner Peak.

The trail winds down to the outlet of Thousand Island Lake. There is no camping around the outlet, so we had to follow the northern shore for about half a mile before we found a suitable campsite. We settled in, refilled our water bottles and pitched our tent. Jeffrey and Hari strolled in just in time for dinner — tired but proud to have bagged Donohue Peak.

Repelling Mosquitos: A Natural Approach

The mosquitos were pretty bad at Thousand Island Lake. I chose not to use repellent. My approach? Long pants and long sleeves. When I needed, I wore a mosquito net over my head. Once at camp, I could get into my tent until sundown. Most of the mosquitos disappear when the sun sets and the temperature dips, so I could cook and eat my dinner in peace.

Thousand Island Lake is one of my favorite places. It’s beauty always inspires me. And it’s a popular destination that many people hike to out of Mammoth Lakes. For these reasons, it’s crowded and attracts bears. We were all using bear canisters and didn’t have any problems, but we did hear some noise from other campsites that had to chase off bears.

The map below shows the general route we took, and the gallery below includes additional photos in chronological order.

Upper Lyell Canyon to Donohue Pass, Island Pass and Thousand Island Lake

JMT Day 5 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we hike to Red’s Meadow.

Originally hiked on July 31, 2010.

Day Four on the John Muir Trail

I was looking forward to this day. The mileage was a little easier, and the first nine miles were up the almost imperceptible incline of Lyell Canyon. Getting in later than expected on Day Three meant hanging around until the Tuolumne Meadows Post Office opened so we could pick up our resupply package.

While we waited, we feasted on tasty breakfast burritos at the café. The post office doesn’t open until 9am, and then we had to divvy up the foodstuffs, squeeze everything into our bear canisters and reload our packs. As we were repacking, we met some fellow JMT thru-hikers also picking up their resupply. I’ve found that camaraderie amongst backcountry hikers is effortless.  As John Muir said, “One touch of Nature makes the whole world kin.” You feel that kinship among just about everyone you meet on the trail. I think Muir was on to something.

John Muir Trail Day 4

Distance: 10.25 miles
Cumulative Distance: 40.75 miles
Total Ascent: 1,475 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 12,570 ft
Harrison Map Sheet 12
GPX file

The trail up Lyell Canyon was heavenly. Well, the first nine miles or so.

First off, the trail is soft, smooth and straight. It’s as close to level as you’ll see on the JMT. And it parallels the sublime waters of the Lyell Fork creek. The waters of Lyell Fork were so clear and so stunning, it was difficult to keep out of the water. So we jumped in! 

At our lunch break, Joan and I (Jeffrey and Hari were up ahead, as routine) found a secluded boulder outcrop next to a wide, deep section of the creek. We kicked our boots off and stretched out on the boulders like lizards in the sun. When it got a little too warm, we jumped into the invigorating water, washing away the trail grime and sweat. It was heaven on earth.

We lazily lounged about for two hours, enjoying the perfect setting, and then decided we’d better hit the trail again if we were going to make camp before nightfall.

Enjoying the Journey

We found that by the end of the day, we were so exhausted, that after cleaning up from dinner, we just wanted to climb into our tent to sleep. I loved our long lunches when we lounged, soaked our tired feet in the water, and took some time to enjoy the moment.

Our elevation gain for the day was modest by JMT standards (about 1,475 ft). But most of it was in the last mile. The trail is made up of granite steps better suited to horses than humans. This makes sense because both the JMT and the PCT were designed specifically to support horses, explaining in part the giant-sized steps we climbed to our camp for the night.

We made camp at Upper Lyell Canyon, just before the wooden bridge. There are a number of great camp sites here, and they are spread out far enough that although we had seen other hikers there, we weren’t aware of their presence when we were at our camp site.

Lyell Fork runs rapid here, so filtering water required extra caution. We didn’t want to fall in or lose any equipment.

And at an elevation of 9,670 ft, we were nearing the tree line. Tomorrow we’d be heading over snow-covered Donohue Pass and saying good-bye to Yosemite.

Tuolumne Meadows to Upper Lyell Canyon

This map details our journey on Day 4 of the JMT, from Tuolumne Meadows to Upper Lyell Canyon. You’ll notice that the trail follows a nice, gentle slope for the first nine miles, then ends with a strenuous climb. Phew!

