Yosemite National P ark, and in particular Yosemite Valley, is home to some of the most famous wilderness landmarks in America. But north of the Valley, and north of Highway 120 and Tuolumne Meadows, resides an area of the park known as the Yosemite Wilderness. And in the same way that the mighty Merced River cuts its way through the 3,000+ foot deep Yosemite Valley, so too does the powerful Tuolumne River cut its way through a similarly spectacular canyon in the Yosemite Wilderness know simply as The Grand Canyon of Tuolumne. This huge river runs West and Southwest from Tuolumne Meadows, through Glen Aulin and then almost 20 miles to the massive Hetch Hetchy Reservoir – all the while cutting its way through the deep and massive Grand Canyon of Tuolumne. The Grand Canyon features a series of famous waterfalls at it’s upper/Eastern end, including Waterwheel Falls, LeConte Falls, California Falls and Tuolumne Falls.

Trail Details

Trail Map Distance: 47.1 miles
Time: 5 days
Difficulty: Moderately Strenuous
Elevation Gain: ~10,000 ft
Dogs: No
When to Go: Mid-June to Early September. For BIG waterfalls, early summer is best.

The Grand Canyon of Tuolumne can be backpacked as a multi-day out-and-back from either its West side or East Side, or it can be backpacked as a loop – starting from either Tuolumne Meadows or from White Wolf. We decided to backpack it as a loop starting and ending at White Wolf in a fantastic 5-day, 50-mile backcountry adventure.

Why start/end at White Wolf? Several reasons:

• During 2022, the Tuolumne Meadows backpacker’s camp was CLOSED for restoration and repairs. This eliminated the opportunity to sleep there the night before our start for acclimation and gear shakedowns. The White Wolf campground was open and available.
• The White Wolf campground is much closer to the entrance to the GC of Tuolumne, eliminating the out-and-back miles that would have to be repeated from Tuolumne Meadows to Glen Aulin and back.
• The White Wolf campground day one start would be almost all downhill into the GC of Tuolumne – a good way to start day one.

Planning the Trip

We booked our backcountry permit online through the Yosemite backcountry permit system exactly 168 days prior to our entry date. The map we used to plan our route was the Tom Harrison Yosemite High Country Map. This one map shows the entire route. We chose the following schedule for our trip – hoping that this would keep our average miles around 10 miles per day and also put us near water each night:

• Travel Day One: Drive to Yosemite National Park via Highway 395 and Highway 120 – enter YNP at the Highway 120 Eastern Gate. Acquire our backcountry permit at the Tuolumne Meadows ranger station. Then drive to White Wolf, sign in and pay the money at the drop box, and pitch camp in the White Wolf backpackers camp.
• Day One: Hike from White Wolf North to Harden Lake, then East/Northeast and down into the GC of Tuolumne to Pate Valley.  
• Day Two: Hike East up the GC of Tuolumne to Waterwheel Falls.
• Day Three: Hike East up and out of the GC of Tuolumne to Glen Aulin, then South to the May Lake / Ten Lakes trail junction with a side trip to Polly Dome Lakes.
• Day Four: Hike West around Tuolumne Peak to Ten Lakes.
• Day Five: Hike over Ten Lakes Pass and then South and West to White Wolf, load up the car and then head home via a night in Bishop.

Total (Tom Harrison Map) Miles (including the side trip to Polly Dome Lakes): 48.9 Miles.

(NOTE: Actual GPS hiking mileage as recorded by the GaiaGPS for iPhone app was 53.35 Miles.

Map of the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne Loop

Day One – White Wolf Campground to Pate Valley

The trail from White Wolf Campground starts as a fire access road heading North towards the GC. In just under three miles you reach Harden Lake, which during our late-summer trip was quite low.

From Harden Lake the trail heads east and Down, Down, Down into the GC, winding its way 3,000 vertical feet to the canyon floor and the Tuolumne River. During this first week of September, the cool temperatures of White Wolf would skyrocket to over 100 degrees at the canyon floor! The switchback trail winds it way down Morrison Creek, which at this time of year was bone dry. 

The smoke from the Rogers fire was burning high up on the opposite canyon ridge, so we were in no danger. Looking back, there are a few good view points where you can make out the Hetch Hetchy reservoir to the West. This would be a much prettier hike earlier in the season, with some fun water crossings too.

Once at the canyon floor, the trail winds East/Northeast along the river. At approximately 10 miles in from White Wolf, you arrive at Pate Valley. There’s a large summer work camp there, and several bridges that cross over the Tuolumne River from the south side to the north side. Next to the main bridge is a fairly large area of calm river and several sandy beaches where we were able to get our shoes off and soak in the cold river water for some relief from the 100-degree heat! Pate Valley is known for its rattlesnake activity, and today was no exception. No sooner did we set foot on the beach than a huge black rattler greeted us. Needless to say we selected another spot to sit!

After a rattlesnake-free soak in the river, we decided to pack up and head up the trail further to find a more shaded campsite, as the sites at the Pate Valley bridge were very sun-exposed. We found a nice little spot along the trail with good river access about a mile up the trail, and pitched camp. It would be a hot night in the tent, with temps never getting below the mid-70s, sleeping on top of our bags…not in them. But we would get some sleep in the end. We would need it for the BIG climbing day tomorrow.

Day Two – Upper Pate Valley to Waterwheel Falls

Day Two of our adventure in the Grand Canyon of Tuolumne would be our big climbing day, as we would be heading directly UP the canyon. We woke to continued warm temps, had coffee and hit the trail while still dark to try and catch as much cool weather as we could. NOTE: try and avoid the biggest heatwave of the summer when doing this trip. Less than a mile up the trail, Pate Valley delivered its second rattlesnake sighting. This guy was sprawled out across the trail – and he was a big one! After throwing small rocks near him for a while, he finally decided to move out of the trail and into the woods – and we were able to continue our hike. It would be nice to get out of Pate Valley.

The hike up the Grand Canyon of Tuolumne is stunning. Like it’s big brother Yosemite Valley, the huge walls of granite on both sides of the powerful river make for an absolutely stunning backdrop. Up, up, up the trail climbs – and in places it leaves the canyon floor to climb around large rock formations, making for some challenging switchback ascents. As the temperatures rise again, the ascending becomes more challenging, and we work our way section by section, stopping to drink and rest and give each other pep talks to keep going strong. Again, this would be easier and more pleasant in earlier summer temperatures. The heat wave was energy sapping.

Finally, after an all-day hike and a final set of steep switchies, we arrive at Waterwheel Falls. Again, the late season waterfall flow is less than the majestic photos found in guide books, but it’s still quite beautiful and the perfect place to spend the night. The view from the top of the falls looking West unfolds to the grand canyon below, and the view to the East displays the most amazing sunset against the granite canyon walls. Above the falls, the river opens up to a beautiful still pond, and we sit on the flat granite and enjoy and perfectly gorgeous evening.

Later that night, the wind would pick up – making our sleep less than peaceful as it buffered our tent repeatedly. But in the end, it was a beautiful spot to enjoy the GC of Tuolumne.

Day Three – Waterwheel Falls to May Lake / Ten Lakes Trail Junction

Day Three is the “Waterfall Money Day” in the GC of Tuolumne. The first three or so miles up to the top of the canyon and Glen Aulin feature a series of gorgeous falls and granite features. Again we started early to beat the heat, so our views of the falls were shaded and lovely.

LeConte Falls

First, we arrive at LeConte Falls. Again, the late season flow is light, but it’s still an absolutely beautiful setting. Next, we climb up to California Falls – and hike in a bit off-trail to get a close up view. After California falls, the trail departs a bit North of the river and winds it way through the stunning Glen Aulin meadow. The walls of the canyon jut straight up from the side of the trail, and the lush green meadow creates an incredibly vibrant color pallet.    As we approach the junction of the Pacific Crest Trail and the Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp, the final water feature is the White Cascade – with its water flow and red rock, the sunrise gives it an absolutely beautiful look.

