Take a hike up Mount Elden and perch yourself atop Flagstaff. This route starts out on the Fatman’s Loop, then splits off to climb all the way to Elden Lookout standing at over 9,000 ft. From the top you are rewarded with sweeping views of O’Leary and the San Francisco Peaks.

Trail Details

Summit Elev.: 9,299′
Distance: 5.3 miles
Time: 3-4 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,398′
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Spring, Summer, Fall

Getting to the Mount Elden Trailhead

From downtown Flagstaff, head east on Route 66. About 4 miles from the center of town, continue straight onto US 89. Go just another mile and make a left into the parking lot for the Fatman’s Loop and Mt. Elden Lookout Trail. There’s no sign for the turn, but it’s your first left turn after the McDonalds and Safeway.

The trailhead has a good size parking lot, but it can get crowded. There is no running water or toilet at the trailhead, so plan accordingly.

Hiking Mount Elden with Fatman’s Loop

The trailhead is at the northwest corner of the parking lot. There is an information kiosk with a map of all the trails, some interesting history on the area, and a hiking register where it’s a good idea to sign in. The trail starts with an easy uphill grade, and after just a quarter mile you will get to your first intersection. Stay left, following the arrow for Elden Lookout. This gets you going clockwise on the Fatman’s Loop.

In another quarter mile you reach your second intersection, this time with the Pipeline Trail. Go straight through this three-way intersection, continuing to follow the arrow for Elden Lookout.

This stretch of trail is where you’re reminded you aren’t quite out of the desert. There are yucca and prickly pear mixed in with the typical pine trees of Flagstaff. The path becomes a little steeper around the 0.5 mile mark, and at the 0.8 mile mark you come to your next intersection. This is the turnoff from the Fatman’s Loop onto the trail that takes you up to the top. Turn left here, and prepare for the real climbing to begin!

The next half mile or so of trail makes six relatively long switchbacks, tightens up for a quicker back and forth, then stops messing about altogether and goes straight up the ridge. Fortunately this is also where the views begin to open up, so any huff-puff breaks are made exponentially more pleasant.

As you continue to climb the tighter switchbacks return, and around the 1.5 mile mark you encounter the steepest stretch of trail. After a quarter mile or so, the incline eases off a bit and the path traverses right until you gain a ridge around the 2 mile mark and at 8,700’ elevation. Just 600’ more to climb!

Continue following the trail as it switchbacks across the ridge, then traverses left to reach the saddle around the 2.3 mile mark. Here is where the trail intersects with the Sunset Trail, and climbs the final ridge to the peak.

Turn left at the intersection and continue following the trail up the ridge to the Elden Lookout. Through here you can really appreciate how devastating the 1977 Radio Fire was to the area. But between all the old tree carcasses, the beautiful aspens are taking over.

There is quite a bit of antenna and tower action going on at the summit, but the views are still amazing! You have Flagstaff below you to the southwest, O’Leary Peak to the northeast, and the impressive San Francisco Peaks to the north!

Once you’ve collected your spectacular photos in every direction, return down to the Fatman’s Loop intersection. Here you must decide if you’ve had enough for the day, or if you think you can handle a bonus half mile and some fresh scenery. To cut it slightly shorter, go right and follow the path you took up from the parking lot.

To make the hike a little longer, go left and continue following signs for the Fatman’s Loop until you return to where you joined the loop on your way up. Just after the trail for the KOA, you will turn left to get back to the parking lot.

Mount Elden Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Mount Elden Resources

• Forest Service page for the Elden Lookout Trail #4
• Forest Service page for Fatman’s Loop Trail #25

Arizona Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge – Summer Edition

This hike is part of the Arizona Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge – Summer Edition. This self-paced hiking challenge includes six hikes all easily reached from the Flagstaff/Sedona area. They are a great way to explore the area, train for bigger adventures, and you’ll be doing good, with a portion of the net proceeds going to support Big City Mountaineers.

Registration for the summer challenge runs between April 1 and September 15.  Be sure to check out the winter challenge, too!

Rose Peak. The name evokes thoughts of gentle beauty. But this Rose is guarded not by thorns, but by a relentless series of climbs and descents. In total, nearly 20 miles for the round trip, and 5,000 vertical feet. This is one tough hike.

Trail Details

Distance: 19.5 miles
Time: 7-10 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 5,000 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Year-round

Getting to the Trailhead

From Livermore, head south on North Livermore Avenue. This becomes Tesla Road outside of Livermore. Turn right at Mines Road, then continue straight onto Del Valle Road, following it all the way to the park entrance. There is a vehicle entry fee, and (if camping overnight) daily campground fee.

We camped overnight at Del Valle, and started on the Vallecitos Trail. Here’s the location of our trailhead on Google Maps. If you’re hiking this as a day hike, park near the Rocky Ridge Visitor Center and start on the Sailor Camp Trail.

You’ll also need an Ohlone Wilderness Regional Trail Permit for each person in your party. They must possess and carry the permit, which actually doubles as a detailed map and is good for one year. You can get a permit at the Del Valle Regional Park, but your best bet is to order it in advance online. Backpacking permits are not available at Del Valle Regional Park.

Hiking to Rose Peak via Del Valle

We hiked from the Vallecitos Trail near the family campground, but the Sailor Camp Trail near the Rocky Ridge Visitor Center meets up at the boundary of the Ohlone Wilderness.

The trail starts out with a gradual climb along a shady ravine.

At 0.8 miles, you reach the junction with the Sailor Camp Trail and the check-in board for the Ohlone Trail. Check the information here for the latest warnings and bulletins, and sign the registry before continuing.

From here, the double-track trail climbs steeply. Trekking poles are highly recommended. 

Pass through Gate RK4. As with all gates you encounter in the wilderness, be sure to close them behind you.

The first water source is marked by trail marker #39. As with most of the water sources on this trail, they require a detour to the spring, and water must still be filtered or treated before drinking.

This trail signpost is typical throughout the park. They are well marked and numbered, making cross-referencing on your Ohlone Wilderness permit (map) a breeze.

At about 2.3 miles you pass through a saddle and begin the first big descent into Williams Gulch. At the bottom, a season creek gurgles and cascades over moss-covered rocks. It’s a good place to collect and get ready for another big climb.

After climbing 1.8 miles up, you encounter an interesting rock outcrop. If you look closely, you’ll find a plaque identifying the point as Schlieper Rock. And you’re not done schlepping uphill quite yet.

At the 5.2 mile mark you reach the ridgeline. From here the climb tapers off for a bit, with gently rolling hills replacing the relentless uphill grind.

At about 7.5 miles, the trail turns right at marker #32 begins another descent. Skirting La Costa Creek and climbing another ridge, the south San Francisco Bay comes into view in the hazy distance.

At marker #31, the trail turns left and descends to Indian Creek. We refilled our water here, filtering it with a Katadyn BeFree water filtration bottle.

After Indian Creek, we had one last climb. At trail marker #29, we beared right toward Maggies Half Acre Camp – our destination for the night.

Maggies Half Acre sits on a bench just north and below Rose Peak. There are several campsites, a pit toilet and spring-fed water source (again, filter before drinking).

In the morning, we broke camp before dawn and hiked west to trail junction #28, then turned back east and up to Rose Peak. We made some coffee and enjoyed the sunrise from the summit.

Fully-caffeinated and ready to head home, we followed the trail east back to trail marker #29, rejoining the trail we came in on the day before. From here it was just a matter of retracing our steps back to Del Valle.

Our fresh legs carried us all the way to Williams Gulch, where we took our only break for the day and refilled our water one last time.

The climb out of the gulch felt much easier and shorter than we expected, and from the ridge, it was mostly downhill the remainder of the way.

When Del Valle Regional Park came into view, we knew we’d be on our way home soon.

We saw only a few other people on the trail on our weekday trip. The quiet and the solitude was peaceful. The terrain is deceptively gentle looking, and surprisingly challenging.

Without a doubt, this was the toughest hike in the NorCal Six-Pack of Peaks.

Rose Peak via Del Valle Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Ohlone Regional Wilderness Tips & Resources

• This route begins in the Del Valle Regional Park. There is an entrance fee of $6 per vehicle, and additional fees for overnight camping in Del Valle. Park hours vary by season, so check the website for the latest information.
• If you are day hiking, you will park in the Rocky Ridge Visitor Center parking area and begin on the Sailor Camp Trail. If you camp overnight at Del Valle at the family campground (as we did) you begin at the Vallecitos Trail. Both trails converge at the junction with the Ohlone Trail at the wilderness boundary. Be sure to sign-in on the register at the boundary.
• You must order a permit and carry it on this hike. It’s only $4 bucks at the time of writing, it’s good for a year, and includes a detailed map, trail descriptions, rules and other useful data. Each person in the party needs their own permit. This is probably the best idea I’ve seen for a permit. As long as you’re carrying a permit, you’ve got a map and all the details on the park.
• Overnight camping is at designated campsites only, and requires a reservation. Call 1-888-EBPARKS or 1-888-327-2757, press option 2 to reserve a campsite.
• Visit the official Ohlone Regional Wilderness website for the latest info on trail conditions, water availability, and regulations.
• Cell coverage via AT&T was limited on this hike. The best signal was near Rose Peak, where there is a line of sight with the south bay.
• As always, carry the ten essentials and practice the seven Leave No Trace principles.

Rose Peak is part of the NorCal Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. Join today!

Ohlone Regional Wilderness Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”94551″]

Originally hiked on January 29 & 30, 2018 with Jason Fitzpatrick.

Mount Sizer is one of the highest points in Henry W. Coe State Park. While the peak is really just the high point along Blue Ridge, getting there and back via this loop requires four climbs totaling well over 3,500 vertical feet, including one of the steepest trails in the Bay Area.

Trail Details

Summit: 3,215′
Distance: 14.9 miles
Time: 6-8 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 3,684 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Year-round

Getting to the Trailhead

Henry Coe State Park is the largest in the California State Park system, and there are a number of entrances to the park. This hike begins and ends at the headquarters, located at 9100 E Dunne Ave, Morgan Hill, CA 95037 – also generally the closest entrance to the Bay Area.

From Highway 101, take East Dunne Avenue all the way to the end. Get turn-by-turn directions via Google Maps here. I got there just as the first rays of sunlight kissed the grassy hills.

The headquarters has a number of ranch buildings. Follow the drive past the buildings to the parking area.

Hiking the Mount Sizer Loop

Hike a short distance back Dunne Road past the visitor center and turn right on Manzanita Point Road. Almost immediately you’ll see a trail marker for the Monument Trail on your left. Take it. This single track trail climbs the first ridge and joins Hobbs Road after 0.7 miles.

Follow Hobbs Road on it’s steep descent to Little Coyote Creek, then take the single track Frog Lake Trail.

My goal was to follow single-track trails when given the option, so while you can take Hobbs Road, we crossed the dam at Frog Lake following the Frog Lake Trail up to Middle Ridge.

About half way up toward Middle Ridge, you’ll reach Pahajuello Spring. You can refill your water here, but be sure to filter or treat before drinking.

Once at the top of Middle Ridge, you get a great view of Blue Ridge and Mount Sizer.

Turn left, following the Middle Ridge Trail for a short distance until it reconnects with Hobbs Road, then follow the road down to Coyote Creek. There are several campsites as you near the creek that would make good overnight options.

Hobbs Road crosses the Middle Fork of Coyote Creek. You can usually rock hop across this pretty easily.

After the crossing Hobbs Road climbs up to the top of Blue Ridge. This section of trail climbs 1,500 feet in just over a mile, and is considered to be the steepest trail in the Bay Area.

Thankfully there’s a bench waiting for you at the top to give you a rest.

From here, follow the Blue Ridge Trail as it gentle rolls along. You have great views on either side of the ridge as you follow the dirt road. There are a few points where other roads veer off down the hill, but stick to the ridgeline until you approach Mount Sizer.

At Mount Sizer, you’ll take a spur trail to the north then follow a faint social trail to the high point. Mount Sizer isn’t a peak as much as a knoll at this point, but it is the highest point around and you’ve already done a fair amount of climbing to get here. And there’s still more climbing to come!

After taking the requisite photos at Mt Sizer, head back to the Blue Ridge Road and continue along the ridge in the same, south-easterly direction. This section is easy and the views fill the sky.

At about 9.5 miles, turn right onto the Jackass Trail. This single-track is the shortest route to Poverty Flat Road. The trail is faint at times, but you travel through varied terrain and see first hand some of the scars of the Lick Fire.

Once you join Poverty Flat Road, turn right (west) and follow it downhill. At about 11.25 miles, you’ll reach a short, social trail on the left that climbs tiny Jackass Peak. It’s a short side trip that only adds a couple hundred yards, but takes you up a named peak. Or you might feel like they named it after you.

Continuing down Poverty Flat Road, you come across Coyote Creek and a number of campsites, complete with pit toilet.

This section was quite beautiful, even before the sycamore trees sprouted their spring color.

The crossing of Coyote Creek was made easy by well-placed rocks.  Coyote Creek is also the last place to refill your water on this loop–a good idea before the final climb back to the park headquarters.

Thankfully, much of this climb is at least partially shaded, providing some relief on a sunny afternoon.

This climb reaches Manzanita Point Road. At this dirt road, there are several options to get back to the park headquarters. I chose to follow the main road for about a mile before peeling off to the left on a single track trail for the final .75 mile back. The other routes are equally viable, but this was the most direct.

I knew I was getting close to the trailhead as I began to encounter more people. I hiked all the way to Mount Sizer without seeing another soul. On my way down Poverty Flats, I counted one mountain biker and two backpackers. As I hit the final mile back to the trailhead, I saw several groups of people meandering through the meadows and trees.

Finally, the old ranch buildings at the headquarters appeared ahead.

This trail was a great loop, and I highly recommend taking the clockwise direction (as I did). There are long exposed sections, so get an early start and avoid the really hot days of summer. This trail wouldn’t be nearly as enjoyable in rain, and I’ve heard that the creek crossings can even become quite dangerous during storms. It can be hiked in a day. I drove down from Berkeley, hiked the loop and drove home in the same day. This would also make a great backpacking trip, with a number of first-come, first-serve campsites and reliable water sources.

Mount Sizer Loop Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Mount Sizer Tips & Resources

• There is a day use fee. On the weekday I hiked this, I had to put my payment in the provided envelope and leave it in the “iron ranger” at the visitor center. When the Visitor Center is open, you can make payment there.
• I had cell reception on most of the ridgeline trails (using AT&T). But as this is fairly remote, your mileage may vary.
• Naturally, you’ll want to carry the Ten Essentials.
• I first learned about this hike from Rebecca’s trip report on Mount Sizer from Calipidder, although my GPS data logged fewer miles and elevation gain.
• Check the official park website for up-to-date information on fees, permits and events.
• This trail is part of the NorCal Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. Join today!

Henry Coe State Park Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”95037″]

Originally hiked on February 7, 2018.

Black Crater is a “broken” cinder cone with a glacier-carved valley and quite possible the best views of the Three Sisters.  The 7,251′ summit was once home to a fire lookout, and when you hike to the summit, you’ll understand why. You can see for miles up and down the Cascade Range.

Trail Details

Summit: 7,251′
Distance: 7.3 miles
Time: 3-4 hours
Difficulty: Moderate/Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,260 ft
Dogs: Yes, on leash
When to go: Mid-July to late October
Download GPX

Getting to the Trailhead

The trailhead for Black Crater is about 12 miles west of Sisters on the McKenzie Highway 242 (three miles east of the pass). The trailhead parking is well-marked, and there is only one trail heading from the lot.

You can get driving directions to the Black Crater Trailhead via Google Maps here.

Hiking to the Summit of Black Crater

The trail begins at the southwest corner of the gravel parking lot. Take a moment to review the trailhead information board for the latest on rules for this area.

The first half of this route is well-forested, with hemlock, fir and pine. You will see signs of the origin of Black Crater as you pass volcanic debris. To the north, watch for glimpses through the trees of Mts. Washington and Jefferson.

At 2.3 miles you crest a small ridge and enter the glacier-carved valley for about another 0.5 miles. You’ll see open meadows and plentiful lupine.

At 2.8 miles, the trail begins climbing reaching the eastern flank and switchbacking through sparse forest. We encountered several patches of snow in mid-July, but nothing that required technical gear. Depending on snow conditions and the time of year, this may require traction or even snowshoes.

Wildflowers and butterflies line the eastern flank of Black Butte in July. It was quite beautiful.

The views north and east are stunning, and on a clear day, you can see across much of Central Oregon.

The final push to the top is a gentle, winding trail across a barren cinder plateau. On one side, the twisted limbs of scraggly whitebark pines provide a wind break; on the other, the crater cliffs fall away steeply.

The very top requires minor scrambling to reach.

One odd note: the very highest point buzzing with a thick swarm of big flies. A fellow hiker said these are always here, and neither of us could figure out why. If you know the answer, let us know in the comments below!

The summit provides great views of the Three Sisters, Mounts Washington, Jefferson and (if it’s really clear) even Mt. Hood. There used to be a fire lookout on the flat area near the summit, but only a few foundation remnants remain.

[vr url=”https://socalhiker.net//wp-content/uploads/2017/10/UUXO1929.jpg” view=360]

To finish the hike, retrace your steps back down the same trail.

Black Crater Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Black Crater Tips & Resources

• A $5 Northwest Forest Pass or National Parks annual pass is required for trailhead parking.
• Bring water (I’d recommend a minimum of one liter), sun protection, and the other ten essentials. There are no creeks or springs along this trail.

Sisters Weather Forecast

Sisters is the nearest town and provides a rule of thumb for the weather. Note that the summit of Black Crater is over 4,000′ higher than Sisters, so the weather can be 40 degrees colder.

[forecast width=”100%” location=”97730″]

Originally hiked with Joan on July 15, 2017.

South Sister is the third tallest mountain in Oregon. At 10,363′ it’s the highest of the Three Sisters, and also the youngest, geologically-speaking. The cauldron holds the highest lake in Oregon–when it’s not frozen and buried in snow. It’s home to eight glaciers, including Prouty Glacier, the largest in Oregon. And it’s a great non-technical ascent that caps the Central Oregon Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge.

Trail Details

Summit: 10,363′
Distance: 12 miles
Time: 6-9 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 4,820 ft
Dogs: Yes, on leash
When to go: Late July to early October
Download GPX

Getting to the Trailhead

The South Sister Climber’s Trail begins at Devil’s Lake. A $5 Northwest Forest Pass is required, but if you have a National Parks annual pass and a hang tag, that will suffice. The parking lot fills up early, and overflow parking is available along the roadside. The trailhead is about 30 miles west of Bend on Cascade Lakes Highway. You’ll pass the Mount Bachelor Ski Resort, then Sparks Lake, finally turning left into the Devil’s Lake Campground turnoff.

