Backpacking the Wonderland Trail in Mount Rainier National Park is a great way to test the thru-hiking waters to see if it’s for you. Joan and I visited Mount Rainier National Park for the first time in 2018, as we were scouting trails for the Pacific Northwest Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. We were awestruck by this majestic mountain. The 14,411 foot active stratovolcano is so massive that it creates its own weather systems. I knew I’d be back.

The Wonderland Trail is a 93-mile trail that loops completely around Mount Rainier. You might assume that it’s easier because it’s going around a mountain rather than over mountain crests. You would be wrong. The Wonderland Trail climbs and falls 23,000 feet over those 93 miles. You are constantly either going up or going down.

Wonderland Trail Overview

Distance: 93 miles
Time: 3-14 days
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain/loss: 25,593 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: July-September

Jason had previously attempted a thru-hike that was aborted due to his hiking partner’s illness, so this was a sort of “redemption hike” for him. He suggested modifying our route from the official trail, taking more scenic Spray Park route between Mowich Lake and Carbon River. This guide covers the Wonderland Trail using the Spray Park alternate.

Wonderland Trail Map & Elevation Profile (Spray Park Alternate)

Itinerary

After hiking the John Muir Trail and many other trips in the Sierra Nevada mountains and elsewhere, I was surprised to learn that there is no dispersed camping along the Wonderland Trail (there is dispersed camping in the park, but by specific permit, and generally well off the Wonderland Trail). On the Wonderland Trail there are 18 established camps (plus two more on the Spray Park Trail), each with a specific number of sites.

Campsites are designed to accommodate up to five people and two tents, with some camps also having group sites that could accommodate up to 12 people. Your permit requires a detailed, day-by-day itinerary that states which campsite you will stay at on each specific date of your trip.

When we did our original planning, we were using an 11-day itinerary using this excellent online itinerary planner. It provides some really useful tools, including the distance between camps, sunrise/sunset times and hours of daylight.

Clockwise or Counter-clockwise? When you plan your itinerary, you’ll need to decide where you want to start, and whether you want to hike clockwise or counter-clockwise. Most folks hike clockwise, where the biggest inclines are not as steep. Either way, you’ll cover the same mileage and climb (and descend) the same total vertical feet. We happened to hike clockwise.

Permits

Scoring permits for the Wonderland Trail turned out to be our first challenge. You can submit your permit request beginning on March 15th. Permit requests are only accepted online, but there is no rush to submit. Submit your request anytime between March 15th and March 31st. Rangers begin processing the requests on April 1st in random order. Each permit request includes a non-refundable $20 fee that is paid whether you are awarded a permit or not. You increase your odds by having flexibility in start dates and avoiding peak times (weekend and holidays).

In our case, the three of us each applied for a permit, with different start dates and slightly different itineraries. Our hope was that at least one of us would get a permit. Sadly, none of us got a permit. 

Fortunately, 30% of the campsites are reserved for walk-in permits. We had allotted two weeks for the trip to give ourselves flexibility, and decided to take our chances. Jason and I drove to Longmire on Sunday and found an open car campsite at Cougar Rock Campground. Once we reserved that, we drove down to Longmire, walked into the Wilderness Information Center at 2pm and walked out 30 minutes later with a permit to start the trail the next day.

Instead of doing the trail in 11 days as originally planned, we opted to maximize our available time off and take 13 days to hike the trail. Because of the lengthy duration of our trip (most trips on the Wonderland Trail are closer to 6-9 days), we were able to score some of the most-coveted campsites along the way. Your permit lists your day-by-day itinerary, and must be attached to the outside of your pack when hiking, and your tent when camped. And in case you’re wondering, rangers checked our permits two times along the trail.

For walk-in permits, the ranger handed us a blank itinerary and a print-out showing current availability for each campsite by date. We were warned to be quick about filling it out, as there are three ranger stations on the trail where hikers can request walk-in permits. All are working from the same availability data, so while a site might be available when the ranger hands you the list, by the time you turn in your itinerary, someone at a different ranger station may have already taken that last campsite. In our case, we were pretty lucky. First, we were starting on a Monday (rather than a weekend date). Second, we had 12 nights of camping along the way. While the first two days would require a lot of miles, we would have plenty of short, easy mileage days on the second half of our trip.

Resupply

There are three main locations to ship or cache resupply packages: Longmire, Mowich Lake and Sunrise. Our hope was that we would start in Longmire, so we shipped resupply packages for both Mowich Lake and Sunrise. Another option would be to drive to the location(s) where you want to put a cache, which is feasible if you have day before you begin your thru-hike. Following the directions on the NPS website, we shipped in 5-gallon plastic bins, taped shut, via Fedex. It was expensive (~$158 for four buckets) so that might factor into your decision on the number of resupply packages, or whether you want to hand-deliver them the day before your trip begins.

One important tip: The NPS website tells you to write the date that the cache will be picked up on the container, but it doesn’t explain why. They have bear-proof storage boxes that are not large enough to store all of the caches. The rangers will fill the storage boxes with the caches based on the pickup date, and store the remainder in a secure area that you cannot get to. Since we were shooting to get walk-in permits, we didn’t know exactly what dates we would pick-up each cache, so we put down a date range.