We stop for a quick rest just after the bridge over the Tuolumne River to admire the magnificent Tuolumne Falls and check out the map for upcoming water sources. Again, the late season schedule as eliminated most if not all of the seasonal water sources – so we need to make sure we’ll have water on this next leg of the trip. After a map review, we decide that we’d better carry and extra load of water – so I fill up our dirty bag at the falls with 4 extra liters of water and strap it to the outside of my pack. Not the most pleasant additional weight, but better safe the sorry. With the water strapped in, we turn away from the PCT (that heads back to Tuolumne Meadows) and head south and UP on the May Lake trail.

As we pass McGee Lake – a potential water source – we confirm that the lake is low and dirty, so we’re happy we have extra water. We encounter a solo hiker doing the same loop but counter clockwise and he confirms there’s not much water around. We then encounter two rangers on horseback that have ridden up from May Lake and Tuolumne Meadows on patrol. In a “small world” story, we find out that the ranger is from Southern California and works with Montrose SAR! We talk about the Angeles NF a bit, confirm the lack of water, and discuss a water side trip to Polly Dome Lakes. The ranger tells us how to find the trail and we say goodbye and carry on.

We find the turnoff to Polly Dome Lakes and I convince my wife that the extra 1.8 miles will be worth it to have a full water source. It’s a small up and down trail but it leads us to a beautiful and stunning setting on the lake with tons of camping areas. My wife is bushed from the lack of good sleep the night before, so I lay out a towel and get her comfortable for an afternoon nap. While she naps, I dump out all the water and do a complete fresh re-fill of all our water containers. Now we are good to go for the night and next morning. The combination of the water source, naptime and the beauty of this pristine lake make the 1.8 mile side trip totally worth it! After my wife wakes up – fully refreshed – the clouds start to roll in and it looks like a thunderstorm is on its way. So, we saddle up fast and head back to the main trail and south to the May Lake / Ten Lakes trail junction hoping to beat the storm.

Polly Dome Lakes

We arrive at the trail junction and scope out a flat piece of ground to pitch camp. As it starts to sprinkle, we quickly get the tent up and get everything secured in the vestibule. No sooner are we done than the thunder, lightning and rain hit full force. We jump in the tent and hunker down, riding out 30 minutes of storm. When it passes, we climb back out – inspect everything – and cook dinner. We are good to go for the night with enough water to get us to the next viable source on the way up to Ten Lakes the next day.

Day Four – May Lake / Ten Lakes Trail Junction to Ten Lakes

The climb to Ten Lakes starts off with about a mile of flat trail crossing a beautiful meadow.

Day 4 sunrise

Then the climbing and switchbacks begin as the trail heads north and northeast up and around the 10,800 foot Tuolumne Peak. It’s beautiful alpine hiking with fantastic views to the north back towards where we came. We encountered three hikers on this part of the trail. 

After 3 or 4 miles, on the Northwest corner of the base of Tuolumne Peak, the trail dives back down into the South Fork drainage. On the way down the steep switchbacks, we find a beautiful, crystal-clear spring bubbling up from the ground – and we take the opportunity to have a rest and filter some of the cleanest water we’ve had all week…absolutely delicious. At the bottom of the switchbacks, the trail then turns directly North and heads about a mile and half up the South Fork drainage through some beautiful forested areas and a lovely meadow. There is a bit of water in the South Fork, but it’s pretty dry. Luckily we are filled up with that amazing spring water so we don’t need to stop.

At the top of the South Fork drainage, the trail then turns immediately West and UP UP UP about 800 vertical feet of crazy switchbacks to make the climb towards Ten Lakes. We stop at the bottom and eat a light lunch before making the climb, as the sun is now up and in full force and this will be a HOT ascent. We encounter one solo hiker coming down from Ten Lakes, and he asks us about water sources. We turn him on to the location of the magical spring, and he thanks us and heads off.

We begin our ascent of the switchbacks – taking it one section at a time and hydrating regularly as the sun is now beating down and temps are HIGH. We complete the climb quickly and efficiently and then slowing ascend the final flatter section to the first of the Ten Lakes. Of the Ten Lakes, the two largest ones are actually right on the Ten Lakes trail (the others require some off-trail nav via use trails). We stop at the first one (“East” lake) at 9,400 feet elevation and have a rest and filter some water. There are some great campsites there are zero people, but we decide to keep going to the second lake (“West” lake) which will position us better for the climb over Ten Lakes Pass the next morning. We hike the last mile and change, descending down to the “West” lake at 8,950 feet. The view on the descent is stunning and we stop a take a few pictures. We arrive at the “West” lake and pitch camp on a rock outcropping overlooking the lake. Because Ten Lakes – accessible directly from the Yosemite Creek / Ten Lakes trail head on highway 120 – is only about a 6-mile hike in, there are quite a few people camping there by the end of the evening. We share the lakefront with some other campers and swimmers during dinner, but then everyone settles in for a quiet night. The storm rolls in but we don’t get hit as hard as the night before. This will be our last night in the Yosemite Wilderness.

Day 5 – Ten Lakes to White Wolf

We wake up early and pack up our gear for the last time. The morning is cool, which is good because we now have to climb 800 feet of switchbacks in about a mile to get out of the Ten Lakes area and up-and-over Ten Lakes Pass. We begin the due West climb up the switchbacks – and it doesn’t take long for the East-rising sun to start to heat us up. We encounter some pikas and a huge Marmot on the switchback ascent, as Ten Lakes Pass is reasonably high up at 9,670 feet in elevation.

We finish the ascent and arrive at Ten Lakes Pass – a beautiful alpine meadow – and are greeted by some playful deer. Now – we begin our 8 mile descent South and West to are starting point at White Wolf campground. After the initial set of steep downward switchbacks, the trail crosses the lovely Half Moon Meadow. We encounter a pair of backpackers camped out there, but otherwise it is quiet and still. It’s a beautiful meadow at the base of the Ten Lakes Pass – and we make a note to come back and visit it again.

From there, it’s another 2 miles or so until the trail junction of the Ten Lakes Trail and the East/West White Wolf Trail. We stop at the junction for a snack – there’s no water in Yosemite Creek at the junction, but we have plenty so we are ok to keep going. The trail heads directly West towards White Wolf, covering about 3 ½ miles of beautiful dense forest with some amazingly large trees. It also winds its way through a burn area left over from the Lukens fire many years earlier. But the forest is coming back – which is a good sign. From the Lukens Lake trail junction, it’s now just a bit under 2 miles to complete our journey.

We arrive back at the White Wolf Campground to the eerie sight of zero people. The campground closed just after Labor Day (the day after we were there), so it was locked up tight and no one was around. We saw two people sitting at a picnic table, and they look surprised to see us coming out of the forest, but other than that – no one. We were the only car left in the overflow parking, which was weird. We packed everything back into the car and followed the dirt loop back to the access road.

When we got to the access road / Highway 120 junction the GATE WAS CLOSED! Uh oh – how were we going to out??? I’ve got no phone signal either!! My first thought was to turn around and go back to those two people at the picnic table and say “how the heck did you guys get in here???” But first, I decided to get out of the car and check the gate. Sure enough, it was closed BUT THE LOCK wasn’t latched. Phew!!! I unwrapped the lock and chain and opened the gate, moved my car out, and then re-wrapped everything up. It took a few minutes for my heart to slow down LOL.

Alabama Hills Cafe

And just like that, our 5-day adventure on the Yosemite Wilderness Grand Canyon of Tuolumne Loop was complete. Now, time to drive to Bishop for Mexican Food and Beers! Then, the next morning, it would be a stop at the Alabama Hills Café in Lone Pine for breakfast, and then home!

Yosemite Grand Canyon of Tuolumne Tips and Notes

• Wilderness Permits are required to stay overnite in the Yosemite Backcountry. All trailheads are based on a quota system, and permits can be applied for 168 prior to departure. For all information on Yosemite Wilderness Permits, trail quotas and applications, go to https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wildpermits.htm.
• With the exception of the White Wolf Campground backpackers camp, all of the campsites we used on the trail were backcountry sites with NO bear boxes for storage. Therefore, APPROVED bear canisters are required for this loop to store all food and items with a scent. You will be required to go through a quick education process on this when you pick up your permit at the Tuolumne Meadows permit station.  
• We tracked the trip via GaiaGPS for iPhone. Our GPX track can be downloaded above.
• Due to our late season start date, water was scarce in some spots. Lakes and major streams should be used – seasonal water on maps was almost entirely dry. Earlier in the season would yield water from all seasonal sources and would require many wet trail crossings.
• Normally in Yosemite, campfires are permitted above 6,000 fee and below 9,600 fee in elevation in improved rock fire rings. This year, NO FIRES were permitted in the park backcountry.
• We had a short burst of heavy rain on Day 3 and light rain on Day 4, so make sure you have proper rain gear, pack covers and shelter on this loop.

