This is a short little hike along Saint Mary Lake on the east side of Glacier National Park. The out-and-back route begins and ends at Going To The Sun Point. The distance makes it a very family-friendly hike, with big views of Saint Mary Lake, the mountains towering above you on all sides, wildflowers dotting the trailside, a rustic bridge across a rushing creek, and the namesake Baring Falls. Even if you’re yearning for big miles, this little hike is worth the short detour.

Trail Details

Distance: 1.6 miles
Time: < 1 hour
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation gain: 50 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: June-October

There’s a decent sized parking lot at Going to the Sun Point, which is also popular for picnics and just soaking in the views. The trail begins heading (appropriately) toward the sun, following the shores of Saint Mary Lake as you make your way west.

You pass through sections scarred by wildfires, where new growth and wildflowers abound.

After roughly 0.8 miles, you reach Baring Creek. The falls are very close, but you’ll want to cross the rustic wooden bridge to get the best view.

When you cross the bridge, turn right alongside the creek for your best view of the falls.

A lot of water was pushing over Baring Falls, and the mist was chilly. While it’s not the biggest waterfall around, it still quite scenic, especially so close to the lake.

When hiking trails in Glacier National Park, be sure to check with the ranger station for the latest information and warnings about bear sightings. We didn’t see any bears on this trail, but we did see about five bears in Glacier National Park. They are there, and it’s wise to follow the park service recommendations to keep both you and the bears safe.

Baring Falls Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Additional Resources

• Official Glacier National Park website

Glacier National Park Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”59417″]

Originally hiked on June 23, 2017 with Jason.

Kintla Lake is a beautiful, remote location in the northwest corner of Glacier National Park. It sits just above 4,000 feet, and lies just a few miles from the Canadian border. The Boulder Pass Trail starts here on the western outlet of Kintla Lake.

Backpacking over Boulder Pass to Waterton Lake makes for an epic backpacking trip, but you can get a taste of the trip hiking a portion of the trail as an out-and-back route.

Trail Details

Distance: 7.4 miles
Time: 2.5-3 hours
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation gain/loss: +390’/-390′
Dogs: No
When to go: Mid-June to October

Getting to Kintla Lake

Kintla Lake is about 2-1/2 hours north of Kalispell, Montana. To reach Kintla Lake, we entered Glacier National Park from the West Glacier entrance, and headed north. When you reach Polebridge, the road turns to gravel. We travelled about 16 miles of gravel road to reach the trailhead.

Any vehicle can make it back there, but you’ll have to allow additional time for the slower speeds on gravel roads. Get turn-by-turn directions on Google Maps.

When you reach the trailhead campground, read the signs carefully. Campsite parking is reserved for campers.

Hiking the Trail

This trails begins near the western shore of Kintla Lake, running parallel to the northern shoreline through a forested slope bursting with wildflowers.

There are numerous views through the trees that look across the lake toward Long Knife Peak and Parke Peak. Just beyond the jagged peaks to the northeast lies Canada’s Akamina-Kishinena Provincial Park and Waterton Lakes National Park.

The trail is well shaded, with filtered sunlight providing a perfect environment for wildflowers to thrive, including mariposa, wild roses and glacier lilies.

At 3.7 miles we reached the barely perceptible junction with the Kintla Trail, which begins at the North Fork of the Flathead River and climbs over Starvation Ridge to this junction. The tread of the Kintla Trail was very faint, and only evident after carefully spying blazes on trees marking the path.

This was our turnaround point, as I had a plane to catch out of Kalispell. Hiking this trail as an out-and-back gives you flexibility to hike further or shorter distances. This is definitely an area that I will come back and explore further.

Kintla Lake Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Kintla Lake Tips

• Grizzly bears live in this area. Avoid solo travel and carry bear spray.
• There are campsites available at the far eastern end of Kintla Lake, making this a great option for an overnight backpacking or kayaking trip.
• After your hike, be sure to stop at the Polebridge Mercantile for their famous huckleberry bear claws. The “Merc” was built back in 1914, and you can soak in the history strolling through the shop.

Polebridge Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”59928″]

Originally hiked on June 26, 2017 with Jason Fitzpatrick. 

The hike to Paradise Point on Two Medicine Lake is a short, family-friendly hike to a viewpoint with amazing views of the jagged peaks of Glacier National Park. Located on the east side of Glacier National Park, Two Medicine Lake was very near where I would be running the Glacier Half Marathon, and on the day before the race, my friend Jason and I hit this and a few other short hikes just to keep the legs loose.

Trail Details

Distance: 1.2 miles
Time: 30 min.
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation gain: 160 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Year-round

At the trailhead, we saw a sign warning us of bear activity in the area. We had bear spray, but stuck fairly close together (as recommended when hiking in Glacier National Park).

It’s an easy trail to follow. Bear right at the fork (towards the lake) and soon you reach Paradise Point. There’s no camping, and there’s not even room for a lot of people, but the short peninsula does provide great views in all directions.

Wildflowers lined the trail, especially Bear Grass – a Seussian bloom that’s a common sight in Glacier National Park. The scientific name is Xerophyllum tenax, and it’s in the corn lily family. Why is it called bear grass? Maybe it provides a nice hiding place for bears? If you know the origin, let me know in the comments.

Any guesses why this is called bear grass?

On our way back, we actually spotted said bear, digging for grubs. The adolescent black bear was about 20 yards off the trail and didn’t pay any attention to us. Sadly, he didn’t even stop foraging to pose nicely.

That black splotch is actually the bear.

Paradise Point Trail Map

Paradise Point Trail Tips & Resources

• Be bear aware and safe. Carry bear spray, travel in a group, and do not approach bears on the trail.
• Always follow the seven core Leave No Trace principles.
• Check the official Glacier National Park website for latest bulletins and conditions.
• GPS user? Download our GPX file for this hike.

Glacier National Park Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”59434″]

Originally hiked on 6/23/17 with Jason Fitzpatrick.

The hike to Avalanche Lake might be the best “first hike” in Glacier National Park. In June, I flew in to Kalispell, Montana – the airport gateway to Glacier National Park – to run in the inaugural Glacier Half Marathon with my friend Jason. We planned a few days before and after to see as much of the park as we could. Our first stop? Heading into the west entrance of the park and getting a quick hike in.

One of the first stops was Lake McDonald, with epic views of the distant crags beckoning you to explore further.

Lake McDonald is like a portal into Glacier National Park, with the distant view of jagged peaks beckoning you to go deeper.

Getting There

Trail Details

Distance: 6.2 miles
Time: 2 hours
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation gain: 676 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Summer

Hiking to Avalanche Lake

The trailhead begins on the south side of Going to the Sun Road at Avalanche Creek. Some sections begin as a boardwalk, but it quickly becomes a well-travelled dirt path.

Avalanche Creek is a beautiful cascade lined by tall pines and lush greenery. Many people hike only as far as the cascades, but the full hike to the lake is well worth your time.

The trail is rich with wildlife, including not-so-shy deer and bears. This very trail was closed for two days prior to the day we hiked it due to bear activity along the trail.

Once you reach the lake, find your way to the beach near the west side of the outlet. Chance are good that you’ll see many people also ogling this beautiful, glacier-carved cirque. Take some time to soak it in, but be sure to follow the trail to the far end of the lake where you’ll find fewer people and a fresh perspective.

When you’ve had your fill of this beautiful lake, retrace your steps around the lake and follow the trail back down along Avalanche Creek to the trailhead.

Avalanche Lake Trail Map

Avalanche Lake Tips

• Be bear aware and safe. Carry bear spray and do not approach bears on the trail.
• Always follow the seven core Leave No Trace principles.
• Sturdy hiking shoes with good tread are recommended. This trail is often slick with moisture.
• Check the official Glacier National Park website for latest bulletins and conditions.
• GPS user? Download our GPX file for this hike.

Glacier National Park Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”59921″]

Originally hiked on June 22, 2017. Thanks to Jason Fitzpatrick for hiking with me and introducing me to Glacier National Park. 

The Confluence Overlook Trail in the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park takes you away from the crowds and through a maze of slick-rock canyons to the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers.

Trail Details

Distance: 11 miles
Time: 5-6 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 50 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Spring or Fall

As it turns out, there are no established campsites along the Confluence Overlook Trail, and only one permit is issued per day for an overnight group. Because there are no established campsites, you are required to camp off-trail on slick-rock, where your impact is minimized. In other words, I would have the whole place to myself. I told her to sign me up!

Getting There

This route is in the North Needles area of the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park. The nearest town is Moab–about 75 miles away. You’ll stop at the Needles District Visitors Center to pickup your permit–$30 at the time. Follow the main road from the visitor’s center to it’s end and you’ll be at the trailhead.

The Trail

This out-and-back route requires careful attention to cairns for navigation. The “trail” often crosses slickrock, climbs up and down improbable ledges that require some scrambling, and can be tricky to follow when you happen to miss a cairn. You could easily get lost back here if you aren’t mindful. It is a quiet, special place.

The trailhead begins just past the Slickrock Loop Trail–at the end of the paved road–and runs 5.5 miles to the edge of the canyon where you have a spectacular view of the confluence.

A large sign provides an overview of the trail and marks the start of the trail, which begins by winding down into a small canyon, following cairn to cairn. No sooner do you reach the bottom than you begin climbing, quite literally. Sections of this trail require careful hand-over-foot scrambling that make it unsuitable for small children or anyone squeamish about heights.

Climbing up the opposite side of the first canyon, you reach this window-like view over Canyonlands.

The trail continues in this same manner, climbing down, across, and up out of one canyon, then another. Sometimes you’ll have a ladder to assist you. Cairns are carefully placed along the entire route to help keep you on track. In many places, the trail is difficult to see without them.

At the 1.5 mile mark, you enter a sandy wash that you follow for almost a mile before climbing again over slickrock.

Climbing up and down can be tricky. Some of the sections are steep with rock-hopping and light scrambling required. At the 4 mile mark, you reach a meadow. The trail crosses a jeep trail and continues through the meadow for a mile, reaching a junction with Cyclone Canyon Trail. Keep right to rejoin the jeep trail, which you follow to the left (west) for 1/2 mile. At the end of the jeep trail you’ll find a rare bit of shade, a pit toilet and a picnic table. And you’re almost to the overlook.

Climbing the final 1/2 mile to the overlook the terrain began to fall away and the views open up.

And finally, you find yourself standing 1,000 feet above the Colorado River.

[vr url=https://socalhiker.net//wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Confluence-Overlook-360.jpg view=360]

Soak in the views and the energy, and prepare for the trip back. In my case, I was going to be sleeping out here. I had to  backtrack across the jeep trail and at least another 1/2 mile past that. As there are no established campsites (thankfully!),  you find a flat space atop the slickrock where you are less likely to cause harm to the fragile environment. I ended up hiking about nine miles to a section of slickrock, then climbed up and off trail. The views extended for miles in every direction.

Pitching my tent, boiling water for dinner (vegetable korma from Good To-Go; highly recommended). Watching the sun set, and the stars pop out.

[vr url=https://socalhiker.net//wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Camp-on-Slickrock-360.jpg view=360]

I awoke before sunrise, and the sky was already light. It was cold, but not freezing, and I sat in my sleeping bag and watched the light show, purple and pink, yellow and blue hues changing by the minute.

I fired up the Jetboil and heated water for Starbucks Via and drank it all in.

The 2-mile hike back to the trailhead went quickly in the cooler morning air with a lighter pack (with less food and water).

This was a short trip as far as backpack trips go, and could have easily been hiked as a day hike. But experiencing this place in the afternoon, evening, stillness of night, and the first light of morning, was well worth the time.

Confluence Overlook Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Confluence Overlook Trail Tips

• This trail has no shade to speak of. Wear sun protection and be mindful of the weather forecast.
• There is no water on the trail. I carried four liters, for both drinking and cooking, with another two gallons in my car.

More Canyonlands National Park Resources

• I carried and recommend the National Geographic Illustrated Map for Canyonlands National Park
• Canyonlands National Park – official website

Canyonlands National Park Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”84532″]

Arches National Park in Utah attracts over one million visitors a year with it’s namesake geologic wonders. Most visitors head to the easily reached roadside arches and viewpoints. In contrast, the Devil’s Garden Loop is considered the only “hiker’s hike” in the park.