Resupply at the Mowich Lake Ranger Station

As it turned out, all three of us got our resupply shipments at Mowich Lake, but Derek’s package was not in the storage at Sunrise. Fortunately he was able to track down a ranger who was able to open up the building where the other caches were stored, and his resupply package was found. The date of pickup is important, or else be sure to get there before the ranger station closes.

If you ship your resupply packages, bear in mind that you cannot ship fuel. We planned for this and carried a bit extra from the start. We were able to purchase additional canisters as well as snacks at the small store at Sunrise.

Planning Resources for Backpacking the Wonderland Trail

• Wilderness Camping & Hiking – Overview and essential info from the Mount Rainier National Park website
• Caching Food and Fuel – Official Mount Rainier NPS site
• Hiking the Wonderland Trail by Tami Asars – The Mountaineers Books
• Wonderland Trail Itinerary Planner
• Essential Wonderland Trail Resources – includes the tools we used both for planning on on trail

Backpacking the Wonderland Trail, Day-by-Day

The remainder of this guide outlines our counter-clockwise journey on the Wonderland Trail, beginning near Longmire and taking the Spray Park alternate route. I’ve divided it roughly into three segments: Longmire to Mowich Lake; Mowich to Sunrise; and Sunrise back to Longmire.

You can travel with us with a day-by-day guide based on the itinerary we used to hike the Wonderland Trail, with photos, trail description map and elevation profile.

Longmire to Mowich Lake

• Day 1: Devil’s Dream
• Day 2: North Puyallup River
• Day 3: Golden Lakes
• Day 4: South Mowich River
• Day 5: Mowich Lake (Eagle’s Roost)

Mowich Lake to Sunrise

• Day 6: Dick Creek
• Day 7: Mystic Camp
• Day 8: Granite Creek
• Day 9: Sunrise

Sunrise to Longmire

• Day 10: Summerland
• Day 11: Indian Bar
• Day 12: Maple Creek
• Day 13: Longmire

Postscript

Would I have done anything differently were I to hike the trail again?

• I combine a few of the days and complete the trail in 11 days vs 13 days. I enjoyed the lazy short days, but they were maybe a little too lazy for me.
• I would put more variety and just plain thought into my meal planning. I did the expedient thing, and brought dehydrated meals for dinners. Towards the end I was yearning for something a little different, and I think that could be achieved by putting a little more thought into the planning and preparation.
• One thing that was a hit? Flour tortillas and Nutella. Tasty, durable, packable, and loads of energy. I learned that tip from Carsten Jost when we backpacked in Grand Teton National Park. It’s a keeper.
• And for another perspective on the same trip, check out Derek’s Wonderland post over at 100Peaks.com.

Originally hiked between August 5-17, 2019 with Jason Fitzpatrick and Derek Loranger.

First up is the wonderful book Hiking the Wonderland Trail by Tami Asars. I used the paperback version as I was researching the trail and planning our trip. Derek had the Kindle version, so he was able to reference a downloaded copy on his iPhone. Tami has hiked the Wonderland Trail many times, and this was the best book I found covering the Wonderland Trail.

Highly recommended.

I always bring a paper map. National Geographic’s Wonderland Trail Map was an invaluable reference that I carried with me on the trail. Even though the Wonderland Trail is pretty well marked, it’s useful to have a reference to quickly identify geographic features, water sources, and side trails.

This map is printed on durable, water-resistant paper and is organized in pages, rather than a fold-out map. Each two-page spread includes an elevation profile for the section shown.

Guthook Guides app with the Wonderland Trail data. The app is free and available for iOS and Android, but you’ll pay for the trail data. It is super-cool because the data is downloaded to your phone, and uses your phone’s GPS data to locate you. You’ll know in a snap exactly how far it is to your camp, or the nearest water source.

I’ve heard of Guthook Guides since they first came out for the PCT years ago, but this trip was the first time I actually used it. I’m hooked.

For emergencies (we thankfully had none), weather reports, and communication with our families back home, the Garmin InReach Mini is highly recommended.

I have an older model that I’ve used for several years, but when it comes time to replace it, I’ll get the Mini. You use your smartphone as the primary interface for typing messages (which is preferred anyway) and you can send and receive text messages with your family.  If there were an emergency, you can also alert Search and Rescue (SAR).

Keeping my iPhone and Apple Watch charged? I used an Anker PowerCore Charger. Yes, I wore my Apple Watch and used my iPhone extensively on this trip. I tracked our route, took photos and more.

I tried using a solar panel on the John Muir Trail, but over time, I’ve found that a portable battery like this is much more effective and reliable.

Some of these links are affiliate links, meaning we earn a small commission if you click the link and purchase. The pricing isn’t affected, but you’ll help support our trail guides at SoCalHiker.net, and for that we are thankful. – Jeff 

Click on the gallery to view larger, and leave a comment on a photo if you can help me identify them.