JMT Day 4 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we hike over Donohue and Island Pass and down to Thousand Island Lake. 

Originally hiked on July 30, 2010. 

Day 3 on the John Muir Trail and we were starting a long way from where we originally planned to camp. Our unauthorized off-trail camp dubbed The Middle of Somewhere was beautiful and quiet, but we had 3.5 miles to hike just to get to Sunrise High Sierra Camp, where we should’ve been starting. If you do the math, that means that yesterday’s little excursion to Clouds Rest turned today’s easy 8.6 mile trek into a more rigorous 12.1 miles.

John Muir Trail Day 3

Distance: 12.1 miles
Cumulative Distance: 30.5 miles
Total Ascent: 2,124 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 11,095 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 13 and 12
GPX file

The water on Sunrise Lakes was still, reflecting like a mirror.  We hiked quietly, passing only a few other backpackers, and felt as though we had the mountains to ourselves.

From Sunrise Lakes, we pass over a saddle and down to Sunrise High Sierra Camp. Finally we were back on the JMT. We stopped for lunch but didn’t linger — the mosquitos were as hungry as we were.

From here the trail winds along the perimeter of the meadow, slowly and steadily climbing towards Cathedral Pass — the first of many mountain passes on the JMT. From the pass it’s a well-shaded, downhill trek to the Tuolumne Meadows.

When we reached Tuolumne Meadows, it was tempting to think we had “arrived.” We caught glimpses of Tioga Road through the trees and could hear passing cars. There were more casual hikers in the area, but we still had a full mile yet to go before we would reach the backpacker’s campground. It was one of those times when a mile seems longer than it really is.

Hari and Jeffrey were already there and had staked out a spot for us. Unfortunately the Tuolumne Post Office had closed about 15 minutes earlier, so we would have to wait to pick-up our resupply package until the morning. Fortunately, the diner was open. We feasted on cheeseburgers and fries. We earned it.

Three days on the John Muir Trail were under our belts. We summited Half Dome and Clouds Rest. And we made it to our first resupply point — Tuolumne Meadows.

Resupply at Tuolumne

You might wonder why you would bother resupplying at Tuolumne — a mere three days into a three week trek on the JMT. Consider this: you will carry on average two pounds of food, per person, per day. The next resupply point is Reds Meadow — three days further. Skipping this resupply point would mean carrying an extra six pounds. The math says, resupply at Tuolumne.

Middle of Somewhere to Tuolumne Meadows

This map details our journey from our off trail camp to Sunrise High Sierra Camp, over Cathedral Pass and down to Tuolumne Meadows.

JMT Day 3 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we head up Lyell Canyon.

Originally hiked on July 29, 2010. 

It’s day two on the John Muir Trail. We woke up feeling creaky but confident. Hiking up Half Dome on day one tested our mettle. Today, we planned to hike 10.4 miles to the Sunrise High Sierra Camp. We ate our super-charged oatmeal breakfast and broke camp. As we were getting ready to leave, we saw a bear wandering near the western edge of the camp.

Black bears are common along the JMT, especially in the more popular areas such as Little Yosemite Valley. That’s one of the reasons they have bear lockers for your food in some places, and require an approved bear-proof canister for food storage everywhere else.

This bear was getting ready to wander into the campground to snag some unsuspecting camper’s breakfast or an open bear box — both reasons to be vigilant with your food in the mountains.  Black bears won’t chase you down unless they or their young are threatened. We chose to keep a safe distance and admire the bear from afar.

John Muir Trail Day 2

Distance: 6.8 miles
Cumulative Distance: 18.4 miles
Total Ascent: 3,971 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 8,971 ft
Harrison Map Sheet 13
GPX file (official JMT)
GPX file (Clouds Rest)

There is also a junction here with a trail to Clouds Rest. 

Hari and Jeffrey — armed with the energy of youth — were well ahead of us.  Joan and I hiked at our normal slow-and-steady pace. Joan suspected we were too far from Sunrise Creek, and questioned my navigation skills. I reassured her that we were on the correct trail, and we kept hiking onward (and upward).

The climb was suspiciously relentless. We weren’t supposed to be gaining this much elevation, were we? Soon, I was second-guessing myself. We consulted with some hikers coming down the trail toward us. “Hi! Where ya’ coming from?” is the typical refrain when passing other hikers on the trail. “Sunrise” they replied. I took this to confirm that we were in fact headed in the right direction, since we were headed towards Sunrise High Sierra Camp.