Trail Details

Distance: 7.2 miles
Time: 4-6 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 470 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Year-round
Download GPX

Getting There

Arches National Park is located just west of Moab (get directions via Google Maps) on the easter edge of Utah. The park has no food or lodging, but both are found in nearby Moab. Moab is about a ten hour drive from Los Angeles and it’s a gateway to both Arches and nearby Canyonlands National Park. There is one main road into Arches National Park, and the Devil’s Garden trailhead is all the way at the end of that road. It takes about 30 minutes to reach from the park entrance, if you can manage the trip without stopping to gawk at the beautiful rock formations. It took me closer to 90 minutes, and it was worth every stop.

When to Go

This area gets hot in the summer and cold in the winter. Spring and fall are ideal times to visit. To hike the Devils Garden trail, you would be smart to start early. The trailhead parking fills up, but if you get here early, you can catch the sun rising over the La Sal Mountains and beat the crowds to the trail. You’ll also enjoy cooler morning temperatures.

I hiked the trail on October 18th starting a little before 8am. I had no trouble getting parking and once I passed Landscape Arch, the crowds thinned considerably. I still was able to catch the sunrise over the La Sal Mountains and check out some of the other sites on the way to the trailhead.

Trail Description

The Devils Garden Loop has several spur trails that total about nine miles of hiking.  Note that the trails to Landscape Arch, Pine Tree Arch and Tunnel Arch are well maintained and family-friendly, but beyond that, you’ll see signs warning of the “primitive trail.” Most of this loop is not suitable to young kids or anyone uncomfortable with heights or navigating from cairn to cairn over slick-rock. And because of the steep, slick surfaces on sections, it’s also inadvisable in rain, snow or icy conditions.

The trailhead is easy to find, and there are pit toilets and water available. It’s advisable to carry at least a liter of water in temperate weather; more if it’s hot. You’ll also need snacks, sunscreen, a hat and the ten essentials.

Each junction is well-signed, though there are some sections of the trail which require you to follow cairns to navigate. It’s important to stick to the designated trails, as soil crust is fragile and supports tiny organisms critical to desert life.

I recommend hiking the loop in a clockwise direction for the best views and fewer crowds, beginning with the famous Landscape Arch. 

Landscape Arch

Landscape Arch, measuring 306 feet from base to base, is the longest arch in the park and the fifth longest arch in the world. It’s an easy 1.5 miles to the arch, and the majority of visitors to Devil’s Garden turn around here.

In 1991 a rock slab 60 feet long, 11 feet wide and four feet thick fell from the arch, and at some point in the future, the arch will likely collapse. Since that time, the park has closed the trail that once led directly beneath the impressive span.

From the Landscape Arche viewpoint, the trail begins a climb up slick-rock to Partition Arch. The photo below shows the view looking back down the “trail” just climbed.

While the namesake arches are the main attraction in the park, pay attention to the little details and you’ll discover there is much more to enjoy. The sandstone fins that dominate Devil’s Garden proved a glimpse into the formation of arches in various stages.

Partition Arch

About 1/2 mile beyond Landscape Arch, Partition Arch actually is a pair of arches separating the fins that Landscape and Navajo arches are formed on. The main arch gives you a sweeping view to the north, and you can (carefully) find a place to sit and soak in the view on the north side of the arch.

Head through the main arch, and to the east is a sloping ledge that provides a great place to sit and soak in the grandeur of Arches.

Click for an interactive 360-degree view of Partition Arch

Navajo Arch

Head back out the spur and bear left at the junction to Navajo Arch. This short spur trail leads down behind the next fin, revealing a beefy arch that feels like a doorway to a small, hidden slot canyon.

Click for an interactive 360 photo of Navajo Arch

From Navajo Arch, backtrack to the main loop trail and head west. Here the trail climbs to the top of a squat fin with 360-degree views.

The trail climbs up this rock

You scramble up this steep section to the top of the fin, then follow it for about 1/4 mile.

There are great views in all directions. Just be sure to stop before you look around. You won’t want to step off the edge!

Atop the Fin en route to Double-O Arch

Black Arch Overlook

At the far end of the stretch along the top of the fin, the trail drops once more to the ground and a short spur to an overlook of Black Arch.

Double O Arch

Another scramble down steep slickrock takes you to the unusual Double O Arch. What makes this arch particularly unusual is that one is stacked above the other. You can hike directly under the arches and view it from all sides.

After this, watch carefully for the junction with the spur trail to Dark Angel. The maze of use trails leading to and from Double-O Arch make it easy to miss. It’s only about 5-10 yards away from the arch.

Dark Angel

The Dark Angel is not an arch, but a dark-colored pinnacle that sit like a sentry at the northwest extreme of the Devil’s Garden. The 1/2 mile spur trail is worth the trip for the views.

Dark Angel

From Dark Angel, retrace your steps to rejoin the Devils’ Garden Loop. The sign once again warns that it is a primitive trail, which I found enjoyable. There were generally fewer people on this section, and it also gives you a close look at the bottom of the garden.

Private Arch

At six miles you reach a junction with the spur trail to Private Arch. The 1/2 mile spur trail takes you to probably one of the least viewed arches in the park.

Climb the last stretch of slickrock beyond the arch and you’ll be rewarded with an amazing view of the Devil’s Garden. Here you can really see the fins that erode over millions of years to create the iconic arches.

End of Private Arch TrailHead back to the main loop trail and continue on, as it descends a dry creek bed and circles the eastern edge of Devil’s Garden, finally rejoining the trail you hiked in on. Follow this trail back toward the trailhead, but stop to take the short spur trail to Pine Tree and Tunnel Arches.

Pine Tree Arch

This is a tall, thick arch, so-named because a pine tree is growing under the arch.

Tunnel Arch

On the other side of the spur trail is the ninth tunnel on this tour– Tunnel Arch. This arch is viewed from a distance, and looks a bit like a porthole or a subway tunnel.

From this final arch it’s less than a mile back to the trailhead parking, which by now has completely filled up. And you still have half the day to explore!

Devils Garden Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Note that the mileage recorded on my GPS is over two miles longer than the National Park map mileage, likely due to signal noice hiking in narrow canyons.

Devils Garden Tips

• No permits are required for hiking.
• Water is only available in two places in Arches National Park; at the Visitor’s Center at the Park Entrance, and at the Devil’s Garden trailhead. Be sure to fill your bottles before hiking this dry, exposed trail.
• The primitive sections of the trail require hiking over sections of steep slickrock and navigating from cairn to cairn. Take you’re time to make sure you’re on the trail. Leave the cairns intact. Do not tamper with existing cairns or build your own.

More Arches National Park Resources

• Official Arches National Park website
• Arches National Park Map from National Geographic

Arches National Park Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”84532″]

Original hiked this trail on October 18, 2016. 

Grand Teton National Park frequently shows up on lists of favorite backpacking treks, and in particular the 32-mile Teton Crest Trail. Last week I traveled to Jackson, Wyoming for a conference, but before the work — I met up with another attendee who travelled from Germany and together we spent four days backpacking this beautiful national park.

We had originally planned to hike the Teton Crest Trail, which most people start from the top of the tram above the Jackson Hole Ski Resort, then loops around the west side of the range, crossing four passes and exiting east through Paintbrush Canyon. We knew that there had been snow the week before, but as you can see from the view above, the snow didn’t look too bad.

Monday morning, I met my hiking partner Carsten for breakfast, made a stop at Teton Mountaineering to pickup bear spray (there are grizzlies up here) and a fuel canister, then headed to the visitor center in Moose, WY to pickup our permit. Right off the bat, the ranger informed us that the tram which whisk us to the top of the mountain and give us an easy, mostly downhill first day had stopped running the day before, shutting down until ski season started up in December.

So we went with Plan B. Starting at Granite Canyon and hiking up from the bottom. The ranger warned us that the snow was “probably” deep, but we figured we’d see for ourselves. And so we did.

The trail started out as we expected–pretty dry. The creek running down Granite Canyon had plenty of water, the forest shaded us from the bright sun. And then we ran into a bear. 

It may not show clearly in the photo above, but there were berries on those bushes. The ranger had warned us that bears were especially active, looking to load up on calories before going into hibernation for winter. I was leading the way, and hear the quick rustling in the brush. Carsten saw the blur of fur, and we both turned and quickly headed back down the trail to put a bit of distance between us. We didn’t run (never run from a bear) but we did get out of the way.

After retreating about 50 yards, we stopped and listened. Apparently the bear was as startled as we were, because after we waited about five minutes and made our way back up the trail, the bear was gone.

As we continued climbing up the canyon, we encountered more snow. There was plenty of evidence of wildlife, but only one set of footprints.

By 8000 feet, we were hiking through about 12″ of snow. Travel was not bad, and we hoped for the best. As we reached 9,000 feet, the snow was 24″ deep, and we were post-holing and breaking the trail. We knew that we had several passes over 10,000 feet. It wasn’t going to get better. We had set an aggressive schedule for the Teton Crest Trail, and with the snow level, there was no way we’d be able to make that mileage.

So we went from Plan B to Plan C. We camped our first night on the snow (my first time) and hiked back down Granite Canyon the next morning. Instead of the Teton Crest Trail, we’d be backpacking on the Valley Trail.

Being the shoulder season, the crowds were non-existent. We saw occasional day hikers (being not-too-far from the trailheads) but only a few other backpackers. We had our pick of campsites, including our Tuesday night camp at Phelps Lake and Wednesday night at Bradley Lake.

We finished at Jenny Lake. The skies had cleared and Grand Teton towered majestic above us. Plan C worked out pretty well. Though I’ll be back to hike the Teton Crest Trail another time.

Hiking with Carston was a pleasure. You never know when you hike with someone for the first time. All I knew about him was that he was into ultralight backpacking and had hiked the PCT. As we talked about our hiking background, I asked him if he had seen “Tell It On The Mountain” — the documentary about the Pacific Crest Trail that I reviewed here on SoCalHiker a few years ago. As it turns out, “Sauerkraut” (his trail name) was featured prominently in the documentary, and I had even written about his story! No wonder it sounded familiar.

I’ll be sharing detailed trail information in November, but wanted to give you a sense of what the trip was like.

Originally hiked October 10-13, 2016. 

DAY FIVE on the High Sierra Trail

The 9+ mile climb from Junction Meadow to Crabtree is really gorgeous! All five of us hiked together, which was the first day my wife and I had company on our hiking day. It was fun to have one day to hike as a group.

HST Day 5 Details

Distance: 10 miles
Time: 5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 3,795 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: July-Sept.

It’s a gorgeous hike up the canyon to the East, with the Kaweah’s and the Great Western Divide to the West. It was great to look back and see where we had come from and what we had accomplished over the past 45 miles.

Once at Wallace Creek, we immediately saw more people than we had seen in the previous five days, as we were now sharing the HST with the John Muir Trail. The solitude was gone, but it was sort of fun to meet some new people.

From Wallace Creek, you climb up to about 10,900 feet – the highest we had been so far – before descending a bit into the Crabtree Meadow and Crabtree Ranger Station area. We even passed a man-made rock marker that said “200” – denoting mile 200 of the JMT.

Crabtree is a huge meadow – known to be a major camping spot for thru-hikers on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). Of course, being mid-July most of the PCTers were long gone – but there still ended up being about twelve tents there by dark. There’s a beautiful creek that runs past it – and because we arrived early, it was a great place to hang out.

Most hikers on the High Sierra Trail will go on to Guitar Lake, and then summit Whitney the next day. We decided to turn what could be a six-day trip into an eight-day trip by relaxing at Crabtree all afternoon and following up with another easy day to Guitar Lake the next day. My wife and I love “camping” – so we felt no reason to rush over the Eastern Sierra with all this beauty surrounding us and a Saturday-to-Saturday schedule. We had hiked hard the first three days on a six-day completion schedule so we could ‘earn’ these wonderful camping days – and now we were enjoying the payoff!