Each year at our Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge Finishers Party, we do an exercise we call Your Next Adventure. We ask everyone to take an index card and a permanent marker and write down their big adventure goals for the year ahead. The simple act of committing it to paper, and sharing it with others is the first step towards making a dream become reality.

UPDATE: Due to the Coronavirus pandemic, our trip was postponed one year, so I’ll be attempting this in 2021. 

A dream written down with a date becomes a goal. A goal broken down into steps becomes a plan. A plan backed by action makes your dreams come true.  – Greg S. Reid

Two years ago, my big goal was to climb Mount Shasta. Last year, it was to thru-hike the Wonderland Trail. For 2020, my big goal is to climb Mount Rainier. It will be an attempt, as any mountain as big, gnarly and technical as Rainier may have other ideas. The weather may not cooperate. Someone on our team might get injured. There are any number of reasons why the climb might be called off. And so you have to go into it telling yourself (and others) not that “I’m going to climb Mount Rainier” but rather “I’m going to attempt to climb Mount Rainier.” Statistically, only about half the people who attempt to climb Mount Rainier in any given year successfully reach the summit.

Climbing Mount Rainier with a Guide Service or as an Independent Group?

Once I had made the commitment to climb Mount Rainier, the next step was to assess whether this was something I wanted to tackle with a guide service, or as an independent group. Mount Rainier is the most technical mountain I will have attempted, mainly because of the weather conditions, the glacier travel (often with deep crevasses), and the gear required. I had coaxed one of my Wonderland Trail friends, Jason Fitzpatrick to join me on this adventure, after all, we had hiked all the way around the mountain. We might as well climb it.

We quickly decided that going with a guide service would be well worth the additional cost. Neither of us have aspirations of following this attempt with more technical climbs, so having the support of experts who have done this dozens if not hundreds of times themselves would be invaluable. And just as it’s helpful to hike a new trail with someone who has been there before, there’s a comfort that comes with going with an experienced guide.

We opted to sign-up with International Mountain Guides for their 3-1/2 day climb via the “standard” Disappointment Cleaver route. They have a 2:1 client-to-guide ratio, and permanent camps setup at Camp Muir and The Flats (our two overnight camps on Rainier). They provide the tents, stoves, group climbing gear, and even cook breakfast and dinner (I’ve heard rumors of awesome breakfast burritos). This means I won’t have to carry quite as much stuff, and my pack weight should come in around 35 pounds; a lot for a summer backpacking trip, but relatively light for winter mountaineering.

The cost for a guide service isn’t cheap. Booking the 3-1/2 day climb with IMG cost $1,571, and that doesn’t even including getting up to Mount Rainier National Park from Southern California. Paying that bill made the commitment all the more real. I had skin in the game.

Rescue Travel Insurance

One of the items that IMG strongly recommends is rescue travel insurance. I ended up getting the trip insured through Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance. I’m covered in the event of a medical or rescue evacuation, as well as trip cancellation (fingers crossed that COVID-19 doesn’t become a factor).

Disappointment Cleaver-Ingraham Glacier Route Overview

Our first half day is spent at IMG headquarters reviewing the gear and schedule. The climbing begins on day two. We begin at the Paradise Ranger Station (5,420 feet) and climb the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir (10,030 feet). We will climb nearly 4,600 feet in 4.5 miles, practicing climbing techniques along the way. Incidentally, Camp Muir has a couple of stone huts and is said to be quite lively with groups of climbers and hikers gathering year round. Camp Muir is the highest point on Mount Rainier that you can climb without a climbers permit, as it is (technically-speaking) a non-technical ascent. As long as you stay on the Muir Snowfield, there is no glacier travel to that point. Camp Muir is also one of the goals of the Pacific Northwest Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge.

Day three, we do glacier travel and skills training on the Cowlitz Glacier before a relatively easy and short climb up Cathedral Gap, then up the Ingraham Glacier to our final camp at The Flats (11,200 feet). We retire early for a short sleep and and alpine start shortly after midnight.

On day four, we start by the light of our headlamps (similar to what I did with Mount Shasta from Lake Helen) with the goal of climbing the remaining 3,210 vertical feet to the summit near sunrise. From there, it’s all the way back down to Paradise in one long day with 12-14 hours of trekking.

And that’s if all goes well.

Next up

In my next two posts, I’ll be talking about the gear requirements for climbing Mount Rainier and go over my training program.

Day 13: Cougar Rock

Distance: 9.3 miles
Time: 4 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation +/-: 1,972’/1,925′

About a mile up the canyon we reached Sylvia Falls, though the forest was thick and it was difficult to get an unobstructed view of the falls.

We managed to navigate the washout section in Stevens Canyon — arguably the sketchiest part of the entire Wonderland Trail when we hiked it. There was a detour available that involved road walking, but we managed just fine with our trekking poles to help.

At two miles we reached Martha Falls at Unicorn Creek.

Martha Falls

We crossed the creek and climbed another 1/2 mile to Stevens Canyon Road. The trail crosses the road (watch for cars) and continues climbing to Reflection Lakes.