You can get driving directions to the South Sister Climber’s Trailhead via Google Maps here.

Hiking to the Summit of South Sister

Follow the trail, exercising caution when crossing back over Cascade Lakes Highway. When you reach the information board, you’ll need to stop to fill out a free, self-issue wilderness permit. The original goes in the box; keep the copy with you on your hike.

The trail begins gently, but steepens as it switchbacks up the canyon to the plateau.

Just over two miles up the trail, you reach a junction with the Moraine Lake Trail and the beginning of a long, rolling section of easy hiking across a plateau. This is where Dan and I looked ahead at South Sister looming in the the distance and thought “we’re going up there?” Indeed, we were.

The Climber’s Trail skirts the edge of the plateau, providing a great view of Moraine Lake from above. There are campsites down there, and it would make an excellent place to camp on an overnight trip up South Sister.

At about 3.5 miles, the plateau gives way to the mountain once again, and climbing begins in earnest. In mid-July, we hit numerous patches of snow, but being a popular route, all had good tread. We were able to traverse them safely without traction or gear other than our trekking poles.

At 5.7 miles, the trail reaches the western edge of the largest glacier in Oregon, the Prouty Glacier. Over 1 square kilometer in area, it was an impressive sight.

At this point, there is less than a mile to the crater rim, yet the going is slow. The “trail” spiders into a series of multiple routes, scurrying up steep volcanic scree that takes half a step back for each step forward. The trail is fully exposed. We were thankful to be hiking in the cool air of the early morning, but we could tell that it was heating up. The sun was intense.

Finally at about six miles, we reached the crater rim. The summit itself is on the far north side of the crater, but it’s an easy hike with a short section of boulder scrambling.

Some chose to forge straight across the snow-filled cauldron, but the snow conditions were questionable and we made better time on solid ground.

Numerous groups of hikers were resting near the summit. The high point is atop a cluster of boulders.

The views on this crystal-clear day were incredible, with a stunning vista of Middle and North Sister and well beyond.

Heading back along the crater rim, the views of Broken Top and Mount Bachelor were amazing, too.

Making our way back was much easier. At times, multiple footpaths through snowfields required us to check our bearings to choose the most efficient and direct route to the actual trail, but it was pretty straightforward.

South Sister Trail Map & Elevation Profile

South Sister Tips & Resources

• A free wilderness permit is required and can be self-issued at the information board about 100 yards into the trail. A $5 Northwest Forest Pass or National Parks annual pass is required for trailhead parking.
• Bring plenty of water (I’d recommend a minimum of three liters), sun protection, and the other ten essentials. There may be water available along the trail depending on snow melt, but be prepared to treat.
• Carry food to keep your body fueled. This is a grueling trek, both in mileage and vertical climb.

South Sister Weather Forecast

Here’s the forecast for the summit of South Sister.

The Central Oregon Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

South Sister is part of the Central Oregon Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge, a self-paced hiking challenge that takes you up six, iconic peaks–each one a bit higher and tougher.

It’s a challenge in itself, or great training for still bigger adventures. Learn more and sign-up here.

Originally hiked with Daniel on July 15, 2017.

Paulina Peak is the highest point on Newberry Crater, one of the largest shield volcanos in North America. The 7,985 feet tall summit sits on the edge of a 21 mile-long crater rim. The geology of the area is fascinating. Well east of the Cascades, Paulina Peak offers views that extend from Mount Shasta to Mount Adams. You’ll see not one but two “crater lakes”, an obsidian lava flow and the steep, craggy crater walls. If you’re so inclined, you can soak in a natural hot spring or visit an 80-foot waterfall afterwards.

Trail Details

Summit: 7,985′
Distance: 4.3 miles
Time: 2-3 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 1,393 ft
Dogs: Yes, on leash
When to go: Mid-June to early October
Download GPX

Getting to the Trailhead

The Paulina Peak Trailhead is 23 miles south of Bend, Oregon on Highway 97, then 13 miles east on Paulina Lake Road. Turn south (right) on Forest Road 2100 500 and you’ll find the trailhead parking about 3/4 mile on the right. A $5 Northwest Forest Pass is required for entry to Newberry National Volcanic Monument, though they also take the National Park annual pass.

You can get driving directions to the Paulina Peak Trailhead via Google Maps here.

Hiking to the Summit of Paulina Peak

The trail is well-engineered, beginning with a gentle, persistent climb through shady forest. The trail to Paulina Peak is part of the longer Crater Rim Trail that’s popular with mountain bikers, though this segment is off-limits to bikes.

The trail actually follows the crater rim pretty closely as you’ll see on the topo map below, but the first half mile looks much like a typical forest trail, with a few glimpses of the lake.

At about 1.1 miles in, the view opens up and you see Paulina Peak towering above as well as the steep-sloped caldera of the Newberry Crater.

Here the forest becomes more sparse, dotted with old snags of Whitebark Pine that are over 500 years old. The trail returns to the rim of the crater briefly.

At about the two mile mark, watch closely for the true trail, which veers away from the rim. There is a false trail that hugs a steep section along the rim that should be avoided to prevent erosion. A fall here could be fatal.

At the summit, you are rewarded with tremendous view over the crater, the Cascades to the west and a good portion of Central Oregon. You can even catch a good view of the Big Obsidian Flow.

There’s also a parking lot and a restroom. Oh well.

When you’ve finished soaking in the views, return to the trailhead via the same trail you ascended.

Paulina Peak Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Paulina Peak Tips & Resources

• At the time of writing, no permits were required. A $5 Northwest Forest Pass or National Parks annual pass is required for entrance to the park.
• Bring plenty of water, sun protection, and the other ten essentials.

Newberry National Volcanic Monument Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”97739″]

The Central Oregon Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

Paulina Peak is part of the Central Oregon Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge, a self-paced hiking challenge that takes you up six, iconic peaks–each one a bit higher and tougher.

It’s a challenge in itself, or great training for still bigger adventures. Learn more and sign-up here.

Originally hiked with Joan on July 14, 2017.

Tumalo Mountain is a shield volcano that lies just northeast of Mount Bachelor.  This trail begins at the Dutchman Flat Sno-Park, and climbs steadily up the west flank of the cinder cone. Tumalo gives you great views of not only Mount Bachelor, but also Broken Top and South Sister.

Trail Details

Summit: 7,779′
Distance: 4.2 miles
Time: 2-3 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 1,312 ft
Dogs: Yes, on leash
When to go: Mid-July to mid-October
Download GPX

Getting to the Trailhead

This part is easy; head to the Dutchman Flat Sno-Park lot. If you’re heading west on Cascade Lakes Highway (trust me, you are), it will be on your right about 1/4 mile past the Mount Bachelor Sunrise Lodge entrance. You can get complete turn-by-turn driving directions to the Dutchman Sno-Park via Google Maps here.

Hiking to the Summit of Tumalo Mountain

The trail begins at the north end of the parking lot near the restroom. It immediately crosses a mountain bike trail and proceeds to wind up and around Tumalo Mountain.

Initially the trail views are obscured by the forest, but turn around once in a while to capture a glimpse of Mount Bachelor to the west.

As you climb, the forest thins and wildflowers like lupine abound.

The dirt trail winds among the gnarled ghosts of whitebark pines, giving way to reddish cinder.

The “summit” is relatively flat, sloping upward to the highpoint on the far north end. Follow the rock-lined path that loops around the top of Tumalo Mountain and avoid trampling the fragile crust and the ecosystem it supports.

From the top of Tumalo Mountain, you have a great view of Mount Bachelor to the west.

To the north, South Sister, Middle Sister and Broken Top give you plenty to soak in.

You will also find a large cairn near the high-point.

[vr url=https://socalhiker.net//wp-content/uploads/2017/09/GUER0023-1.jpg view=360]

Tumalo Mountain Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Tumalo Mountain Tips & Resources

• At the time of writing, no permits were required.
• Bring plenty of water, sun protection, and the other ten essentials.
• Tumalo Mountain is also a popular destination for snow-shoeing in the winter.
• Check out William Sullivan’s 100 Hikes / Travel Guide Central Oregon Cascades (affiliate link) for more on the geology and flora of Tumalo Mountain.

Bend Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”97701″]

The Central Oregon Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

Tumalo Mountain is part of the Central Oregon Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge, a self-paced hiking challenge that takes you up six, iconic peaks–each one a bit higher and tougher.

It’s a challenge in itself, or great training for still bigger adventures. Learn more and sign-up here.

Originally hiked with Joan on July 21, 2017.

Black Butte is an extinct stratovolcano that sits east of the Cascades, rising 3,076′ above the surrounding plain.  This symmetrical cone-shaped butte is home to an active fire lookout tower, as well as a historic cupola that you can easily imagine must have been the coolest summer digs ever, with spectacular views of Mt Washington, The Sisters and beyond.

Trail Details

Summit: 6,436′
Distance: 4.4 miles
Time: 2-3 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 1,443 ft
Dogs: Yes, on leash
When to go: Mid-June to early October
Download GPX

Getting to the Trailhead

There are two options for hiking Black Butte. The Upper Trailhead starts roughly half-way up the butte. It requires several miles of driving on a bumpy gravel road that narrows to one lane in sections, and results in the shorter hike described here. The road does not require high clearance or 4WD in dry conditions. The trailhead has plenty of parking and pit toilets. There is no water available. The Lower Trailhead begins just off Highway 20, and doubles the length and vertical gain. The route you choose is up to you.

You can get driving directions to the Upper Black Butte Trailhead via Google Maps here.

Hiking to the Summit of Black Butte

The trail is well-engineered, beginning with a gentle, persistent climb through shady forest.

Many of the trees are covered in moss, giving the forest a moody feeling that’s a perfect start for our morning hike.

About a mile up the trail, the forest clears and the wildflowers abound. This area on the south side of the butte is shady if you hit it early enough, but fully exposed as the sun rises higher in the sky.

At the 2 mile mark, the trail wraps around the east end of the butte, traveling through the remnants of a wildfire as you make the final ascent to the summit.

The top of Black Butte is broad, with an active fire lookout tower on the east end, and a historic cupola on the west end. There used to be a cabin just west and directly below the cupola, but it was removed. You can still see the foundation.

On a clear day, you can see up and down the Cascade Range, and east over much of Central Oregon.

[vr url=https://socalhiker.net//wp-content/uploads/2017/09/AEON6497.jpg view=360]

Retrace your steps to return to the trailhead.

Black Butte Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Black Butte Tips & Resources

• At the top, please stay on the marked trails to avoid damaging the fragile ecosystem.
• At the time of writing, no permits were required, but a Northwest Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead May 1 to September 30. You can purchase a pass at the trailhead with $5 cash. If you have a hang tag with an annual National Parks pass, that will also work.
• Bring plenty of water, sun protection, and the other ten essentials.
• Check out William Sullivan’s 100 Hikes / Travel Guide Central Oregon Cascades (affiliate link) for more on the history and flora on Black Butte.
• Want more of a challenge? Start at Camp Sherman for double the mileage and the vertical climb!

Sisters Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”97730″]

The Central Oregon Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

Black Butte is part of the Central Oregon Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge, a self-paced hiking challenge that takes you up six, iconic peaks–each one a bit higher and tougher.

It’s a challenge in itself, or great training for still bigger adventures. Learn more and sign-up here.

Originally hiked with Joan and Dan on July 14, 2017.  

Mount Bierstadt is considered one of the most accessible 14ers in Colorado, nearby Denver and well maintained, but that doesn’t mean it’s a stroll in the park. You’ll climb over 2,700′ over the course of just over three miles, including a boulder scramble up the final stretch to the peak.

Trail Details

Summit: 14,060′
Distance: 7 miles
Time: 4-4.5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,776 ft
Dogs: Yes, on leash
When to go: Mid-June to early October
Download GPX

Getting to the Trailhead

The trail begins at Guanella Pass, about an hour from Denver and 11.5 miles south of Georgetown. There is a no-fee parking lot as well as off-street parking. There are pit toilets at the trailhead parking, but people were waiting 30-40 minutes in line to use them. And most of the trail is completely exposed with no privy privacy. You’ve been warned.

Get driving directions to the Guanella Pass Trailhead via Google Maps.

Hiking to the Summit of Mount Bierstadt

The trail starts with a gentle warm-up, as you pass Deadman’s Lake and descend to Scott Gomer Creek. Keep your eyes peeled for moose and other wildlife.

There is no way to cross the creek without getting wet. We hiked about 30 yards upstream to a more shallow section, and the ice-cold water still came up to our knees. Most people will take their hiking shoes off for the crossing.

From here, the trail climbs steadily. About two miles in you traverse a rocky bench where you might be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of a mountain goat.

Above the bench, the trail makes a bee-line to the saddle to the southwest side of Mount Bierstadt. It’s straight-forward hiking.

From the saddle, the final 1/4 mile to the summit requires following rock cairns up the steep talus- and boulder-strewn slope. There is no well-defined path through this ever changing landscape of rock, but when in doubt, head up.

The summit rewards you with spectacular views of Mount Evans and the sawtooth ridge that connects it to Bierstadt, as well as Grays Peak and Torrey Peak to the west. There is room at the top to break for lunch, an summit benchmark and a register to sign.

To return, retrace your steps. Take care to properly orient yourself as you descend to the saddle.

Mount Bierstadt Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Mount Bierstadt Tips & Resources

• At the time of writing, no permits were required.
• If possible, avoid hiking this on weekends or holidays when it can get quite crowded. For the same reason, please stay on the trail and follow Leave No Trace principles.
• This trail has spectacular wildflowers.
• Be prepared for cold air and windy conditions.
• Bring plenty of water, sun protection, and the other ten essentials. This hike is entirely above the tree-line.
• Keep an eye on the weather forecast, and plan to summit by noon. Afternoon lightning storms are a very real risk.

Idaho Springs Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”80452″]

The Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

Mount Bierstadt is part of the Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge, a self-paced hiking challenge that takes you up six, iconic peaks–each one a bit higher and tougher.

It’s a challenge in itself, or great training for still bigger adventures. Learn more and sign-up here.

Originally hiked on July 15, 2017.

At 14,270′, Grays Peak is one of only two fourteeners that actually sits on the Continental Divide. The ninth-highest mountain in Colorado has a well-defined trail to the summit and its proximity to the slightly lower Torreys Peak (14,267′) make this a popular mountain destination, especially on summer weekends, so start your hike early. We started at 3am.

Trail Details

Summit: 14,270′
Distance: 8.6 miles
Time: 5-7 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,939 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Late-June to early October
Download GPX

Getting to the Trailhead

The trailhead to Grays Peak and Torrys Peak is about an hour from Denver, and just over 10 miles from Georgetown off Interstate 70. Take exit 221 from I-70 west and follow Stevens Gulch Road. The road is a rough, gravel road that travels three miles to the trailhead. While there were plenty of sedans at the trailhead, I recommend a high clearance vehicle and, in wet conditions, 4WD.

Another option is to park at the beginning of Stevens Gulch Road and hike in to the trailhead, though this adds a total of six miles to the trip. Get turn-by-turn directions to the Stephens Gulch Trailhead via Google Maps.

Hiking to the Summit of Grays Peak

Early starts are always advisable, especially on popular 14ers like Grays Peak. You’ll get parking and you will summit before noon to avoid afternoon thunderstorms. We hit the trail at 3am, hiking by headlamp.

It was a clear sky, and the Milky Way was visible to the naked eye (but sadly, not my iPhone). The trail up the valley is clearly marked and easy to follow, even by headlamp. You will likely see other flickering headlamps bobbing up and down the trail in the distance.

The first three miles of the trail head straight up the valley with only a few switchbacks. When you reach the end of the cirque, the grade gets steeper but well-engineered switchbacks keep the climb steady and manageable. We hit patches of snow and ice in early July, easily manageable without traction devices.

The real payoff for the Alpine start? The sunrise views. 

At 3.5 miles you reach the junction with the trail from the saddle. This is used for the return from Torrys Peak. Bear left at this junction, and continue following the switchbacks and occasional cairns to the summit.

The summit of Grays Peak is surrounded by a small stone wind shelter. The views? Epic.

[vr url=https://socalhiker.net//wp-content/uploads/2017/08/USNN3845.jpg view=360]

The return route is simple. Just retrace your steps.  Keep an eye out for mountain goats on the way. Can you find the mountain goat we saw on our return in the photo below?

Bonus Peak

Many people combine a trip up Grays Peak with Torreys Peak (14,267′). From Grays Peak, there is a faint trail down the ridgeline to the saddle, and up the ridge to Torreys Peak. Coming down, return to the saddle and take the connector back to the main trail down to the trailhead.

Adding Torreys Peak to the trip adds 0.9 miles to the total distance and another 894′ in vertical gain.

Grays Peak Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Grays Peak Tips & Resources

• Check out Michael Restivo’s blog post for this hike. He joined me to help scout the trail.
• Grays Peak is a Colorado Mountain Club Classic. For more details, check out Colorado Summit Hikes for Everyone (affiliate link).
• At the time of writing, no permits were required.
• Bring plenty of water, sun protection, and the other ten essentials. This hike is entirely above the tree-line.
• Keep an eye on the weather forecast, and plan to summit by noon. Afternoon lightning storms are a very real risk.
• DID YOU KNOW? Grays Peak and Torreys Peak are the only fourteeners that lie directly on the Continental Divide.

Silver Plume Weather Forecast

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The Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

Grays Peak is part of the Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge, a self-paced hiking challenge that takes you up six, iconic peaks–each one a bit higher and tougher.

It’s a challenge in itself, or great training for still bigger adventures. Learn more and sign-up here.

Originally hiked on July 2, 2017. Thanks to Michael Restivo for joining me. 

Horseshoe Mountain scrapes the clouds at 13,898′ – just shy of being a 14er. Even so, the glacier carved cirque remains one of Colorado’s 100 tallest mountains, and the views are coveted by peak baggers. Just west of Fairplay, Horseshoe Mountain straddles Park and Lake County and is dotted with abandoned mines. Epic views, fascinating geology, and a rich mining history make this uncrowded hike a gem.

Trail Details

Summit: 13,898′
Distance: 6.4 miles
Time: 4-4.5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,254 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Mid-June to early October
Download GPX

Getting to the Trailhead

The adventure begins with an 11 mile drive on a bumpy gravel road called Fourmile Road (CO-9). Sedans should be fine, but you’ll need to allow additional time. When you pass the crumbling remains of the ghost town of Leavick, you are almost there. You can park on the side of the road, or take a left and follow the dirt road up another 0.5 mile, at which point you are at timberline. Get driving directions here.