We lunched by the creek with some JMTers and then walked up to the Crabtree Ranger Station to introduce ourselves to the ranger. Nice guy again – everyone in Sequoia NP is great!

We crashed early after dark and didn’t hurry the next morning as we only had about three miles and change to Guitar Lake for another easy day with rest before climbing Mt Whitney.

High Sierra Trail:  Junction Meadow to Crabtree Meadow
Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Next up?

• Continue to Day 6 on the High Sierra Trail, hiking from Crabtree Meadow to Guitar Lake.
• Go back to Day 4 on the High Sierra Trail. 
• New to the High Sierra Trail? Get the big picture with our HST overview.
• Got questions about the High Sierra Trail? Join our HST discussion forum.

Day Two on the High Sierra Trail is an epic adventure that includes some of the most legendary sights and sounds of Sequoia National Park. It’s a solid 12-13 mile journey, but worth every single step.

HST Day 2 Details

Distance: 12.5 miles
Time: 6-7 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 3,654 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: July-Sept.

The HST drops down a set of switchbacks to a crazy bridge over Lone Pine Creek that gets you to the other side of the canyon. Below the bridge are the ruins of a previous bridge long since washed out via an avalanche.

Once across Lone Pine Creek, then you begin the long ascent over the Great Western Divide.

The first target is the Hamilton Lakes basin – a gorgeous lake surrounded by the mountains of the GWD. Crystal clear water and incredible scenery make this first ascent very worth it! On the way hike along several waterfalls and water crossings – some reasonably large. It’s good stream-crossing practice for more to come later.

Big Hamilton Lake is a great place for a quick rest – and even a swim if you’re so inclined. The campground there is quite popular – both for HSTs on a slower schedule or folks who are just doing an out-and-back from Crescent Meadow. Just simply a gorgeous alpine lake!

After a brief rest and photos, the time had come to ascend the Great Western Divide – our target, Precipice Lake followed by the Kaweah Gap at 10,700 feet. The next 2,000 vertical feet would be challenging and awesome! First, switchbacks up the Northern side of Hamilton Lake – very well constructed and very fair in their ascent degrees.

The first epic landmark on the ascent is the Hamilton Gorge – an incredibly steep gorge that runs down into Hamilton Lake. From the YouTube documentary on the HST overview, we were looking for the left over steel cable and cement pedestals that once held a crazy suspension bridge.

Today, a tunnel is blasted through solid rock and a thin single track leads you around the gorge. We were lucky that all the snow and ice had melted off just a few weeks before – as this gorge is impassable if the ice is still covering the trail–unless you are equipped for mountaineering.

Once across the gorge, the trail heads east and up, up, up…until you finally reach the epic Precipice Lake. This lake – made famous in Ansel Adams photos – sits at about 10,400 feet and creates an incredible two-way reflection.

On our day, a few clouds and remaining ice/snow didn’t give us the “Adams” view, but it was still gorgeous and a perfect lunch spot. And it was fun to navigate through some snow that covered parts of the trail – soft enough to not need microspikes but deep enough to warrant just a bit of caution while navigating. We even got to see some melting ice over the lake drop off and explode into the water!

After lunch and a break, we ascended the last 300 or so vertical feet to Kaweah Gap – the official pass over the Great Western Divide. That last bit of trail included quite a bit of water-on-trail runoff and another nice snow field. We even encountered three trail runners who had left Whitney Portal the night before and were already 50 miles in to a 40 hour HST East to West run – WOW!

When we reached the gap, it was truly one of the most epic views in all of Sequoia National Park – and perhaps the Sierras! The Big Arroyo opens up to this incredible view to the South – like something out of a grand Western Hollywood film. On the base of Mt. Stewart to the North is a plaque commemorating the first director of Sequoia National Park and the driving force behind the creation of the HST.

From Kaweah Gap the trail gently descends through the Big Arroyo for approximately 3 miles – one of the most beautiful descents of the entire trip. Nothing but gorgeous scenery, grass, rocks and trees in every direction – with an incredible stream and beautiful water features all the way down. There are several small crossings, but as you get close to the Big Arroyo campground, there was one large crossing – one where we simply couldn’t figure out a safe place to cross. It was deep, there were few rocks to step on, and the water was moving pretty rapidly. So, we headed down stream another 50-100 yards or so and found a much flatter, calmer flat rock area to cross – where by simply taking off our shoes and switching to sandals we could shuffle across safely and rejoin the trail on the other side.

From there, it was a short hike to Big Arroyo campground – a nice spot next to the river with a bear box, near an old ranger cabin that has been preserved as a historical landmark.

A northern wind dropped the temperature down to below freezing that night – so we got a bit of frost on the rain fly and our backpack drinking reservoirs froze up! But in the tent we were warm and toasty.

High Sierra Trail: Bearpaw Meadow to Big Arroyo Junction
Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Next up?

• Continue to Day 3 on the High Sierra Trail, hiking to Upper Funston Meadow.
• Go back to Day 1 on the High Sierra Trail.
• New to the High Sierra Trail? Get the big picture with our HST overview.
• Got questions about the High Sierra Trail? Join our HST discussion forum.

Day One on the High Sierra Trail we hiked 11.5 miles east-bound, from Crescent Meadow to Bearpaw. Starting at the giant forest, we followed the edge of the Middle Fork of the Kaweah River – a super deep canyon with stunning views to the south, west and east towards the Great Western Divide. This section of the High Sierra Trail only gains about 1,000 vertical feet from start to finish, there is actually about 1,700′ total vertical climbing as the trail climbs up and down over the 11+ miles.

HST Day 1 Details

Distance: 11.5 miles / 18.2 km
Time: 7.5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 1,692 ft / 516 m
Dogs: No
When to go: July-Sept.

There are several campground sites along the way to Bearpaw Meadow, including Mehrten Creek, Nine Mile Creek and Buck Creek. Each presents a water crossing, along with some smaller crossings. Rangers warn that some of these creek crossings may be hazardous early in the summer, but none were problematic for us in mid-July, and all were fun to navigate.

Our one and only bear sighting the entire trip came just 10 minutes into our trip – right off the side of the trail spotting a mother and two cubs. We were glad they were a safe distance from the trail!

About one mile in, you reach Eagle’s View, our first great view of the 7,000 foot deep canyon that is the Kaweah River’s middle fork and the Great Western Divide – our eastern ascent target for day two.

We lunched at Mehrten Creek – a beautiful rock formation with water and a wonderful rest spot halfway to Bearpaw Meadow.

After crossing the Buck Creek bridge, there is one final steep set of switchbacks to get up to the ridge where Bearpaw Meadow High Sierra Camp and Campground are located. They even have t-shirts that say “Bearpaw High Sierra Camp – The Last Mile” – and they aren’t kidding – it’s a slog at the end of a long day.

The campground is situated off the ridge from the high sierra camp, and has lots of campsites, several bear boxes, water spigots and fire rings. It’s not the most picturesque of campgrounds on the High Sierra Trail, but serviceable for our first night.

We were the first group into the campground that day, and met Ranger Matt there. He was super nice and even showed us the best camp spot. And there were plenty of local deer coming to visit throughout the evening and the following morning.

Be sure to walk up the hill and check out the Bearpaw High Sierra Camp, a $200-$300/night tent resort with fancy meals and a gorgeous deck overlooking the canyon and the Great Western Divide. Unfortunately by the time we rolled in (after setting our camp) they had sold all the backpacker beer and brownies – oh well!

High Sierra Trail: Crescent Meadow to Bearpaw Meadow
Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Next up?

• Continue to Day 2 on the High Sierra Trail, climbing over the Great Western Divide at Kaweah Gap and descending into Big Arroyo.
• New to the High Sierra Trail? Get the big picture with our HST overview.
• Got questions about the High Sierra Trail? Join our HST discussion forum.

Lesser known than the famous John Muir Trail, the High Sierra Trail (HST) is in many ways just as historically significant as it’s longer and more famous brother. In 1928, Sequoia National Park was expanded from the western section famous for the giant Sequoia Grove all the way to the Eastern Sierra and Mt. Whitney. At that point, park officials had to decide how to travel from West to East, as there were currently no trails or roads. The decision was made not to build roads, but instead to build a trail. This project – the High Sierra Trail – would be a grand five-year national project of incredible engineering and trail building…one of the last such projects ever.

It is incredibly well documented in a short video done by a retired Sequoia National Park Ranger:

If after watching this video, you don’t want to immediately go backpack this trail, watch it again!

Trail Details

Distance: 72.2 miles
Time: 6-8 days
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 13,303 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: July-Sept

Why hike the High Sierra Trail? It’s a great way to get views like these!

Expansive Big Arroyo

High Alpine Meadow

Guitar Lake

Climbing Mt Whitney, the highest mountain in the contiguous 48 states.

High Sierra Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Here’s what the route looks like. You can click and zoom or expand the map to full-screen to see additional detail. You can download the GPX file for use with your GPS app.

Getting to the Trail

As with all Sierra thru-hikes, the first challenge is figuring out transportation. With the High Sierra Trail, you start at Crescent Meadow on the Western edge of Sequoia National Park in the giant tree grove. You finish at Whitney Portal. The two locations are a six-hour drive apart.

Here was our solution:

• Rent a car from Enterprise – one-way rental – to Visalia, CA airport.
• Take the Sequoia Shuttle ($15 for two people/one-way) to Sequoia National Park.
• Pickup our permits at the Lodgepole Visitor Center (open 7am to 3:30pm daily) and stay the night in Lodgepole Campground. Reservations are recommended and campsites run $22 per night.
• Take the free in-park shuttle the next morning from Lodgepole to the trailhead at Crescent Meadow (the first shuttle leaves at 8 a.m.).
• Use Eastern Sierra Shuttle to take us from Whitney Portal to Lone Pine hotel upon completion.
• Get our son to come pick us up in Lone Pine and drive us home to Los Angeles (the KEY element).

We departed on a Friday, spending the night in Lodgepole. On Saturday morning at approximately 9 a.m.we began our 72-mile adventure to Mt. Whitney across the entire width of Sequoia National Park.

Eight Day Itinerary for the High Sierra Trail

The HST is the perfect length for a week-long trip with nine days (five weekdays and two weekends). Here is our itinerary:

Editor’s Note: Detailed photos, maps and narrative for each day will be published, one-per-day. As each day goes “live” the itinerary below will link to it. 

• Day 0 – Travel to Lodgepole, pick-up permit
• Day 1 – Crescent Meadow to Bearpaw Meadow
• Day 2 – Bearpaw Meadow to Big Arroyo Junction
• Day 3 – Big Arroyo to Upper Funston Meadow via Moraine Lake
• Day 4 – Upper Funston Meadow to Junction Meadow
• Day 5 – Junction Meadow to Crabtree
• Day 6 – Crabtree to Guitar Lake
• Day 7 – Guitar Lake to Trail Crest to Mt Whitney to Outpost Camp
• Day 8 – Outpost Camp to Whitney Portal

When to Hike the High Sierra Trail

The high passes on the High Sierra Trail hold snow sometimes even year round. In the spring, they can be practically impassable. Most HST trips are taken in July and August, but you’ll find smaller crowds in September after school starts.

Getting Permits for the HST

About 75% of the permits can be reserved in advance, with the remainder reserved for walk-in permits. You can check for permit availability here. Permits cost $10 plus $5 per person (so a permit for two people would cost $20). It’s important to remember that your permit reservation is not a permit. You’ll still need to pick it up at the Lodgepole Visitor Center either the day before you begin your hike (after 1:00 pm) or on the morning you begin your hike (before 10:00 am). To get a permit reservation, you will need to fax your application following these instructions.

High Sierra Trail Weather

Weather on the High Sierra Trail can be difficult to predict. If you’re hiking in the summer months, expect some cold nights and warm days. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in the Sierra Nevada, and you can even get a surprise snowstorm.

Your best bet is to check with the ranger before you pack for your trip for the latest forecast and conditions. For planning purposes, use Mountain Forecast. The high point on this trek is Mt. Whitney, so it’s a good reference point for the weather extremes.

Ready for More?

Next up: Day One on the High Sierra Trail.