Rotting bridges are not uncommon

Foggy Morning at Reflection Lake

The “trail” skirts the parking area and then follows along the shore of the lake before crossing back over Stevens Canyon Road and starting our final downhill, dropping 1,800 feet over three miles to the Nisqually River.

Crossing the Nisqually River

There were a lot of day hikers exploring along the Nisqually. We had to wait (patiently?) to cross as a family took multiple selfies on the bridge that stood between us and the end of the trail. Once we crossed, it was all smiles and a short walk to the Cougar Rock Picnic Area parking.

Our 13-day thru-hike of the Wonderland Trail was complete! We experienced a little bit of everything on this trail, and after changing into some clean clothes, we headed to the nearest town for a well-earned pizza.

Maple Creek to Cougar Rock Trail Map and Elevation Profile

Originally hiked on August 17, 2019 with Derek and Jason. Also note that Longmire is technically 1.5 miles further down the trail. We were thankful that we hiked that mileage on Day 1. 

Back to Day 12  |  Return to Wonderland Trail Overview

Day 11: Indian Bar

Distance: 10.6 miles
Time: 5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation +/-: 1,220’/3,805′

The Pacific Northwest said, “Not today.”

At about the five mile mark, we reached the junction with the trail to Olallie Creek Camp. Stay right and follow the trail down into the heavily forested canyon.

The forest grew darker as we descended lower.

Two miles further and we reached the Nickel Creek crossing. We were nearing an elevation of 3,000 feet, and the forest grew thicker and darker as we dropped through different zones.

Crossing Nickel Creek

At Box Canyon the trail on the west side of the bridge was closed for maintenance, so we crossed at the road and took the opportunity to use a civilized restroom, with a sink and everything! We hiked through the tunnel and reconnected with the trail down toward Stevens Canyon.

Once you reach Stevens Canyon, the trail begins to climb parallel to Stevens Creek. In just over a mile you reach a side trail to Maple Creek Camp. The campground is verdant green, thick with trees and undergrowth. We pitched our tents, replenished our water from the creek, and did a little exploring.

Maple Creek

We hoped to work our way to Maple Falls, but there was no tread to be found, the creek banks were overgrown and the creek itself had deep sections that would require wading, scrambling and frankly, more than we had energy for. We had one final hot meal on the trail.

Tomorrow would be our final day on the Wonderland Trail.

Indian Bar to Maple Creek Trail Map and Elevation Profile

Originally hiked on August 16, 2019 with Derek and Jason.

Back to Day 11  |  Continue to Day 13, Maple Creek to Longmire

Day 11: Indian Bar

Distance: 5 miles
Time: 3 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation +/-: 874’/2,002′

The climb was just over a mile and steep.

Sunrise at Summerland

This section of the trail is above the timberline and the scenery very different from most of the Wonderland Trail. There are creek crossings, snow fields, and aquamarine tarns that reminded me of the Sierra Nevada mountains.

We stopped at Panhandle Gap for a break, where the wind whipped at us, forcing us to head just downhill where we were partially sheltered.

Looking north from Panhandle Gap

Looking south from Panhandle Gap

From the gap, the trail does a bit of roller-coaster routine for the next two miles, finally reaching a ridgeline which begins the descent. The final 1.5 miles drops 1,600 feet, and you can actually pick out the Indian Bar shelter from far away.

Can you spot the shelter at Indian Bar beyond the ridge?

We had a warm, bluebird day and meadows filled with wildflowers as we descended into the canyon.

We had the group site in Indian Bar as well–the nicest shelter yet! This one actually had wooden platform bunk beds. The hike took us just over three hours, leaving us plenty of time to soak our feet in the cold water of the Ohanapecosh River.

Our next camp would at Maple Creek, and our final night on the Wonderland Trail. At this point, I admit I was starting to look forward to celebrating the completion with a pizza and beer.

Summerland to Indian Bar Trail Map and Elevation Profile

Originally hiked on August 15, 2019 with Derek and Jason.

Back to Day 10  |  Continue to Day 12, Indian Bar to Maple Creek

Day 10: Summerland

Distance: 10.8 miles
Time: 6 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation +/-: 2,326’/2,663′

The trail followed cairns to a log bridge crossing the White River that was looking a little dicey. Later in the day as the river level rises, this might not have been a safe option. The optional detour took you a mile down the road, but thankfully we were able to avoid that.

Once across the White River, the trail parallels the river down to the Frying Pan Creek Trailhead, roughly 6.25 miles in. We stopped for a break, and then started the climb.

The trail parallels Frying Pan Creek for about four miles, then crosses and begins a series of switchbacks up to Summerland.

Crossing Frying Pan Creek

Summerland is indeed stunning, and we were fortunate to have beautiful weather to enjoy it. Views, wildflowers, snowfields, babbling creeks–Summerland delivers on all counts.

Our water source at Summerland

We were also lucky to be assigned the group site here (it was designated on our permit). The group site is a three-sided stone shelter, which meant we didn’t need to pitch tents.