Conclusions

If you are as passionate about Yosemite National Park as we are (after all, we were married at Glacier Point), then a trip to the Northern half of the park and the Yosemite Wilderness should be on your bucket list. The Grand Canyon of Tuolumne and it’s majestic canyon and stunning waterfalls are a box that should be checked off.

Another benefit of this route is the small numbers of people in late season – it is a true backcountry experience after Labor Day.

This loop is perfect for beginner backpackers and experienced backpackers alike.

There’s no better way to see the Northern section of Yosemite National Park than the Grand Canyon of Tuolumne Loop.

Originally hiked September 3-8, 2022 by Greg Glass and Barbara Hale. All photos by the same.

DAY TWO on the North Lake/South Lake Loop

Our second day on the trail would be relatively short, and connect us with the John Muir Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail with the Goddard Canyon Junction our destination. We awoke to another beautiful, clear morning and we headed southwest along Piute Creek towards the JMT junction.

Bishop Loop Day 2 Details

Distance: 8.8 miles
Time: 5-7 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Gain/Loss: +498’/-1,537′
Dogs: No
When to go: Late July-Early October

The trail turned south and down a series of switchbacks, through manzanitas, and all the way down to 8,000 feet and the bridge that crosses over the creek and marks the junction of the John Muir Trail and the entrance to Kings Canyon National Park.

This just happened to be the morning of the full solar eclipse, but unfortunately cloudy skies rolled in and obscured our view and we never got to see it.

We took a few quick pics at the bridge, then crossed over and took a break in the campground on the other side.  Here it started to rain, so after a snack, we put on our rain jackets and covered our packs and headed southwest along the JMT.

This section of the JMT follows the powerful San Joaquin River southwest – past Muir Rock, then through Aspen Meadow, and then across another large bridge with some beautiful campsites on the other side.

We continued along the trail until just before the Goddard Canyon trail junction and bridge – where there was a great campsite along the trail with great access to water and a nice fire pit.  That was ours! The rain had stopped and it was camping time.

Although this was a relatively short 8.8 mile hiking day, it positioned us perfectly to climb up into Evolution Valley first thing the next morning – and that is always our strategy…try and set up the climbs for first thing each morning!  Climbing late in the day after a long day on the trail is no fun…at least for us.

Another family of deer joined us at the campsite, and we enjoyed their company by the fire during dinner until it was time for bed.  I suspect they slept nearby, as they were up and ready to greeting us first thing the next morning.

Hutchinson Meadow to Goddard Canyon Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Originally hiked on Monday, August 21, 2017.

Continue to Day Three: Goddard Canyon to Sapphire Lake

DAY ONE on the North Lake/South Lake Loop

Bishop Loop Day 1 Details

Distance: 12.1 miles
Time: 6-9 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,056 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Late July-Early October

There are several early stream crossings using large logs, but nothing that required getting our feet wet.

About half way up to Piute Pass you reach Loch Leven, a beautiful lake at 10,743 feet.

After a series of gorgeous waterfalls and water features, you climb up to Piute Lake at 10,958 feet.

Finally, it’s a short ascent to Piute Pass at 11,423 feet.

There was one remaining snow field across the trail approaching Piute Pass, with some parts of the snow breaking away – so we used caution and took the safest route across the snow.

From Piute Pass, the views are spectacular to both the East and the West.  To the east, it’s back down Piute Pass trail from where you came.  To the west, it’s the vastness of Humphreys Basin.  We sat, ate lunch and enjoyed the gorgeous views.  There is also a side trail here that heads southwest towards Muriel Lake.

We then continued to head west down and through Humphreys Basin.  The expanse of the basin is truly beautiful.  After passing Summit Lake, there were a few wet crossings and some use trails heading south towards Upper and Lower Golden Trout Lakes.

Once below 10,800 feet the tree line starts again and you head through the forest towards Hutchinson Meadow.  On the west edge of Hutchinson Meadow are a series of wet stream crossings – about six to be exact – that come one after the other…so we left our water shoes on and banged them all out in order.

After the last one, there is a beautiful meadow on the south side of the trail, with gorgeous flat granite rock features – the perfect place to camp for night one.  We pitched our tent directly on the granite and the water source was super close and clean.

We got some beta on this campsite from a pair of backpackers coming the other way on the trail a few hours earlier – and their beta was spot on!  We pitched camp, and then I tried my hand at some fishing in Piute Creek.  No bites, but a beautiful place to cast a line and I had a family of deer as my audience. The bugs were probably the worst here of any night on the trail – so we used the head nets for a bit in the evening before climbing into the tent.

The elevation at Hutchinson Meadow is 9,500 feet – so campfires are allowed.  There was one camp site in the trees with a fire pit, but we chose to camp in the open meadow on the granite and forego a fire for this first night.

Piute Pass Trailhead to Hutchinson Meadow Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Originally hiked on Sunday, August 20, 2017.

Continue to Day Two: Hutchinson Meadow to the Goddard Canyon Bridge Junction

For those who have backpacked the famous John Muir Trail, Evolution Valley is often mentioned as one of the most beautiful and memorable spots along the trail.  But is there a way to get to Evolution Valley on just a one-week backpacking adventure?  The answer is YES – and the most popular of these routes is the North Lake – South Lake Loop.

The North Lake South Lake Loop is a 55-mile trail that begins and ends in the Eastern Sierra in the Inyo National Forest.  The trailheads – one at the North Lake Campground and the other at the South Lake day use parking lot – are just a 10-mile drive apart – and it is equally popular to start at either end.  If hiking as a group, it is very efficient to leave a car at both ends.  If hiking with just one car, there are various local shuttle services that can drop you off at either end.  There is also a public shuttle bus that runs from South Lake to Bishop multiple times a day during the summer months.

Trail Details

Distance: 55 miles
Time: 4-6 days
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 9,418 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Late July-Early October

The 55-mile route is epic!  It starts from the North Lake campground and heads west and up, climbing 2,000 vertical feet over five fairly gentle miles to the summit of Piute Pass.  Then the trail heads across Humphreys Basin and down along Piute Creek until it reaches the San Joaquin River and the bridge that crosses you into Kings Canyon National Park and the John Muir Trail.

Piute Creek

You then head south on the JMT, along the river until you reach the junction with the Goddard Canyon Trail.  From there, you head back west and up up up to Evolution Valley and then Evolution Basin – finally topping out at the summit of Muir Pass. From here, it’s west and south down and into the epic Le Conte Canyon.

Muir Pass

Then, its west and up up up as you depart the JMT and head back via Dusy Basin and the summit of Bishop Pass.  Finally, it’s down along the Bishop Pass trail, passed a half a dozen gorgeous lakes to the South Lake trailhead and done!

Three legendary mountain passes and a journey through Evolution Valley and Evolution Basin – it’s about as perfect as a 5-6 day backpacking trip in the Sierra can get!

North Lake/South Lake Loop Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Permits

Whether you start at North Lake or South Lake, the permitting process is the same.  You apply online at Recreation.gov for either the Piute Pass-North Lake trailhead or the Bishop Pass-South Lake trailhead as your entry point – up to 6-months before your entry date.  You will pick up your permit for either one at the White Mountain Ranger Station in Bishop, CA.  They will ask you how you are storing your food and they will remind you NO fires above 10,000 feet.

Once you have your permit – you’re ready to go!  AND, if you have time, don’t forget to stop at the world famous Burger Barn as you head out of town on Highway 168 – it’s worth the trip!