Got questions about the High Sierra Trail? Join our HST discussion forum.

Walking among the ancient, towering trees in Redwood Canyon, I’m reconnected to the natural world and to history itself. Most of the old growth redwoods here are between 600-800 years old, and the oldest is about 1200 years old — still young by redwood standards. As I hiked among these giants, it was easy to imagine the view being much the same as when John Muir visited this grove.

Trail Details

Distance: 3.5 miles
Time: 60-80 min.
Difficulty: Easy
Elevation gain: 842 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Year-round

Muir Woods National Monument: When to Go and How to Get There

Muir Woods National Monument is famously crowded. There is limited parking, and on the weekends, visitors are highly encouraged to take the shuttle bus. The first step to beating the crowds is to go when it’s less crowded. It seems like common sense, but for whatever reason, most people don’t do it. Be smarter than the average visitor. Go on a weekday, and go early. Muir Woods opens at 8:00 AM, and if you get there by then, you have a good chance of getting a space in the small, second lot (the first lot is mainly for shuttles and handicapped parking). Click here for the location on Google Maps.

Getting to Muir Woods early gives you the best chance of snagging a coveted parking spot, beating the crowds, and seeing wildlife. And as an added bonus, you might even get in for free. Normally entry is $10 for anyone over 16 years, but if you get there before the visitor center opens (as we did when we went) they have a “free admittance” sign posted.

Hiking the Canopy View Loop

The second best advice for avoiding the crowds at Muir Woods? Take the road less traveled — the Canopy View Trail.

Most visitors are content to wander up the boardwalks along Redwood Creek, craning their necks upwards and bumping into each other as they make their way up the canyon. Instead, take the Canopy View Trail and leave the crowds behind.

As you enter Muir Woods, follow the boardwalk — the Main Trail — into the redwoods. You’ll pass by the gift shop and cafe (which open a bit later) and catch glimpses of the first giant trees.

At the first junction, take the Canopy View Trail to the right. Some maps refer to it as the Ocean View Trail, but when you see the steps climbing up the east side of the canyon, you’ll know you’re on the right path.

The trail climbs up the canyon wall through thick sections of tall, straight, young redwoods.

It is a dirt single track trail with sections that are covered in roots, but the trail is in great condition overall. Trekking poles and boots are optional on this trail; my Solomon trail runners were a perfect match.

This is not a trail to race through (although the oldest trail race — the Dipsea Race — passes nearby). This loop trail is meant to be hiked slowly. Pause and reflect. Breathe deeply. Think about the history that these ancient trees have lived through.

At about 1.5 miles, you’ll reach the junction with the Lost Trail and the high point of this loop. There’s a rustic log bench for resting. When you’ve caught your breath, continue down the Lost Trail.

The Lost Trail descends pretty steeply, but the trail has steps built to reduce erosion and impact to the fragile environment. Take your time and watch for wildlife. We saw one other couple hiking behind us, and passed one couple headed in the opposite direction — so the “crowds” were non-existent up here. We did however see a young three-point buck just above the trail.

This is described on maps as the Fern Creek Trail (not Fern Canyon).

The Lost Trail actually leaves Muir Woods National Monument and enters Mt Tamalpais State Park, eventually connecting with the Fern Creek Trail and cuts back to the south. True to its namesake, the hills were lined with lush, green ferns.

At the bottom of Fern Canyon, you’ll reach Redwood Creek. There’s an interesting bridge built atop a fallen log that leads further up Redwood Canyon, but you’ll turn left and follow the Redwood Creek Trail downstream.

This junction is quiet, but it used to be seriously bustling with the arrival of tourists taking the Muir Woods Railway from Mt Tamalpais. There were cabins and the Muir Inn where you could spend the night in the woods. The inn burned down in 1913, and the railway ceased operation in 1929, but you can visit Mt Tam where they have a gravity car on display at the “other” end of the railway. It’s a worthwhile side-trip after your hike.

The Redwood Creek Trail (aka the Main Trail) is where you re-enter the crowded section of Muir Woods. The crowds grow as you get closer to the visitors center, but you’ll want to take your time anyway. Follow the trail back toward the visitor center and the end of the loop.

Canopy View Trail Map

Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Variations

Muir Woods is criss-crossed by trails, many which connect to other trail networks in Mt Tamalpais State Park. You can easily modify this to suit your time and inclination. Pickup the overall map at the visitor center and go explore!

Muir Woods National Monument Tips

• Bring a liter of water. Even if it’s foggy or overcast, you’ll need hydration on the climb.
• Be prepared for slick trails. Hey, this is Marin County we’re talking about. It’s often damp and foggy and dripping with moisture. Don’t expect to have the nice dry trails I saw.
• Be sure to Leave No Trace. In fact, go a step further and bring a bag to pickup any trash you see.
• There is no cell phone coverage in Muir Woods. I used GaiaGPS to track my route, but downloaded the maps before going so I’d have them even without cell coverage.
• One minor peeve: The signage in the park and the maps available use conflicting trail names. The Fern Canyon Trail is sometimes referred to as the Fern Creek Trail. The Main Trail is also referred to as the Redwood Creek Trail. Numerous inconsistencies in naming can be confusing and frustrating, but if you can read a map and follow the signs, you’ll be okay.
• There are two official maps available from the park, the Muir Woods National Monument Map and the Historic Walking Tour Map. They are $1 each, and I highly recommend picking up both for the wealth of information they provide. They can be found at the visitor center, or in self-service dispensers on the Main Trail (with an honor-system donation box).

More Muir Woods National Monument Resources

• GPS user? Download the GPX track.
• Check the official Muir Woods National Monument website for the latest information on hours of operation and events at Muir Woods.
• Get an high-level overview of the trails in the area in this Muir Woods Trail Map (PDF).

Muir Woods National Monument Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”94941″]

Special thanks to Joan, Kaete and Christopher for joining me on this hike.

Driving through the badlands of Arizona

One of the most challenging and rewarding experiences you can have is taking a solo road trip.  It’s a time for reflection and introspection. It’s a time with no distractions and only the road ahead of you.  Just put on an epic playlist and watch the terrain change as you head on to your next destination.

The author, reflecting on life in the Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado

This past spring I took my first solo road trip through the southwest — Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona and Utah.

I had reservations (figuratively, not literally) and I was incredibly excited to see all the beauty that the southwest has to offer.  I planned to drive 4-6 hours a day and very loosely made a list of places I wanted to see.  That was pretty much it. I didn’t book any hotels or reserve campsites.  I figured I would see how things went and make plans on the fly.

As it turned out, it was one of the best decisions I could have made.  There is so much freedom in waking up, setting a destination and finding a place to camp or stay along the way.

So here’s what I learned that might help make your own solo road trip a success.

Here are my six tips to make your first (or next) solo road trip a success:

1. Drive early in the morning and know your limits with driving.

Driving is safe when you’re more alert, and if you plan for around 4 hours of driving per day it still leaves plenty of daylight to go hiking and explore. Remember that a road trip is about the journey; not the destination. Enjoy it.

2. Find and set up your lodging before dark, if possible.

It’s just common sense. You sleep better and more securely.

3. Be mindful of your gas tank.

I never went below half a tank, there were many roads where the nearest gas station was hundreds of miles away and I didn’t want to be stuck on the side of the road with an empty tank.

4. Keep plenty of snacks and water on hand.

Granola bars, oranges and water were my jam while driving to my next destination.

5. Keep in touch and let others know where you are on a daily basis.

It’s not only good practice, but others love to share in your adventure! Stay in touch by phone, text, email, Facebook, Instagram or heck, even carrier pigeon. For me, my iPhone kept me connected, but use whatever works for you.

6. Take time to soak it all in and take lots of pictures or journal your experience.

Enjoy each moment, but capture your memories. Looking back at my photos and journal entries let me take a virtual road trip whenever I need it.

Walking through the Garden of the Gods in Colorado

Buffalo outside Zion National Park in Utah

Exploring Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah

What are your favorite road trip tips? 

The Theodore Solomons Trail is an epic alternative to the immensely popular John Muir Trail. It’s roughly 270 miles in length, and runs largely parallel to–and west of–the JMT. The TST was conceived back in 1974 to help alleviate the crowding on the JMT (yes, even back then). Unlike the JMT, the TST is not an official trail, but a route stitched together from existing trails. Some of those trails are no longer maintained, and many of them are rarely travelled. My goal is to hike the entire trail in sections and assess the viability of the route as an alternate to the JMT.

Trail Details

Distance: 4.5 miles
Time: 2 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain (loss): 652 ft (1,448 ft)
Dogs: No
When to go: June-October

This hike was a short, sweet start to the first section of the Theodore Solomons Trail. We had swapped cars with friends who were starting at Clover Meadows and hiking north. Our permit was for a Saturday start, but we arrived at the Wawona Ranger Station around 3:30 PM Friday and were lucky enough to get a walk-in permit for Friday. Permit in hand, we drove to Glacier Point, took the requisite photos of Half Dome, Nevada and Vernal Falls, and at exactly 5:06pm we started hiking down the Panorama Trail.

The trail here is difficult to detect, because it actually starts over the granite directly next to this sign.

The Panorama Trail is a beautiful route that leads down to the top of Nevada Falls. We followed it down to the junction towards Illilouette Falls, and then stayed right to follow Illilouette Creek upstream.

Look closely and you can see a glimpse of Illilouette Falls. Our destination was in the distance.

Our trail descended nearly 1,000 feet over the first 2.5 miles, stopping only when we reached the granite channel which Illilouette rushes through. Here we followed the gentle ascent along the creek, with beautiful views and the sounds of cascade.

At 3.8 miles we crossed a tributary feeding Illilouette from the north, and promptly began our first decent climb. We ascended over section of forest scarred by a past wildfire, with new growth sprouting everywhere among the charred and branch-less trunks standing watch over the mountainside.

Up until this point, we had only passed a few day hikers heading up toward Glacier Point. We didn’t encounter any other backpackers on the trail. Finally, at 4.2 miles, we reached a junction with a trail from Mono Meadows in the north, and saw several small groups of backpackers camped near the creek. This was the general area where we planned to camp on this short day — having started late.

We took our boots off to wade across Illilouette Creek — the first of many such “boots off” crossings — and hunted for a suitable campsite. Up the bluff on the south side of Illilouette was another junction, and not far upstream an established campsite that we would call home for the night.

Will crossing the Illilouette

A few notes — the area of these two junctions (one on either side of the creek) is the first place where you can camp when backpacking. It’s also the last place on this trip that we saw other backpackers camped. The remainder of the 25.5 miles did not see a single occupied camp, and we saw a few people. It felt “busy” here at our first night’s camp (even though our campsite was far away from the others), but the remainder of the route felt very “wild” and highly travelled.

Also, the National Park trail signs claimed it was 3.5 miles, but my GPS clocked it at 4.5 (even after cleaning up the noise on the route). As with most things in life, the truth probably lies somewhere between.

There was plenty of water in Illilouette Creek, though the ranger warned us not to rely on small tributaries. We didn’t see any problem there, either, but there had been thunderstorms for two days prior to our trip.

We built a campfire and unwound. Today’s mileage was a bonus. Miles in the bank, so to speak. We effectively had a 4.5 mile head start on tomorrow’s hike towards Fernandez Pass.

Glacier Point to Illilouette Creek Trail Map

Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Additional Tips

• If you hike this as a shuttle, note it is a LONG drive from Clover Meadows to Glacier Point including many miles on a bumpy gravel road.  Allow sufficient time and fuel.
• When parking at the trailhead, do not leave anything with any scent in your car (including air fresheners, toothpaste, deodorant, etc.). This is bear country, and they have ways of “opening” your car that you might not appreciate.
• Trail conditions where great throughout this section, which was not surprising given the number of occupied camps seen that night near the creek.

More Resources

• Wilderness permits are available up to 168 days in advance on a first-come, first-serve basis. Glacier Point is a popular alternate starting point for the John Muir Trail and for folks doing short overnight trips to Half Dome, so plan ahead as much as possible.
• As of this writing, the entry fee to Yosemite National Park is $30 per car.
• Get driving directions to Glacier Point via Google Maps
• Download the GPX file or view my raw tracking data from GaiaGPS.