It also provided a great venue for an impromptu birthday bash for a fellow Wonderland Trail hiker from Las Vegas, Brian. A few other hikers that we had met along the way including Brad and his daughter and some nice ladies from Canada joined in and we shared a beer, some awesome homemade jerky and wished a fellow hiker happy birthday.

Sunrise to Summerland Trail Map and Elevation Profile

Originally hiked on August 14, 2019 with Derek and Jason.

Back to Day 9  |  Continue to Day 11, Summerland to Indian Bar

Day 9: Sunrise

Distance: 4.4 miles
Time: 2.5 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation +/-: 969’/839′

We began with an 800′ climb from Granite Creek, above the timberline to Skyscraper Pass.

Jason climbing up trail from Granite Creek

It was a little over one mile, and at the pass we began to run notice more hikers on the trail. Skyscraper Pass and nearby Skyscraper Mountain are popular destinations for day hikers heading out from Sunrise. The views were spectacular.

Looking back at Mount Rainier from Skyscraper Pass

Looking north from Skyscraper Pass.

From the pass, we headed down to Berkeley Park, then up over the saddle to our final descent to Sunrise.

We reached Sunrise early and once again, pretty much had our pick of the campsites. The sites here are closer together and feel less private, partly because there are so many day hikers wandering by.

Once we setup camp, we hiked an extra mile to the Sunrise Visitor Center to pickup our resupply packages and enjoy a meal that wasn’t rehydrated in a bag. We were also able to re-charge our devices at the visitor center and revel in our stinky backpacker mystique for the tourists. Next to the grill is a market that sells mostly souvenirs, but also some snacks, fuel canisters, sunscreen, and some food. At this point, we were growing a little weary of the lack of variety in our food bags, so it was really nice to supplement with a few different snacks.

We ate lunch, picked up our resupply package, chatted with some other folks who just complete the Wonderland Trail, and then had dinner, too before heading back to camp.

Shadow Lake near Sunrise Camp

Tomorrow would be our tenth day on the Wonderland Trail, and a return to more “normal” (i.e. not short) mileage as we hiked to Summerland, considered one of the most beautiful camps on the trail.

Granite Creek to Sunrise Trail Map and Elevation Profile

Note that this map does not show the hike from camp to the Sunrise Visitor Center (about a mile each way).

Originally hiked on August 13, 2019 with Derek and Jason.

Back to Day 8  |  Continue to Day 10, Sunrise to Summerland

Day 8: Granite Creek

Distance: 4.6 miles
Time: 2.5 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation +/-: 1,502’/999′

The hike from Mystic Camp to Granite Creek was short – a mere 4-1/2 miles – and took us all of two leisurely hours to complete.

We started with a descent of 1,000 feet to Winthrop Creek, and the views of Mount Rainier began to open up.

Jason and Derek preparing to cross Winthrop Creek

The lower section of the Winthrop Glacier looks less like the snow and ice we think of when you imagine a glacier, and more like dirt and rock. Beneath that talus there is ice, moving slowly down the mountain.

The dirty, rocky Winthrop Glacier can be seen through the trees.

After crossing Winthrop Creek, the second half of this day’s hike was all uphill and forested. We crossed Granite Creek on a log and the camp was on the right. The camp sites were spread out nicely, and arriving before lunch, we had our pick. We chose a roomy site closest to the creek, setup our camp and proceeded to laze about for the remainder of the day.

We read, took photos, and generally just enjoyed the sounds of the creek and the beautiful weather.

Photogenic Granite Creek

It was a day to just “be” in the wilderness–a great reminder to slow down and enjoy the peace once in a while.

Mystic to Granite Creek Trail Map and Elevation Profile

Originally hiked on August 12, 2019 with Derek and Jason.

Back to Day 7  |  Continue to Day 9, Granite Creek to Sunrise

Day 7: Mystic Lake

Distance: 4.0 miles
Time: 2 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation +/-: 1,521’/557′

There were no views during the hike as far as we could see, thanks to the fog. On a clear day, we should’ve had some glimpses of Carbon Glacier and Mount Rainier.

The campground is about another 1/4 mile beyond the lake, so we setup camp and hung our tents and wet clothes to dry out in the sun which was peeking out through the clouds. While our gear dried out, we hiked back up to Mystic Lake for a lazy lunch and a dip in the water.

Mineral Mountain on the far side of the lake and Mount Rainier beyond that.

The sun was warm. The water? Not so much. The cold water soothed and rejuvenated our muscles. Surprisingly, we had very few mosquitos.

After swimming around in the lake, we headed up the hill to the Mystic Lake Patrol Cabin, which is worth the side trip for the views of Mount Rainier.

Back at camp, we napped, read and generally lazed about. Almost a zero day.

Mystic Camp has seven campsites and one big group site with it’s own pit toilet. Water is available from a nearby creek.

Dick Creek to Mystic Lake Trail Map and Elevation Profile

Originally hiked on August 11, 2019 with Derek and Jason.