Hiking to the Summit of Horseshoe Mountain

This trek began with a hike up a gravel Forest Service road. After about a 0.5 miles you pass the last of the cabins and the “road” becomes a rough double-track. You could drive to that point and park on the side of the road, but you may want a high clearance or 4WD vehicle.

Continue onward and upward.

One mile in, the namesake cirque of Horseshoe Mountain comes into view. Keep following the trail as it winds upward.

As you near the base of the cirque, you’ll see the headwaters of Fourmile Creek–Leavick Tarn.

Pick your way up the myriad of trails, aiming towards the saddle north of the cirque. Along the way, you’ll see the remains of many abandoned mines. Though it may be tempting, I advise against exploring these unstable and potentially dangerous structures.

At 2.7 miles, you reach the saddle which begins at 13,110 feet. From the saddle, follow the ridge-line toward the south.

In late June, a foot path was easy to follow towards the summit, with just a few patches of snow to traverse.

The summit of Horseshoe Mountain is marked by a small mound of rocks. Keep heading south until you reach it.

The views from the summit are phenomenal.

[vr url=https://socalhiker.net//wp-content/uploads/2017/08/MEPQ4319.jpg view=360]

The wind on the ridge is powerful and cold. Be prepared to layer up.

Retrace your steps back to your vehicle, roughly 6.5 miles roundtrip.

Horseshoe Mountain Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Horseshoe Mountain Tips & Resources

• Horseshoe Mountain is a Colorado Mountain Club Classic. For more details, check out Colorado Summit Hikes for Everyone (affiliate link).
• At the time of writing, no permits were required.
• Bring plenty of water, sun protection, and the other ten essentials. This hike is entirely above the tree-line.
• Keep an eye on the weather forecast, and plan to summit by noon. Afternoon lightning storms are a very real risk.

Fairplay Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”80440″]

The Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

Birthday Peak is part of the Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge, a self-paced hiking challenge that takes you up six, iconic peaks–each one a bit higher and tougher.

It’s a challenge in itself, or great training for still bigger adventures. Learn more and sign-up here.

Originally hiked on June 30, 2017.

Birthday Peak is in the 12er family. At 12,730 feet, it sees less foot traffic than its taller cousins, which means you’ll have more solitude but still have epic views of the surrounding mountains in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness. This hike requires some additional navigation skills and includes a fun boulder scramble to the summit. If you’re lucky, you might enjoy the company of a mountain goat or two.

Trail Details

Summit: 12,730′
Distance: 10.3 miles
Time: 5-6 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,827 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Mid-June to early October
Download GPX

Getting to the Trailhead

This hike begins at the North Cottonwood Creek Trailhead, about 8.5 miles west of the rustic town of Buena Vista. Much of the road is gravel and dirt, but easily passable in a sedan during normal summer conditions. Get turn-by-turn driving directions using Google Maps. Parking is free and no permit is required.

Hiking to Birthday Peak

There is only one trail from the trailhead, and it begins with a gentle climb that parallels and occasionally crosses Cottonwood Creek, heading towards Kroenke Lake and Browns Pass.

At 2.7 miles in, an improvised log crossing of Horn Fork Creek was the sole challenge along the Kroenke Lake Trail. There was still a lot of snow melt, so the water was running strong and I was grateful to have brought my trekking poles.

At about the 4 mile mark, I reached the unnamed creek that led up towards Birthday Peak.

Rather than follow the Kroenke Trail as it continues across this tributary and continues alongside Cottonwood Creek, we tu, ned right to follow this unnamed creek up to the cirque below Birthday Peak. Some guide books describe the trail here as “intermittent”, but there was hardly a trace in late June. This off-trail section requires good map reading skills, but as long as you follow the little creek, you will do pretty well. Having the route and maps downloaded on GaiaGPS helped tremendously.

Climbing above the tree-line, the creek grew smaller and smaller, replaced by the occasional snow field.

Soon the saddle to the south of Birthday Peak was in clear view. There were some footpaths through the snow and rock that made provided a good target as I aimed for that saddle.

At the top of the saddle, straddling the Continental Divide, looking back on what I had just climbed.

From the saddle, make your way north along the ridge to Birthday Peak. The final 0.25 miles required boulder scrambling to reach the summit. It looks more intimidating than it really is. Take your time and test each rock before putting your full weight on it.

The summit of Birthday Peak itself has a grassy knoll spotted with wildflowers. The summit register is protected by a small rock cairn.

The views from Birthday Peak are sublime.

Heading back down was easier, and I knew where I had to aim. Picking your route is much simpler when you have your GPS track to follow, and can see the area from above.

Once you reconnect with the Kroenke Lake Trail, follow it downhill back to the trailhead.

Alternate Route

A longer, but easier route to navigate that some people prefer is to follow the Kroenke Lake Trail all the way to Browns Pass. From there, veer north and pick your way along the ridge-line, eventually reaching Birthday Peak. This adds some mileage but eliminates any bushwhacking.

Birthday Peak Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Birthday Peak Tips & Resources

• Birthday Peak is a Colorado Mountain Club Classic. For more details, check out Colorado Summit Hikes for Everyone (affiliate link).
• At the time of writing, no permits were required.
• Bring plenty of water and sun protection.
• Dogs are allowed, on leash.
• After the hike, grab lunch in downtown Buena Vista and stop in at The Trailhead–a great local outdoor store.

Buena Vista Weather Forecast

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The Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

Birthday Peak is part of the Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge, a self-paced hiking challenge that takes you up six, iconic peaks–each one a bit higher and tougher.

It’s a challenge in itself, or great training for still bigger adventures. Learn more and sign-up here.

Originally hiked on June 29, 2017.

Yes, Rocky Mountain is an actual mountain. Located in Manitou Springs, Colorado, this 9,250′ peak is often overshadowed by the trail that climbs it: the famous Manitou Incline. This route forms a loop that ascends the incline, but then continues climbing to the little-traveled summit of Rocky Mountain before descending via the gentler grade of the Barr Trail.

Trail Details

Summit: 9,250′
Distance: 6 miles
Time: 3-4 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,483 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Late-April to Late November
Download GPX

Getting to the Trailhead

You have two options to reach the summit of Rocky Mountain: the short-but-steep Manitou Incline, or the longer, gentler Barr Trail. This guide describes a loop that takes you up Manitou Incline and back down the Barr Trail, but you could easily modify this to go out-and-back via the Barr Trail. The two trailheads are only about 100 yards apart, so the parking will be basically the same. You can get turn-by-turn driving directions to the Incline trailhead on Google Maps, and here is the Barr Trailhead.

Speaking of parking… it’s a problem. Both the Incline and the Barr trails are popular, plus the Pikes Peak Cog Railway starts in the same area. If you find parking, you will pay through the nose for it (imagine $10/hour). I recommend parking in downtown Manitou Springs and walking up Ruxton Avenue to the trailhead. It adds about 0.8 miles each way, but I paid just $10 for about 5-6 hours of parking. And it’s a nice walk.

Hiking to Rocky Mountain

There are two routes up Rocky Mountain; the Manitou Incline and the Barr Trail. This guide describes the route up the incline, returning via the Barr Trail. You can modify this to go out-and-back via the Barr Trail if desired. Going down via the incline is not recommended. It’s bad for the knees and bad for traffic flow.

The Manitou Incline is an impressive sight. It’s a series of steps that goes quite literally straight up the mountain. It starts out with gentle steps, but steepens quickly.

At roughly the halfway point up the incline, there is a “bail-out” point where you take a break or cut over to the Barr Trail.

Looking down from here, it’s hard to believe you’re only half-way up Manitou Incline.

Shade is precious on this trail. There is some, but the steps are largely exposed, making an early morning start advisable in warm weather. Still, there are little nooks where you can duck off the steps and catch your breath in the shade.

In places, the trail goes from steep to ludicrous.

After a mile and 2,000 feet of vertical climb, you reach the top of the incline. Go ahead. Pose for that selfie, drink some water, and eat a snack. You may be done with the Incline, but you’ve still got more hiking to reach the summit.

There is a well established double-track trail that heads towards Rocky Mountain, although are no trail signs. Head uphill past the crumbling concrete foundations that remain from the old incline rail, and look for the wide trail bearing left and uphill.

At 1.5 miles, take a faint single-track trail up to the right.

Follow this as it winds up the mountain, aiming for the summit. There were a few downed trees to cross over, but nothing to difficult.

Finally, you’ll see the boulder-strewn summit of Rocky Mountain. The high point itself is atop a large boulder formation, easily identified by the wood beam anchored at the top. This used to be part of a ladder that climbed to the top, and which has decayed and fallen to bits that you can see nearby. Climbing to the top is not difficult.

To head down, retrace your steps down the single-track trail until you reach the wider double-track section. Here you’ll turn right, heading down and west to the junction with the Barr Trail. Turn left at the Barr Trail and follow it down the switchbacks to the trailhead, about three miles.

Manitou Incline to Rocky Mountain Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Rocky Mountain via Manitou Incline Tips & Resources

• Rocky Mountain is a Colorado Mountain Club Classic. For more details, check out Colorado Summit Hikes for Everyone (affiliate link).
• At the time of writing, no permits were required.
• Bring plenty of water and sun protection.
• Dogs are allowed, on leash.
• After the hike, grab lunch in Manitou Springs.

Rocky Mountain / Manitou Incline Weather Forecast

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The Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

Rocky Mountain is part of the Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge, a self-paced hiking challenge that takes you up six, iconic peaks–each one a bit higher and tougher.

It’s a challenge in itself, or great training for still bigger adventures. Learn more and sign-up here.

Originally hiked on June 28, 2017.

Bergen Peak in the Jefferson County Open Space is a short 30 minutes from Denver. At an elevation of 9,708′ it provides a good view of Mount Evans to the west, as well as a good portion of the front range.

Trail Details

Summit: 9,708′
Distance: 9.6 miles
Time: 3-4 hours
Difficulty: Moderately Strenuous
Elevation gain: 1,890 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Mid-April to Late November
Download GPX

Getting to the Trailhead

The trail begins at the Elk Meadow Park trailhead on Stage Coach Boulevard, just north of the town of Evergreen (map). Most of the trail is within the Jefferson County Open Space, but a portion crosses into neighboring Bergen Peak Wildlife Area, where hunting is allowed in season. There is a restroom a short distance from the parking lot, but no other facilities on this trail. Bring your own water.

Hiking to Bergen Peak

The trail begins at the north end of the parking lot. At about 0.3 miles, take a left at the junction to follow the Meadow View Trail.

After another 0.6 miles, bear left again to take the Bergen Peak Trail. This climbs close to the ridge line before veering north.

Bear left again at the final trail junction with the Too Long Trail and the final mile to the summit.

You can take the same route back, or if you want to extend the hike, take the Too Long Trail back down toward the meadow and back to the beginning.

Bergen Peak Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Bergen Peak Tips & Resources

• Bergen Peak is a Colorado Mountain Club Classic. For more details, check out Colorado Summit Hikes for Everyone (affiliate link).
• Dogs are allowed, on leash. There’s also an off-leash dog park in a meadow south of the parking lot.
• The trail is shared with mountain bikes and equestrians. Hikers yield to horses and bikers yield to both, although it’s often more courteous to allow bikers to pass, especially when they’re climbing. We came across one couple biking and no horses on our hike.
• Get the latest on the trail at the official Elk Meadow Park website.
• After the hike, grab a burger at the Little Bear Saloon & Restaurant in Evergreen. The stage at this old-time western venue has hosted John Denver, Willie Nelson and many others.

Bergen Peak Weather Forecast

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The Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

Bergen Peak is part of the Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge, a self-paced hiking challenge that takes you up six, iconic peaks–each one a bit higher and tougher.

It’s a challenge in itself, or great training for still bigger adventures. Learn more and sign-up here.

Originally hiked on June 27, 2017.

Thanks to Bryan Martin of Big City Mountaineers for joining me on this hike. 

The Confluence Overlook Trail in the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park takes you away from the crowds and through a maze of slick-rock canyons to the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers.

Trail Details

Distance: 11 miles
Time: 5-6 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 50 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Spring or Fall

As it turns out, there are no established campsites along the Confluence Overlook Trail, and only one permit is issued per day for an overnight group. Because there are no established campsites, you are required to camp off-trail on slick-rock, where your impact is minimized. In other words, I would have the whole place to myself. I told her to sign me up!

Getting There

This route is in the North Needles area of the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park. The nearest town is Moab–about 75 miles away. You’ll stop at the Needles District Visitors Center to pickup your permit–$30 at the time. Follow the main road from the visitor’s center to it’s end and you’ll be at the trailhead.

The Trail

This out-and-back route requires careful attention to cairns for navigation. The “trail” often crosses slickrock, climbs up and down improbable ledges that require some scrambling, and can be tricky to follow when you happen to miss a cairn. You could easily get lost back here if you aren’t mindful. It is a quiet, special place.

The trailhead begins just past the Slickrock Loop Trail–at the end of the paved road–and runs 5.5 miles to the edge of the canyon where you have a spectacular view of the confluence.

A large sign provides an overview of the trail and marks the start of the trail, which begins by winding down into a small canyon, following cairn to cairn. No sooner do you reach the bottom than you begin climbing, quite literally. Sections of this trail require careful hand-over-foot scrambling that make it unsuitable for small children or anyone squeamish about heights.

Climbing up the opposite side of the first canyon, you reach this window-like view over Canyonlands.

The trail continues in this same manner, climbing down, across, and up out of one canyon, then another. Sometimes you’ll have a ladder to assist you. Cairns are carefully placed along the entire route to help keep you on track. In many places, the trail is difficult to see without them.

At the 1.5 mile mark, you enter a sandy wash that you follow for almost a mile before climbing again over slickrock.

Climbing up and down can be tricky. Some of the sections are steep with rock-hopping and light scrambling required. At the 4 mile mark, you reach a meadow. The trail crosses a jeep trail and continues through the meadow for a mile, reaching a junction with Cyclone Canyon Trail. Keep right to rejoin the jeep trail, which you follow to the left (west) for 1/2 mile. At the end of the jeep trail you’ll find a rare bit of shade, a pit toilet and a picnic table. And you’re almost to the overlook.

Climbing the final 1/2 mile to the overlook the terrain began to fall away and the views open up.

And finally, you find yourself standing 1,000 feet above the Colorado River.

[vr url=https://socalhiker.net//wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Confluence-Overlook-360.jpg view=360]

Soak in the views and the energy, and prepare for the trip back. In my case, I was going to be sleeping out here. I had to  backtrack across the jeep trail and at least another 1/2 mile past that. As there are no established campsites (thankfully!),  you find a flat space atop the slickrock where you are less likely to cause harm to the fragile environment. I ended up hiking about nine miles to a section of slickrock, then climbed up and off trail. The views extended for miles in every direction.

Pitching my tent, boiling water for dinner (vegetable korma from Good To-Go; highly recommended). Watching the sun set, and the stars pop out.

[vr url=https://socalhiker.net//wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Camp-on-Slickrock-360.jpg view=360]

I awoke before sunrise, and the sky was already light. It was cold, but not freezing, and I sat in my sleeping bag and watched the light show, purple and pink, yellow and blue hues changing by the minute.

I fired up the Jetboil and heated water for Starbucks Via and drank it all in.

The 2-mile hike back to the trailhead went quickly in the cooler morning air with a lighter pack (with less food and water).

This was a short trip as far as backpack trips go, and could have easily been hiked as a day hike. But experiencing this place in the afternoon, evening, stillness of night, and the first light of morning, was well worth the time.

Confluence Overlook Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Confluence Overlook Trail Tips

• This trail has no shade to speak of. Wear sun protection and be mindful of the weather forecast.
• There is no water on the trail. I carried four liters, for both drinking and cooking, with another two gallons in my car.

More Canyonlands National Park Resources

• I carried and recommend the National Geographic Illustrated Map for Canyonlands National Park
• Canyonlands National Park – official website

Canyonlands National Park Weather Forecast

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Smith Rock State Park in Central Oregon is a rock climber’s playground. The Crooked River carved through layers of hardened volcanic ash to create a landscape that reminded me of Utah. Hiking here is a treat, and the Misery Ridge Loop is the perfect way to tour Smith Rock. It takes you across the river and up to the panoramic views on Misery Ridge. You will get a front-seat view of the popular climbing areas like the Red Wall, Monkey Face, Morning Glory Wall, and the Phoenix Buttress. And you might even spy otters frolicking in the river.

Getting to Smith Rock State Park

Trail Details

Distance: 5.0 miles
Time: 2-3 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 850 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Spring-Fall

You enter the park at the top of the southeast bluff. There are restrooms, picnic tables and a climbing area for youngsters. And lots and lots of people, especially on the weekends.

Hiking the Misery Ridge Loop

After picking up a free map at the Welcome Center and hanging our pass on the rear view mirror of our rental car,  we followed the Rim Rock Trail north to the Canyon Trail. There are some great views of Smith Rock, so take your time and soak it in.

The Canyon Trail begins as a broad paved trail that allows stroller-pushing parents to access the bottom of the canyon, but we cut off at The Chute — a steeper, shorter section that heads pretty much straight down toward the Crooked River and the bridge crossing. Look across the river and you’ll see the switchbacks of the Misery Ridge Trail.

At the bottom of the canyon there is a information kiosk with a map of the area — which you don’t really need because you brought your free map from the Welcome Center, right? It also has all the typical warnings about carrying plenty of water, watching for rattlesnakes in hot weather, staying on the trail and leave no trace.

This is also a good place to ponder the phrase “misery loves company” because when you cross that bridge over the river, you’re going to soon find out.

Immediately across the bridge you’ll see the initial steps of the Misery Ridge Trail climbing in front of you. Take a deep breath and head up. Take a breather below the Red Wall, one of several popular climbing locations you will hike past on this loop, and watch the climbers defying gravity. In case you catch the climbing bug, Smith Rock is also a great place to learn climbing, with a number of schools leading courses here.

The Misery Ridge Trail climbs pretty relentlessly, but is well engineered with steps to help prevent erosion. Remember to stay on the established trails, and be sure to stop every so often and soak in the ever-changing views. Soon, you’ll well above the bluff you began on.

Looking back down on the trail you’ve climbed you get a sense of how steep it is, and why they call it Misery Ridge. The geology of the park is on full display, with multi-colored layers of compressed volcanic ash.

The top of the ridge makes a great place for a break. You’ve hiked about 2-1/2 miles and reached the high-point of this loop. And the views are pretty nice, too.

Looking west, you can see the snow-capped Cascade Mountains.

Follow the signs for the Misery Ridge Trail to the west. At about the 3.0 mile mark, you’ll see use trails that lead to an overlook of the icon Monkey Face column. Bear right at that junction to stay on the loop and begin the descent via a dozen steep switchbacks.