We continued on, hiking even higher.

There’s a peculiar truth about the psychology of climbing thousands of feet of elevation gain. You don’t want that climbing to be for nothing. You sincerely want to be right, so you haven’t “wasted” that effort, only to have to retrace your steps and hike even further than you had planned. That’s where I was at, and the higher we hiked, the more committed I had become.

Another group of hikers came down the trail toward us. “Where ya hiking from?” “Oh, we’re coming down from Clouds Rest.”

Ugh. Not what I had wanted to hear. 

I ate humble pie and we revisited our map to come up with Plan B. It turns out, we were well on our way to Clouds Rest and miles up the wrong trail. We decided to continue on and past Sunrise Lakes (obviously the “Sunrise” the earlier hikers had referred to). From there a trail looped down to Sunrise High Sierra Camp. We wouldn’t make it today, but we wouldn’t be too far off, either.

Jeff Eats Humble Pie

The John Muir Trail is very well marked, but you still need to know how to navigate… and listen to your girlfriend! Although Joan will be the first to admit she is generally “directionally challenged,” she was 100% right on this one. I chose the wrong trail, then stubbornly insisted on following it. There’s a lesson in there…

Always Look at the Bright Side of Life

The benefit of our “alternative” route is that we got to summit not only Half Dome, yesterday, but Clouds Rest today. Clouds Rest has magnificent views of Half Dome, Yosemite Valley, and 360 degrees of pure wilderness beauty. And although Jeffrey slack-packed up here yesterday afternoon, we could boast that we summited with our full backpacks. Hah!

Impromptu off-trail camp

I discovered that I once again had cell reception on Clouds Rest (thank you AT&T) and left a message for Jeffrey and Hari explaining that we would meet them at Tuolumne Meadows tomorrow.

After Clouds Rest, we continued until on past an tiny unnamed creek and setup an impromptu and unauthorized camp for the night off trail. This is strictly against the rules in Yosemite, but we weren’t prepared to hike through the darkness. We were very careful to choose a spot where we would leave no trace. We setup camp for the night in a little place I like to call The Middle of Somewhere, because we knew where we were, but weren’t where we planned to be.

Little Yosemite Valley to Clouds Rest and the Middle of Somewhere

This map details our journey from Little Yosemite Valley to Cloud’s Rest and on to our impromptu off-trail camp.

Jeffrey and Hari managed to stay on the JMT, but decided to power on past Sunrise (too many mosquitos) and camped at the Cathedral Lakes (also too many mosquitos, but not enough energy or time to continue further). Jeffrey captured some great shots of the lake at the golden hour.

This also set them up for an easy 5 mile hike downhill hike to Tuolumne Meadows the next day.

Little Yosemite Valley to Cathedral Lakes

This is the “correct” route along the JMT which Jeffrey and Hari followed.

JMT Day 2 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we head to Tuolumne Meadows for our first resupply.

Originally hiked on July 28, 2010. 

The night is fading as we awaken, excited to finally start hiking the John Muir Trail. I slept like a log at the backpacker’s campground, but Jeffrey and Hari heard people chasing a bear away from the car campground. We eat a quick breakfast, break camp, don our backpacks and walk along the road to our official starting point, the trailhead at Happy Isles.

John Muir Trail Day 1

Distance: 11.6 miles
Cumulative Distance: 11.6 miles
Total Ascent: 5,000 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 5,000 ft
Harrison Map Sheet 13
GPX file

At the backpacker’s campground, getting ready to pack up and hit the JMT!

While not part of the official mileage, first we had to get to the trailhead.

We reached the trailhead took the obligatory starting photo.

The “trail” starts out as a paved, asphalt path due to the sheer number of people who head up this route to visit Vernal and Nevada Falls. Most of the other people on the path are day hikers, gawking at our packs and gear. We’re on an emotional high, as months of planning, training and preparation finally bears fruit.

As we climb higher, we hear and see the mighty falls, with Liberty Dome and Half Dome. The thought races through our minds — “We’re going to be up there later today?!”

We buzz along, taking photos and stopping for a snack at the top of Nevada Falls. Although we’ve been here before, it feels great to be back, this time on a bona fide adventure.