Back to Day 6  |  Continue to Day 8, Mystic to Granite Creek

Day 6: Dick Creek

Distance: 9.2 miles
Time: 6.75 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation +/-: 2,461’/3,221′

At 9.2 miles, this was going to be one of our longer days. It had rained overnight, and was still misty and damp when we started out in the morning. Leaving Eagle’s Roost, the trail begins with a climb that up switchbacks to the creek that feeds Spray Falls. The wildflowers and meadows grew more spectacular as we hiked through Spray Park, and the clouds parted a few times to give us a peek at the peak of Mount Rainier.

As we climbed above the timberline, the terrain became rocky. A few weeks earlier and we would’ve been trudging over snow fields. Now there were just a few short sections to cross. The trail here is marked with stone cairns and occasionally painted markers on rocks, including the 6,400 foot high point of the Spray Park Trail.

From that high point, we had a long, five-mile downhill stretch dropping over 3,000 feet to the Carbon River and our second suspension bridge on the Wonderland Trail. Once again, the Pacific Northwest weather obscured the views of the Carbon Glacier upstream, but the bridge itself is an impressive span.

We crossed one at a time, as instructed by the signs at either end of the bridge. We were back on the “official” Wonderland Trail and had a final climb to our camp at Dick Creek: one mile and 1,000 vertical feet.

By the time we arrived at Dick Creek, the fog had turned to a driving mist soaking our waterproof layers. There are only two campsites at Dick Creek, and the larger one was already occupied. We shoe-horned our three tents into the remaining site on the edge of the ledge that supposedly overlooked the Carbon Glacier. I say supposedly because the fog was so thick and soupy, we couldn’t see it.

Crowded camp on the ledge

Heavy mist turned to rain. Derek was having trouble staking his ultralight tent in the saturated ground. Cold and wet, it was a perfect time for Derek to pull out his trail treat: three beers. We toasted to our health, and after dinner enjoyed another new trail tradition, hot apple cider that Jason had brought. Our mood had reflected the weather, and the hot, sweet cider was a perfect pick-up.

Hunkered down in our tents for the night, the rain came, at times driving hard enough to wake me up. We dreamt of drier, sunnier days ahead.

Eagle’s Roost to Dick Creek Trail Map and Elevation Profile

Originally hiked on August 10, 2019 with Derek and Jason.

Back to Day 5  |  Continue to Day 7, Dick Creek to Mystic Lake

Day 5: Eagle's Roost

Distance: 8.5 miles
Time: 5.5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation +/-: 2,896’/604′

So we broke camp, and started climbing.

There were no views on the trail to Mowich Lake, just forest. But there was a lovely cascade in Carter Creek, fed from Mowich Lake further uphill.

Lovely cascade on Carter Creek

Not far past the creek crossing we reached a junction with the Spray Park Trail, making a mental note of this for later. Our camp for the night was Eagle’s Roost along the Spray Park Trail, but first we had to pick-up our resupply packages at Mowich Lake Ranger Station.

When you emerge from the forest, you encounter the road and a series of ugly campsites at Mowich Lake. It’s not a place I would choose to stay, but there were plenty of people who had. The resupply boxes are in front of the ranger station, which is roughly 0.1 miles along the southeast shore of the lake.

We got there, found our buckets and had a little lunchtime feast. The sky cleared enough to give us a bit of blue and warm sunlight.

There are trash receptacles at the Mowich Lake camp area, so we were able to empty our trash and donate our empty 5-gallon buckets.

Ready to hit the trail again, we headed back down to the junction with the Spray Park Trail, and followed it roughly 2.5 miles to Eagle’s Roost camp. This camp is set on a steep, forested hillside with peek-a-boo views of the mountains (when it’s clear).  We scoped out a decent site, setup our tents and headed out for a short side trip to Spray Falls.

Spray Falls is detour-worthy

The falls are fed from the creek running through Spray Park, which we would be hiking through tomorrow. It’s a big, beautiful waterfall, even on a cloudy afternoon, and definitely worth the short hike.

Back at camp, the clouds rolled in and brought that cold, damp air with them. We had occasional rain, but were buttoned up pretty neatly and were able to enjoy dinner without getting too wet.

Our camp at Eagle’s Roost. Photo: Derek Loranger

After dinner, the weather even gave us a glimpse of the view beyond the trees.

Day five was a satisfying day. We did a lot of climbing, successfully retrieved our resupply packages, had a great campsite and enjoyed a side-trip to Spray Falls. Tomorrow would be a longer day, with the high point on the Spray Park Trail and the Carbon River suspension bridge to look forward to.

South Mowich River to Eagle’s Roost Trail Map and Elevation Profile

Originally hiked on August 9, 2019 with Derek and Jason.

Back to Day 4  |  Continue to Day 6, Eagle’s Roost to Dick Creek

Day 4: South Mowich River

Distance: 7.2 miles
Time: 3.5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation +/-: 433’/2,705′

We broke camp and headed off into the fog.