Yosemite National Park Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”95389″]

We ascended Walter’s Wiggles, the 21-switchbacks carefully engineered and reinforced with sandstone blocks and were standing atop Scout Lookout, with awe-inspiring views down into Zion Canyon and over the Virgin River. Looming before us was a slender finger of red sandstone leading to Angels Landing. I have been up Half Dome several times. I’ve sat atop Banner Peak and dangled my feet over Thousand Island Lake. And I’ve climbed to the top of Mt Whitney in the darkness of night. But looking at the “trail” before us I got butterflies. At first glance, the trail up to Angels Landing looks impossibly steep and treacherous.

Angels Landing in Zion National Park is one of the most challenging and rewarding hikes in the park. The slender spine of red sandstone juts into the canyon like a spine, and provides epic views in all directions. Getting to the top requires you to check your acrophobia at the trailhead, and the final push from Scout Landing has sheer drops with little room for errors.

Trail Details

Distance: 5 miles
Time: 4 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 1,500 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Year-round

We arrived at Zion National Park early in the morning, and got parking at the visitor center parking lot near the entrance. During the summer months, Zion does not allow cars in the canyon. Instead, you park at the visitor center or in neighboring Springdale and take a shuttle into the valley.

Angels Landing Trail Description

We took the shuttle to the Grotto Trailhead — the sixth stop in Zion’s main canyon. There are restrooms and picnic tables near the shuttle stop. We checked our water and headed over the bridge across the Virgin River and up the West Rim Trail.

The trail is actually paved as it slogs uphill winding close to the canyon wall.

At 1.5 miles you reach beautiful Refrigerator Canyon.

This deep, narrow side canyon is shady and stays cool even in the summer. This section climbs more gently, giving you a bit of a breather until you reach Walter’s Wiggles.

These 21 switchbacks are steep and short, and an amazing bit of 1930’s trail engineering. Our legs felt good, but the climb really gets your heart pumping.

At the top of the wiggles we reached Scout Landing. Many people reach this point and go no further, intimidated by the path ahead that seems more like a trial than a trail. This is a good spot to take a break, eat a snack, drink some water and consider… are your papers in order?

The sign to Angels Landing declares ominously: “Since 2004, six people have died falling from the cliffs on this route. The 1.1 mile round-trip from Scout Landing to Angels Landing is a strenuous climb on a narrow ridge over 1,400 feet above the canyon floor. This route is not recommended during high winds, storms or if snow or ice is present.” 

Warning

People have fallen to their death on this trail. It is exposed and can be brutally hot in the summer, or icy and slippery in the winter. Do not attempt if raining, snowing or freezing, as this amplifies the dangers. As the signs at the trailhead warn, “your safety is your responsibility.” 

I was determined to go to the top. Many people do every day. I wasn’t sure if Joan would be as enthusiastic. But when I saw the narrow spine that we would be climbing to reach Angels Landing, I felt my pulse quicken. A little voice in my head said “Really? No way!”

We caught our breath and decided to give it a go. 

The Angels Landing trail traverses solid sandstone with sheer drops of hundreds of feet possible. People have died on this trail, as the signs warn. In most places, the trail involves following a well-worn route over the steep sandstone while holding a chain on one side. And it’s not that bad. With proper shoes, a decent sense of balance and a rational fear of death (keeping you from behaving foolishly), you can hike this trail. You will gain another 500 vertical feet in a very short distance, but take your time. Breathe.

Reaching the top is exhilarating, and the views are magnificent.

Angels Landing plenty of area to spread out and enjoy the views. We took time to soak it all in and recorded a short time-lapse video of the view down the canyon.

Heading down was complicated. When we got to Angels Landing, it was early enough in the morning that not many people were coming down yet. As we descended, there was a steady stream of hikers making their way up the narrow spine. With only one chain, passing is best done with extreme caution.

Once we were back at Scout Landing, the rest of the hike down was easy.

Angels Landing Trail Map

Angels Landing Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Angels Landing Tips

• Start early. Not only will you find fewer people, you’ll also have cooler temperatures — and important consideration in the summer.
• Take plenty of water. This is not a trail where you want to skimp on water. Bring 1-2 liters and stay hydrated.
• This trail has a lot of sun exposure. Use sun protection and a hat.
• Don’t take unnecessary risks. Be aware of the people around you. One accidental bump could be tragic.

More Zion National Park Resources

• Zion National Park website
• Lunch at the Lodge — but upstairs (on the patio if the weather permits). It is quieter and much more relaxed.

Zion National Park Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”84767″]

Day 20 on the John Muir Trail…

At 13,200 feet above sea level, Forester Pass may not be the highest point on the John Muir Trail (that would be Mt. Whitney) but it is the high point of the Pacific Crest Trail.

John Muir Trail Day 20

Distance: 12 miles
Cumulative Distance: 199 miles
Total Ascent: 3,869 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 54,249 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 2 and 1

Our goal this morning was to reach Forester Pass before noon, and we got there just before 11:30am. The route up looks like piles of gravel with the occasional patch of snow and lake a the bottom of the slope, but there is a surprising amount of life flourishing in the high altitude.

The trail cuts across a steep slope of scree that is often covered in snow, making it even more treacherous. Keep your eyes on the trail. When you want to look around, stop and steady yourself first.

In our case, we had a few patches of snow, but their were plenty of boot prints leading the way and it wasn’t too bad.

When we reached Forester Pass, we celebrated! We took the requisite photos, ate a snack,  and communed with the marmots.

On the south side of Forester Pass, the John Muir Trail drops down a series of expertly engineered switchbacks in a narrow chasm, then winds around the steep sloping scree to the basin below.

Once in the basin, the trail continues downward on an easy grade to Tyndall Creek. There were patches of trees, and we were able to find a shady spot for lunch.

As we headed on, we passed a couple trail junctions, and our first sign announcing the distance remaining to the top of Mt. Whitney! It was thrilling to realize that we were actually going to complete the JMT! We could practically smell it. Oh wait, that was just us…

Although we had already hiked over Forester Pass, we weren’t finished climbing for the day. We had about another 600 feet of elevation gain up to Bighorn Plateau.

Are We There Yet?

There was no car to pull over, but this last stretch up and beyond the Bighorn Plateau seemed to never end. It was one of those points on the trail when you think to yourself, “How much further?!” To which the reply is typically, “Oh, about a mile… mile and a half.”

Prepare yourself. It’s always more than a mile and a half. Or at least, it feels that way.

Finally the trail dipped down into a valley and we reached Wright Creek. Tonight we would sleep in the shadow of Mt. Whitney.

Trail Map: Forester Pass, Bighorn Plateau and Wright Creek

JMT Day 20 Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Subscribe to our Newsletter

Don’t miss a single day in our JMT series! Subscribe now and get email updates for each post on SoCal Hiker.

Got a question about the JMT? Something you’d like more info on? Post a question in the JMT forum!

Tomorrow, we head to Guitar Lake, just below Mt. Whitney.

Originally hiked on August 15, 2010.

Day 19 on the John Muir Trail…

We awoke early, determined to get a jump on Glen Pass (11, 970ft.). Last night we camped at 10,600ft. just above Upper Rae Lake and were looking forward to reaching the pass early before it got too warm.

John Muir Trail Day 19

Distance: 9 miles
Cumulative Distance: 187 miles
Total Ascent: 3,212 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 50,380 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 3 and 2

This morning I awoke before sunrise. Our camp was very close to the trail, and even in the darkness, there were hikers headed up toward the pass, their headlights bobbing up and down with each stride. That was not our definition of early. We called it sheer madness.

In all seriousness, there are some people who like to wake up, pack up and start hiking immediately to help warm their body. After they have hiked for one or two miles, they stop and cook breakfast. It works for them, and it maybe it would work for you.

Today we got up and were on the trail before the sun hit our campsite, and that was early enough for us.

Being above the tree line, we knew there would be lots of exposure, and it helped to get the pass out of the way early. And there was quite a crowd already at the top of Glen Pass.

We climbed about 1,500 feet in 1.5 miles. Not a bad warm-up. Looking north from Glen Pass, we were treated to a tremendous view of where we had been.

From Glen Pass, we headed south and down towards Vidette Meadows. Our goal was to camp at Upper Vidette Meadows, positioning us well for Forester Pass tomorrow.

As we descended, we saw more and more smoke in the air from a wildfire to the west. It was disconcerting for two reasons. First, we didn’t know how far away the fire was, or if it threatened any part of the John Muir Trail further south, posing danger to us and requiring a change of plans. Second, Joan suffers from asthma, and smoke didn’t help matters. We were concerned, but pressed forward.

Whenever we passed other hikers, we’d enquire about the wildfire and try to glean some knowledge about where it was, and whether it posed danger to us. Information is limited on the trail. There is no cell coverage. There is no Internet. But the reports we heard confirmed that the fire was far enough west that it posed no eminent threat.

We paused near the junction to Bullfrog Lake to refill our water bottles and eat lunch. It was good to be in the shade, and the mosquitos weren’t even too bad.

On our way down to Bubbs Creek, we ran into a couple who was section hiking the PCT. Last summer, they hiked the entire Oregon section. This year, they were tackling the section that more or less tracks along the JMT, though they started at the southern end of the Sierras and were headed north-bound. They were happily feasting on cheese and crackers, which they had rummaged from a bear box in Lower Vidette Meadows. “Look for it! There’s still some good stuff left in there…” they promised. Visions of a delectable backcountry smorgasbord danced in our heads as we headed down the trail.

One of the questions that I’m often asked about is how easy (or difficult) it is to follow the John Muir Trail. For the most part, the trail is very easy to follow and extremely well marked. However, not all junctions identify which direction the JMT follows, so you still need a good set of maps and basic navigation skills.

On this section of the JMT, there are an unusually high number of trail junctions. We made a point of sticking together and checking the map at each to ensure we were headed in the right direction. We didn’t want another Cloud’s Rest detour.

We made our way to Lower Vidette Meadows, and sure enough, we found the bear box with a cache of leftover foodstuffs. We were excited to rummage through this left-behind food. We salvaged some tea, some ramen and a few other goodies. There was cheese, but it looked very suspect. Not exactly the smorgasbord we imagined, but still a nice bonus.

Hiker Trash

There’s an old hiking joke that goes something like this…

“What’s the difference between a backpacker and a homeless person?” The answer? Goretex.

As we excitedly rummaged through days-old food left in a bear box, I realized were weren’t far off from “dumpster diving.” It’s all a matter of perspective.

We followed Bubbs Creek up the valley, climbing 1,300 feet in just over three miles. The trees were growing sparse when we found a great established campsite for the night.

Trail Map: Rae Lakes to Glen Pass to Upper Vidette Meadow

JMT Day 19 Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Subscribe to our Newsletter

Don’t miss a single day in our JMT series! Subscribe now and get email updates for each post on SoCal Hiker.

Got a question about the JMT? Something you’d like more info on? Post a question in the JMT forum!

Tomorrow, we climb Forester Pass — over 13,000 feet high!

Originally hiked on August 14, 2010.

Day 18 on the John Muir Trail…

Yesterday we discussed our plans for today’s hike. We had originally planned to hike over Glen Pass to Vidette Meadow, but decided to modify the itinerary to have an easier day and leave us just below Glen Pass. Even with the modification, we would meet our original exit date to Whitney Portal.

John Muir Trail Day 18

Distance: 8.5 miles
Cumulative Distance: 178 miles
Total Ascent: 2,434 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 47,168 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 3 and 2

On the other side, we paused for our first break, well aware that the remainder of our hike we would climb over 2,400 feet.

It was a warm, dry day, and the forest thinned as we climbed.  At the 5.8 mile mark, we stopped at Dollar Lake (10,200ft.). There were some beautiful shady spots, so we stopped and actually cooked a dinner for lunch — a first for us.

After a leisurely lakeside meal, we headed back up the JMT towards the Rae Lakes. This chain of three lakes are renown for their beauty, and the Rae Lakes Loop is a popular backpacking route in Kings Canyon National Park.