Six-Day North Lake–South Lake Loop Backpacking Itinerary

We decided on a pre-trip overnight at North Lake Campground followed by a 6-day trip – as we don’t like to hurry and LOVE to camp!  Our schedule would be:

• Day Zero – Travel day. Pick up permit, eat at Burger Barn, head to North Lake Campground and spend the night
• Day One – Piute Pass trailhead – over Piute Pass – down through Humphreys Basin to Hutchinson Meadow
• Day Two – Hutchinson Meadow – down Piute Creek to the JMT junction – down along the San Joaquin River to the Goddard Canyon Bridge Junction
• Day Three – Goddard Canyon Bridge Junction – Up to Evolution Valley – then into Evolution Basin and camp at Sapphire Lake
• Day Four – Sapphire Lake – up to Wanda Lake then summit Muir Pass – then down into Le Conte Canyon and camp at Little Pete Meadow
• Day Five – Little Pete Meadow up to Dusy Basin and camp at the highest tarns below Bishop Pass at 11,200 feet
• Day Six – Up over Bishop Pass and down to South Lake – Finished!

NOTE: We originally had planned this trip for July, but changed it to August due to the snow and water challenges that the 2017 winter had created.  We were glad we did!  Our conditions were near perfect!

Key Things to Bring

• Bug spray, head nets and Permethrin treated clothes – the mosquitos were still challenging in certain spots
• Microspikes – not really needed, but brought – my wife used them on Muir Pass and Bishop Pass
• Water shoes – we had no less than 14 wet crossings – we used Teva sandals with water socks
• Rain gear – we did have rain on three separate occasions – one night pretty hard with hail
• Map, compass and GPS – We used GaiaGPS for iPhone and the Tom Harrison “Bishop Pass North Lake South Lake Loop” map.

Bishop Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”93514″]

Note that this trail begins much higher than Bishop, and climbs. Compare with the forecast at 11,484′ on Mt Agassiz (near Bishop Pass) .

Originally hiked August 19-25, 2017.

Continue to Day One: Piute Pass Trailhead to Hutchinson Meadow

Day Two on the High Sierra Trail is an epic adventure that includes some of the most legendary sights and sounds of Sequoia National Park. It’s a solid 12-13 mile journey, but worth every single step.

HST Day 2 Details

Distance: 12.5 miles
Time: 6-7 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 3,654 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: July-Sept.

The HST drops down a set of switchbacks to a crazy bridge over Lone Pine Creek that gets you to the other side of the canyon. Below the bridge are the ruins of a previous bridge long since washed out via an avalanche.

Once across Lone Pine Creek, then you begin the long ascent over the Great Western Divide.

The first target is the Hamilton Lakes basin – a gorgeous lake surrounded by the mountains of the GWD. Crystal clear water and incredible scenery make this first ascent very worth it! On the way hike along several waterfalls and water crossings – some reasonably large. It’s good stream-crossing practice for more to come later.

Big Hamilton Lake is a great place for a quick rest – and even a swim if you’re so inclined. The campground there is quite popular – both for HSTs on a slower schedule or folks who are just doing an out-and-back from Crescent Meadow. Just simply a gorgeous alpine lake!

After a brief rest and photos, the time had come to ascend the Great Western Divide – our target, Precipice Lake followed by the Kaweah Gap at 10,700 feet. The next 2,000 vertical feet would be challenging and awesome! First, switchbacks up the Northern side of Hamilton Lake – very well constructed and very fair in their ascent degrees.

The first epic landmark on the ascent is the Hamilton Gorge – an incredibly steep gorge that runs down into Hamilton Lake. From the YouTube documentary on the HST overview, we were looking for the left over steel cable and cement pedestals that once held a crazy suspension bridge.

Today, a tunnel is blasted through solid rock and a thin single track leads you around the gorge. We were lucky that all the snow and ice had melted off just a few weeks before – as this gorge is impassable if the ice is still covering the trail–unless you are equipped for mountaineering.

Once across the gorge, the trail heads east and up, up, up…until you finally reach the epic Precipice Lake. This lake – made famous in Ansel Adams photos – sits at about 10,400 feet and creates an incredible two-way reflection.

On our day, a few clouds and remaining ice/snow didn’t give us the “Adams” view, but it was still gorgeous and a perfect lunch spot. And it was fun to navigate through some snow that covered parts of the trail – soft enough to not need microspikes but deep enough to warrant just a bit of caution while navigating. We even got to see some melting ice over the lake drop off and explode into the water!

After lunch and a break, we ascended the last 300 or so vertical feet to Kaweah Gap – the official pass over the Great Western Divide. That last bit of trail included quite a bit of water-on-trail runoff and another nice snow field. We even encountered three trail runners who had left Whitney Portal the night before and were already 50 miles in to a 40 hour HST East to West run – WOW!

When we reached the gap, it was truly one of the most epic views in all of Sequoia National Park – and perhaps the Sierras! The Big Arroyo opens up to this incredible view to the South – like something out of a grand Western Hollywood film. On the base of Mt. Stewart to the North is a plaque commemorating the first director of Sequoia National Park and the driving force behind the creation of the HST.

From Kaweah Gap the trail gently descends through the Big Arroyo for approximately 3 miles – one of the most beautiful descents of the entire trip. Nothing but gorgeous scenery, grass, rocks and trees in every direction – with an incredible stream and beautiful water features all the way down. There are several small crossings, but as you get close to the Big Arroyo campground, there was one large crossing – one where we simply couldn’t figure out a safe place to cross. It was deep, there were few rocks to step on, and the water was moving pretty rapidly. So, we headed down stream another 50-100 yards or so and found a much flatter, calmer flat rock area to cross – where by simply taking off our shoes and switching to sandals we could shuffle across safely and rejoin the trail on the other side.

From there, it was a short hike to Big Arroyo campground – a nice spot next to the river with a bear box, near an old ranger cabin that has been preserved as a historical landmark.

A northern wind dropped the temperature down to below freezing that night – so we got a bit of frost on the rain fly and our backpack drinking reservoirs froze up! But in the tent we were warm and toasty.

High Sierra Trail: Bearpaw Meadow to Big Arroyo Junction
Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Next up?

• Continue to Day 3 on the High Sierra Trail, hiking to Upper Funston Meadow.
• Go back to Day 1 on the High Sierra Trail.
• New to the High Sierra Trail? Get the big picture with our HST overview.
• Got questions about the High Sierra Trail? Join our HST discussion forum.

Day One on the High Sierra Trail we hiked 11.5 miles east-bound, from Crescent Meadow to Bearpaw. Starting at the giant forest, we followed the edge of the Middle Fork of the Kaweah River – a super deep canyon with stunning views to the south, west and east towards the Great Western Divide. This section of the High Sierra Trail only gains about 1,000 vertical feet from start to finish, there is actually about 1,700′ total vertical climbing as the trail climbs up and down over the 11+ miles.

HST Day 1 Details

Distance: 11.5 miles / 18.2 km
Time: 7.5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 1,692 ft / 516 m
Dogs: No
When to go: July-Sept.

There are several campground sites along the way to Bearpaw Meadow, including Mehrten Creek, Nine Mile Creek and Buck Creek. Each presents a water crossing, along with some smaller crossings. Rangers warn that some of these creek crossings may be hazardous early in the summer, but none were problematic for us in mid-July, and all were fun to navigate.

Our one and only bear sighting the entire trip came just 10 minutes into our trip – right off the side of the trail spotting a mother and two cubs. We were glad they were a safe distance from the trail!

About one mile in, you reach Eagle’s View, our first great view of the 7,000 foot deep canyon that is the Kaweah River’s middle fork and the Great Western Divide – our eastern ascent target for day two.

We lunched at Mehrten Creek – a beautiful rock formation with water and a wonderful rest spot halfway to Bearpaw Meadow.

After crossing the Buck Creek bridge, there is one final steep set of switchbacks to get up to the ridge where Bearpaw Meadow High Sierra Camp and Campground are located. They even have t-shirts that say “Bearpaw High Sierra Camp – The Last Mile” – and they aren’t kidding – it’s a slog at the end of a long day.

The campground is situated off the ridge from the high sierra camp, and has lots of campsites, several bear boxes, water spigots and fire rings. It’s not the most picturesque of campgrounds on the High Sierra Trail, but serviceable for our first night.

We were the first group into the campground that day, and met Ranger Matt there. He was super nice and even showed us the best camp spot. And there were plenty of local deer coming to visit throughout the evening and the following morning.

Be sure to walk up the hill and check out the Bearpaw High Sierra Camp, a $200-$300/night tent resort with fancy meals and a gorgeous deck overlooking the canyon and the Great Western Divide. Unfortunately by the time we rolled in (after setting our camp) they had sold all the backpacker beer and brownies – oh well!