The dampness of the day was reflected in the trail. The undergrowth is lush and green, and everything in a state of perpetual decay and regrowth. Except for the bridges. They were just decaying.

The trail itself on the west side of Mount Rainier is a pleasure to hike on. Lined with ferns, mushrooms and other plants, the tread is soft and padded by a cushion of pine needles.

The first two miles were gentile forest trail with little elevation gain or loss. And then began a steady downhill. We would drop 2,700 feet in the next 4.5 miles.

At the bottom of the canyon, we could hear South Mowich River before we could see it. The water is fast and the current strong enough to move bowling ball-sized stones downstream. We heard them rumble and crack as they tumbled downstream.

When you reach the river, the trail itself is ever changing, as the water winds its way through the scrabble and finds a new route. Stone cairns served a real purpose here, helping us find the “most likely” route across. We reached a point where there was no good log crossing, and we would have to wade through a couple sections.

We unbuckled our packs in case we fell in, and steadied our steps with our trekking poles, probing for hidden rocks that could turn an ankle or worse. We all made it across without incident, although I think it took most of the remainder of the trip for Derek’s camp shoes to dry out.

Not far beyond the river crossing was the sign for South Mowich Camp. We were first there, and claimed the shelter, giving us a chance to get out of the damp air and maybe even dry out some of our gear.

The camp is quite near the river, but you cannot use it for a water source due to the high silt content. If you try to filter it, it will quickly clog your filter. Instead, we had to hike a few hundred yards further north on the Wonderland Trail to a calmer creek that ran clear.

Tomorrow, our first resupply at Mowich Lake. 

Golden Lakes to South Mowich River Trail Map and Elevation Profile

Originally hiked on August 8, 2019 with Derek and Jason.

Back to Day 3  |  Continue to Day 5, South Mowich River to Eagle’s Roost

Day 3: Golden Lakes

Distance: 6.1 miles
Time: 3.75 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation +/-: 1,836’/624′

There were no views on the first few miles, just beautiful forest and mushrooms.

The Trail Provides

The well-known saying suggests that when you are feeling hot, tired, or down, there’s something around the corner to lift your spirits. On the Wonderland Trail, that something was often the stunning views. Today it was the discovery of wild blueberries. We found blueberries along the trail, bursting with juicy, tart flavor. We’d spy them as we hiked along the trail, pick a few and pop them into our mouths. They gave us a little boost each time we found them.

As we passed the four mile mark on GaiaGPS, the forest began thinning, opening up views of Mount Rainier.

Derek on the ascent to Golden Lakes

The sun was strong, and it was muggy. The sort of heat that saps your energy, and encourages you to take any rest breaks in the shade.

The final 1.5 miles was fairly flat, with a small descent to Golden Lakes. The first sign of the lakes was a rickety wood plan walkway to the old patrol cabin perched on the best spot overlooking the biggest and prettiest of the Golden Lakes. We dropped our packs here and explored the campsites.

We ended up scoring a campsite on the far side of the lake, on a hill with a view looking down the valley to the west. We setup camp, and wandered down to the lake. Jason was first to go in.

We swam out to the little island in the middle of Golden Lake.

We learned an important rule to remember on the Wonderland Trail. Whenever you get a chance to take a dip in a lake, take it.

The shallow water was warm and the lake bottom soft mud. As we swam out to the deep section, we would come across a section that was freezing cold. We made our way out to the tiny island in the middle of the lake, and found a balance between too cold and almost warm water.

Sunset from our Golden Lakes campsite. Photo: Jason Fitzpatrick

A pretty perfect day on the trail.

North Puyallup River to Golden Lakes Map and Elevation Profile

Originally hiked on August 7, 2019 with Derek and Jason.

Back to Day 2  |  Continue to Day 4, Golden Lakes to South Mowich River

Day 2: North Puyallup River

Distance: 16.7 miles
Time: 12 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation +/-: 3,927’/5,116′

As we were getting ready to break camp in the morning, a doe and two fawns wandered right through our camp, setting a great vibe for a tough day.

At about 1.5 miles you reach an area known as Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground, an area rich in history, fields of wildflowers and jaw-dropping views.

The patrol cabin at Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground was built in 1915.

From here, we began a 1,200 foot descent to the Tahoma Creek Suspension Bridge, one of two suspension bridges on the Wonderland Trail, spanning 150 feet and towering 200 feet above the churning grey water of Tahoma Creek.

Jason crossing the Tahoma Creek Suspension Bridge

It’s one person at a time across this span, which can get a little bouncy. The adrenaline rush from crossing the bridge gave us a boost for our next objective: Emerald Ridge. The ascent lasts about three miles, climbing 1,500 feet  to the ridgeline.

Climbing to Emerald Ridge – Photo: Derek Loranger

When we reached the ridge, we stopped for a break to take in the views of Mount Rainier.

Rainier from Emerald Ridge. The Tahoma Glacier on the left is covered with rock and dirt.

Is there any question why this was named Emerald Ridge?