If you have trekking poles, this is a good time to use them. The loose gravel and sand can make this steep trail slippery.

When you reach the bottom of the canyon, bear left to follow the River Trail back to the bridge. It’s normally an easy, rolling trail, but with higher-than-usual water levels, parts of it were submerged. We had one section that involved a light scramble to follow the detour. It was fine for us, but could be tricky with young children or dogs.

As you get closer to the bridge, you’ll pass by several other popular climbing area and see more and more people on the trail. The River Trail is the only trail in the park where mountain bikes are also allowed, so be alert for bikers.

Take time to enjoy the river and watch for wildlife. Otters, geese and deer all call this area home.

Misery Ridge Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Smith Rock State Park Tips

• The best time for taking photos at this beautiful park will be early morning and the golden hour before sundown. Note that the park closes as sundown, so be respectful.
• Even though this is a popular park, I recommend bringing the 10 essentials. Weather conditions are unpredictable, and it’s better to be prepared.
• Please stay on all marked trails. This will help minimize erosion.
• A day use pass is $5, but if you think you might come back here, one-year and two-year passes are also available.

More Smith Rock State Park Resources

• There is no backpacking at Smith Rock State Park, but there is a walk-in tent camping area near the entrance
• Official Smith Rock State Park website
• Get directions via Google Maps

Smith Rock State Park Weather Forecast

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Photo credit: Jeff Hester. Originally hiked on March 26, 2017.

Marin County is truly unique. Nestled on a peninsula between the Pacific Ocean and the San Francisco Bay, these hills gave birth to mountain biking and were home to George Lucas’ magic-makers – all just a short drive from San Francisco over the iconic Golden Gate Bridge. Muir Woods and Mt Tamalpais get much of the spotlight, but there is a remarkable network of trails throughout this range, including this local favorite – the Coyote Ridge Loop in Tennessee Valley.

Trail Details

Distance: 5.2 miles
Time: 2.5 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 911 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Year-round

Getting to the Trailhead

You can take the Golden Gate transit bus from San Francisco to Tennessee Valley Road, but you’ll have to walk 1.7 miles down the road to get to the trailhead.

If you’re driving from San Francisco, you’ll cross the Golden Gate Bridge on Highway 101, exiting to Highway 1 at the Mill Valley/Stinson Beach exit. Turn left onto Tennessee Valley Road and follow it to the end. Get detailed directions on Google Maps.

At the trailhead there is a decent amount of parking and two pit toilets. At the time of writing, the parking area had several sections with large potholes, so drive with caution.

Hiking the Coyote Ridge Loop

This route begins at the northeast end of the trailhead parking.

The careful observer will note that the sign indicates that bikes, horses and dogs on leash are allowed on this trail. Unfortunately for dog hikers, the second half of the loop does not allow dogs. As an option, you could hike the first half as an out-and-back.

The trail quickly climbs up the ridge. You’ll gain over 500 feet in the first mile, after which you get a short breather before resuming a more gradual incline. Take a moment to soak in the views and you’ll see the San Francisco Bay begin to emerge to the east.

There are trail junctions around the 1.0 mile mark; all well-signed. Follow the signs for the Coyote Ridge Trail.

Just past the 2 mile mark you’ll see a short (10m) spur trail leading to the obvious high point on the loop: Coyote Ridge Overlook. There are a couple of benchmarks and wonderful 360-degree views.

[vr url=https://socalhiker.net//wp-content/uploads/2017/03/BHUR4775.jpg view=360]

Coyote Ridge Loop Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Back on the main trail, head south down Coyote Ridge. At 2.8 miles you reach a junction with a choice: take the shorter trail to the east and head straight back to Tennessee Valley or bear right and continue south to get even better ocean views. That’s right — go for the view.

When you reach the trail at the valley floor, you have the option of extending the hike with a 1.2 mile out-and-back (0.6 miles each way) to the beach. Throw a rock in the Pacific, then follow the valley trail back to the trailhead parking.

An interesting historical note: The valley is named for a steamer named the SS Tennessee which wrecked just off the coast in 1853. You can still see rusted parts of the steamer in the sand at the beach.

Tennessee Valley Hiking Tips

• Bring plenty of water and a map for navigation. The trails are well-signed, but with many junctions in can help to know where you are. I also tracked our progress using GaiaGPS.
• Cell coverage is spotty and/or non-existent in the valley and canyons.
• Watch for wildlife, particularly along the Tennessee Valley Trail to the beach. Deer, coyotes, bobcats and rabbits all call this place home.

More Tennessee Valley Resources

• Official Tennessee Valley NPS page
• Lunch afterwards? We headed to Joe’s Taco Lounge in Mill Valley.

Marin Headlands Weather Forecast

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Hiked on March 7, 2017. All photos from that date. Thanks to OutdoorsyMama for suggestion the trail!

Arches National Park in Utah attracts over one million visitors a year with it’s namesake geologic wonders. Most visitors head to the easily reached roadside arches and viewpoints. In contrast, the Devil’s Garden Loop is considered the only “hiker’s hike” in the park.

Trail Details

Distance: 7.2 miles
Time: 4-6 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 470 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Year-round
Download GPX

Getting There

Arches National Park is located just west of Moab (get directions via Google Maps) on the easter edge of Utah. The park has no food or lodging, but both are found in nearby Moab. Moab is about a ten hour drive from Los Angeles and it’s a gateway to both Arches and nearby Canyonlands National Park. There is one main road into Arches National Park, and the Devil’s Garden trailhead is all the way at the end of that road. It takes about 30 minutes to reach from the park entrance, if you can manage the trip without stopping to gawk at the beautiful rock formations. It took me closer to 90 minutes, and it was worth every stop.

When to Go

This area gets hot in the summer and cold in the winter. Spring and fall are ideal times to visit. To hike the Devils Garden trail, you would be smart to start early. The trailhead parking fills up, but if you get here early, you can catch the sun rising over the La Sal Mountains and beat the crowds to the trail. You’ll also enjoy cooler morning temperatures.

I hiked the trail on October 18th starting a little before 8am. I had no trouble getting parking and once I passed Landscape Arch, the crowds thinned considerably. I still was able to catch the sunrise over the La Sal Mountains and check out some of the other sites on the way to the trailhead.

Trail Description

The Devils Garden Loop has several spur trails that total about nine miles of hiking.  Note that the trails to Landscape Arch, Pine Tree Arch and Tunnel Arch are well maintained and family-friendly, but beyond that, you’ll see signs warning of the “primitive trail.” Most of this loop is not suitable to young kids or anyone uncomfortable with heights or navigating from cairn to cairn over slick-rock. And because of the steep, slick surfaces on sections, it’s also inadvisable in rain, snow or icy conditions.

The trailhead is easy to find, and there are pit toilets and water available. It’s advisable to carry at least a liter of water in temperate weather; more if it’s hot. You’ll also need snacks, sunscreen, a hat and the ten essentials.

Each junction is well-signed, though there are some sections of the trail which require you to follow cairns to navigate. It’s important to stick to the designated trails, as soil crust is fragile and supports tiny organisms critical to desert life.

I recommend hiking the loop in a clockwise direction for the best views and fewer crowds, beginning with the famous Landscape Arch. 

Landscape Arch

Landscape Arch, measuring 306 feet from base to base, is the longest arch in the park and the fifth longest arch in the world. It’s an easy 1.5 miles to the arch, and the majority of visitors to Devil’s Garden turn around here.

In 1991 a rock slab 60 feet long, 11 feet wide and four feet thick fell from the arch, and at some point in the future, the arch will likely collapse. Since that time, the park has closed the trail that once led directly beneath the impressive span.

From the Landscape Arche viewpoint, the trail begins a climb up slick-rock to Partition Arch. The photo below shows the view looking back down the “trail” just climbed.

While the namesake arches are the main attraction in the park, pay attention to the little details and you’ll discover there is much more to enjoy. The sandstone fins that dominate Devil’s Garden proved a glimpse into the formation of arches in various stages.

Partition Arch

About 1/2 mile beyond Landscape Arch, Partition Arch actually is a pair of arches separating the fins that Landscape and Navajo arches are formed on. The main arch gives you a sweeping view to the north, and you can (carefully) find a place to sit and soak in the view on the north side of the arch.

Head through the main arch, and to the east is a sloping ledge that provides a great place to sit and soak in the grandeur of Arches.

Click for an interactive 360-degree view of Partition Arch

Navajo Arch

Head back out the spur and bear left at the junction to Navajo Arch. This short spur trail leads down behind the next fin, revealing a beefy arch that feels like a doorway to a small, hidden slot canyon.

Click for an interactive 360 photo of Navajo Arch

From Navajo Arch, backtrack to the main loop trail and head west. Here the trail climbs to the top of a squat fin with 360-degree views.

The trail climbs up this rock

You scramble up this steep section to the top of the fin, then follow it for about 1/4 mile.

There are great views in all directions. Just be sure to stop before you look around. You won’t want to step off the edge!

Atop the Fin en route to Double-O Arch

Black Arch Overlook

At the far end of the stretch along the top of the fin, the trail drops once more to the ground and a short spur to an overlook of Black Arch.

Double O Arch

Another scramble down steep slickrock takes you to the unusual Double O Arch. What makes this arch particularly unusual is that one is stacked above the other. You can hike directly under the arches and view it from all sides.

After this, watch carefully for the junction with the spur trail to Dark Angel. The maze of use trails leading to and from Double-O Arch make it easy to miss. It’s only about 5-10 yards away from the arch.

Dark Angel

The Dark Angel is not an arch, but a dark-colored pinnacle that sit like a sentry at the northwest extreme of the Devil’s Garden. The 1/2 mile spur trail is worth the trip for the views.

Dark Angel

From Dark Angel, retrace your steps to rejoin the Devils’ Garden Loop. The sign once again warns that it is a primitive trail, which I found enjoyable. There were generally fewer people on this section, and it also gives you a close look at the bottom of the garden.

Private Arch

At six miles you reach a junction with the spur trail to Private Arch. The 1/2 mile spur trail takes you to probably one of the least viewed arches in the park.

Climb the last stretch of slickrock beyond the arch and you’ll be rewarded with an amazing view of the Devil’s Garden. Here you can really see the fins that erode over millions of years to create the iconic arches.

End of Private Arch TrailHead back to the main loop trail and continue on, as it descends a dry creek bed and circles the eastern edge of Devil’s Garden, finally rejoining the trail you hiked in on. Follow this trail back toward the trailhead, but stop to take the short spur trail to Pine Tree and Tunnel Arches.

Pine Tree Arch

This is a tall, thick arch, so-named because a pine tree is growing under the arch.

Tunnel Arch

On the other side of the spur trail is the ninth tunnel on this tour– Tunnel Arch. This arch is viewed from a distance, and looks a bit like a porthole or a subway tunnel.

From this final arch it’s less than a mile back to the trailhead parking, which by now has completely filled up. And you still have half the day to explore!

Devils Garden Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Note that the mileage recorded on my GPS is over two miles longer than the National Park map mileage, likely due to signal noice hiking in narrow canyons.

Devils Garden Tips

• No permits are required for hiking.
• Water is only available in two places in Arches National Park; at the Visitor’s Center at the Park Entrance, and at the Devil’s Garden trailhead. Be sure to fill your bottles before hiking this dry, exposed trail.
• The primitive sections of the trail require hiking over sections of steep slickrock and navigating from cairn to cairn. Take you’re time to make sure you’re on the trail. Leave the cairns intact. Do not tamper with existing cairns or build your own.

More Arches National Park Resources

• Official Arches National Park website
• Arches National Park Map from National Geographic

Arches National Park Weather Forecast

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Original hiked this trail on October 18, 2016. 

Giant old-growth redwood trees, lush forest, babbling creeks and beautiful waterfalls–there is plenty to love about this nearly 11 mile loop hike to Berry Creek Falls in Big Basin Redwoods State Park. Big Basin Redwoods is California’s oldest state park, and features the largest stand of coastal redwoods south of San Francisco. These are tall trees–some more than 300 feet tall and 50 feet in circumference–and they date back 1,000 to 2,500 years old.

Trail Details

Distance: 11 miles
Time: 5-6 hours
Difficulty: Moderately strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,364 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Year-round
Trailhead Directions

Berry Creek Falls is actually a series of four waterfalls deep in the park. This route will take you down a section of the Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail to the Berry Creek Falls Trail, then return via the higher Sunset Trail to complete the loop. You’ll start and finish at the park headquarters.

From the parking area, I took the Redwood Loop Trail past the amphitheater and took the bridge over Opal Creek, where it joins the Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail.

On the Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail, the trail climbs about 400 feet to Middle Ridge Road−a dirt fire road. The trail crosses the road and from here nearly all the way to Berry Creek Falls it’s all downhill. Of course means that you’ll be doing a lot of climbing to get back. Be sure you save some energy for the return trip!

The basin is lush, with mossy trees, soaring redwoods,  ferns and clover carpeting the forest floor.

It had rained the previous night, and moisture clung to every leaf. The trail itself was in great condition, though there were a few slick patches where trekking poles would have been handy.

As the trail descended the canyon along Kelly Creek, I spied a variety of flora and fauna, including my first sighting of a banana slug in the wild!

Banana slugs are brilliant yellow and rather large slugs that are quite common in the Santa Cruz Mountains. In fact, the lowly banana slug is the official mascot of US Santa Cruz. On this hike, I ended up counting twenty-four banana slugs in total.

Given the lush foliage, it’s easy to imagine how quickly these trails could be lost if they weren’t maintained. Fortunately, that’s not a problem. The trail is easy to follow with great tread, well marked signage and steep sections like this cut with steps to curb erosion.

Four miles into the hike I reached the double bridge over Waddell Creek. These are considered seasonal bridges that are removed when the creek runs high, but there was no issue for me at the end of October.

Another 100 yards further and the trail reaches a junction with the Berry Creek Falls Trail toward the right. I took it, and was soon rewarded with an amazing view of the biggest of the falls on Berry Creek.

There is a great viewing deck near the base of this waterfall, with benches that make a perfect spot for a break. I chatted with the first two hikers I had seen on this Monday morning−a pair of backpackers that had spent the night up the trail at Sunset Camp. We swapped hello’s and shared a bit about our respective adventures, and I continued up the trail.

The Berry Creek Falls Trail is a real gem, with a series of beautiful and different waterfalls as you ascend. The trail climbs about 500 feet in a mile, finally terminating at the junction to Sunset Camp and the Sunset Trail−the final trail in this loop.

The Sunset Trail is 5.3 miles of rollercoaster trail; lots of up and down. It runs well above the canyons in sections, giving you views out over the redwoods.

Along the way you’ll pass junctions with the Timm’s Creek Trail and a connector with the Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail before finally crossing the Middle Ridge Road and the final descent to finish the loop.

Take your time as you walk through these ancient groves. Think about the centuries of history they have lived through. You and I and the others who have passed these trees through the millennia are connected through this shared experience.

Back at the trailhead, stop by the museum for a look at the history and the research that continues at the park. Be sure to check out the intricate wood model of the park that shows the topology and the distribution of the various kinds of trees in the park.

Skyline to the Sea/Sunset Trail Map and Elevation Profile

Berry Creek Falls Tips

• The bridge crossing Waddell Creek is removed when the creek is running high. Check with the ranger for current conditions. You can call the park to check before you go at (831) 338-8860.
• Hike this loop in a clockwise direction (as described) for the best views.
• The trail can be slippery. Wear trail shoes with good traction.
• There is a $10 per car day use fee, but no permits are required for day hikes. You will be given a slip of paper to note your planned route and time of return and leave on your car dashboard. Fill it out. The day before I hiked this, a mother and her two young children got lost in the park. They huddled under a redwood in the rain until (fortunately) the rangers found them.
• You can also backpack this loop, camping overnight at Sunset Camp (near the midpoint). Permits are required.

More Big Basin Redwoods State Park Resources

• Big Basin Redwoods State Park − Official website
• Driving directions to Big Basin Redwoods State Park − Google Maps
  21600 Big Basin Way, Boulder Creek, CA 95006
• Berry Creek Loop − Redwood Hikes

Big Basin Redwoods State Park Weather Forecast

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I hiked this trail solo on October 31, 2016. 

Grand Teton National Park frequently shows up on lists of favorite backpacking treks, and in particular the 32-mile Teton Crest Trail. Last week I traveled to Jackson, Wyoming for a conference, but before the work — I met up with another attendee who travelled from Germany and together we spent four days backpacking this beautiful national park.

We had originally planned to hike the Teton Crest Trail, which most people start from the top of the tram above the Jackson Hole Ski Resort, then loops around the west side of the range, crossing four passes and exiting east through Paintbrush Canyon. We knew that there had been snow the week before, but as you can see from the view above, the snow didn’t look too bad.

Monday morning, I met my hiking partner Carsten for breakfast, made a stop at Teton Mountaineering to pickup bear spray (there are grizzlies up here) and a fuel canister, then headed to the visitor center in Moose, WY to pickup our permit. Right off the bat, the ranger informed us that the tram which whisk us to the top of the mountain and give us an easy, mostly downhill first day had stopped running the day before, shutting down until ski season started up in December.

So we went with Plan B. Starting at Granite Canyon and hiking up from the bottom. The ranger warned us that the snow was “probably” deep, but we figured we’d see for ourselves. And so we did.

The trail started out as we expected–pretty dry. The creek running down Granite Canyon had plenty of water, the forest shaded us from the bright sun. And then we ran into a bear. 

It may not show clearly in the photo above, but there were berries on those bushes. The ranger had warned us that bears were especially active, looking to load up on calories before going into hibernation for winter. I was leading the way, and hear the quick rustling in the brush. Carsten saw the blur of fur, and we both turned and quickly headed back down the trail to put a bit of distance between us. We didn’t run (never run from a bear) but we did get out of the way.

After retreating about 50 yards, we stopped and listened. Apparently the bear was as startled as we were, because after we waited about five minutes and made our way back up the trail, the bear was gone.

As we continued climbing up the canyon, we encountered more snow. There was plenty of evidence of wildlife, but only one set of footprints.

By 8000 feet, we were hiking through about 12″ of snow. Travel was not bad, and we hoped for the best. As we reached 9,000 feet, the snow was 24″ deep, and we were post-holing and breaking the trail. We knew that we had several passes over 10,000 feet. It wasn’t going to get better. We had set an aggressive schedule for the Teton Crest Trail, and with the snow level, there was no way we’d be able to make that mileage.

So we went from Plan B to Plan C. We camped our first night on the snow (my first time) and hiked back down Granite Canyon the next morning. Instead of the Teton Crest Trail, we’d be backpacking on the Valley Trail.