High Sierra Trail: Crescent Meadow to Bearpaw Meadow
Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Next up?

• Continue to Day 2 on the High Sierra Trail, climbing over the Great Western Divide at Kaweah Gap and descending into Big Arroyo.
• New to the High Sierra Trail? Get the big picture with our HST overview.
• Got questions about the High Sierra Trail? Join our HST discussion forum.

Lesser known than the famous John Muir Trail, the High Sierra Trail (HST) is in many ways just as historically significant as it’s longer and more famous brother. In 1928, Sequoia National Park was expanded from the western section famous for the giant Sequoia Grove all the way to the Eastern Sierra and Mt. Whitney. At that point, park officials had to decide how to travel from West to East, as there were currently no trails or roads. The decision was made not to build roads, but instead to build a trail. This project – the High Sierra Trail – would be a grand five-year national project of incredible engineering and trail building…one of the last such projects ever.

It is incredibly well documented in a short video done by a retired Sequoia National Park Ranger:

If after watching this video, you don’t want to immediately go backpack this trail, watch it again!

Trail Details

Distance: 72.2 miles
Time: 6-8 days
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 13,303 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: July-Sept

Why hike the High Sierra Trail? It’s a great way to get views like these!

Expansive Big Arroyo

High Alpine Meadow

Guitar Lake

Climbing Mt Whitney, the highest mountain in the contiguous 48 states.

High Sierra Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Here’s what the route looks like. You can click and zoom or expand the map to full-screen to see additional detail. You can download the GPX file for use with your GPS app.

Getting to the Trail

As with all Sierra thru-hikes, the first challenge is figuring out transportation. With the High Sierra Trail, you start at Crescent Meadow on the Western edge of Sequoia National Park in the giant tree grove. You finish at Whitney Portal. The two locations are a six-hour drive apart.

Here was our solution:

• Rent a car from Enterprise – one-way rental – to Visalia, CA airport.
• Take the Sequoia Shuttle ($15 for two people/one-way) to Sequoia National Park.
• Pickup our permits at the Lodgepole Visitor Center (open 7am to 3:30pm daily) and stay the night in Lodgepole Campground. Reservations are recommended and campsites run $22 per night.
• Take the free in-park shuttle the next morning from Lodgepole to the trailhead at Crescent Meadow (the first shuttle leaves at 8 a.m.).
• Use Eastern Sierra Shuttle to take us from Whitney Portal to Lone Pine hotel upon completion.
• Get our son to come pick us up in Lone Pine and drive us home to Los Angeles (the KEY element).

We departed on a Friday, spending the night in Lodgepole. On Saturday morning at approximately 9 a.m.we began our 72-mile adventure to Mt. Whitney across the entire width of Sequoia National Park.

Eight Day Itinerary for the High Sierra Trail

The HST is the perfect length for a week-long trip with nine days (five weekdays and two weekends). Here is our itinerary:

Editor’s Note: Detailed photos, maps and narrative for each day will be published, one-per-day. As each day goes “live” the itinerary below will link to it. 

• Day 0 – Travel to Lodgepole, pick-up permit
• Day 1 – Crescent Meadow to Bearpaw Meadow
• Day 2 – Bearpaw Meadow to Big Arroyo Junction
• Day 3 – Big Arroyo to Upper Funston Meadow via Moraine Lake
• Day 4 – Upper Funston Meadow to Junction Meadow
• Day 5 – Junction Meadow to Crabtree
• Day 6 – Crabtree to Guitar Lake
• Day 7 – Guitar Lake to Trail Crest to Mt Whitney to Outpost Camp
• Day 8 – Outpost Camp to Whitney Portal

When to Hike the High Sierra Trail

The high passes on the High Sierra Trail hold snow sometimes even year round. In the spring, they can be practically impassable. Most HST trips are taken in July and August, but you’ll find smaller crowds in September after school starts.

Getting Permits for the HST

About 75% of the permits can be reserved in advance, with the remainder reserved for walk-in permits. You can check for permit availability here. Permits cost $10 plus $5 per person (so a permit for two people would cost $20). It’s important to remember that your permit reservation is not a permit. You’ll still need to pick it up at the Lodgepole Visitor Center either the day before you begin your hike (after 1:00 pm) or on the morning you begin your hike (before 10:00 am). To get a permit reservation, you will need to fax your application following these instructions.

High Sierra Trail Weather

Weather on the High Sierra Trail can be difficult to predict. If you’re hiking in the summer months, expect some cold nights and warm days. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in the Sierra Nevada, and you can even get a surprise snowstorm.

Your best bet is to check with the ranger before you pack for your trip for the latest forecast and conditions. For planning purposes, use Mountain Forecast. The high point on this trek is Mt. Whitney, so it’s a good reference point for the weather extremes.

Ready for More?

Next up: Day One on the High Sierra Trail.

Got questions about the High Sierra Trail? Join our HST discussion forum.

Photo credit: Sara Fry

The iconic Sierra mountains are one of the true treasures of California. Thousands of people hike and backpack in these rugged, beautiful mountains every year. The growing popularity of trails like the John Muir Trail and Pacific Crest Trail put a strain on a very narrow corridor through the Sierra.

The Sierra Mapping Project is a five-year effort to accurately track and report current trail conditions for all of the trails throughout the Sierra mountains. The brainchild of long-distance thru-hiker Sara “Bloodbank” Fry, this project will document the many forgotten and lesser used trails in the hope of encouraging hikers to explore all of the Sierra mountains — not just the popular (and sometimes congested) JMT/PCT corridor.

You can help support the project by making a pledge by Tuesday, June 16, 2015 here on Kickstarter.

What do you get out of it? The project will provide downloadable GPS tracks of every trail, along with elevation profiles, accurate mileage and reliable water sources. It’s going to take time to collect this data, but we can all benefit from the knowledge.

This project could open up new areas of the mountains to explore and enjoy. I hope you’ll join SoCalHiker in supporting the Sierra Mapping Project.

Day 22 on the John Muir Trail…

Technically, this day begins at the end of Day 21. We went to bed early last night, sleeping lightly for a few hours and waking to our alarm at 11:30 PM. We ate Clif Bars and packed up our sleeping gear and tent. Donning our headlamps, we made one final check to make sure nothing was left behind. We headed up the John Muir Trail towards the tallest peak in the contiguous 48 states — Mount Whitney — 14,505 feet above sea level.

John Muir Trail Day 22

Distance: 16 miles
Cumulative Distance: 222.23 miles
Total Ascent: 4,201 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 60,597 ft
Harrison Map Sheet 1

Our headlamps did a great job of illuminating our steps. As we climbed higher, we could see other headlamps down below, bobbing up and down as other hikers started out in the wee hours of the morning. Apparently we weren’t the only ones who thought to get a very early start on Whitney.

We hiked along, our heads down and our eyes on the trail for several hours. Our pace was slow, but steady. Suddenly, I practically walked into the Whitney Trail Crest junction sign!

We were shocked! The climb went by quickly. From here we thought we would wait for sunrise, then hike the last 2 miles to the summit in daylight.

We dropped our backpacks and pulled out our sleeping bags. It was cold up at the crest, especially since we had stopped hiking. We sat there and tried to sleep, but it wasn’t going to happen. Soon, we had hikers who were coming up from Whitney Portal marching past us in the darkness. We decided if they could handle the trail in the dark, we could too. Besides, we weren’t going to sleep.

So we packed our sleeping bags and left our backpacks near the junction. We took a fanny pack and water, slack-packing to the summit. And along the way there, the sun rose.

Turning around, I captured this view looking west toward the sun-kissed mountain tops.

The trail was treacherous, but we took our time to be safe. By the time we reached the shelter on the summit, we no longer needed our headlamps at all. We headed for the true summit, and greeted a few other hikers who arrived just before us.

Our thru-hike on the John Muir Trail was complete! We hiked the entire JMT, from Yosemite to Whitney. We were standing on the summit of the tallest peak in the contiguous 48 states. We learned new things about ourselves and each other, and expanded our understanding of what we were capable of.

Our mission was complete. But our journey was not yet over. We still had to hike 10.6 miles down to Whitney Portal, where we had parked our Xterra three weeks earlier.