From the ridge, the trail drops steeply down to South Puyallup River. Trekking poles came in handy, as sections of the trail had loose gravel looking for an opportunity to send you sliding. There’s a camp near the river, and though we had logged a lot of miles, we still had yet another ridge to climb.

At this point, in the day, it was heating up. Sitting in the shade would feel comfortable, but hiking exposed to the sun sapped our energy.

Views en route to St Andrews Park

The trail to St Andrews Park climbed 1,800 feet, and by the time we reached St Andrews Lake, we were grateful for a break.

St Andrews Lake

We were tired, and still had miles to cover. Thankfully, we were done with the climbing. We wandered down the trail to scenic Klapatche Park and wished we had our camp there.

Klapatche Park

From Klapatche Park we descended nearly 2,000 feet over two miles to North Puyallup River, our camp for the night.  The trail down to to North Puyallup was a grind. The group site is on the south side of the river, where the remains of a road are being reclaimed by the forest. On the north side are four campsites. They are not particularly beautiful, but we didn’t care. We setup camp, ate and crashed for the night.

That is, except for Jason. He got up in the wee hours of the morning and setup his tripod at the bridge over North Puyallup River to capture this nighttime photo of the waterfall.

North Puyallup Falls at night. Photo: Jason Fitzpatrick

Thankfully, our next day was going to be easier as we headed to Golden Lakes.

Devil’s Dream to North Puyallup River Map and Elevation Profile

Originally hiked on August 6, 2019 with Derek and Jason.

Back to Day 1  |  Continue to Day 3, North Puyallup River to Golden Lakes

This loop hike begins and ends at Paradise, on the side of iconic Mount Rainier. The 14,410′ peak is the tallest in the Cascade Range and the highest in the state of Washington. It is an active volcano. It is the most glaciated peak in the continental United States. Five major rivers get their start on this mountain. Climbing Mt Rainier is a multi-day trip requiring specialized mountaineering skills and equipment. Only about 50% of those who attempt to reach the summit are successful. But you can get a taste of this magnificent mountain with this moderate, 4.6 mile loop hike on the Skyline and Golden Gate trails that reaches the lower section of the Muir Snowfield – the route used by a vast majority of climbers attempting to summit Rainier.

Trail Details

Distance: 4.6 miles
Time: 3 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 1,570 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Mid-July to early October

Getting to the Skyline Trailhead

The Skyline Trail begins outside the Henry M Jackson Visitor Center in Paradise, within Mount Rainier National Park. Entrance to the park requires either an entry fee or an annual pass. Paradise itself has a lodge that is open during the summer months, and the road to Paradise may be closed in the winter due to snow. For all practical purposes, this guide assumes you are hiking during the summer months. Get turn-by-turn driving directions from Google Maps here.

Hiking the Skyline Trail

The area around Paradise gets plenty of visitors, so the trails closest to the lodge are paved. Signs will remind you to “stay on the trails” to protect the fragile environment. Most impressive are the first few steps, hewn in granite and engraved with the words of John Muir as he described Mount Rainier, writing “…the most luxuriant and the most extravagantly beautiful of all the alpine gardens I ever behold in all my mountain-top wanderings.”

From those first few steps, follow the paved path straight up, watching for signs to keep you on the Skyline Trail.

As you climb, you follow a rounded ridge with stunning views of the surrounding area.

As you leave the trees (and the paved trail) behind, the route becomes rocky, but well-built and easy to follow. Even here, the rangers have erected cables to keep hikers off the fragile alpine terrain.

On this particular day, clouds were swirling around us, sometimes giving us a glimpse of Rainier or a flash of blue.

The climb was cold and windy, a common experience on Rainier.

At 2 miles, you reach Panorama Point, renown for its panoramic views. On this day, the views were of the clouds that enveloped us, thick and heavy with moisture that made us grateful for our waterproof shells. There is actually a stone restroom available near Panorama Point, the only one on this trail outside of Paradise.

From Panorama Point, the Skyline Trail continues climbing another 300 vertical feet before heading east and eventually beginning a downhill trajectory.

At about 3.75 miles, you reach a junction with the Golden Gate Trail. Most people were continuing on the Skyline Trail. We opted for the less-busy route down Golden Gate, and were not disappointed. We counted at least half a dozen marmots on our way down. These marmots were larger with bushier fur coats than those I have seen in the Sierra Nevada.

As you descend the broad, rounded valley you soon see signs that you are nearing the Paradise Lodge again, as you run into families with young children not quite ready to wander far from the parking lot. Here, the beauty of the cascades and waterfalls are accessible to all.

When you reach the paved trails again, follow them back to the lodge and visitor center to close your loop.

Skyline to Golden Gate Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Skyline to Golden Gate Tips and Resources

• Plan Your Visit – Official Mount Rainier NPS website
• View the webcam to check conditions at the visitor center
• The road from Longmire to Paradise closes at night during the winter months, reopening each morning after snow plows clear the road (as weather permits). Paradise is the primary area in the park for winter snow activities, including snowshoeing, tubing and winter camping. That will be another post.

Mount Rainier National Park Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”98304″]

Originally hiked on September 10, 2018 with Joan.