In the spirit of John Muir, we sauntered along the east shore of the lakes, stopping at the ranger station to check for word on Hari and Jeffrey. They outlined their plans for the remaining days, and were actually picking up additional miles with the goal of exiting at Whitney Portal one or even two days early. We added our plans, so the rangers would be aware, and continued on.

We paused to say hello to Steady, a north-bound Pacific Crest Trail thru-hiker from Australia. He and his wife — Slow — had no prior backpacking experience. They had seen a documentary about the PCT and decided it looked an an adventure worth doing. They bought two tickets to San Diego, stopped at REI to buy equipment, and were on the trail a few days later. Slow and Steady had covered a big section of the PCT already, and did quite well in spite of their lack of experience. After 3-1/2 months on the trail, they had become experts.

As we headed past the second lake, we saw two 8-point bucks grazing nearby, unfazed by our presence.

But the best was yet to come, as the John Muir Trail threads between the second and third Rae Lakes, we had stunning views of the dome named The Painted Lady. Why is it called this? This photo says it all.

At the far side of the Rae Lakes, we found a campsite for the night.

In the end, we had logged a mere 8.5 miles. It was an easy day, but we were well positioned to tackle Glen Pass tomorrow.

Flexibility

Having a plan is essential. Our planning prepared us physically and mentally for the rigors of the JMT. But having flexibility is also essential. We took a hard look at our itinerary and decided it would be worth having a lighter day today. Giving our bodies a chance to rest, and camping close to Glen Pass, we could make up the mileage over the next four days.

Plan, but allow flexibility.

Trail Map: Woods Creek to Rae Lakes

JMT Day 18 Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Subscribe to our Newsletter

Don’t miss a single day in our JMT series! Subscribe now and get email updates for each post on SoCal Hiker.

Got a question about the JMT? Something you’d like more info on? Post a question in the JMT forum!

Tomorrow, we head to over Glen Pass to Vidette Meadow.

Originally hiked on August 13, 2010.

Day 17 on the John Muir Trail…

We awoke just before sunrise, with frozen beads of condensation clinging to outside of our tent. It was chilly. Boil water! Make coffee! Stat!

John Muir Trail Day 17

Distance: 11.1 miles
Cumulative Distance: 169.5 miles
Total Ascent: 2,194 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 44,734 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 4 and 3

As we headed up towards Lake Marjorie, we saw a note from Jeffrey and Hari taped to one of the trail signs. We were instructed to “stop by the ranger station.” We took a break and wandered about a 1/4 mile off trail to the ranger station — no more than a seasonal tent cabin. We chatted with the rangers and learned that Jeffrey and Hari were doing fine (as were we). They would relay a radio message up ahead to let them know all was well. Good communication and collaboration from all involved. Lake Marjorie was a beautiful blue that mirrored the blue skies we enjoyed. The air was brisk, but the sun warm, and with 5.5 miles behind us, we were feeling good. We stopped for lunch on a rock outcropping overlooking the last unnamed lake before Pinchot Pass.

Pinchot was a pretty easy pass, as far as passes go. Our vertical gain was “only” about 2,200 feet. When we reached the pass, we stopped and visited with a trio of backpackers on a week-long trip.

Passes, Peaks, and Creek Crossings

As much as I love coffee, there are (thankfully) no Starbucks on the JMT. But there are natural gathering places where hikers tend to congregate, enjoy a break and swap stories. Throughout our day, we would come to a creek crossing, or a mountain pass, and almost every time there would be other hikers taking the opportunity to rest, take photos, or just take a load off. Take the time to say hello. The people we met on the JMT were an awesome, friendly bunch. When you’re out there, say hello and strike up a conversation. We’re all connected through the shared experience of the trail.

We followed the creek down the basin into a narrow canyon dotted with waterfalls, and stopped for the night at the first campsite we found, sharing with a young couple from Quebec.

Our Evening Ritual on the JMT

Each night at camp, we went through more or less the same routine. Our evening ritual began with setting up the tent. Then, down to the creek to filter water. We would typically fill the four 32-ounce bottles, pumping the water through the filter. It’s a chore, but a necessary part of the routine. After refilling our water, we’d settle down to preparing dinner. Pumping and priming my white fuel stove, then boiling water for a hot beverage and our rehydrated dinner. We’d use our bear canisters as stools as we filled our bellies with a warm meal, then clean everything up. Most nights, we were in bed by 9pm. Sometimes, we’d take turns reading aloud from a cheesy paperback novel we brought along, or simply talking about the day behind… or the day ahead. Sleep comes easily, and is well-earned on the John Muir Trail.

Trail Map: Kings River to Pinchot Pass to Woods Creek

JMT Day 17 Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Subscribe to our Newsletter

Don’t miss a single day in our JMT series! Subscribe now and get email updates for each post on SoCal Hiker. Got a question about the JMT? Something you’d like more info on? Post a question in the JMT forum!

Tomorrow, we head from Woods Creek to Rae Lakes.

Originally hiked on August 12, 2010.

Day 16 on the John Muir Trail…

Today we climb the Golden Staircase, past the Palisade Lakes and up over Mather Pass (12,100ft). We will climb 4,682 feet and descend 2,486 feet, logging 12.6 miles in the process. In other words, this will be a big day in every respect.

John Muir Trail Day 16

Distance: 12.6 miles
Cumulative Distance: 158.4 miles
Total Ascent: 4,682 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 42,540 ft
Harrison Map Sheet 4

Why is it called the Golden Staircase? First of all, it’s a steep series of switchbacks that will take you up, up and UP in a very short distance. Some call it Mother Nature’s StairMaster. Second, if you catch it toward the golden hour before sunset, the light reflects off cascading Palisade Creek giving it a golden glow.

We took our time on the Golden Staircase, and while it was tough, we were tougher. Joan and I can tell that two weeks of hiking the JMT has really made a difference. We reached the high shelf above the Golden Staircase feeling strong.

We had logged about five miles, and stopped to enjoy lunch beside Palisade Creek. It was a beautiful day, with a good breeze. Not much shade, unfortunately, as we were above the tree line.

Refueled and rehydrated, we continued on. About a half mile up the trail we came across the first of the two Palisade Lakes. These are beautiful lakes, and the trail follows the canyon wall around their north-east shoreline.

Beyond Upper Palisade Lake the land became increasingly stark and Mather Pass loomed high above us. We would have a lot of climbing yet to do.

When we finally reached Mather Pass, we rested, drank water and took some photos. The climbing behind us, it would be all downhill for the rest of the day.

The descent on the south side of Mather Pass is intimidating. The trail is narrow with a series of switchbacks down a slope that seems impossibly steep. We had to keep our eyes on the trail — one misstep could be catastrophic.

It’s difficult to adequately express how steep this section of the trail is. To give you some sense, after we reached the Upper Basin, I paused to look back towards Mather Pass, and spotted a pack train slowly making their way down the trail. Impressive, and scary.

The Upper Basin looks a  bit like a moonscape.

We headed down along the headwaters of the Kings River. Other than the pack train behind us, we hadn’t seen anyone since the Palisade Lakes. It had been a long day, and while we originally had hoped to camp at the South Fork Junction, the sun was getting low and we started looking for a suitable place to camp for the night.

We were just beginning to get back below the tree line, when we saw a scraggly solo hiker headed up the trail. We stopped and said hello, and talked about where were were coming from. I asked the older gentleman if I could take a photo of him — to which he replied “I should probably tell you who I am…”

It turns out that we had run into Reinhold Metzger. He was 69 years old and on a 14-day NOBO (north-bound) JMT thru-hike — his 12th time. Not only that, but Reinhold previously held the unsupported thru-hike speed record of 4 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes.

The sun was setting, but Reinhold was planning to hike over Mather Pass and see how far he got. His gear was not particularly fancy or new — he even had an old external frame backpack. He was thinking about picking up some ultralight gear and maybe doing a yo-yo of the JMT (in his case, hiking north-bound, then turn around and doing it again south-bound).

Hike Your Own Hike

Some of my friends will hear about Reinhold’s hiking pace and his age, and give me some ribbing hiking the JMT so much slower. Still others will suggest he’s nuts for hiking in darkness and claim he’s missing the point.

The real truth? Our reasons for hiking are vastly different. Our ability to go further or faster vary. What we want to achieve can be very different, as well. So whether you’re hiking locally, or on the JMT, hike your own hike.

Trail Map: The Golden Staircase, Mather Pass and the Upper Basin

JMT Day 16 Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Subscribe to our Newsletter

Don’t miss a single day in our JMT series! Subscribe now and get email updates for each post on SoCal Hiker.

Got a question about the JMT? Something you’d like more info on? Post a question in the JMT forum!

Tomorrow, we head over Pinchot Pass to Woods Creek.

Originally hiked on August 11, 2010.

Day 15 on the John Muir Trail…

It gets cold at high elevations. We were camped just below Muir Pass, and well above 11,000 feet. We lingered in the warmth of our tent, emerging when sunlight illuminated the tops of the peaks to our west. Our campsite was entirely exposed, and yet completely private. We were in plain view of the JMT, but nobody was up on Muir Pass this early in the morning.

John Muir Trail Day 15

Distance: 11.8 miles
Cumulative Distance: 145.8 miles
Total Ascent: 1,232 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 37,858 ft
Harrison Map Sheet 5

Our itinerary for today involved a long downhill stretch into stunning Le Conte Canyon, followed by a short uphill section along Palisade Creek. We were grateful that there were no passes to climb today.

We broke camp and headed down the JMT.

The trail at times took us across wide sections of snow. The steep incline was intimidating, especially when you think about sliding down into a freezing cold creek or lake at the bottom. Fortunately the sun was warm, and the trail easy to pick up. Our trekking poles gave us additional confidence on the more slippery sections.

Glissading down the snow sounds like fun, except when it leads to this.

The bowl that we hiked down collected the run off from the melting snow fields, which in turn sought out the lowest point in the valley. We were watching the Kings River forming before our eyes.

“The snow is melting into music.” – John Muir

Muir’s words capture the essence of the experience.

We would follow this creek down into Le Conte Canyon and see it transform from a little creek to a raging river.

We paused at this unnamed lake for a late morning snack, being mindful of the lesson we learned yesterday about eating at regular intervals.

Heading down into Le Conte Canyon, there were a series of switchbacks with stunning views like this, with a pack train heading up the trail towards us.

At the 6.5 mile mark we came upon Little Pete Meadow. We had descended nearly 3,000 feet, and the trail smoothed out to a gently sloping valley. This meadow had some beautiful campsites, and we would have loved to stop for the night, but we still had another six miles to hike to stay on schedule. We made a note to return to Le Conte Canyon on another trip to explore this area more slowly.

We stopped at the Le Conte Ranger Station and picked up a note from Hari and Jeffrey. The were doing fine, maintaining their twenty-something pace that meant we probably wouldn’t see them tonight.

Sure enough, a few miles further down the trail we ran across Brian. He was the solo JMT thru-hiker that we shared a campsite with two nights ago, and he had shared the trail with Jeffrey and Hari for most of the day. Brian had found a campsite near beautiful Grouse Meadows and planned to try a little fishing. He confirmed that the other half of our group was doing fine, and were planning to camp near the base of the Golden Staircase.

Feeling the Pressure

Getting on the John Muir Trail meant unplugging from our daily lives. But back at Vermilion Valley Resort, I checked my email. Back home, my car was already packed and ready for me to move to grad school in Utah the very day we returned. Unfortunately, a friend had borrowed the car, and it broke down.

I knew I had to report to school on time, and now had to solve another problem — what to do with my car and all my belongings. I was feeling pressure to finish the trail as early as I could, so I could deal with my moving dilemma. So Jeffrey and I hiked on ahead, partly because we could, but mainly to allow extra time to deal with my car situation. It was another example of being flexible on the trail… and maybe not checking email! 

We continued our hike down Le Conte Canyon. The walls narrowed, the terrain became more rugged, and the King River cascaded noisily over the rocks.

We reached our junction with the trail to Mather Pass and followed it up beside Palisade Creek — our first real ascent of the day. We climbed uphill for about a mile and a quarter, and stopped for the night at an established campsite. We used the rain fly with the tent tonight. The clouds we had seen earlier today looked unpredictable, and getting rain-soaked at night was not in our plan.