Summit Register?

I have one regret about our summit of Mt. Whitney… we forgot to sign the summit register! We had seen the aluminum “desk” next to the shelter, but I didn’t realize that the top opened. And so we never signed the register. Doh!

In our original itinerary, we had planned to stop at Trail Camp below Mt. Whitney, but before Whitney Portal. This would leave an easy six mile hike out on the final day. But we had opted to shave some miles off previous days, so to stick to our original exit schedule, we were hiking all the way out to Whitney Portal.

First, we headed back to the Whitney Trail Crest. Our packs were waiting for us, undisturbed by other hikers. In fact, a number of other backpackers had also left their packs here, since you have to come back this way in any case.

We hoisted our packs one more time and began the descent.

As we hiked down, we passed what seemed like a hundred people hiking up to Whitney. There were some solo hikers but most were in groups of 2, 3 or 4. Most of them carried day packs rather than backpacks. We wound our way down the infamous 99 switchbacks, including an icy patch with a handrail for safety. There was no snow on the trail though.

Looking back, it was hard to believe that we were “up there” just a few hours earlier. Wow.

Descending from Mt Whitney with a full backpack was challenging, even though we weren’t carrying much food at this point. We descended 6,300 feet over those last ten miles. It took a toll on our bodies. Our feet were swollen and sore. Our joints creaked and ached. But the thought of a cheeseburger and beer at the Whitney Portal Store kept  us moving.

Finally we could see the Whitney Portal parking area. We must be close. We placed bets on how long it would be before we were there. “30 minutes!” I announced confidently. I was wrong by about an hour.

That last stretch winds down along the longest, slowest switchbacks ever designed. There were times when I swore we were actually moving further away from our destination. Like a desert mirage, it tantalized us with promises of greasy food and cheap calories, but we never seemed to get any closer.

Finally we saw a sign of “civilization.” Ironically, it was a sign declaring (to those hiking in the upward direction) that they were now entering the John Muir Wilderness. But for us, it meant we were getting closer to civilization.

We made it to Whitney Portal. We ate that cheeseburger, and drank that cold beer. And it was good.

Trail Map: Guitar Lake to Mt Whitney to Whitney Portal

The John Muir Trail official ends on the summit of Mount Whitney, but we still had to hike down to Whitney Portal where our car was parked. This map details the route up to the top of Whitney, as well as down to Whitney Portal.

JMT Day 22 Photo Gallery

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Our thru-hike on the John Muir Trail is complete, but the story is not finished. Watch for details on gear, food and what we will do differently next time.

Originally hiked August 17, 2010.

Day 21 on the John Muir Trail…

Last night we camped in the shadow of Mt. Whitney. We woke up excited, knowing that we were so close to our goal. We had been hiking on the John Muir Trail for three weeks. We had come a long way from that first day in Yosemite. We met many challenges — both physical and mental. Now there was no question about whether we would finish the JMT — but when. 

John Muir Trail Day 21

Distance: 7.23 miles
Cumulative Distance: 206.23 miles
Total Ascent: 2,147 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 56,396 ft
Harrison Map Sheet 1

Guitar Lake sits at 11,500 feet on the west side of Mt. Whitney. Our hike today to the lake would be a relatively short seven miles, so who knows what we’ll do!

After breakfast, we broke camp and headed out. We had a bit of hiking up-and-down, roller coaster-style today. Up and over a ridge, then down to Wallace Creek.  Up and over another ridge, then down to Crabtree Meadows.

Wag Bag Distribution Center

Near the Crabtree Ranger station, we picked up a wag bag. This is a cleverly designed contraption that you poop into. That’s right, we would be required to carry any poop we created from here until the end of the trail.

Fortunately, we only had one more night on the trail.

From Crabtree, the JMT climbs steadily beside babbling Whitney Creek. We passed several smaller lakes, and stopped for lunch in a shady spot near the creek.

At this altitude, the trees were sparse. They clustered around ponds, leaving much of the trail exposed to the hot sun.

At about 3:30 PM, we reached Guitar Lake. We setup camp near the “guitar body” portion of the lake, by a cluster of large boulders that would provide a bit of shade later in the afternoon.

At this point, Joan agreed that hiking straight to the top of Mt. Whitney was not going to happen.

We set up the tent, filtered water, soaked our feet in the lake and rested. We ate an early dinner, and decided that we’d start hiking up Mt. Whitney at night. We cleaned up and packed up everything so we could easily break camp in the darkness. We set our alarms for 11:30 PM, then laid down to nap for a few hours before our final ascent.

A Plan is Hatched

The first time I hiked the John Muir Trail back in 1980, we started up Mt. Whitney at midnight. There was a full moon, and we wanted to get up in time to see the sunrise. Having done it once, I suggested we could give it a try this time. We wouldn’t have the sun beating down on us. We had headlamps. So we decided to give it a shot.

Trail Map: Wright Creek to Guitar Lake

JMT Day 21 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we summit Mount Whitney and complete the John Muir Trail!

Originally hiked on August 16, 2010.

Day 20 on the John Muir Trail…

At 13,200 feet above sea level, Forester Pass may not be the highest point on the John Muir Trail (that would be Mt. Whitney) but it is the high point of the Pacific Crest Trail.

John Muir Trail Day 20

Distance: 12 miles
Cumulative Distance: 199 miles
Total Ascent: 3,869 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 54,249 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 2 and 1

Our goal this morning was to reach Forester Pass before noon, and we got there just before 11:30am. The route up looks like piles of gravel with the occasional patch of snow and lake a the bottom of the slope, but there is a surprising amount of life flourishing in the high altitude.

The trail cuts across a steep slope of scree that is often covered in snow, making it even more treacherous. Keep your eyes on the trail. When you want to look around, stop and steady yourself first.

In our case, we had a few patches of snow, but their were plenty of boot prints leading the way and it wasn’t too bad.

When we reached Forester Pass, we celebrated! We took the requisite photos, ate a snack,  and communed with the marmots.

On the south side of Forester Pass, the John Muir Trail drops down a series of expertly engineered switchbacks in a narrow chasm, then winds around the steep sloping scree to the basin below.

Once in the basin, the trail continues downward on an easy grade to Tyndall Creek. There were patches of trees, and we were able to find a shady spot for lunch.

As we headed on, we passed a couple trail junctions, and our first sign announcing the distance remaining to the top of Mt. Whitney! It was thrilling to realize that we were actually going to complete the JMT! We could practically smell it. Oh wait, that was just us…

Although we had already hiked over Forester Pass, we weren’t finished climbing for the day. We had about another 600 feet of elevation gain up to Bighorn Plateau.

Are We There Yet?

There was no car to pull over, but this last stretch up and beyond the Bighorn Plateau seemed to never end. It was one of those points on the trail when you think to yourself, “How much further?!” To which the reply is typically, “Oh, about a mile… mile and a half.”

Prepare yourself. It’s always more than a mile and a half. Or at least, it feels that way.

Finally the trail dipped down into a valley and we reached Wright Creek. Tonight we would sleep in the shadow of Mt. Whitney.

Trail Map: Forester Pass, Bighorn Plateau and Wright Creek

JMT Day 20 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we head to Guitar Lake, just below Mt. Whitney.

Originally hiked on August 15, 2010.

Day 19 on the John Muir Trail…

We awoke early, determined to get a jump on Glen Pass (11, 970ft.). Last night we camped at 10,600ft. just above Upper Rae Lake and were looking forward to reaching the pass early before it got too warm.

John Muir Trail Day 19

Distance: 9 miles
Cumulative Distance: 187 miles
Total Ascent: 3,212 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 50,380 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 3 and 2

This morning I awoke before sunrise. Our camp was very close to the trail, and even in the darkness, there were hikers headed up toward the pass, their headlights bobbing up and down with each stride. That was not our definition of early. We called it sheer madness.

In all seriousness, there are some people who like to wake up, pack up and start hiking immediately to help warm their body. After they have hiked for one or two miles, they stop and cook breakfast. It works for them, and it maybe it would work for you.

Today we got up and were on the trail before the sun hit our campsite, and that was early enough for us.

Being above the tree line, we knew there would be lots of exposure, and it helped to get the pass out of the way early. And there was quite a crowd already at the top of Glen Pass.