Above the falls, the trail climbs a bit more, finally leveling out along the headwaters of the Merced River. The John Muir Trail splits here. To the right, it runs close to the river through coarsely ground granite — difficult to hike in. To the left, it gets more sun exposure. Both lead the final mile to the campground at Little Yosemite Valley.

Happy Isles to Little Yosemite Valley

This map details our journey from Happy Isles to the Little Yosemite Valley campground.

At this point, we’ve hiked a modest 4.4 miles, but gained over 2,000 ft in elevation. We found a suitable campsite (don’t expect solitude — this campground is booked solid, and nearly as cramped as the backpacker’s campground in the valley), dropped our backpacks and stowed our food in the bear locker.  We put together a slack-pack with water and snacks, and headed up Half Dome.

Little Yosemite Valley to Half Dome

After dropping our gear and setting up camp, we hiked this route up Half Dome and back.

Half Dome Permits

Because of the volume of foot traffic Half Dome gets, a permit system was introduced. When we hiked this, you were allowed to include Half Dome if you had a permit for the John Muir Trail.

Today  you must specifically request this as part of your wilderness permit if you plan to include a side-trip to Half Dome. See Half Dome Permits for Backpackers for details.

Heading up Half Dome is a 7.2 mile round trip from Little Yosemite Valley, with another 2,700 ft of elevation gain.

We reached the shoulder, and climb the series of steep switchbacks with big steps carved into the granite. This section is a little gnarly, as one mis-step and you’re in for a nasty tumble. From the top of that, you actually descend to the saddle and the base of the cables.

While the practice is discouraged, it’s common to see a pile of gloves at the base of the cables. Pick up a pair and use them. I’ve seen the bloody hands of those who chose to skip using gloves, so either suck it up and borrow a used pair or bring your own.

Going up the cables is pretty simple and also pretty safe — as long as you use common sense. The two cables are elevated to “railing” height, and there are wood boards laid at roughly 12 foot intervals where you can stand on the steep granite and give your arms a rest. The dangerous part is that there are many other people going up and down these same cables, and each time you pass someone, the negotiation takes extra care. We made a point to stop at those boards when meeting someone coming down the cables.

Jeffrey and Hari were already at the top as Joan and I ascended the cables. About half way up, I heard Joan call out. She was feeling nervous and wanted to go back down. I came back down the cables to her and we talked through it. Finally, she decided to give it another try, with me right behind her. She made it!

Joan on Day 1 of the JMT

“Even though we had trained extensively, I was nervous and not really sure what it would be like. Just walking to the trailhead along the road my pack felt really heavy! As the day went on, it got easier… until we hiked up Half Dome. It’s a tough hike, and I got really scared on the cables. I felt like I was holding up the line. When I made it to the top, I felt great!

“I was exhausted when we got back to camp, but felt like if I could do Half Dome, I could do anything.”

The top of Half Dome is broad — about the size of a football field. You can wander around pretty safely as long as you’re careful around the edges. We enjoyed the views, took lots of photos, then headed back down.

Half Dome Tips

• Going down the cables, a lot of people get really uptight and nervous. What I’ve found works best is to face downhill and “walk” down Half Dome using my gloved hands as brakes. Instead of standing upright, my body is perpendicular to the slope. This seems a little unnatural at first, but gives you a lot of control and worked well for Joan, also.
• There’s no reliable water source between Little Yosemite Valley and Half Dome, so plan accordingly. Once you reach the saddle, you’ll have a lot of sun exposure and with the elevation and climbing, it’s easy to get dehydrated. We had about a liter each, and wished we could’ve had just a bit more.

Back at Little Yosemite Valley, we wandered down to the Merced and took a refreshing dip in the water. As we filtered water, we spied a deer and fawn casually crossing upstream. An idyllic scene.

Hari, Joan and I cooked and ate dinner. Jeffrey had a goal to hike up Cloud’s Rest in addition to Half Dome (insane, right?). The sun set and we began to get a little worried when Jeffrey didn’t show up. We checked with the rangers at the Little Yosemite Valley ranger station, and they basically said to wait. We actually had cell phone coverage up here (I’m on AT&T) and left him a voice message as well as a text. Finally about 9:30pm, Jeffrey made it back to camp.  Yes, he climbed Half Dome and Cloud’s Rest on his first day of the JMT.

JMT Day 1 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we head from Little Yosemite Valley to Sunrise.