Trail Map: Le Conte Canyon to Palisade Creek

JMT Day 15 Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Subscribe to our Newsletter

Don’t miss a single day in our JMT series! Subscribe now and get email updates for each post on SoCal Hiker.

Got a question about the JMT? Something you’d like more info on? Post a question in the JMT forum!

Tomorrow, we would climb the Golden Staircase and Mather Pass.

Originally hiked on August 10, 2010.

Day 14 on the John Muir Trail…

This morning we warmed ourselves by a campfire as our new friend Brian defrosted his pants, still wet from his creek crossing yesterday. Today we would hike over Muir Pass (11,955′) — our highest pass to date and home to the iconic stone Muir Hut.

John Muir Trail Day 14

Distance: 10.1 miles
Cumulative Distance: 134 miles
Total Ascent: 3,155 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 36,626 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 6 and 5

The  first section of the trail followed the forested floor of Evolution Valley, gradually climbing.

At the two mile mark, we climbed a series of switchbacks, taking us above the tree-line, where we would remain for the rest of the day. The landscape changes above the tree-line, sometimes resembling a moonscape — other than the the lakes dotting our path.

We stopped at Evolution Lake to filter water, munch on some food and enjoy a little patch of green grass under the blue skies.

Joan Considers Homesteading

After leaving Evolution Lake, I wasn’t feeling well. My head ached, and my stomach was uneasy. I didn’t know if I could go on, and at one point I decided I was going to sit down and live in that spot for the rest of my life.

Jeffrey suggested I eat something every hour. There are times when you don’t feel hungry or thirsty, but at these altitudes, it’s more important than ever to provide hydration and fuel.

I ate, rested and we continued on, albiet at a slower pace. And as much as I loved the beauty of the mountains, I’m glad they talked me out of living the rest of my life in that spot on the trail.  

During our break, Hari and Jeffrey were concerned that Joan might not make it to the end of the John Muir Trail. After rest, food, water and some time to think, we reached a decision. Hari and Jeff would hike on ahead as a team. Joan and I would stick together as a team. We would stick with the original exit date, but they would not wait up for us if we took longer.

We hoisted our backpacks and hiked on, now officially in two teams.

Wanda Lake was beautiful, but the weather was becoming bleak. Dark clouds loomed ominously, and the wind chilled us.

The Final Stretch to Muir Pass

I have to pause here to say a few words about that final mile to Muir Pass. It sucks. It’s a dreary, “trail” up an area covered with granite gravel. There is no dirt — just softball-sized gravel that makes each step a chore. It didn’t help matters that we were tired and it was towards the end of our day, or that we were at the highest altitude yet. But we had spied Muir Hut on the pass, and were determined to reach it.

And reach it we did. We took time to take some photos and duck inside where we had protection from the wind.

Muir Hut

Muir Hut is a marvel of construction. It’s built of rocks gathered from the area, but sand and other materials had to be brought in four or more miles. The conical roof structure is amazing, especially from inside. Clark Fork has additional details on the history of Muir Hut.

“This building was constructed in 1930 by the Sierra Club in cooperation with the Sierra National Forest and dedicated to the memory of John Muir.

The Muir Hut is intended as a temporary shelter for hikers caught in storms on this exposed section of the trail. Overnight camping and fires are prohibited.” – From the plaque inside Muir Hut

At this point, the clouds were looking pretty ominous, we decided to hike down the trail and make camp at the first good spot. We didn’t have to go far. We set up near a small unnamed lake just above Helen Lake. We had just barely enough room to clear an area for our tent, but we had an amazing view of the light show as the sun set.

We had two weeks on the John Muir Trail under our belts. It was another rewarding day on the trail.

Trail Map: McClure Meadow to Muir Pass and Helen Lake

JMT Day 14 Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Subscribe to our Newsletter

Don’t miss a single day in our JMT series! Subscribe now and get email updates for each post on SoCal Hiker.

Got a question about the JMT? Something you’d like more info on? Post a question in the JMT forum!

Tomorrow, we hike through the stunning Le Conte Canyon and up Palisade Creek. 

Originally hiked on August 9, 2010.

Day 13 on the John Muir Trail…

We slept not too far away from Muir Trail Ranch, with the headwaters of the San Joaquin providing our soundtrack for the night. Fortunately, our bear bag was unmolested. We broke camp and hiked about a quarter mile back to MTR to enjoy the promised breakfast (it was well worth it).

John Muir Trail Day 13

Distance: 10.8 miles
Cumulative Distance: 123.9 miles
Total Ascent: 4,036 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 33,471 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 7 and 6

Jeffrey and Hari took the purist approach, retracing our steps up the valley to the junction we left the JMT at yesterday. Joan and I opted for the easier trail along the valley bottom. Both trails met up at the 1.6 mile mark.

A bit further beyond that was the John Muir Trail Cabin. This wasn’t a cabin that Muir himself ever stayed in, but it was built in his honor.

Today we would hike into Kings Canyon National Park. This park easily rivals Yosemite in beauty, but is much more wild and unspoiled. We bid farewell to the John Muir Wilderness, and crossed this bridge into Kings Canyon.

The JMT follows along the South Fork of the San Joaquin River for over six miles, and the canyon becomes narrow, steep and rugged.

The trail winds through the canyon, climbing ever higher and crossing the fast-moving water on two more bridges. These bridges are amazing feats of engineering, especially given their remote location. And we were thankful they were there. The water ran high and fast, and I can’t imagine crossing any other way.

At mile 6.6, we crossed the third bridge for the day, and began the super steep switchbacks climbing up beside Evolution Creek. At the crest, you get a little breather and then, a boots-off creek crossing. This was thigh-high water, and while it doesn’t look treacherous, it is flowing fast and has a strong pull.

On the other side of Evolution Creek, we decided to stop for dinner. We fired up the stove and enjoyed some warm food, then cleaned up and hiked on to McClure Meadow.

Dinner: In Camp or on the Trail?

One of the questions thru-hikers grapple with is where to cook and eat. Because the John Muir Trail runs through bear country, it is recommended that you don’t cook or eat where you sleep, as the scents from the food will attract bears.

Some thru-hikers take this very seriously, stopping to cook and eat, then cleaning up, packing up and hiking the final one or two miles to camp, as we did tonight.

For us, we would typically cook, eat and clean well away from our sleeping area, but within eye’s view. We found it easier than stopping and starting again.

Jeffrey, Joan and I finished the final 2-1/2 miles and rolled into camp right at sundown. Hari had already set up camp with another JMT thru-hiker named Brian. We warmed up around a campfire sipping hot chocolate and sharing our tales from the trail.

Trail Map: Muir Trail Ranch to McClure Meadow

JMT Day 13 Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Subscribe to our Newsletter

Don’t miss a single day in our JMT series! Subscribe now and get email updates for each post on SoCal Hiker.

Got a question about the JMT? Something you’d like more info on? Post a question in the JMT forum!

Tomorrow, we head over Muir Pass!

Originally hiked on August 8, 2010.

Day Four on the John Muir Trail

I was looking forward to this day. The mileage was a little easier, and the first nine miles were up the almost imperceptible incline of Lyell Canyon. Getting in later than expected on Day Three meant hanging around until the Tuolumne Meadows Post Office opened so we could pick up our resupply package.

While we waited, we feasted on tasty breakfast burritos at the café. The post office doesn’t open until 9am, and then we had to divvy up the foodstuffs, squeeze everything into our bear canisters and reload our packs. As we were repacking, we met some fellow JMT thru-hikers also picking up their resupply. I’ve found that camaraderie amongst backcountry hikers is effortless.  As John Muir said, “One touch of Nature makes the whole world kin.” You feel that kinship among just about everyone you meet on the trail. I think Muir was on to something.

John Muir Trail Day 4

Distance: 10.25 miles
Cumulative Distance: 40.75 miles
Total Ascent: 1,475 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 12,570 ft
Harrison Map Sheet 12
GPX file

The trail up Lyell Canyon was heavenly. Well, the first nine miles or so.

First off, the trail is soft, smooth and straight. It’s as close to level as you’ll see on the JMT. And it parallels the sublime waters of the Lyell Fork creek. The waters of Lyell Fork were so clear and so stunning, it was difficult to keep out of the water. So we jumped in! 

At our lunch break, Joan and I (Jeffrey and Hari were up ahead, as routine) found a secluded boulder outcrop next to a wide, deep section of the creek. We kicked our boots off and stretched out on the boulders like lizards in the sun. When it got a little too warm, we jumped into the invigorating water, washing away the trail grime and sweat. It was heaven on earth.

We lazily lounged about for two hours, enjoying the perfect setting, and then decided we’d better hit the trail again if we were going to make camp before nightfall.

Enjoying the Journey

We found that by the end of the day, we were so exhausted, that after cleaning up from dinner, we just wanted to climb into our tent to sleep. I loved our long lunches when we lounged, soaked our tired feet in the water, and took some time to enjoy the moment.

Our elevation gain for the day was modest by JMT standards (about 1,475 ft). But most of it was in the last mile. The trail is made up of granite steps better suited to horses than humans. This makes sense because both the JMT and the PCT were designed specifically to support horses, explaining in part the giant-sized steps we climbed to our camp for the night.

We made camp at Upper Lyell Canyon, just before the wooden bridge. There are a number of great camp sites here, and they are spread out far enough that although we had seen other hikers there, we weren’t aware of their presence when we were at our camp site.

Lyell Fork runs rapid here, so filtering water required extra caution. We didn’t want to fall in or lose any equipment.

And at an elevation of 9,670 ft, we were nearing the tree line. Tomorrow we’d be heading over snow-covered Donohue Pass and saying good-bye to Yosemite.

Tuolumne Meadows to Upper Lyell Canyon

This map details our journey on Day 4 of the JMT, from Tuolumne Meadows to Upper Lyell Canyon. You’ll notice that the trail follows a nice, gentle slope for the first nine miles, then ends with a strenuous climb. Phew!

JMT Day 4 Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Subscribe to our Newsletter

Don’t miss a single day in our JMT series! Subscribe now and get email updates for each post on SoCal Hiker.

Got a question about the JMT? Something you’d like more info on? Post a question in the JMT forum!

Tomorrow, we hike over Donohue and Island Pass and down to Thousand Island Lake. 

Originally hiked on July 30, 2010. 

Day 3 on the John Muir Trail and we were starting a long way from where we originally planned to camp. Our unauthorized off-trail camp dubbed The Middle of Somewhere was beautiful and quiet, but we had 3.5 miles to hike just to get to Sunrise High Sierra Camp, where we should’ve been starting. If you do the math, that means that yesterday’s little excursion to Clouds Rest turned today’s easy 8.6 mile trek into a more rigorous 12.1 miles.

John Muir Trail Day 3

Distance: 12.1 miles
Cumulative Distance: 30.5 miles
Total Ascent: 2,124 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 11,095 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 13 and 12
GPX file

The water on Sunrise Lakes was still, reflecting like a mirror.  We hiked quietly, passing only a few other backpackers, and felt as though we had the mountains to ourselves.

From Sunrise Lakes, we pass over a saddle and down to Sunrise High Sierra Camp. Finally we were back on the JMT. We stopped for lunch but didn’t linger — the mosquitos were as hungry as we were.

From here the trail winds along the perimeter of the meadow, slowly and steadily climbing towards Cathedral Pass — the first of many mountain passes on the JMT. From the pass it’s a well-shaded, downhill trek to the Tuolumne Meadows.

When we reached Tuolumne Meadows, it was tempting to think we had “arrived.” We caught glimpses of Tioga Road through the trees and could hear passing cars. There were more casual hikers in the area, but we still had a full mile yet to go before we would reach the backpacker’s campground. It was one of those times when a mile seems longer than it really is.

Hari and Jeffrey were already there and had staked out a spot for us. Unfortunately the Tuolumne Post Office had closed about 15 minutes earlier, so we would have to wait to pick-up our resupply package until the morning. Fortunately, the diner was open. We feasted on cheeseburgers and fries. We earned it.