We climbed about 1,500 feet in 1.5 miles. Not a bad warm-up. Looking north from Glen Pass, we were treated to a tremendous view of where we had been.

From Glen Pass, we headed south and down towards Vidette Meadows. Our goal was to camp at Upper Vidette Meadows, positioning us well for Forester Pass tomorrow.

As we descended, we saw more and more smoke in the air from a wildfire to the west. It was disconcerting for two reasons. First, we didn’t know how far away the fire was, or if it threatened any part of the John Muir Trail further south, posing danger to us and requiring a change of plans. Second, Joan suffers from asthma, and smoke didn’t help matters. We were concerned, but pressed forward.

Whenever we passed other hikers, we’d enquire about the wildfire and try to glean some knowledge about where it was, and whether it posed danger to us. Information is limited on the trail. There is no cell coverage. There is no Internet. But the reports we heard confirmed that the fire was far enough west that it posed no eminent threat.

We paused near the junction to Bullfrog Lake to refill our water bottles and eat lunch. It was good to be in the shade, and the mosquitos weren’t even too bad.

On our way down to Bubbs Creek, we ran into a couple who was section hiking the PCT. Last summer, they hiked the entire Oregon section. This year, they were tackling the section that more or less tracks along the JMT, though they started at the southern end of the Sierras and were headed north-bound. They were happily feasting on cheese and crackers, which they had rummaged from a bear box in Lower Vidette Meadows. “Look for it! There’s still some good stuff left in there…” they promised. Visions of a delectable backcountry smorgasbord danced in our heads as we headed down the trail.

One of the questions that I’m often asked about is how easy (or difficult) it is to follow the John Muir Trail. For the most part, the trail is very easy to follow and extremely well marked. However, not all junctions identify which direction the JMT follows, so you still need a good set of maps and basic navigation skills.

On this section of the JMT, there are an unusually high number of trail junctions. We made a point of sticking together and checking the map at each to ensure we were headed in the right direction. We didn’t want another Cloud’s Rest detour.

We made our way to Lower Vidette Meadows, and sure enough, we found the bear box with a cache of leftover foodstuffs. We were excited to rummage through this left-behind food. We salvaged some tea, some ramen and a few other goodies. There was cheese, but it looked very suspect. Not exactly the smorgasbord we imagined, but still a nice bonus.

Hiker Trash

There’s an old hiking joke that goes something like this…

“What’s the difference between a backpacker and a homeless person?” The answer? Goretex.

As we excitedly rummaged through days-old food left in a bear box, I realized were weren’t far off from “dumpster diving.” It’s all a matter of perspective.

We followed Bubbs Creek up the valley, climbing 1,300 feet in just over three miles. The trees were growing sparse when we found a great established campsite for the night.

Trail Map: Rae Lakes to Glen Pass to Upper Vidette Meadow

JMT Day 19 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we climb Forester Pass — over 13,000 feet high!

Originally hiked on August 14, 2010.

Day 13 on the John Muir Trail…

We slept not too far away from Muir Trail Ranch, with the headwaters of the San Joaquin providing our soundtrack for the night. Fortunately, our bear bag was unmolested. We broke camp and hiked about a quarter mile back to MTR to enjoy the promised breakfast (it was well worth it).

John Muir Trail Day 13

Distance: 10.8 miles
Cumulative Distance: 123.9 miles
Total Ascent: 4,036 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 33,471 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 7 and 6

Jeffrey and Hari took the purist approach, retracing our steps up the valley to the junction we left the JMT at yesterday. Joan and I opted for the easier trail along the valley bottom. Both trails met up at the 1.6 mile mark.

A bit further beyond that was the John Muir Trail Cabin. This wasn’t a cabin that Muir himself ever stayed in, but it was built in his honor.

Today we would hike into Kings Canyon National Park. This park easily rivals Yosemite in beauty, but is much more wild and unspoiled. We bid farewell to the John Muir Wilderness, and crossed this bridge into Kings Canyon.

The JMT follows along the South Fork of the San Joaquin River for over six miles, and the canyon becomes narrow, steep and rugged.

The trail winds through the canyon, climbing ever higher and crossing the fast-moving water on two more bridges. These bridges are amazing feats of engineering, especially given their remote location. And we were thankful they were there. The water ran high and fast, and I can’t imagine crossing any other way.

At mile 6.6, we crossed the third bridge for the day, and began the super steep switchbacks climbing up beside Evolution Creek. At the crest, you get a little breather and then, a boots-off creek crossing. This was thigh-high water, and while it doesn’t look treacherous, it is flowing fast and has a strong pull.

On the other side of Evolution Creek, we decided to stop for dinner. We fired up the stove and enjoyed some warm food, then cleaned up and hiked on to McClure Meadow.

Dinner: In Camp or on the Trail?

One of the questions thru-hikers grapple with is where to cook and eat. Because the John Muir Trail runs through bear country, it is recommended that you don’t cook or eat where you sleep, as the scents from the food will attract bears.

Some thru-hikers take this very seriously, stopping to cook and eat, then cleaning up, packing up and hiking the final one or two miles to camp, as we did tonight.

For us, we would typically cook, eat and clean well away from our sleeping area, but within eye’s view. We found it easier than stopping and starting again.

Jeffrey, Joan and I finished the final 2-1/2 miles and rolled into camp right at sundown. Hari had already set up camp with another JMT thru-hiker named Brian. We warmed up around a campfire sipping hot chocolate and sharing our tales from the trail.

Trail Map: Muir Trail Ranch to McClure Meadow

JMT Day 13 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we head over Muir Pass!

Originally hiked on August 8, 2010.

Day Five on the John Muir Trail…

Yesterday’s hike up Lyell Canyon was relatively easy. Today, we would hit several big milestones. First, we would hike over our first serious pass. At 11,056 ft, Donohue Pass was still covered with snow, and the altitude was as high as we had been on the JMT so far. We would also pass the 50 mile mark. And we would bid adieu to Yosemite… and hello to the Ansel Adams Wilderness in Inyo National Forest.

John Muir Trail Day 5

Distance: 9.7 miles
Cumulative Distance: 50.5 miles
Total Ascent: 2,200 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 14,770 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 12 and 11

One of the great things about hiking the John Muir Trail is that you are never very far from a water source. There are only a few stretches where we really needed to carry more than a liter of water with us. If we needed more water, we would stop and filter more.

We crossed the bridge over Lyell Fork and headed out.

Some of the creek crossings were a little sketchy. You either hiked through the icy cold water, or carefully stepped one foot in front of the other, placing them on the slippery stones and doing your best not to fall in. We were glad we had our trekking poles. We made a point to always have three points of contact with the ground. 

At some of the lakes, there are feint trails that run around the perimeter. It’s easy to mistake these for “the” trail, but we knew we would be climbing and stuck to our uphill trajectory.

There were numerous rivulets that crossed the trail, as well as a wide range of wildflowers.

Soon we were high above the canyon, and ready to ascend the final incline to the pass. We stopped to look back on the canyon we just climbed out of.

We passed one last lake and started up a granite trail that was fully exposed. Well above the tree line, we were nearing the crest of Donohue Pass.

We reached the pass and took an early (and well deserved lunch break). Our trail mascot Yoda was proud.

From Donohue Pass, we split in two groups. Joan and I hiked on to our camp for the night at Thousand Island Lake. Jeffrey and Hari decided to tackle rocky Donohue Peak. There is no trail up Donohue Peak; it’s mainly boulder scrambling (no technical climbing required). Even so, it’s a slog up and back down. They were rewarded for their efforts with some amazing views.

From Donohue Pass, there is a long downhill trudge. The sun was warm and our spirits were high. And we still had about six miles to go. The scenery changed as we once again descended below the tree line and crossed Rush Creek.

Watch the trail signs carefully. Several trails converge in this area, and you don’t want to take the wrong trail. From the creek, we climbed towards Island Pass. This pass is easy to miss, because it’s really a wide, broad saddle dotted with little ponds. The distinctive feature? Jaw-dropping views of the majestic Minarets, their jagged peaks rising dramatically above you to the west.

Finally, we came into view of Thousand Island Lake.