Originally hiked on July 27, 2010.

This day, three years ago…

We woke up early and at 6am, were the first customers at the Alabama Hills Cafe. There’s something great about guilt-free eating, knowing that you’ll be running a caloric deficit for three weeks and, why yes you can have the pancakes and an omelet. What the heck! We gorged ourselves to the point of feeling ill, then wobbled back across to the Dow Villa, grabbed our backpacks, and waited for our shuttle.

One of the logistic challenges with hiking the John Muir Trail is transportation. If you’re lucky, you might be able to coordinate with friends who want to spend a day or two in Yosemite to see you off. Even then, you’ll need room for your crew, your stuff, and all of their gear as well.

Or you can take two vehicles, dropping one off at the end (Whitney Portal in our case) and then carpooling up to Yosemite. The problem with this is that when you finish the JMT, you’ll have to drive all the way back up to Yosemite to retrieve the other car.

200 miles from Lone Pine to Yosemite Valley

Public transportation is an option, but this too, is challenging. You’ll save money, but need more time to make your way, as you switch from bus to shuttle and so forth. If you have more time than money, it’s probably the best option.

In our case, we had scheduled just enough time to drive up to Lone Pine on one day, drive to Yosemite the next day, hike the JMT and then drive directly home.  That meant hiring a driver to shuttle us from Lone Pine to Yosemite Valley. We booked Mt. Whitney Shuttle, and the fare for all four of us ran a whopping $595 bucks! Split four ways, it worked out to roughly $150 apiece. Gulp!

Our driver — Richard — was awesome. He was waiting for us right at the scheduled time — 7am, and kept us entertained with his stories on the way up. When we reached Tioga Pass Road, we made a stop at The Mobil and then joined the throngs snaking our way up and over Tioga Pass.

Before dropping down into the valley, we stopped at Olmstead Point and took in the views. There were some tourists who had setup telescopes pointed at Half Dome, and you could make out the hikers clambering up the cables to the top — something we hoped to be doing this time tomorrow!

The Weigh-In

Jeffrey’s back-breaking “winner”

Richard drove us down into the Yosemite Valley and dropped us off at the Ranger Station. We picked up our permit (you get an email confirmation, but still have to show up in person to claim your actual permit). They grilled us about our plans and whether we had bear canisters (we did). Permit in hand, we took turns weighing our packs on the scale out front.

The results?

• Hari: 33 lbs
• Joan: 35 lbs
• Jeff: 45 lbs
• Jeffrey: 69 lbs — The Winner!?

Clearly Jeffrey was either an animal or slightly demented. Time would tell.

Backpacker’s Campground

We headed to the backpacker’s campground. This is a small campground where hikers with backcountry permits may spend one night (since you typically have to pick up your permit the day before you start). It’s pretty close to a car camping area, but you take a beautiful bridge over a stream where there are no cars, and it’s a little more quiet. We stowed our food and smelly items in the bear locker, setup our tents and relaxed a bit.

As I laid on my back, looking up a the clear blue skies, I watched and listened as the towering pines swayed in the breeze, dancing to the rhythm of nature.

For our last dinner before the trail, Joan and I ambled over to Curry Village for a cold, hops-based beverage, crowds and pizza. This place is insanely crowded in the summer, but it’s an awesome place to people-watch. Joan got lucky, and nabbed a couple seats at the bar while I waited in line for pizza.

We made it back to the backpacker’s campground in the dark, and were surprisingly tired. Maybe it was the anticipation of what was to come, but we went to sleep pretty early.

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Tomorrow morning, we  start hiking the John Muir Trail! 

Originally hiked on July 26, 2010. 

Evie’s letter reads:

Dear Park Rangers,

I am a Yosemite Junior Ranger. I went to Yosemite recently and accidentally brought home two sticks. I know I’m not supposed to take things away from the park, so I am sending them back. Please put them in nature.

Thank you,

Evie

Awfully cute. Apparently someone has been paying attention to those leave no trace messages after all. We could learn a thing or two from Evie.

via Redditor bestmattever

Yosemite is one of my favorite places on earth. I’ve backpacked and hiked throughout the park on many occasions, and yet there is still so much more to see an experience.

Sheldon Neill and Colin Delehanty met via Vimeo, and discovered a mutual love for Yosemite. They set out to capture Yosemite’s beauty in this amazing high-definition time-lapse video. I think they did a damn fine job.