Being the shoulder season, the crowds were non-existent. We saw occasional day hikers (being not-too-far from the trailheads) but only a few other backpackers. We had our pick of campsites, including our Tuesday night camp at Phelps Lake and Wednesday night at Bradley Lake.

We finished at Jenny Lake. The skies had cleared and Grand Teton towered majestic above us. Plan C worked out pretty well. Though I’ll be back to hike the Teton Crest Trail another time.

Hiking with Carston was a pleasure. You never know when you hike with someone for the first time. All I knew about him was that he was into ultralight backpacking and had hiked the PCT. As we talked about our hiking background, I asked him if he had seen “Tell It On The Mountain” — the documentary about the Pacific Crest Trail that I reviewed here on SoCalHiker a few years ago. As it turns out, “Sauerkraut” (his trail name) was featured prominently in the documentary, and I had even written about his story! No wonder it sounded familiar.

I’ll be sharing detailed trail information in November, but wanted to give you a sense of what the trip was like.

Originally hiked October 10-13, 2016. 

Walking among the ancient, towering trees in Redwood Canyon, I’m reconnected to the natural world and to history itself. Most of the old growth redwoods here are between 600-800 years old, and the oldest is about 1200 years old — still young by redwood standards. As I hiked among these giants, it was easy to imagine the view being much the same as when John Muir visited this grove.

Trail Details

Distance: 3.5 miles
Time: 60-80 min.
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation gain: 842 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Year-round

Muir Woods National Monument: When to Go and How to Get There

Muir Woods National Monument is famously crowded. There is limited parking, and on the weekends, visitors are highly encouraged to take the shuttle bus. The first step to beating the crowds is to go when it’s less crowded. It seems like common sense, but for whatever reason, most people don’t do it. Be smarter than the average visitor. Go on a weekday, and go early. Muir Woods opens at 8:00 AM, and if you get there by then, you have a good chance of getting a space in the small, second lot (the first lot is mainly for shuttles and handicapped parking). Click here for the location on Google Maps.

Getting to Muir Woods early gives you the best chance of snagging a coveted parking spot, beating the crowds, and seeing wildlife. And as an added bonus, you might even get in for free. Normally entry is $10 for anyone over 16 years, but if you get there before the visitor center opens (as we did when we went) they have a “free admittance” sign posted.

Hiking the Canopy View Loop

The second best advice for avoiding the crowds at Muir Woods? Take the road less traveled — the Canopy View Trail.

Most visitors are content to wander up the boardwalks along Redwood Creek, craning their necks upwards and bumping into each other as they make their way up the canyon. Instead, take the Canopy View Trail and leave the crowds behind.

As you enter Muir Woods, follow the boardwalk — the Main Trail — into the redwoods. You’ll pass by the gift shop and cafe (which open a bit later) and catch glimpses of the first giant trees.

At the first junction, take the Canopy View Trail to the right. Some maps refer to it as the Ocean View Trail, but when you see the steps climbing up the east side of the canyon, you’ll know you’re on the right path.

The trail climbs up the canyon wall through thick sections of tall, straight, young redwoods.

It is a dirt single track trail with sections that are covered in roots, but the trail is in great condition overall. Trekking poles and boots are optional on this trail; my Solomon trail runners were a perfect match.

This is not a trail to race through (although the oldest trail race — the Dipsea Race — passes nearby). This loop trail is meant to be hiked slowly. Pause and reflect. Breathe deeply. Think about the history that these ancient trees have lived through.

At about 1.5 miles, you’ll reach the junction with the Lost Trail and the high point of this loop. There’s a rustic log bench for resting. When you’ve caught your breath, continue down the Lost Trail.

The Lost Trail descends pretty steeply, but the trail has steps built to reduce erosion and impact to the fragile environment. Take your time and watch for wildlife. We saw one other couple hiking behind us, and passed one couple headed in the opposite direction — so the “crowds” were non-existent up here. We did however see a young three-point buck just above the trail.

This is described on maps as the Fern Creek Trail (not Fern Canyon).

The Lost Trail actually leaves Muir Woods National Monument and enters Mt Tamalpais State Park, eventually connecting with the Fern Creek Trail and cuts back to the south. True to its namesake, the hills were lined with lush, green ferns.

At the bottom of Fern Canyon, you’ll reach Redwood Creek. There’s an interesting bridge built atop a fallen log that leads further up Redwood Canyon, but you’ll turn left and follow the Redwood Creek Trail downstream.

This junction is quiet, but it used to be seriously bustling with the arrival of tourists taking the Muir Woods Railway from Mt Tamalpais. There were cabins and the Muir Inn where you could spend the night in the woods. The inn burned down in 1913, and the railway ceased operation in 1929, but you can visit Mt Tam where they have a gravity car on display at the “other” end of the railway. It’s a worthwhile side-trip after your hike.

The Redwood Creek Trail (aka the Main Trail) is where you re-enter the crowded section of Muir Woods. The crowds grow as you get closer to the visitors center, but you’ll want to take your time anyway. Follow the trail back toward the visitor center and the end of the loop.

Canopy View Trail Map

Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Variations

Muir Woods is criss-crossed by trails, many which connect to other trail networks in Mt Tamalpais State Park. You can easily modify this to suit your time and inclination. Pickup the overall map at the visitor center and go explore!

Muir Woods National Monument Tips

• Bring a liter of water. Even if it’s foggy or overcast, you’ll need hydration on the climb.
• Be prepared for slick trails. Hey, this is Marin County we’re talking about. It’s often damp and foggy and dripping with moisture. Don’t expect to have the nice dry trails I saw.
• Be sure to Leave No Trace. In fact, go a step further and bring a bag to pickup any trash you see.
• There is no cell phone coverage in Muir Woods. I used GaiaGPS to track my route, but downloaded the maps before going so I’d have them even without cell coverage.
• One minor peeve: The signage in the park and the maps available use conflicting trail names. The Fern Canyon Trail is sometimes referred to as the Fern Creek Trail. The Main Trail is also referred to as the Redwood Creek Trail. Numerous inconsistencies in naming can be confusing and frustrating, but if you can read a map and follow the signs, you’ll be okay.
• There are two official maps available from the park, the Muir Woods National Monument Map and the Historic Walking Tour Map. They are $1 each, and I highly recommend picking up both for the wealth of information they provide. They can be found at the visitor center, or in self-service dispensers on the Main Trail (with an honor-system donation box).

More Muir Woods National Monument Resources

• GPS user? Download the GPX track.
• Check the official Muir Woods National Monument website for the latest information on hours of operation and events at Muir Woods.
• Get an high-level overview of the trails in the area in this Muir Woods Trail Map (PDF).

Muir Woods National Monument Weather Forecast

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Special thanks to Joan, Kaete and Christopher for joining me on this hike.

Antelope Canyon is one of the most surreal places I’ve explored. The Navajo sandstone slot canyon was formed over years of flash floods, wind and weather leaving behind the softly flowing curves in the stone canyon. The result is a photogenic wonder, ever-changing as the sun passes over head. The surreal shapes and colors make Antelope Canyon a bucket list destination.

I visited Antelope Canyon as part of a solo road trip. It’s located just outside Page, Arizona on a Navajo Tribal Park.

The only way to gain access to the canyons is through guided tour. I used Ken’s Tours (www.lowerantelope.com, $28) and had a wonderful experience on the hour and a half tour. My guide was incredibly knowledgeable and even played a Navajo flute at one point with the canyon walls echoing it’s sound.

There are actually two separate canyons: Upper and Lower Antelope Canyon. Upper Antelope Canyon is more easily accessible and is best seen around noon to see the streaming light coming through the canyon.  Lower Antelope Canyon is best early in the morning and is accessed through a series on narrow metal stairs that go down into the canyon.

Once you reach the sand ground, you find yourself surrounded by smooth curves and passageways of red rock ever changing by the light streaming in through above.

While Antelope Canyon isn’t really much of a hike, it’s a beautiful place to visit and should definitely be on your bucket list.

Have you been to Antelope Canyon? What are your bucket list destinations? Leave a comment below and let me know!

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park has everything that Big Sur is known for — dramatic old growth coastal redwoods that tower above you; streams dancing through steep gorges lined with colorful wildflowers; stunning views of the rugged coastline; and photogenic waterfalls.

Trail Details

Distance: 5.9 miles
Time: 2-3 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 1,430 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Year-round

Getting to Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is located 37 miles south of Carmel and 11 miles south of Big Sur State Park on Highway 1. The Ewoldsen Trail begins at the far end of the upper parking lot. There is a sign clearly marking the Ewoldsen Trail.

Hiking the Ewoldsen Trail

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is a popular stop in Big Sur, but mainly for the iconic McWay Falls. The parking lot gets busy, as do the picnic areas, but the crowds quickly dissipate as you hike up the mountain.

The trailhead begins with a clearly marked sign on the north side of McWay Creek, and you immediately head into the cool shade of the forest.

McWay Creek babbles and dances as you pass through the lush canyon — lined with giant redwoods. You soon cross to the south side of the creek and climb a bit higher. Listen carefully for Canyon Falls — a 30 foot cascade lined in moss.

Photo credit: Wayne Hsieh

At  reach the bridge crossing the creek and begin climbing up the side of the canyon. The trail bears northwest, rounding a ridge at about 1.3 miles and continuing down to rejoin McWay Creek. Here you’ll reach the bottom of the Ewoldsen loop.

We chose to hike the loop in a counter-clockwise direction, when meant continuing up along the creek for another mile before climbing once again. As you crest the ridge, the views open up.

The trail follows the countour of the mountain down to another valley, then up the other side. At 4.0 miles, you catch glimpses over the ocean down to McWay Rocks off the coast. You may see evidence from the landslide here that closed down PCH — a solemn reminder of the instability of this ever-changing coastline.

From here, the trail is mainly downhill back to close the loop at the creek, and follow the trail back to the trailhead.

Along the way, be watchful for butterflies, birds, and the beautiful iris blooming along the trail.

If  you’re visiting Big Sur, or event recommend including this loop. It’s not too long, and includes some great cascades, towering redwood trees, lush canyons and sweeping coastal views.

Afterwards, be sure to take stroll over to the overlook above McWay Falls.

Ewoldsen Trail Map

Photo Gallery

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Ewoldsen Trail Tips

• The eastern side of the Ewoldsen Loop is current closed for maintenance (as of 8/30/15). See the state park website for latest updates.
• The weather in Big Sur can be unpredictable. Bring layers and be prepared for damp or wet weather.

More Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park Resources

• Official Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park Brochure (PDF)
• Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park (official website)
• Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is open 1/2 hour before sunrise to 1/2 hour after sunset

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park Weather Forecast

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One of the very best ways to really get to know a place is by exploring it on your own two feet.

Here are ten amazing destinations that are rich with day hiking adventures for all abilities.

New Zealand

Photo credit: Samuel Mann – Creative Commons

New Zealand is well-known for the dramatic mountain scenes from the Lord of the Rings films, but you can get a taste of this beauty after “tramping”—the Kiwi term for hiking—just a few kilometers. The impressive Oparara Arch is only 1 km from the car park, but provides a lush, green forest with an 219 meter arch carved through the limestone by the river.

Located within Kahurangi National Park, there are many options in the Oparara Basin for easy day hikes of lengths to suit your schedule. Located in the northwest corner of the South Island, Kahurangi is New Zealand’s second largest national park.

Antelope Canyon

Photo credit: Bethany Hester

Antelope Canyon is located on a Native American reservation near Page, Arizona. But these windswept sandstone canyons seem like something from another world. There are two canyons to choose from—Upper and Lower Antelope Canyons—and each are a sight to behold.

These hikes require a guide, but must be seen if you are anywhere in the Lake Havasu area. And while you are visiting Page, be sure to stop by the equally photogenic Horseshoe Bend.

Norway

Photo credit: Thomas Frost Jensen – Creative Commons

The land of fjords provides a spectacular backdrop for a hike to Trolltunga—the Troll’s tongue. You may not recognize the name, but the image is unmistakable. Buzzfeed described Trolltunga as the “most stunning place in the world to take a selfie.”

This hike involves an long, strenuous climb that will take most of the day, but the for the fit hiker who is unafraid of heights, this is a trail you’ll never forget. Guided hikes are also available.

Mammoth Lakes

Photo credit: Rene Rivers – Creative Commons

Many people think of Mammoth Lakes as a great winter sports destination (they’re right). But it’s also a gateway to fantastic day hiking in the majestic Sierra mountains. You can take a shuttle (it’s mandatory) from town down to Red’s Meadow; visit the unusual geologic formation known as Devil’s Postpile National Monument; hike to the impressive Rainbow Falls; and cap it all off with a well-earned hand-scooped milkshake at the Red’s Meadow cafe.

Both the 211-mile John Muir Trail and the epic Pacific Crest Trail travel right through this valley, so be sure to wander down the path a bit. Congratulations! You just hiked a section of the PCT!

Oahu

 

Photo credit: Marvin Chandra – Creative Commons

Oahu has beautiful beaches, and lush green mountains. The 7 mile round trip hike up Pu’u Ohulehule is a strenuous climb with a big reward—expansive views over the Windward side of the island. The 2,265’ summit is the perfect place to break for lunch.

Grand Tetons

Photo credit: Diana Robinson – Creative Commons

The Grand Tetons certainly are grand. Just outside of Jackson Hole, Wyoming, this national park has a wealth of hiking trails for all levels, and some of the best are actually pretty easy, like the 7.1 loop around Jenny Lake.

Best of all? The views of the toothy peaks are a truly magnificent from a distance.

Banff

Photo credit: Bastian Sander – Creative Commons

The Canadian Rockies are known for their iconic peaks and glacier-blue lakes. The 6.6 mile Plain of Six Glaciers trail gives you impressive views of Mt Lefroy, Mt Victoria and Victoria Glacier. It is considered one of the most scenic hikes in the Canadian Rockies.

And you can drop in at the Plain of Six Glaciers Tea House for high tea.

Muir Woods

Photo credit: Tom “Andertho” – Creative Commons

Muir Woods National Monument in Marin County is a short drive from San Francisco, yet a world away. There are six miles of trails, with a 1/2 hour, 1 hour and 1-1/2 hour loop. Walking through Muir Woods you’ll be among old-growth redwood trees—the tallest living things in the world. The tallest on record is as tall as a 37-story skyscraper.

Looking for a longer trail? These hikes can be extended into neighboring Mount Tamalpais State Park. The views from Mt Tam are incredible.

Switzerland

Photo credit: Els “Pixelshoot”– Creative Commons

The Lauterbrunnental in the Swiss Alps is the world’s largest glacial valley — even bigger than Yosemite. Cascading down it’s walls you’ll count 72 waterfalls, including some of the tallest in Europe. Hike the six-mile loop from Lauterbrunnen to village of Mürren, with a gentle forest path, dozens of streams to hop across, and plenty of spectacular views along the way.

You can stop for wine and cheese at Mürren, and if your legs get tired on the way back, catch a tram from the lovely village of Gimmelwald.

Zion National Park

Photo credit: Jeff Hester

The majestic red rock canyons of Zion National Park tower above you as you wind along the Virgin River. This is a wonderful place to hike, with trails for all levels. Everything from the family-friendly Emerald Pools to the wet Narrows, all the way to the oh-so-frightening hike up to Angels Landing. Be sure to bring plenty of water and start early to avoid the crowds, and the heat.

It’s impossible to cover all the wonderful day hikes to explore in a list so short, so consider this as simply a good start. What trails would you recommend where you live?

This post originally appeared on HomeExchange.com. HomeExchange.com helps you cut your travel costs, and day hikes will let you explore those destinations in a way that many people never experience.

Crystal Crag looms above beautiful Crystal Lake, surrounded by steep granite peaks and dotted with pines. And this short hike to Crystal Lake in the town of Mammoth Lakes gives you a taste of the Sierra Mountains without the long miles or an overnight backpack, making this a perfect morning day hike. 

Trail Details

Distance: 3.2 miles
Time: 2 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 685 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: June-October

Getting to the Trailhead

The Crystal Crag trailhead begins near Lake George directly off of Lake George Road (directions via Google Maps), about five miles from the town center. Free street parking is available along Lake George Road — but make sure your car is entirely off the pavement to avoid being ticketed.

Better yet, you can take the free Mammoth Lakes Tram which runs approximately every 30 minutes.

We arrived fairly late by our normal standards, getting there around 9:30am, but when we got back from our hike, parking was much worse with cars parked even further down the hill. As always, my recommendation is to start earlier to beat the crowds. Morning is a perfect time to explore this trail.

Hiking to Crystal Lake

The Crystal Crag trailhead is well signed, and the trail very easy to follow. You’ll steadily climb a series of well-engineered switchbacks that make the grade fairly easy by Sierra standards. The trail is mostly shaded, giving you some relief from the brilliant mountain sun.

As you climb, pause to look back over Lake George, Lake Mary and even glimpses of Lake Mamie through the pines.

This is a popular trail, and you’re likely to see trail runners, people hiking with dogs and entire families with kids in tow.

At about 1.3 miles, you’ll reach the only junction on the trail. Bear left (straight) to continue towards Crystal Lake. The other route continues up to Mammoth Crest.

At this point, you are nearly at the high point of the trail. Once you reach the crest (about 9,730′) you descend 120′ to the outlet of Crystal Lake.

From the outlet, you have some choices. There some use trails that travel part way back the steep-sloped western shore with access to the lake and boulders to stretch out on. But most people will travel around the east side of the lake, where the slope is gentler, offering more options to spread out for a picnic or even take a plunge in the icy cold water.

We found a boulder to sit on and soak in the views of the crag, the lake and the surrounding peaks. It was an idyllic spot for a snack break, but more than that, it replenished our souls.

Fully recharged, we headed back down the trail, retracing our steps to the trailhead.

Crystal Lake Trail Map

Photo Gallery

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Crystal Lake Tips

• No permits are required for this hike
• Start early. This is a popular trail that can get crowded.
• Consider take the free tram from town

More Crystal Lake Resources

• You can also climb Crystal Crag via several routes, including a Class 3 route that doesn’t require any equipment. Get details on the routes from SummitPost.
• Download the GPX file

Mammoth Lakes Weather Forecast

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I’ve been to the unique geologic formation known as Devils Postpile several times, including on my thru-hikes of the John Muir Trail. Last time, we didn’t take the trip up to the top, nor did we visit the impressive Rainbow Falls, so when we were up in Mammoth Lakes, both were on our to-hike list.

Trail Details

Distance: 4.5 miles
Time: 2-3 hours
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation gain: 690 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: June-October

Getting to Devils Postpile National Monument

During the summer months, you can’t drive down to Devils Postpile National Monument. Instead, park near the Mammoth Adventure Center, when you’ll buy tickets for the shuttle down to the valley. The shuttle runs pretty frequently, and while you’re down in the valley, you can hop-on and off as often as you like.