This is a huge lake. No, it doesn’t really have a thousand islands. Yes, it does have a LOT of islands–more than I care to count. And it sits directly below the spectacular Banner Peak.

The trail winds down to the outlet of Thousand Island Lake. There is no camping around the outlet, so we had to follow the northern shore for about half a mile before we found a suitable campsite. We settled in, refilled our water bottles and pitched our tent. Jeffrey and Hari strolled in just in time for dinner — tired but proud to have bagged Donohue Peak.

Repelling Mosquitos: A Natural Approach

The mosquitos were pretty bad at Thousand Island Lake. I chose not to use repellent. My approach? Long pants and long sleeves. When I needed, I wore a mosquito net over my head. Once at camp, I could get into my tent until sundown. Most of the mosquitos disappear when the sun sets and the temperature dips, so I could cook and eat my dinner in peace.

Thousand Island Lake is one of my favorite places. It’s beauty always inspires me. And it’s a popular destination that many people hike to out of Mammoth Lakes. For these reasons, it’s crowded and attracts bears. We were all using bear canisters and didn’t have any problems, but we did hear some noise from other campsites that had to chase off bears.

The map below shows the general route we took, and the gallery below includes additional photos in chronological order.

Upper Lyell Canyon to Donohue Pass, Island Pass and Thousand Island Lake

JMT Day 5 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we hike to Red’s Meadow.

Originally hiked on July 31, 2010.

Day Four on the John Muir Trail

I was looking forward to this day. The mileage was a little easier, and the first nine miles were up the almost imperceptible incline of Lyell Canyon. Getting in later than expected on Day Three meant hanging around until the Tuolumne Meadows Post Office opened so we could pick up our resupply package.

While we waited, we feasted on tasty breakfast burritos at the café. The post office doesn’t open until 9am, and then we had to divvy up the foodstuffs, squeeze everything into our bear canisters and reload our packs. As we were repacking, we met some fellow JMT thru-hikers also picking up their resupply. I’ve found that camaraderie amongst backcountry hikers is effortless.  As John Muir said, “One touch of Nature makes the whole world kin.” You feel that kinship among just about everyone you meet on the trail. I think Muir was on to something.

John Muir Trail Day 4

Distance: 10.25 miles
Cumulative Distance: 40.75 miles
Total Ascent: 1,475 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 12,570 ft
Harrison Map Sheet 12
GPX file

The trail up Lyell Canyon was heavenly. Well, the first nine miles or so.

First off, the trail is soft, smooth and straight. It’s as close to level as you’ll see on the JMT. And it parallels the sublime waters of the Lyell Fork creek. The waters of Lyell Fork were so clear and so stunning, it was difficult to keep out of the water. So we jumped in! 

At our lunch break, Joan and I (Jeffrey and Hari were up ahead, as routine) found a secluded boulder outcrop next to a wide, deep section of the creek. We kicked our boots off and stretched out on the boulders like lizards in the sun. When it got a little too warm, we jumped into the invigorating water, washing away the trail grime and sweat. It was heaven on earth.

We lazily lounged about for two hours, enjoying the perfect setting, and then decided we’d better hit the trail again if we were going to make camp before nightfall.

Enjoying the Journey

We found that by the end of the day, we were so exhausted, that after cleaning up from dinner, we just wanted to climb into our tent to sleep. I loved our long lunches when we lounged, soaked our tired feet in the water, and took some time to enjoy the moment.

Our elevation gain for the day was modest by JMT standards (about 1,475 ft). But most of it was in the last mile. The trail is made up of granite steps better suited to horses than humans. This makes sense because both the JMT and the PCT were designed specifically to support horses, explaining in part the giant-sized steps we climbed to our camp for the night.

We made camp at Upper Lyell Canyon, just before the wooden bridge. There are a number of great camp sites here, and they are spread out far enough that although we had seen other hikers there, we weren’t aware of their presence when we were at our camp site.

Lyell Fork runs rapid here, so filtering water required extra caution. We didn’t want to fall in or lose any equipment.

And at an elevation of 9,670 ft, we were nearing the tree line. Tomorrow we’d be heading over snow-covered Donohue Pass and saying good-bye to Yosemite.

Tuolumne Meadows to Upper Lyell Canyon

This map details our journey on Day 4 of the JMT, from Tuolumne Meadows to Upper Lyell Canyon. You’ll notice that the trail follows a nice, gentle slope for the first nine miles, then ends with a strenuous climb. Phew!

JMT Day 4 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we hike over Donohue and Island Pass and down to Thousand Island Lake. 

Originally hiked on July 30, 2010. 

I’ve thru-hiked the JMT twice. The first time was in 1980. I was young and fit, and loved every mile. It was the experience of a lifetime. Three decades later — almost to the day — I hiked the JMT once again. I was older, wiser, and while no longer the strapping lad I once was, I still completed the trail three days faster. Another experience of a lifetime.

Sharing the JMT experience is a challenge. When you return from the mountain, you want to share this experience, but words alone cannot express the grandeur. Photos can delight, but they don’t capture the majesty of the soaring crags or the ache in your bones after descending from Silver Pass. How do you share the magnificence of sunrise over Thousand Island Lake? How do you convey the real and perceived highs and lows as you climb over Forester Pass? How can you describe the physical and mental challenges, and the sheer triumphant joy of hiking the John Muir Trail? This is the challenge a team of creative artists took on.

The Muir Project

In October of 2011, I learned about The Muir Project — a group of multi-media artists who undertook their own epic journey on the John Muir Trail. They hiked the JMT that summer — one year after my most recent trip, and had just released the initial trailer. The trailer was amazing, and really brought the memories of my own JMT hikes alive.

Rick, Jen, Jason and the rest of the team took the project to Kickstarter to raise the funding they needed to complete their labor of love. Fellow hikers, already inspired by the trailer, jumped on board and helped them exceed their goal by over $7k, giving them the resources they needed to convert hundreds of hours of video, thousands of photos, music, paintings and memories into something that might actually inspire people to consider hiking the John Muir Trail themselves.

Nearly two years later, the film is finally making its premier at the Hollywood Chinese Theater as part of the Dances with Films independent film festival. And on National Trails Day, no less.

Mile…Mile and a Half

The MMAAH team began their JMT trek in July 2011–a year notable for a 200% snowpack. What does this mean? Twice as much snow as usual. Higher water crossings. A challenging trail, made even more challenging. Which at least in part, led to the film’s name. As in, “How much further ’til we reach camp today?” “Oh, about a mile…mile and a half.”

The film follows the team on their southbound hike, from Yosemite Valley, up and over 10 passes, over 80,000 feet of elevation change, resupply points, meeting friends — both old and new — on the trail, and ultimately reaching the highest point in the contiguous United States — 14,505 feet tall Mt. Whitney.

“People are amazing. That was the biggest impression this experience left on me.” – Hiroshi, a Japanese solo hiker who joined the team for the trek up Mt. Whitney

After both of my JMT hikes, I had a sense of sharing this experience with those who hiked these trails before me, and those who will hike them after. I longed to share the experience.  Mile…Mile and a Half gives you a very real sense of what it’s like to hike the John Muir Trail. The film expresses the beauty, the challenge, and the joy of this beautiful trail better than anything short of hiking it yourself.

Mile…Mile and a Half is beautifully filmed, scored and edited. It features fantastic titles illustrated by trail journal extraordinaire Kolby “Condor” Kirk. MMAAH is not a dramatization. It’s the real deal–real people doing something amazing, and sharing the journey.  As their story unfolds, you feel like you’re there with them. It grips you, and inspires you.

“You don’t need to go to the Himalayas. You don’t need to climb Mt. Everest or go to the deepest jungles of Africa to find adventure. You can find it in your own backyard.” – Jason Fitzpatrick

You can probably tell, I love this film. I REALLY LOVE this film. Should you see it? Hell yeah! Mile…Mile and a Half is for anyone who loves the outdoors and the beauty of the mountains. It might even inspire you to lace up your boots and hike the JMT as well.

#JMT2015 anyone?

Kudos to Ric, Jason, Jen, Durand and the entire team who made this kick-ass film. Find out how you can see this amazing film at  TheMuirProject.com, and follow their latest on Facebook.

Mile…Mile and a Half
Running Time: 87 minutes
Premiere: June 1, 2013