[responsive_vimeo https://vimeo.com/35396305]

Discover more about Project Yosemite at http://projectyose.com/

If planning to backpack Yosemite, remember that you need to be applying for permits 26 weeks in advance. There are backcountry quotas that fill up quickly.

I had never attempted to visit a national park on Memorial Day weekend, but it turns out to be a sort of unofficial start to the summer season. Yes, I would do it again if the opportunity came up. And yes, I would pick a different weekend if given a choice (it was crowded… more on that later).

Gear for four

The twelve of us had two campsites in the Upper Pines campground. We left Orange County at 6am on Saturday morning, reached the park entrance at 11:30am, and were waved right through without paying. That seemed odd until we left on Monday afternoon, and they collected our $20 entrance fee upon exiting. Apparently they sometimes wave people through to minimize traffic backups on entrance, and instead collect the fees when you exit.

I slept beneath the stars

The drive from the south entrance to the valley is about 40 miles, but once we hit the valley, traffic ground to a halt. We didn’t reach the campground until 1:30pm. We claimed our sleeping space and unloaded the gear, taking care to empty the Xterra of anything that had any scent (gum, toothpaste, and food, of course). With everything safely locked in the bear boxes, we put on our boots and prepared to hike.

Our original plan was to hike the Upper Yosemite Falls trail to Yosemite Point on Saturday afternoon, and then on Sunday, hike the Four Mile Trail to Glacier Point, then back down to the valley via the Panorama Trail. Unfortunately, the Four Mile Trail was still closed due to snow and ice, which the ranger station confirmed on Friday. Some of the group had permits to hike up Half Dome on Monday, but the cables were not up (and in fact, the NPS web site says two weeks before they’ll be up). So we had to be flexible and adjust our plans.

By the time we headed out, it was 3pm — a little late for the Upper Yosemite Falls trail — so we opted instead to hike the Mist Trail to the top of Nevada Falls, then loop down via the John Muir Trail back to Happy Isles. This is a fantastic, scenic hike most any time, but with this year’s above-average snowfall, the waterfalls were really spectacular. I’ll post a detailed trail report later this week, but suffice to say this is a great hike that’s well worth doing, even with the crowds.

Pint glasses for the locals

Afterwards, we fought the crowds at Curry Village and somehow managed to grab a couple stools at the bar for a well-earned cold ale and a hot pizza. We met the locals — the employees who often end their day here — including Larry the Baker and Jarod the Carpenter (it was his 15th season working in Yosemite). Jarod explained that there are about 2,200 employees living in the valley, and this weekend is the busiest of the year with about 25,000 people in Yosemite. At times it looked like most of them were sitting in their cars.

Traffic at a standstill

On Sunday, we headed out about 9am and took the shuttle to Yosemite Village. We found the Wilderness Center where we will pickup our JMT permits the day before our big trip, and walked to Yosemite Falls.

I’ve been to Yosemite six or seven times, but I have never seen so much water flowing through the falls. Most of the times I’ve been there in the past were later in the summer when the creek starts drying up. This was very different. And spectacular.

Our Sunday hike was the steep Upper Yosemite Falls trail, which gains nearly 2,700 feet of elevation in 3.2 miles and another 300 feet over 0.9 miles to Yosemite Point. Another terrific hike that I’ll write-up this week. Crowded, but worth doing at least once.

Monday, we drove up to scenic Glacier Point (the road had just opened the day before), soaked in the views, took some photos, and headed homeward. Getting out of the park wasn’t too bad, but we still hit stop-and-go traffic heading down the 5 that afternoon.

Many, many thanks to our outdoor friends, including Jeff A., Wendy, Tanya, Chhai, Carlos, Matt, Linda, Ramona and Wendy’s two friends (whose names I cannot recall). As true of most everyone I meet on the trail, everyone was really friendly and we all had a great time!

Photo Gallery

Click any thumbnail for a larger version. I’ve also posted a few highlights on Flickr and more people-oriented shots on Facebook.

Expert Advice

• Do you use Twitter? Follow @YosemiteNPS. I sent out a tweet about the Four Mile Trail and got a response via Twitter within minutes!
• One of the best unofficial resources I’ve found for hiking in Yosemite is YosemiteHikes.com. The provide great trail guides complete with maps and witty narrative. Highly recommended.