There are a number of stops in the valley, so ask the driver to tell you which stop to get off for the Devils Postpile. This will get you started right in front of the Devils Postpile ranger station, where you can also pickup a free trail map and information about the area.

Hiking to Devils Postpile

There are a myriad of trails criss-crossing this area, but it’s well-signed. Follow the signs leading to the Devil’s Postpile.

As you near the Postpile, you’ll see a signed junction to the Upper Postpile Loop. Make a mental note of that trail, because you’ll come back to it after seeing the Postpile from below. Another 20 yards takes you to the perfect viewing area.

The “posts” are a fascinating, naturally occurring geologic formation. From the bottom of the pile you can see huge chunks that have broken off over time, as well as a great angle on the columns themselves. It’s tough to soak it all in, and the panorama mode on my iPhone came in handy here.

Backtrack to the junction we passed earlier and take the loop trail to the top of the Postpile. It’s a fairly short climb, and at the top you will see how the columns fit together. I think they look a bit like giant, hexagonal bathroom tiles.

Continue on the loop trail back down the other end of the Postpile and you’re rewarded with yet another interesting view of the columns.

Back at the bottom, you rejoin the trail toward Rainbow Falls. At 1.4 miles you’ll cross Red’s Creek. The water level was pretty low, but there are a couple heavy timbers you can walk over to avoid stepping in the creek.

At 1.7 miles, the trail crosses the John Muir Trail. Take a short detour to the right and you’ll enjoy great views up and down the San Joaquin River from a sturdy wood-and-steel bridge.

Return to the Rainbow Falls trail and continue south. Here you enter an area with open skies, burn-scarred trunks standing like skeletons over brush and new growth. This area was burned in the 1992 Rainbow Fire, and is still decades away from recovering.

At ~3.4 miles you get your first glimpse of Rainbow Falls from above the bluff. Be sure to stop at both of the overlooks; each view is unique.

Finally, descend the steep steps to the base of the falls. This is where the scope and magnitude of Rainbow Falls really hits home.

Soak in the sounds and the energy of the falls. Take a break. This is a place that’s worth spending some time in. When you’ve topped off the tank, climb back up the steps and begin retracing your steps. This time, however, you’re going to watch for the fork to Reds Meadows Resort.

Reds Meadows Resort is primarily a pack station, a cafe and a general store. There are a few cabins that are available for rent, but that’s not why you’re here. You want a well-earned lunch and a milkshake from the Mulehouse Cafe. This place was here when I first thru-hiked the John Muir Trail back in 1980. It was still here when I thru-hiked the JMT 30 years later in 2010. It’s still here now, and it will probably be here for years to come. It’s a fixture for thru-hikers on the JMT and PCT, in part because Reds Meadow is one of the common resupply points. But it’s also one of the few places where you come so close to civilization.

On any given afternoon you’re just as likely to dine with tourists visiting Mammoth from Europe as you are dirty, smelly, sweaty thru-hikers stopping in for a cheeseburger and fries. It’s a great experience.

One word of advice — the degree of deliciousness is directly proportional to the number of miles you’ve hiked.

From Reds Meadow, you simply wait for the shuttle to reappear and whisk you back to the Mammoth Adventure Center.

This is a great little hike with two exceptional destinations. I will always hike here whenever I’m in Mammoth Lakes.

Devils Postpile to Rainbow Falls Trail Map

Photo Gallery

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Devils Postpile Tips

• Bring a liter of water per person. Even though it’s an easy hike, it can be hot in the sun.
• Bring a hat and sunscreen. Most of this hike is shaded, but the sections that are not demand sun protection.
• Bring mosquito repellant. Especially in August.
• After your hike, stop for lunch at the Mulehouse Cafe and order a milkshake.
• Take at least a few steps on the John Muir Trail and Pacific Crest Trail.
  Congratulations. You are now a section hiker.

More Devils Postpile Resources

• During the summer, cars are not allowed to drive into Devils Postpile. Instead, you must take the shuttle from the Mammoth Adventure Center. At the time of writing, tickets were $7 per adult.
• Dogs on leash are allowed, and you can take a dog on the shuttle but they must wear a muzzle. The Adventure Center will sell you a muzzle if you need it.
• Reds Meadow website
• Download the GPX file for use with your GPS device or app

Devils Postpile Weather Forecast

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We ascended Walter’s Wiggles, the 21-switchbacks carefully engineered and reinforced with sandstone blocks and were standing atop Scout Lookout, with awe-inspiring views down into Zion Canyon and over the Virgin River. Looming before us was a slender finger of red sandstone leading to Angels Landing. I have been up Half Dome several times. I’ve sat atop Banner Peak and dangled my feet over Thousand Island Lake. And I’ve climbed to the top of Mt Whitney in the darkness of night. But looking at the “trail” before us I got butterflies. At first glance, the trail up to Angels Landing looks impossibly steep and treacherous.

Angels Landing in Zion National Park is one of the most challenging and rewarding hikes in the park. The slender spine of red sandstone juts into the canyon like a spine, and provides epic views in all directions. Getting to the top requires you to check your acrophobia at the trailhead, and the final push from Scout Landing has sheer drops with little room for errors.

Trail Details

Distance: 5 miles
Time: 4 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 1,500 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Year-round

We arrived at Zion National Park early in the morning, and got parking at the visitor center parking lot near the entrance. During the summer months, Zion does not allow cars in the canyon. Instead, you park at the visitor center or in neighboring Springdale and take a shuttle into the valley.

Angels Landing Trail Description

We took the shuttle to the Grotto Trailhead — the sixth stop in Zion’s main canyon. There are restrooms and picnic tables near the shuttle stop. We checked our water and headed over the bridge across the Virgin River and up the West Rim Trail.

The trail is actually paved as it slogs uphill winding close to the canyon wall.

At 1.5 miles you reach beautiful Refrigerator Canyon.

This deep, narrow side canyon is shady and stays cool even in the summer. This section climbs more gently, giving you a bit of a breather until you reach Walter’s Wiggles.

These 21 switchbacks are steep and short, and an amazing bit of 1930’s trail engineering. Our legs felt good, but the climb really gets your heart pumping.

At the top of the wiggles we reached Scout Landing. Many people reach this point and go no further, intimidated by the path ahead that seems more like a trial than a trail. This is a good spot to take a break, eat a snack, drink some water and consider… are your papers in order?

The sign to Angels Landing declares ominously: “Since 2004, six people have died falling from the cliffs on this route. The 1.1 mile round-trip from Scout Landing to Angels Landing is a strenuous climb on a narrow ridge over 1,400 feet above the canyon floor. This route is not recommended during high winds, storms or if snow or ice is present.” 

Warning

People have fallen to their death on this trail. It is exposed and can be brutally hot in the summer, or icy and slippery in the winter. Do not attempt if raining, snowing or freezing, as this amplifies the dangers. As the signs at the trailhead warn, “your safety is your responsibility.” 

I was determined to go to the top. Many people do every day. I wasn’t sure if Joan would be as enthusiastic. But when I saw the narrow spine that we would be climbing to reach Angels Landing, I felt my pulse quicken. A little voice in my head said “Really? No way!”

We caught our breath and decided to give it a go. 

The Angels Landing trail traverses solid sandstone with sheer drops of hundreds of feet possible. People have died on this trail, as the signs warn. In most places, the trail involves following a well-worn route over the steep sandstone while holding a chain on one side. And it’s not that bad. With proper shoes, a decent sense of balance and a rational fear of death (keeping you from behaving foolishly), you can hike this trail. You will gain another 500 vertical feet in a very short distance, but take your time. Breathe.

Reaching the top is exhilarating, and the views are magnificent.

Angels Landing plenty of area to spread out and enjoy the views. We took time to soak it all in and recorded a short time-lapse video of the view down the canyon.

Heading down was complicated. When we got to Angels Landing, it was early enough in the morning that not many people were coming down yet. As we descended, there was a steady stream of hikers making their way up the narrow spine. With only one chain, passing is best done with extreme caution.

Once we were back at Scout Landing, the rest of the hike down was easy.

Angels Landing Trail Map

Angels Landing Photo Gallery

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Angels Landing Tips

• Start early. Not only will you find fewer people, you’ll also have cooler temperatures — and important consideration in the summer.
• Take plenty of water. This is not a trail where you want to skimp on water. Bring 1-2 liters and stay hydrated.
• This trail has a lot of sun exposure. Use sun protection and a hat.
• Don’t take unnecessary risks. Be aware of the people around you. One accidental bump could be tragic.

More Zion National Park Resources

• Zion National Park website
• Lunch at the Lodge — but upstairs (on the patio if the weather permits). It is quieter and much more relaxed.

Zion National Park Weather Forecast

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Today was our fourth and final day on the Lost Coast Trail. The last day of any backpacking trip is always bittersweet. We looked forward to sleeping in a bed and eating a meal that wasn’t rehydrated. Yet we want to linger and savor the sense of peace and connectedness we’ve enjoyed on the trail.

Trail Details

Distance: 10 miles
Time: 5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 75 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Year-round

Our tide chart told us that high tide peaked at 7:45am. We broke camp in the morning mist and headed south down Miller Flat. One mile south of Big Flat Creek, the terrace ends and the trail heads down to the beach. We arrived a bit early, and the surf still lapped the rock outcrops. We dropped our packs and enjoyed the smell of the salt air and the sound of the waves crashing. The cobbled beach stones chattered as the surf pushed and pulled them down the beach.

Soon we were joined by two other groups of backpackers. The first — an older group of four brothers and their father; the second a group of three twenty-somethings — one hiking barefoot. One by one each group started back down the Lost Coast as the tide began to recede. We unconsciously created space between each party, so we still had the sense of having the trail mostly to ourselves.

The entire Lost Coast Trail is beautiful and surprisingly diverse. But this 4.5 mile section from the south end of Miller Flat to Gitchell Creek may have been my favorite section of the trail. You walk on the beach. The mountains and the forest drop precipitously down to the beach itself. At high tide, the surf meets the forest.

The close proximity of thick forested hills provides hiding spots for the deer, bear and other creatures whose prints you will often see in the sand. It’s odd to think of a bear or a deer on the beach, but here its quite normal. And who can blame them!? The scenery is absolutely breathtaking.

Along this section are two popular camp areas at Shipman Creek and Buck Creek. These often fill up, which was one reason we stayed at Miller Flat.

The next mile beyond Gitchell Creek shows signs of signifcant erosion — a reminder that the sea is continually reshaping the coastline.

At mile 8.2 there are two significant boulders on the beach. When you reach these, you’re in the home stretch. Beyond these rocks the beach widens, and on a clear day you can pick out a few homes on the bluffs of Shelter Cove two miles away.

The Black Sands Beach trailhead parking is on a bluff between Telegraph and Humboldt Creeks. Continue past Telegraph Creek, then head up the north side of Humboldt Creek and you’ll see the walkway.

Lost Coast Trail: Day Four Trail Map

Day Four on the Lost Coast: Photo Gallery

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After the Hike

We stowed our gear and I put on a fresh shirt that I left in the car, then headed for lunch in Shelter Cove. From there, we drove the long, windy road back to the 101 and turned south. Our destination? A civilized finish to the trip with a stay at the Glendeven Inn in Mendocino. Highly recommended.

Shelter Cove Weather Forecast

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The Lost Coast Trail

Overview of the Lost Coast Trail

• Day 1: Mattole Beach to Sea Lion Gulch
• Day 2: Sea Lion Gulch to Spanish Flat
• Day 3: Spanish Flat to Miller Flat
• Day 4: Big Flat to Shelter Cove – You are here

The Lost Coast Trail has several sections which are impassable at high tide, and it is essential that you bring a tide chart along to avoid becoming trapped in one of these spots.

Trail Details

Distance: 7.5 miles
Time: 4-5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 100 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Year-round

I was the first one up, and took some time to play with my Olloclip macro lens for an early morning micro-adventure, cataloguing the various wildflowers right at our campsite. It never ceases to amaze me how brilliant and beautiful the world is, and often hidden in plain sight.

No more than half a mile down the trail we passed another Lost Coast cabin further down Spanish Flat, looking well-kept and lived in.

At the one mile mark, we crossed through a shady thicket of low trees at Oat Creek. The fog kept the temperatures perfect for hiking.

At two miles, we crossed Kinsey Creek, and marveled at how many creeks there were running this late in summer during a drought. You are never far from fresh water sources on the Lost Coast. In southern California, we’ve grown accustomed to carrying all the water we’ll need for a hike, and it took us while to realize that no, we don’t need to carry three liters of water. One will do.

At three miles, the ancient jeep trail we’d been following on Spanish Flat disappeared — a victim of erosion and the ever-changing coastline. We dropped down to the beach and started hiking on cobbled stones that crunched under our boots.

At 3.6 miles we paused and took a break at Big Creek. Someone had built a rather elaborate structure out of driftwood. This practice is frowned upon by the rangers, as it runs counter to the leave no trace philosophy.

It was at Big Creek that we also saw our first sign of other people in almost two days. A tent was setup at a campsite not far away.

We picked our way down the coast. Hiking on these rocks was difficult and slow, so we tried to stick as close as possible to the base of the bluffs where the ground was at least a little bit more solid.

At 4.6 miles, the trail climbed atop a terrace. We had reached the northern limit of Big Flat. The trail begins to climb, reaching the highest on our trail — a mere 100 feet or so above sea level — through thick, twisted pine trees.

When we finally emerged we came down to the broad terrace of the flat. The trail travels straight through grassy fields. We were wary of rattlesnakes and ticks, but had no problems with either.

The trail widens from single track to double track, eventually becoming a makeshift dirt air strip at mile six. We had heard about this air strip, and it was interesting to finally see it. Not much more than flat, straight dirt road that passed right by the nicest cabins we’d seen yet. The one was definitely inhabited, with solar panels for power and at least one person working in the yard. What a life.

Deer grazed nearby, and one young fawn passed in front of us, completely unfazed by our presence. Not far past the cabin the trail turns abruptly 90 degrees and heads straight toward the ocean before turning to follow near the top of the bluff.

At 7 miles, we reached Big Flat Creek. It’s a big creek, and there are a number of good camp sites on both sides of it. We dropped our packs and scouted out the best. I had my eye on the tall forest of trees on the south side of the creek on Miller Flat, and found an idyllic spot out the hot afternoon sun.

While there really isn’t a bad campsite on the Lost Coast, this was the most comfortable. It was a fitting site for our final night on the trail.

We were the first in the area to set up camp, but we were not alone. Over the next few hours several other small groups of backpackers showed up. It was the most people we had seen yet, but even so we were spread out. Sitting on the beach watching the sunset we saw other people, but back in our camp we had solitude and privacy.

Lost Coast Trail: Day Three Map

Day Three on the Lost Coast: Photo Gallery

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Shelter Cove Weather Forecast

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Come back tomorrow for Day 4 on the Lost Coast Trail!

The Lost Coast Trail

Overview of the Lost Coast Trail

• Day 1: Mattole Beach to Sea Lion Gulch
• Day 2: Sea Lion Gulch to Spanish Flat
• Day 3: Spanish Flat to Miller Flat – You are here
• Day 4: Miller Flat to Shelter Cove

I woke up to the early morning light. Outside our tent the air was thick with fog and heavy with moisture. Large drops of condensation clung to our rain fly, and everything that wasn’t covered was damp.

Trail Details

Distance: 7 miles
Time: 3 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 120 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Year-round

We refilled our water bottles in the creek at the bottom of Sea Lion Gulch, then started down the beach. This section of the Lost Coast is notable for the bowling ball-sized boulders. We had to pick our steps slowly and carefully, making progress slow.

Half a mile down the coast, the trail heads overland. The distant balancing rock you see in the photo below is the visual cue: this point is impassable at all tide levels. Turn inland up the wash and look up the hill for signs of a trail.

The sign for this overland detour is easy to miss. It’s high on the bluff, perched on a rock. As you’re hiking down the beach, you’ll find that the rocks and the water seem to be squeeze out the beach. Look for that balancing rock and then find the overland detour.

We headed into the gully and found the trail as it detoured around the point.

The sign for the LCT detour sits high on the bluff, well away from the beach.

This rocky spine marked the high point of the overland detour, which offered sweeping views of the coastline in both directions.

On the downhill side of the detour are the remains of another old cabin and a junction with the Cooskie Creek Spur trail. This junction is tricky, as the sign for the LCT is on the opposite side of the post — pointing in a non-obvious direction.

This minimalist approach to trail signage is a recurring theme on the Lost Coast. I had a conversation with one of the rangers who explained that it is quite intentional. The theory is that this land is wilderness, and they have attempted to keep the human touch light. I like that approach, but it means you’ll have to use your navigation smarts to keep yourself on the right trail. When you see a sign or even a trace of a junction, pause for a moment and look around. Make sure you’ve taken the right fork in the trail.

This cabin has seen better days, but just imagine the view someone once enjoyed. Actually, you don’t have to imagine. Hike the Lost Coast Trail and this view can be yours.

Back down on the beach, we picked our way among the cobbled stone and coarse black sand, around the rocks and ahead of the waves. Beach hiking here is tough and slow. By this time the sun had burned off all the fog and morning haze, and it while the breezes were still cool, we were working up a sweat.

At mile 5 we reached Randall Creek, which marks the north end of Spanish Flat. This grassy terrace gave us a welcome break from the tough beach hiking. Hiking on solid earth is bliss! We stopped here for lunch and setup our fly for some shade.

Just two easy miles later, we stopped to camp just south of Spanish Creek. We had the beach entirely to ourselves, and the time to enjoy it. We kicked our boots off and even took a little nap on the black sand beach. There were no emails or text messages to reply to. There were no updates to post. Just two people enjoying the sun on the Lost Coast.

Lost Coast Trail: Day Two Map

Day Two on the Lost Coast: Photo Gallery

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Shelter Cove Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”95589“]

Come back tomorrow for Day 3 on the Lost Coast Trail!

The Lost Coast Trail

Overview of the Lost Coast Trail

• Day 1: Mattole Beach to Sea Lion Gulch
• Day 2: Sea Lion Gulch to Spanish Flat – You are here
• Day 3: Spanish Flat to Miller Flat
• Day 4: Miller Flat to Shelter Cove

Trail Details

Distance: 5.4 miles
Time: 3 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 50 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Year-round

We made it to the Mattole Trailhead by 5:30pm. The shuttle service provided us with a great King Range map and a tide chart that I actually preferred to my own (we were prepared, of course). We filled out and filed our permit at the self-service station and decided that we’d start hiking tonight and leave the car campers behind.