Three days on the John Muir Trail were under our belts. We summited Half Dome and Clouds Rest. And we made it to our first resupply point — Tuolumne Meadows.

Resupply at Tuolumne

You might wonder why you would bother resupplying at Tuolumne — a mere three days into a three week trek on the JMT. Consider this: you will carry on average two pounds of food, per person, per day. The next resupply point is Reds Meadow — three days further. Skipping this resupply point would mean carrying an extra six pounds. The math says, resupply at Tuolumne.

Middle of Somewhere to Tuolumne Meadows

This map details our journey from our off trail camp to Sunrise High Sierra Camp, over Cathedral Pass and down to Tuolumne Meadows.

JMT Day 3 Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Subscribe to our Newsletter

Don’t miss a single day in our JMT series! Subscribe now and get email updates for each post on SoCal Hiker.

Got a question about the JMT? Something you’d like more info on? Post a question in the JMT forum!

Tomorrow, we head up Lyell Canyon.

Originally hiked on July 29, 2010. 

It’s day two on the John Muir Trail. We woke up feeling creaky but confident. Hiking up Half Dome on day one tested our mettle. Today, we planned to hike 10.4 miles to the Sunrise High Sierra Camp. We ate our super-charged oatmeal breakfast and broke camp. As we were getting ready to leave, we saw a bear wandering near the western edge of the camp.

Black bears are common along the JMT, especially in the more popular areas such as Little Yosemite Valley. That’s one of the reasons they have bear lockers for your food in some places, and require an approved bear-proof canister for food storage everywhere else.

This bear was getting ready to wander into the campground to snag some unsuspecting camper’s breakfast or an open bear box — both reasons to be vigilant with your food in the mountains.  Black bears won’t chase you down unless they or their young are threatened. We chose to keep a safe distance and admire the bear from afar.

John Muir Trail Day 2

Distance: 6.8 miles
Cumulative Distance: 18.4 miles
Total Ascent: 3,971 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 8,971 ft
Harrison Map Sheet 13
GPX file (official JMT)
GPX file (Clouds Rest)

There is also a junction here with a trail to Clouds Rest. 

Hari and Jeffrey — armed with the energy of youth — were well ahead of us.  Joan and I hiked at our normal slow-and-steady pace. Joan suspected we were too far from Sunrise Creek, and questioned my navigation skills. I reassured her that we were on the correct trail, and we kept hiking onward (and upward).

The climb was suspiciously relentless. We weren’t supposed to be gaining this much elevation, were we? Soon, I was second-guessing myself. We consulted with some hikers coming down the trail toward us. “Hi! Where ya’ coming from?” is the typical refrain when passing other hikers on the trail. “Sunrise” they replied. I took this to confirm that we were in fact headed in the right direction, since we were headed towards Sunrise High Sierra Camp.

We continued on, hiking even higher.

There’s a peculiar truth about the psychology of climbing thousands of feet of elevation gain. You don’t want that climbing to be for nothing. You sincerely want to be right, so you haven’t “wasted” that effort, only to have to retrace your steps and hike even further than you had planned. That’s where I was at, and the higher we hiked, the more committed I had become.

Another group of hikers came down the trail toward us. “Where ya hiking from?” “Oh, we’re coming down from Clouds Rest.”

Ugh. Not what I had wanted to hear. 

I ate humble pie and we revisited our map to come up with Plan B. It turns out, we were well on our way to Clouds Rest and miles up the wrong trail. We decided to continue on and past Sunrise Lakes (obviously the “Sunrise” the earlier hikers had referred to). From there a trail looped down to Sunrise High Sierra Camp. We wouldn’t make it today, but we wouldn’t be too far off, either.

Jeff Eats Humble Pie

The John Muir Trail is very well marked, but you still need to know how to navigate… and listen to your girlfriend! Although Joan will be the first to admit she is generally “directionally challenged,” she was 100% right on this one. I chose the wrong trail, then stubbornly insisted on following it. There’s a lesson in there…

Always Look at the Bright Side of Life

The benefit of our “alternative” route is that we got to summit not only Half Dome, yesterday, but Clouds Rest today. Clouds Rest has magnificent views of Half Dome, Yosemite Valley, and 360 degrees of pure wilderness beauty. And although Jeffrey slack-packed up here yesterday afternoon, we could boast that we summited with our full backpacks. Hah!

Impromptu off-trail camp

I discovered that I once again had cell reception on Clouds Rest (thank you AT&T) and left a message for Jeffrey and Hari explaining that we would meet them at Tuolumne Meadows tomorrow.

After Clouds Rest, we continued until on past an tiny unnamed creek and setup an impromptu and unauthorized camp for the night off trail. This is strictly against the rules in Yosemite, but we weren’t prepared to hike through the darkness. We were very careful to choose a spot where we would leave no trace. We setup camp for the night in a little place I like to call The Middle of Somewhere, because we knew where we were, but weren’t where we planned to be.

Little Yosemite Valley to Clouds Rest and the Middle of Somewhere

This map details our journey from Little Yosemite Valley to Cloud’s Rest and on to our impromptu off-trail camp.

Jeffrey and Hari managed to stay on the JMT, but decided to power on past Sunrise (too many mosquitos) and camped at the Cathedral Lakes (also too many mosquitos, but not enough energy or time to continue further). Jeffrey captured some great shots of the lake at the golden hour.

This also set them up for an easy 5 mile hike downhill hike to Tuolumne Meadows the next day.

Little Yosemite Valley to Cathedral Lakes

This is the “correct” route along the JMT which Jeffrey and Hari followed.

JMT Day 2 Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Subscribe to our Newsletter

Don’t miss a single day in our JMT series! Subscribe now and get email updates for each post on SoCal Hiker.

Got a question about the JMT? Something you’d like more info on? Post a question in the JMT forum!

Tomorrow, we head to Tuolumne Meadows for our first resupply.

Originally hiked on July 28, 2010. 

The night is fading as we awaken, excited to finally start hiking the John Muir Trail. I slept like a log at the backpacker’s campground, but Jeffrey and Hari heard people chasing a bear away from the car campground. We eat a quick breakfast, break camp, don our backpacks and walk along the road to our official starting point, the trailhead at Happy Isles.

John Muir Trail Day 1

Distance: 11.6 miles
Cumulative Distance: 11.6 miles
Total Ascent: 5,000 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 5,000 ft
Harrison Map Sheet 13
GPX file

At the backpacker’s campground, getting ready to pack up and hit the JMT!

While not part of the official mileage, first we had to get to the trailhead.

We reached the trailhead took the obligatory starting photo.

The “trail” starts out as a paved, asphalt path due to the sheer number of people who head up this route to visit Vernal and Nevada Falls. Most of the other people on the path are day hikers, gawking at our packs and gear. We’re on an emotional high, as months of planning, training and preparation finally bears fruit.

As we climb higher, we hear and see the mighty falls, with Liberty Dome and Half Dome. The thought races through our minds — “We’re going to be up there later today?!”

We buzz along, taking photos and stopping for a snack at the top of Nevada Falls. Although we’ve been here before, it feels great to be back, this time on a bona fide adventure.

Above the falls, the trail climbs a bit more, finally leveling out along the headwaters of the Merced River. The John Muir Trail splits here. To the right, it runs close to the river through coarsely ground granite — difficult to hike in. To the left, it gets more sun exposure. Both lead the final mile to the campground at Little Yosemite Valley.

Happy Isles to Little Yosemite Valley

This map details our journey from Happy Isles to the Little Yosemite Valley campground.

At this point, we’ve hiked a modest 4.4 miles, but gained over 2,000 ft in elevation. We found a suitable campsite (don’t expect solitude — this campground is booked solid, and nearly as cramped as the backpacker’s campground in the valley), dropped our backpacks and stowed our food in the bear locker.  We put together a slack-pack with water and snacks, and headed up Half Dome.

Little Yosemite Valley to Half Dome

After dropping our gear and setting up camp, we hiked this route up Half Dome and back.

Half Dome Permits

Because of the volume of foot traffic Half Dome gets, a permit system was introduced. When we hiked this, you were allowed to include Half Dome if you had a permit for the John Muir Trail.

Today  you must specifically request this as part of your wilderness permit if you plan to include a side-trip to Half Dome. See Half Dome Permits for Backpackers for details.

Heading up Half Dome is a 7.2 mile round trip from Little Yosemite Valley, with another 2,700 ft of elevation gain.

We reached the shoulder, and climb the series of steep switchbacks with big steps carved into the granite. This section is a little gnarly, as one mis-step and you’re in for a nasty tumble. From the top of that, you actually descend to the saddle and the base of the cables.

While the practice is discouraged, it’s common to see a pile of gloves at the base of the cables. Pick up a pair and use them. I’ve seen the bloody hands of those who chose to skip using gloves, so either suck it up and borrow a used pair or bring your own.

Going up the cables is pretty simple and also pretty safe — as long as you use common sense. The two cables are elevated to “railing” height, and there are wood boards laid at roughly 12 foot intervals where you can stand on the steep granite and give your arms a rest. The dangerous part is that there are many other people going up and down these same cables, and each time you pass someone, the negotiation takes extra care. We made a point to stop at those boards when meeting someone coming down the cables.

Jeffrey and Hari were already at the top as Joan and I ascended the cables. About half way up, I heard Joan call out. She was feeling nervous and wanted to go back down. I came back down the cables to her and we talked through it. Finally, she decided to give it another try, with me right behind her. She made it!

Joan on Day 1 of the JMT

“Even though we had trained extensively, I was nervous and not really sure what it would be like. Just walking to the trailhead along the road my pack felt really heavy! As the day went on, it got easier… until we hiked up Half Dome. It’s a tough hike, and I got really scared on the cables. I felt like I was holding up the line. When I made it to the top, I felt great!

“I was exhausted when we got back to camp, but felt like if I could do Half Dome, I could do anything.”

The top of Half Dome is broad — about the size of a football field. You can wander around pretty safely as long as you’re careful around the edges. We enjoyed the views, took lots of photos, then headed back down.

Half Dome Tips

• Going down the cables, a lot of people get really uptight and nervous. What I’ve found works best is to face downhill and “walk” down Half Dome using my gloved hands as brakes. Instead of standing upright, my body is perpendicular to the slope. This seems a little unnatural at first, but gives you a lot of control and worked well for Joan, also.
• There’s no reliable water source between Little Yosemite Valley and Half Dome, so plan accordingly. Once you reach the saddle, you’ll have a lot of sun exposure and with the elevation and climbing, it’s easy to get dehydrated. We had about a liter each, and wished we could’ve had just a bit more.

Back at Little Yosemite Valley, we wandered down to the Merced and took a refreshing dip in the water. As we filtered water, we spied a deer and fawn casually crossing upstream. An idyllic scene.

Hari, Joan and I cooked and ate dinner. Jeffrey had a goal to hike up Cloud’s Rest in addition to Half Dome (insane, right?). The sun set and we began to get a little worried when Jeffrey didn’t show up. We checked with the rangers at the Little Yosemite Valley ranger station, and they basically said to wait. We actually had cell phone coverage up here (I’m on AT&T) and left him a voice message as well as a text. Finally about 9:30pm, Jeffrey made it back to camp.  Yes, he climbed Half Dome and Cloud’s Rest on his first day of the JMT.

JMT Day 1 Photo Gallery

Click on any photo to view a larger version. You can also leave comments on any photo.

Subscribe to our Newsletter

Don’t miss a single day in our JMT series! Subscribe now and get email updates for each post on SoCal Hiker.

Tomorrow, we head from Little Yosemite Valley to Sunrise.

Originally hiked on July 27, 2010.

Here’s an interactive example at the Colorado River and the bottom of the Grand Canyon. You can move forward, backward, and look around just like you can in Street View. Give it a try!

How did they do it? A team strapped on the Trekker — a 40 pound backpack with a 15-lens camera system and hiked… and hiked… and hiked some more. In all they hiked over 75 miles of trails, capturing over 9,500 interactive, panoramic photos of the magnificent Grand Canyon National Park.

Take your virtual hike of the Grand Canyon, then plan your trip!

Start your exploration at the World Wonders Project.