The Lost Coast Trail starts out in the soft, dry sand dotted with ice plant. Hiking in soft sand is an interesting experience. You have to shorten your stride and slow your pace. The best advice I heard was to try not to use your toes. I’m not sure why, but it seemed to help as we plodded along. The views were beautiful. The beach strewn with driftwood, seaweed and all sorts of interesting shells and artifacts.

Soon sand gave way to wave-smoothed pebbles and rocks that crunched under our boots. Hiking the Lost Coast Trail is an art. Most of the time there isn’t an established path — except on the flats — and along the beach your challenge is to find the most efficient surface for hiking. Sometimes that’s the freshly wet set near the surf. Other times its nearest the bluffs where the dirt, stone and sand provide some semblance of stability. Overlaid on a map, our GPS tracks might make us look like drunken sailors, but there was a method to our madness.

When you’re lucky there are bits of real trail on solid ground. Take them. They may not last, as the coastline and the bluffs are constantly in flux, but enjoy them when you can. Every time we made the transition from sand to solid ground, it felt like we turned the turbochargers on.

Our first obstacle was the point up ahead, right at the 2.5 mile mark. We knew had to make it around that point before high tide, when it becomes impassable. No problem. We had our tide charts, had planned ahead and knew we could walk right around it.

As we neared the mouth of Four Mile Creek, we spied our first of several private cabins on the Lost Coast. It’s surprising to see a cabin out here where there are no roads, no power lines or utilities.  They private cabins are all rustic and weathered, and most are no longer habitable — long overtaken by the combination of neglect and the harsh wind, rain and weather of the Lost Coast. Not surprising when you consider that this area often receives over 100 inches of rain per year. 

This particular cabin looked to be in pretty good shape, with an outhouse that had a half door, so you could enjoy the view from your throne. This is as close as we got. These cabins are all private and as curious as we were, we didn’t want to trespass or infringe on their privacy.

We continued on, and soon spied the famous Punta Gorda lighthouse. This historic light house was built in 1910 after a number of fatal shipwrecks on the rocks off the coast. It’s unique in that it’s on the mainland, and it’s short, squat lighthouse. It remained in operation until 1961, when new technology replaced the need for the lighthouse.

We were able to explore the lighthouse and climb up the rusty iron spiral staircase to the top. It’s in remarkably good condition even  a century later.

The Punta Gorda Lighthouse is 3.75 miles from the Mattole trailhead, making it a great day hike destination for campers. Starting late in the day as we had, we say one other couple who were returning from the lighthouse. These would be the only two people we saw on the trail today.

The sun was dipping lower, and we were aiming to reach Sea Lion Gulch for our first night’s camp, about 1.25 miles further down the coast.

We found a campsite on the bluff overlooking the gulch.

Sea Lion Gulch is so-named because sea lions and seals frequent the rocks just off the coast. Indeed, there was a cranky old sea lion with is deep wails and the barks of the seals to confirm that we had arrived.

Our campsite gave us a great view down the coast. The next four miles of the trail were impassable at high tide, so by starting here, we could time our entry as the tide was receding and make sure we didn’t get caught by the incoming tide.

Lost Coast Trail: Day One Map

Day One of the Lost Coast: Photo Gallery

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Lost Coast Trail Tips

• You can camp anywhere on the Lost Coast, but use previously established campsites whenever possible, to minimize impact on the environment.
• Carry a tide chart and know where the impassable sections are! While in those sections, keep an eye on the ocean. A rogue wave can sneak up at any time, and unsuspecting hikers have been swept out to sea.
• There is zero cell phone reception on the Lost Coast Trail. You’ll have to use backcountry smarts to handle any emergency that arises. Of course, you’re carrying the Ten Essentials, right?
• Be sure to start at the beginning, with our Overview of the Lost Coast Trail.
• We didn’t have any rain on our trip (July is historic a low-rainfall on this otherwise very wet trail). Even so, we had to use our rain fly every night. Anything that wasn’t covered got soaked with condensation from the fog. So cover up!

Our first day on the Lost Coast was memorable. We felt the solitude of the trail, and the beauty and history of this rugged coastline. We drifted to sleep serenaded by the waves crashing on the rocks below.

Next, read Day 2 on the Lost Coast Trail: Sea Lion Gulch to Spanish Flat.

Shelter Cove Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”95589“]

The Lost Coast Trail

Overview of the Lost Coast Trail

• Day 1: Mattole Beach to Sea Lion Gulch You are here!
• Day 2: Sea Lion Gulch to Spanish Flat
• Day 3: Spanish Flat to Miller Flat
• Day 4: Miller Flat to Shelter Cove

We arrived at Mattole Beach early in the evening. The trailhead has a scattering of car campsites, which we were eager to leave behind. We donned our backpacks, hit the trail, and promptly lost ourselves in the vast beauty of the coast. It feels somehow primal; the convergence of sea and land on this solitary, rugged section of the Northern California coastline. There are no roads on this section of the coast–the terrain is too rugged. There is no cell phone coverage. And we saw very few people. We were disconnected from the modern world, and reconnecting to the land, the sea and ourselves.

I breathed in deeply, the moist, salty air filling my nostrils and renewing my energy with each step. We were off the grid in the best way possible. We were on the Lost Coast Trail. 

The Lost Coast is so named because this section of this section of land was too steep and rugged to build a road. Big Sur was tamed by Highway 1, but not the Lost Coast. Highway 1 veers inland 20 miles around this remote section of coastline. There are no roads or cars. Just getting to the trailhead is a journey in itself.

Trail Details

Distance: 25 miles
Time: 3-4 days
Difficulty: Moderately strenuous multi-day
Elevation gain: 50 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Year-round

We hiked the Lost Coast Trail over four days and three nights — a comfortable pace that allowed flexibility in our hiking schedule to accommodate the high tides. We started with a rough itinerary, but with the exception of the third night, changed every planned camp location. Have a plan, but plan to be flexible. The Lost Coast demands it.

An Overview of the Lost Coast Trail

The first day on the trail we started out about 5:30 PM, and hiked an easy 5-1/2 miles. Along the way, we stopped by the beautiful and historic Punta Gorda Lighthouse. The lighthouse was built in 1910 after numerous fatal shipwrecks off the coast, and was in operation until 1961, when it was replaced by more advanced navigation technology. There used to be a number of beautiful cottages and out buildings, but these were tragically burned down by the forest service in the early ’70s. Today, only the concrete structures of the lighthouse and the fuel house remain.

The trail, such as it is, mainly involves following the coastline. The terrain often is soft sand that slows down your pace to a slog, or rocks that force you to carefully choose each step. There are two large flats along the route that offer solid ground–a welcome respite from the rocks, sand and gravel.

Water is never far away. Even in a dry year like this, we met sources of fresh water every mile or less along the trail — from small rivulets to full-fledged creeks.

Note: in storms and during the rainy season, these creeks can swell to waist-high depth and crossing can be treacherous. 

Where is the Lost Coast?

The Lost Coast Trail in the King Range National Conservation Area is about five hours north of San Francisco. To get to Shelter Cove, take the Garberville exit off Highway 101, heading west on Shelter Cove Road. Right right on Beach Road, and continue about a mile to the Black Sands Beach parking lot. Get Google Maps directions to the Black Sands Beach trailhead.

To reach Mattole Beach on the north end of the Lost Coast, take Lighthouse Road west from Petrolia, all the way to the end. Get Google Maps directions to the Mattole Trailhead.

Note that the drive to either of these trailheads takes patience. It can take 1-1/2 hours to drive from the 101 to Shelter Cove, and the road can be harrowing. It’s all part of the adventure.

The Lost Coast Trail Map

Lost Coast Trail Tips

• Bear canisters are required throughout the King Range National Conservation Area. While we didn’t see any signs of bears, two guys we shared the shuttle with had seen bear tracks on the beach on their last day of the trip. Yes, there are bears on the Lost Coast. Fortunately, you can rent canisters from the ranger station for $5 per canister, per trip at these three locations.
• Where to go when Nature calls… This one blew me away, but the rule on the Lost Coast Trail is to dig a hole on the beach below the high tide mark and make your deposit right there. Everywhere else I’ve ever hiked the rules typically have you do this well away from water, but in this case, the rangers want you to do it in the ocean. In fact, its right on the permit.
• Rangers will check and fine for violations. Violations include not carrying a bear canister, not carrying a permit, or not following the rules regarding campfires. Read the rules, and follow them. We met a ranger on our fourth day, and he checked our permit and canister and actually quizzed us to make sure we read the rules.
• Which direction to hike? North or South? This one is easy. Hike from north to south. The prevailing winds will be at your back. Start at Mattole Beach and head south to Shelter Cove.

Permits

Permits are required to hike the Lost Cost Trail. Check availability at Outdoor Status.

Lost Coast Resources

• Getting to the trailhead is a challenge in itself. You could plan a yo-yo (out-and-back) trip, but that turns it into a challenging 50 mile hike. Most people plan to take a shuttle. There are two shuttle companies that serve the area: Lost Coast Shuttle and Lost Coast Adventures. We used Lost Coast shuttle and were super-pleased with the service. We drove to the Black Sands Beach trailhead on the south end of the trail in Shelter Cove, where the shuttle met us and drove us up and around to the north end of the trail — a windy hour and a half drive. The benefit to this approach is that when you get to the end of the trail, your car is waiting for you, rather than you waiting for the shuttle. The shuttle is pricey, but understandably so since each round trip takes about four hours total. Keep in mind that the more in your group, the lower the overall cost of the shuttle–as long as your group fits in one shuttle.
• GPS user? Download our Lost Coast GPX file.
• Download the King Range Wilderness Map  (8.5 MB PDF)
• Monthly weather averages. Note: it gets wet here during much of the year.

Should you hike the Lost Coast Trail?

Follow the links below for my day-by-day trip report and guide for our Lost Coast backpacking trip. I highly recommend this trail to anyone with a sense of adventure and a love of rugged wilderness.

• Day 1: Mattole Beach to Sea Lion Gulch
• Day 2: Sea Lion Gulch to Spanish Flat
• Day 3: Spanish Flat to Miller Flat
• Day 4: Miller Flat to Shelter Cove

If you’ve got questions about the Lost Coast Trail, let me know in the comments below.

 The magical, mystical Metolius River is one of the many reasons we loved visiting Central Oregon during our spring break road trip. This short river springs from the side of a mountain, has lush forested banks and surreal blue water. Our friend Kolby (aka The Hike Guy) had recommended this trail over dinner in Bend the night before. It was even better than we imagined.

Trail Details

Distance: 4.6 miles
Time: 1.5-2 hours
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation gain: 250 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Spring-Fall

The fish hatchery is working to restore the natural balance, and is itself an interesting destination. Parking is free, and you can wander around the hatchery to see how they transfer fish from tank to tank. Don’t miss the “escapee” pond, where some unusually large fish are enjoying their retirement. The spot is also a favorite hangout for the fish-loving local bald eagles, often seen flying nearby.

From the parking lot at Wizard Falls Fish Hatchery, face south and you’ll see the trailhead for the Metolius River Trail. This trail winds along the western bank of the Metolius, sometimes climbing  the hills where the incline is too steep; other times running right next the river’s edge.

One of the first and most striking features of the Metolius River is the brilliant blue water. It’s crystal clear with an iridescence that is captivating.

We hiked along the trail, sometimes tracking further inland and higher up the hills. The river is flanked by towering pine trees, and lush micro-landscapes along the way.

The real surprise of this out-and-back trail were the falls. These were our destination, and are astounding. Across the fast-moving Metolius springs a waterfall right out of the side of the mountain. There is no stream feeding it — it just appears and cascades into the the river.

Geologists used to believe this water came from an underground spring at nearby Black Butte, but current thinking is that it actually follows underground lava tubes from miles away. Either way, it is remarkable to see a waterfall streaming from the side of a mountain.

Metolius River Trail Map

Photo Gallery

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Metolius River Trail Tips

• Spend some time exploring the fish hatchery. It’s pretty interesting in itself. Don’t miss the “escapee pond.”
• Layer for unexpected changes in weather, and bring the ten essentials.

More Metolius River Resources

• Wizard Falls Fish Hatchery – official website
• GPS user? Download the GPX file (right-click and save as)

Book Recommendation

One of the hiking books that I really liked for the Bend area is Bend, Overall by Scott Cook. This book is written in a fun, casual style but has a lot of trails with some great details.

Highly recommended.

Metolius River Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”97730″]

The Deschutes River Trail is a wonderful river-front loop that starts at the edge of the Old Mill district in Bend, and magically transforms into a remarkable wilderness trail before you know it. This is an out-of-bounds trail — meaning that it’s not in Southern California. In fact, it’s in Bend, Oregon — our third destination from our spring break road trip.

Trail Details

Distance: 3.7 miles
Time: 60-80 min.
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation gain: 50 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Year-round

We had parked near the Deschutes River at the public park and were kind of turned off initially. It started out as a paved path with a lot of moms and strollers. Now I’ve got nothing against moms or strollers, but that wasn’t my idea of a hiking trail. We stuck with it for a little further, and as we passed under the bridge, the pavement ended and the dirt began.

The trail meanders along the pine-forested shore of the Deschutes River, traveling upstream on land that the city was able to negotiate easements for. And while nearby condos peak through the trees on the hills above the river, it really does feel more “wild” than “city.”

The river runs through steep-walled canyon. It was warm enough to get by with just a fleece, but there were still a few patches of snow.

At 0.6 miles we passed under the Reed Market Road bridge, and the trail becomes much more natural.

It’s not uncommon to see geese, ducks and other birds feeding along the banks of the Deschutes River.

Just before the 2 mile mark, you reach a pedestrian bridge that crosses the river. This is the turnaround point; the trail does not continue further upstream.

While the turnaround point might sound almost like an out-and-back route in concept, in reality, it feels more like a loop. The scenery and views are entirely different returning along the opposite bank of the Deschutes. This is also where we encountered the biggest climb on an otherwise gentle, almost flat trail.

At the 2.5 mile mark, the trail follows a short boardwalk around a underground hydroelectric power plant. You’ll see the signs to “stay on the trail” and it’s obvious where the water from the plant rejoins the Deschutes. What’s remarkable is how they were able to build this in such an unobtrusive manner. If I didn’t know there was a hydroelectric power plant there, I might not have even noticed. It blends right in with the natural setting of the river.

At 3.0 miles, the trail becomes a paved path, once again passing under the Reed Market Road bridge and heading through Farewell Bend Park. There are restrooms here, and a rock-climbing playground for children. They start young in Bend.

The Deschutes River Trail was an easy, scenic hike. It’s right in town, so you’ll see locals hitting the trail for a lunch-time trail run. It’s close enough to the Old Mill shopping district that some might opt to hike while others go shopping. And there are several great breweries in the area to whet your whistle afterwards.

Deschutes River Trail Map

Photo Gallery

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Bend Resources

• Bend Parks & Recreation Trail List
• Old Mill District – They’ve got a great REI!
• Read more about our trip to Bend, Oregon

Book Recommendation

One of the hiking books that I really liked for the Bend area is Bend, Overall by Scott Cook. This book is written in a fun, casual style but has a lot of trails with some great details. Highly recommended.

Bend Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”97701″]

What a road trip! We began in San Diego as guests of Honda. Celebrated a birthday in the Bay Area, exploring Marin County. And we were just getting warmed up!

The third leg of our spring break road trip took us up to beautiful Bend, Oregon. We said goodbye to San Francisco and cruised through Northern California. Neither of us had ever been to Bend, but we had heard great things about the area and were really looking forward to checking it out.

To get from Bend from San Francisco, we traveled about 500 miles. Lance (our ’05 Xterra) kept us comfortable and audiobooks kept us entertained. Once we passed Shasta, we peeled off Interstate 5 at Weed and were greeted with snow flurries. The flurries were short-lived, and we made good time in the relative quiet of Highway 97 — our road to Bend.

The Glory Hole

One of my favorite parts about road trips are the off-the-wall sights seen along the way. Such was the glory hole at Grass Lake.

What is a glory hole? Don’t Google it. Just trust me that in geological context, it’s a feature akin to a bathtub drain. When water accumulates in Grass Lake, it drains through this depression and into underground lava tubes. According to the sign, no one is sure where the water goes from there. Weird and cool.

Bend!

We cruised into Bend, Oregon at dusk. We booked a perfect little studio in an home via AirBnB right in the historic center of the city. Parked and unpacked, we walked down to the Bond Street Public House for dinner and to sample the beer from one of the best known local breweries: Deschutes.

The have a lot of beers on tap, including some special casket ales. Our tasting included the Mirror Pond Pale Ale, the Cinder Cone Red, Heart Throb Dubbel, Double Impact IPA, Black Butte Porter, and the Nitro Obsidian Stout. My faves? Heart Throb Dubbel — a really nice Beligian-style Dubbel that was ever-so-slightly sweet with a nice dry finish; and the Black Butte Porter — creamy with notes of chocolate and coffee.

Oh, and the food was good, too.

We had read about Bend, and talked to friends about Bend. We’d even taken a virtual stroll down Bend thanks to Google Streetview. But you can’t really get a feel for the chemistry of a place without being there in person. In that sense, we weren’t sure what to expect.

Walking through downtown Bend was awesome. Living in L.A., the closest I get to the small town experience is in some of the neighborhoods — each of which has their own unique character and charm. Bend was charming in an organic sense. Small town with a great, outdoorsy vibe that made us feel right at home.

One of the more notable characteristics of downtown Bend was what we didn’t see. No big-chain fast-food joints. Lots of mom-and-pop local enterprises serving the community with a personal touch. It’s awesome.

Snow!

It was April 1st, and our first full day in Bend. Mother Nature decided that the best prank to play on a couple of visiting Southern Californians would be to drop a pile of snow on our heads. We loved it!

We frolicked with Frosty the Snowman at Drake Park. We hung out sipping lattes and reading books at Dudley’s Bookshop Cafe while big, fluffy snowflakes blanketed downtown Bend. And then we did what anyone would do on a snowy rest day — headed to Crux Fermentation Project. 

I’d heard good things about Crux from Rebecca at Calipidder, and I was not disappointed.

Our tasting, from left to right (and dig the great oak casket taster tray): Prowell Springs Pre-Prohibition Lager, Crux Pilsner, Crux Marzen, Ella (a great double IPA), Peated Scotch Ale, and Impasse (favorites in bold).

But my favorite isn’t pictured here, and I enjoyed an entire pint of it: Vicky’s Got a Secret, an experimental double IPA that made a Crux fan out of me.

Hiking in Bend

The snow melted, the sun emerged, and we hit one of the most popular local trails — the Deschutes River Trail. This is a really easy loop that follows the Deschutes River. What’s remarkable is that it starts on the edge of the old mill district, and quickly feels like you’ve stepped into the wilderness. Of course, it’s proximity also means that it’s a popular trail for local runners out for a quick workout, so the illusion wasn’t quite complete. But it is a very scenic trail and a model for other cities looking to provide outdoor recreation — right in town.

Meeting Friends in Bend, Old and New

One of my hiking friends (whom I’ve yet to hike with) relocated to Bend after his 2011 hike on the Pacific Crest Trail. Kolby Kirk — aka The Hike Guy — met us with Jasmine for dinner at another Bend favorite: McMenamin’s Old St. Francis School. This former school is now a boutique hotel, restaurant, theater and pub. This is a fun place, and the restaurant is lively with good food and great beer. They brew their own beer, too, though the real treat was learning about the local’s fave: O’Kanes. This is just one of four bars at the McMenamin’s complex, and it’s tucked away in the former church parking lot. Now it’s a beautiful patio space with fire pits to sit by while you enjoy a beverage and swap stories.

We had thought about heading to ever-popular Smith Rock, but with the snow and ice, Kolby had a better idea. Our last day in Bend we would hike at the Wizard Falls Fish Hatchery and see the headwaters of the Metolius River. I wasn’t sure what to expect — and hadn’t heard of either — but trusted the recommendation. Once again, we weren’t disappointed.

The Metolius River Trail

About a 45 minute drive northwest of Bend lies Black Butte. Just beyond Black Butte lies the magical Metolius River. This river is remarkable for many reasons, but mainly because at its headwaters the Metolius literally springs from the side of a mountain. Not a trickle, but a full-blown river, just percolating out the side of a mountain. I’ve never seen anything like it.

Further downriver is the Wizard Falls Fish Hatchery, where they are working to reintroduce native species of trout and salmon that were lost due to dams built over the years, cutting off migration paths for entire lines of fish. It was pretty cool to see how they raised the fish, moving them from tank to tank as they get larger. But the monster “escapees” in the nearby pond (a favorite dining spot for the local bald eagles) were impressive.

We hiked the Metolius River Trail — an out-and-back hike that darts along the western bank of the Metolius to yet another remarkable first — a spring-fed waterfall. While this trail along the blue waters of the Metolius is beautiful in its own right, the sight of a waterfall appearing out of nowhere was surreal.

More Craft Beer, Please

Untappd

Looking for a great way to keep track of the beer you like (and discover new ones)? Check out Untappd. Let’s connect!

We did our darndest, with stops at Deschutes Brewery, Crux Fermentation Project, McMenamin’s Old St. Francis School, Old Mill Brew Wërks, Three Creeks Brewing Company and Worthy Brewing. Not a bad brewery in the bunch, but less than half of the entire Bend Ale Trail. I guess that makes us Ale Trail section hikers.

Home to Los Angeles

Bend would be the third and final leg of our road trip. We loved our time in Bend. It’s a great town and a veritable playground of outdoor activities, with great climbing, hiking, biking, skiing, kayaking, stand-up paddling…you get the idea. We headed back to LA and promised to return and spend more time exploring Bend in the not-too-distant future.

This short, family-friendly trail was an impromptu birthday peak bagged by my mom, my wife and I as part of the second part of our spring break road trip. It’s barely over half a mile round trip, but gains at a steady pace, climbing over 250 feet in a quarter mile. And while it might not win you respect for the mileage, the Plank Walk Trail rewards you with stunning views of San Francisco and the bay out to the Pacific Ocean from atop Mt. Tamalpais.

Trail Details

Distance: 0.6 miles
Time: 30 min.
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation gain: 261 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Year-round
Driving directions

While the trail is short and I’d describe it as easy, it actually is fairly steep and sections are rugged. Young kids can manage with supervision, but don’t let them wander off-trail!

The Plank Walk Trail

From the end of the parking lot you can’t miss the start of the Plank Walk Trail. It’s the trail literally made of planks (at least for the first section).

The first 0.1 miles of the trail is paved with wood planks — old railroad ties, actually — and bordered on the downhill side with a hand rail, making it look deceptively easy. You quickly gain elevation and the views expand.

Soon you look up and see the fire lookout tower the sits atop the East Peak of Mt. Tamalpais. The views are breathtaking. On a clear day, visitors can see the Farallon Islands 25 miles out to sea, the Marin County hills, San Francisco and the bay, hills and cities of the East Bay, and Mount Diablo. On rare occasions, the Sierra Nevada’s snow-covered mountains can be seen 150 miles away. 

It was windy and chilly on this particular spring day, and we took photos, soaked in the views, and headed back down the trail, where the scrub protected us from the chilling winds.

Back at the visitor center, we checked out the old gravity cars and imagined what it was like when the old trail carried people to the lodge up here.

Mt. Tamalpais is worth a visit, even for a short little hike like this. The views are unique, and it’s easy to string together a series of micro-adventures into a full-day itinerary. For all the times I’ve visited the bay area, I had never before been to Mt. Tam. Now I can say to you — take a hike… up Mt Tam! It’s worth it.

Plank Walk Trail Map to Mt. Tamalpais East Peak

Photo Gallery

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Mt. Tamalpais Resources

• Mt. Tamalpais State Park is open 7am to sundown daily
• Visitor Center
• Friends of Mt. Tam – great resource with a calendar of scheduled events including guided hikes in the park
• History of the Gravity Cars

Mt. Tamalpais Weather Forecast

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And now, your moment of zen…

On Saturday morning, we enjoyed a final rooftop brunch at the wonderful Andaz Hotel, bid adieu to the fun Honda Fit and San Diego, and pointed the Xterra north. Our destination? San Francisco.

My mom lives not far from Washington Square in North Beach — a neighborhood with the highest density of Italian cafes outside of Rome. We’re lucky to be able to visit. And she had a birthday surprise in store for me.

We made good time cruising up Interstate 5, with good weather and light traffic almost the entire way. We hit rain as we approached Livermore, slowing us down a bit. Being a Saturday, traffic wasn’t quite as bad as it could’ve been, and we pulled into the garage about 5:30 that evening.

The surprise? We headed out for southern food and live blues at Biscuits and Blues.

Earl Thomas and the Rhumboogies were fantastic, and they brought along Taryn Donath on keyboards — who we had previously heard at one of our favorite blues haunts in San Clemente – Iva Lee’s!

Sunday we headed over the always-beautiful Golden Gate Bridge and into Marin County. Last night’s rain had cleared and the skies were a vibrant blue, punctuated with photo-perfect clouds. We didn’t have a specific hike in mind, or a particular summit to reach. We were simply enjoying a perfect spring day in Marin.

We thought of heading to the over-crowded Muir Woods, but would’ve had to take the shuttle in (not a good sign). We drove on to the coast and the Muir Beach Overlook. It’s a short walk from the parking area to the overlook — no more than a few hundred yards — but the views go for miles. There’s a small parking lot with free parking, a few picnic tables and some short trails. One heading out to the overlook, one that loops through the pines and a third that heads north to the beach.

This is a beautiful spot to stop and appreciate the Marin coastline.

Just a few miles north, we reached Stinson Beach. It’s a broad beach and the wind was brisk and strong. Families vacationing in seaside rentals were flying kites. A few hardy souls braved the icy cold waters, learning to surf or body boarding on waves that barely curled. We walked — not hiked — for two miles down and back along the beach, our senses filled by the smells and sounds of the ocean. It’s a beautiful beach for walking…or flying a kite.

Feeling recharged by the walk on the beach, we headed up to Mount Tamalpais. At 2,574 feet Mt. Tam is the highest point in the Marin hills. It’s also generally regarded as the birthplace of the mountain bike.

We parked at the saddle and hiked the short trail to the summit of Mt. Tam, with 360-degree views of the San Francisco Bay, the city and out to the Pacific Ocean. Well worth the trek and a very family-friendly hike.

Can you spot San Francisco in the panorama below?

Mt. Tam has a rich history, including one-time home to the former Muir Woods Railway — once known as the “Crookedest Railroad in the World.” The narrow gauge train climbed nearly to the top, where there was a lodge for guests. The train would tow behind a few gravity cars — so called because they had no engine or other form of propulsion. As many as 30 thrill-seekers would pile onto these cars and a brakeman would keep the speed down just enough to keep the car on the tracks for the ride down.

At this point, we’d worked up an appetite. We drove down through Muir Woods and out to Tiburon for lunch at the popular Sam’s Anchor Cafe. This place is usually crowded, especially on a beautiful day like this. Maybe it was birthday kismet, but we were seated right away, at a great table right next to the marina.

Not a bad lunchtime view, eh? And a perfect way to cap our Marin adventure.

Back in North Beach, we dove into Mom’s amazing made-from-scratch chocolate cake. And a very happy birthday it was!

The next stop on our Spring Break Road Trip? Bend, Oregon.

Road Trip Resources

• Bisquits & Blues – Directions
• Muir Beach Overlook – History | Directions
• Stinson Beach – General Info | Directions
• Mt. Tamalpais – Plank Walk Trail | Friends of Mt. Tam | Directions
• Sam’s Anchor Cafe – Directions

Enchanted Rock is a pink granite dome that rises 425 feet above the surrounding area in central Texas — but it’s just the exposed part of the largest batholiths in North America. The Enchanted Rock batholith stretches 62 miles — mostly underground. Humans have been visiting this rock for 12,000 years, and some believe it has spiritual significance.

Trail Details

Distance: 1.3 miles
Time: 60 min.
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 390 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Sept.-May

We hiked the Summit Trail at Enchanted Rock on a recent trip to Texas. I had never been hiking in Texas, and I was eager to explore. We headed north from San Antonio towards Fredricksburg — a small town with German heritage — and at 18 miles away — the closest to Enchanted Rock. It really does feel like the proverbial middle of nowhere.

The trail starts at the end of the parking lot. You descend stairs to a small creek, then follow the signs as the trail picks it’s way up towards the base of the pink granite dome.

At the 0.2 mile mark, the Summit Trail essentially disappears in the solid granite of Enchanted Rock. Not to worry. Just keep heading “up” and you’ll be going in the right direction. Climbing “The Rock” is roughly equivalent to climbing the stairs in a 30- to 40-story building, and while it’s not particularly dangerous or difficult, I would label this a moderately difficult hike if for no other reason than to warn away non-hikers.

At the top, the Rock levels off to a large, fairly flat top dotted with small vernal pools. These pools are formed from pockets in the granite, and support small and very fragile ecosystems that take decades to develop. Do not step in the pools or disturb the plants or wildlife. Take pictures and leave it at that.

On this frosty winter day, the vernal pools were glazed with a frosty coat of ice. And me in my Sport Kilt. Brrrr…

The top of Enchanted Rock is so rounded, that it was challenging to find the USGS benchmark at the summit. We persisted, and found it near the western shoulder of the dome.

The return trip is a little tricky. Because there is no path — nor were there cairns to mark the way — you have to rely on your own keen sense of direction to retrace your steps. Joan and her sister headed down about 10 minutes before me, while I hung around taking photos and soaking in the views. I was a little surprised when I got to the bottom and beat them back to the trailhead. It turns out, they went down the “wrong” way. Fortunately, they hit the Loop Trail which runs completely around the dome and enjoyed some different scenery on their way back.

Enchanted Rock is proof that there is hiking in Texas. And while there may have not been towering spires, it possessed it’s own calm beauty that made the trip and the hike worth taking.

Enchanted Rock Summit Trail Map

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Enchanted Rock Tips

• Entrance fees are $7 per adult. Children under 12 are free.
• If the park fills up, they don’t allow more people in. And since it’s 18 miles from the nearest town, that could be a long, disappointing detour. Leave early and call ahead to make sure it’s open.
• Lunch in Fredricksburg! We ate at the Old German Bakery and Restaurant.

More Enchanted Rock Resources

• Enchanted Rock State Natural Area – official website
• Printable Park Map – PDF
• Follow Enchanted Rock on Twitter
• Enchanted Rock Legends – Texas State Historical Association

Enchanted Rock Weather Forecast

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Pinnacles National Park is a gem hidden in plain sight. It’s one of the youngest National Parks in the system–having been promoted to NP status in 2013–yet many of the trails date back over a hundred years. Back then Schuyler Hain — the “Father of Pinnacles” led tours up Bear Valley to the caves. He spoke out in support of preserving Pinnacles, and in 1908, President Theodore Roosevelt established Pinnacles as a National Monument.

Trail Details

Distance: 4.63 miles
Time: 2 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 1588 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Year-round
Download the GPX

We began our out-and-back hike at the Peaks View trailhead, hiking a short distance on the Bench Trail before heading up the woodsy Bear Gulch Trail and eventually ascending to the Condor Gulch Overlook.

Getting to Pinnacles National Park

To say that Pinnacles National Park is off the beaten path would be an understatement. It over an hour away from any major freeway, and I was happy that it’s not surrounded by development (yet). Heading from San Francisco it’s a pleasant drive down Highway 101, then south on Highway 25. We stopped to pickup some lunch in Hollister, and made our way to the park.

Getting to Pinnacles from Los Angeles is another matter. It’s about 80 miles to Interstate 5 with very little civilization inbetween, so be sure you’ve fueled up before heading to the park. Driving home to LA was about  260 miles and  4-1/2 hours driving time. The Road Less Traveled? We found it. Beautiful back roads that most folks never see as they speed up the Central Valley.

Note that there is a eastern entrance and a western entrance to Pinnacles NP — and never the twain shall meet. For this hike, you should enter the park from the east. 

Look up turn-by-turn driving directions to the eastern entrance here on Google Maps.

Did You Know?

Rhyolitic breccia is the rock that the High Peaks and other rock formations at Pinnacles are made of. Rhyolite breccia is composed of lava sand, ash, and angular chunks of rock that were explosively ejected from the Pinnacles Volcano.

Hiking to the Condor Gulch Overlook

Many people drive back to Bear Gulch where there is a seasonal visitor center and some trailhead parking. On the day after Thanksgiving, the lot was full, and we had to park closer to the entrance. My initial disappointment at having to adjust our plan quickly turned into delight. The relatively level Bench Trail provides stunning views of the peaks as in wanders beside the dry (in November) Chalone Creek.

We followed this to the first of many bridges we would cross as we wound our way up the Bear Gulch Trail.

Bear Gulch was incredibly scenic. A narrow canyon with steep walls and a small creek, it felt very much like fall with crunchy leaves and cool air. There were a few small waterfalls in late November, but other sections of the creek had dried up completely. In springtime it would be amazing.

At 1.4 miles we reached the the parking area at Bear Gulch, where you’ll find a number of park buildings including a seasonal visitor center and a parking lot. There are restroom facilities immediately across from the parking, and the Condor Gulch Trail begins just north of there. Follow the signs up… up… and up. You’ll be climbing steadily from here to the overlook, gaining about 760 feet in just under a mile.

At the 2.7 mile mark (or about 1 mile from the Bear Gulch parking area), we reached the Condor Gulch Overlook. The overlook provides a great view back down through Condor Gulch. You can see where the water has carved out depressions in the volcanic rock, and after a storm this would be alive with waterfalls.

The Overlook would be our turnaround point for this short out-and-back hike. We soaked in the views and appreciated the fact that our mostly uphill climb was going to be an easy downhill jaunt back to the trailhead.

I took a few moments to capture some macros of the lichen with my iPhone and my Olloclip.

Final Thoughts

Joan and I loved Pinnacles National Park, and next time will camp here so we have more time to hike and explore. We will return to hike the High Peaks Trail, and visit the caves (not always open due to the mating season for the bats).

Pinnacles NP is fairly small compared to the “big” National Parks and even though it was busy on the holiday weekend, it didn’t feel crowded. It’s off the beaten path, and that no doubt contributes to the smaller “feel” of the park. I liked that.

Condor Gulch Overlook Trail Map

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Pinnacles National Park Tips

• Get there before 10am on busy days (any holiday weekend). This is a no-brainer at most National Parks, but I had never been to Pinnacles before and wasn’t sure what to expect. As it turns out, the parking nearest the caves in Bear Gulch is pretty limited and fills up quickly.
• This place gets hot and dry in the summer. Bring more water than you think you’ll need.
• Pinnacles is an outstanding deal as far as National Parks go. It’s only $5 to get in, and the pass is good for seven days.

Pinnacles National Park Resources

• Pinnacles National Park – official website
• Campsite Reservations – managed via Recreation.gov

Pinnacles National Park Weather Forecast

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I love San Francisco. Don’t get me wrong. I love LA, too. But as far as cities go, SF is one of my favorites. Last week Joan and I drove up to visit family for Thanksgiving. My mom is a fantastic cook, and I knew we’d have to get out and stretch our legs after our early dinner so we could at least partially justify that apple pie we’d enjoy later that day.

Trail Details

Distance: 1.5 miles
Time: 60 min.
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation gain: 443 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Year-round

Getting to Lands End

Lands End is located on the northwester corner of San Francisco, and is stewarded by the National Parks Service. We started by parking in the lot at the end of El Camino Del Mar (turn-by-turn directions on Google Maps).

When we went on Thanksgiving Day, there was plenty of free parking available.

The Lands End Trail

Head toward the coast, and follow a long flight of stairs down to the Lands End Trail. At the bottom of the stairs, you’ll follow the trail to the right (east), but take your time to enjoy the views.

There are a number of overlooks along the Lands End trail, but much of your view will be filtered through trees.

At the 0.56 mile mark, we followed the steps down toward Mile Rock Beach. You’ll descend (and later ascend) about 180 feet down to the rocky beach.

Over the years, many ships have wrecked on the rocks off this section of coast. It’s easy to see why. Numerous rocks poke up above the surface, hinting at the treachery lurking just below.

There are a number of informal (and possibly illegal?) fire rings setup on this beach. We explored a bit, then took the trail up to the Eagle Point Labyrinth.

During the early 20th century, this was part of a military base, and this point was fortified with guns to guard the entrance to the San Francisco Bay. Now children play in the stone labyrinth, and everyone enjoys the amazing views.

From this point, you have a great view back down on Mile Rock Beach.

We wound our way back to the steps and up to the Lands End trail, then headed back to the car and the promise of Mom’s apple pie.

The Lands End Trail normally is open clear through to the ritzy Sea Cliff neighborhood, but it was close for repairs along that final segment. It’s scheduled to reopen sometime in January 2014.

Hiking through Lands End feels light years away from San Francisco, but it’s not. Go explore it. But don’t forget your camera or your sense of adventure.

Lands End Trail Map

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Lands End Resources

• Golden Gate Conservancy’s Lands End Overview
• Eagle Point Labyrinth on Yelp

Lands End Weather Forecast

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