Come to the woods, for here is rest. There is no repose like that of the green deep woods. Here grow the wallflower and the violet. The squirrel will come and sit upon your knee, the logcock will wake you in the morning. Sleep in forgetfulness of all ill. Of all the upness accessible to mortals, there is no upness comparable to the mountains.” – John Muir

Muir believed that regular doses of nature were essential to our health and well-being, a notion to which I wholeheartedly agree. During the week, I work hard. I need to reconnect with the world or I get a little cranky. And the best way to do that? Get outside and take a hike.

About this Photo

I shot this photo on a hike in Sugarloaf Ridge State Park in Sonoma County. This is a beautiful area with waterfalls, moss-covered trees and sweeping vistas. You can read all about our hike and see more photos here.

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About Muir Monday

John Muir had a way with words. I’ve taken those words and put them over photos I’ve taken. I’m sharing those photos each Monday — Muir Monday — and kindly ask that if you like this image, that you share it! Tweet it, post it on Facebook, Pin it… whatever social network you use, feel free to share. And thanks for helping me spread Muir’s words of wisdom.

Got a favorite Muir quote? Have a photo you’d like to share? Leave me a comment and let me know. I’m always looking for new gems from Muir, and photos that provide the right backdrop.

The world is big and I want to have a good look at it before it gets dark.” – John Muir

When I was young, like all the kids in my neighborhood, I played outdoors. As it started to get dark, our mothers would come to the door to call us in, and we’d reply “Just a little bit longer… please!? It’s not even dark yet!” We were experiencing the world through a rousing game of kick the can, tag or hide-and-seek. Couldn’t sleep wait a little longer?

As we grow up, we learn just how big and marvelous our world really is. Muir nailed it. It’s a big world, with a lot to see. Get out there and a good look at it before it gets dark.

About this Photo

This photo was taken in Kings Canyon National Park, just south of Muir Pass. We had setup camp at a small unnamed lake for the night and as the sun set, we were treated to this spectacular show of colors on the mountain tops.

About Muir Monday

John Muir had a way with words. I’ve taken those words and put them over photos I’ve taken. I’m sharing those photos each Monday — Muir Monday — and kindly ask that if you like this image, that you share it! Tweet it, post it on Facebook, Pin it… whatever social network you use, feel free to share. And thanks for helping me spread Muir’s words of wisdom.

How glorious a greeting the sun gives the mountains. – John Muir

Many serious photographers consider sunrise and sunset photographs to be cliché. Personally, I love them! And there is nothing that compares with seeing the sunrise from Mount Whitney.

About this Photo

Hiking up Mount Whitney — the tallest mountain in the contiguous 48 states — in the black of night is breathtaking (figuratively and literally). But the payoff makes it all worthwhile; sunrise from nearly 15,000 feet above sea level. The sky begins to turn light well before you even catch a glimpse of the sun. When it finally arrives, it’s a spectacle of color and light better than any firework display.

I took this photo through the “windows” less than a mile from the summit of Mt. Whitney on our JMT thru-hike.

What is your favorite peak for sunrise or sunset? Let me know in the comments below.

About Muir Monday

John Muir had a way with words. I’ve taken those words and put them over photos I’ve taken. I’m sharing those photos each Monday — Muir Monday — and kindly ask that if you like this image, that you share it! Tweet it, post it on Facebook, Pin it… whatever social network you use, feel free to share. And thanks for helping me spread Muir’s words of wisdom.

Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wilderness is a necessity.” – John Muir

Seems like whenever I ask a friend how they are doing, the reply inevitably includes “I’m so busy!” or “I’m slammed!” It seems that we are all busy, scurrying around working harder and harder these days. The wilderness becomes a refuge and an opportunity to unplug from the busy-ness that screams for our attention.

About this Photograph

This is Lake Edison, from the far western shore at Vermillion Valley Resort — or as most PCT and JMT thru-hikers know it, simply VVR. This is a popular resupply point on both of those trails, since it’s not a long hike off the official trail. During the summer, you will find an ever-changing community of hikers gathered around the table for dinner or breakfast, or around the campfire in the evening. On our JMT thru-hike, we had our zero day here (a day with zero milage, or a rest day). It was wonderful.

About Muir Monday

John Muir had a way with words. I’ve taken those words and put them over photos I’ve taken. I’m sharing those photos each Monday — Muir Monday — and kindly ask that if you like this image, that you share it! Tweet it, post it on Facebook, Pin it… whatever social network you use, feel free to share. And thanks for helping me spread Muir’s words of wisdom.

Keep close to Nature’s heart… and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods.” – John Muir

Want to reboot your life? Get outdoors. Climb a mountain. Backpack through the wilderness. It was good advice in Muir’s time over a hundred years ago, and it’s still good advice today.

About the Photo

I shot this photo of Tuolumne Meadow on our thru-hike of the John Muir Trail. Although the main road through Yosemite passes along the border of this beautiful meadow, it’s still easy to enjoy the open spaces and beauty of Nature.

About Muir Monday

John Muir had a way with words. I’ve taken those words and put them over photos I’ve taken. I’m sharing those photos each Monday — Muir Monday — and kindly ask that if you like this image, that you share it! Tweet it, post it on Facebook, Pin it… whatever social network you use, feel free to share. And thanks for helping me spread Muir’s words of wisdom.

One touch of nature makes the whole world kin.” – John Muir

There is something special about the experience we share in nature. This especially strikes me at places like this in Yosemite, as I realize that John Muir walked this trail. He saw a view that has remained largely unchanged. And he was moved in ways that I am moved more than one hundred years later.

When we reminisce with someone who has also been to Yosemite, the Grand Tetons, Zion or whatever location, we share a bond. Nature becomes the common denominator… the great equalizer.

About This Photo

I snapped this photograph on a day hike up to Vernal and Nevada Falls in Yosemite. I don’t know who the hikers in the photo are (if you know them, please share!), but I loved the way the sunlight was filtered by the trees, with mist from the falls in the background.

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About Muir Monday

I started sharing the wisdom of John Muir on back in June, posting new quotes on Instagram and Facebook with a photo I’ve taken that supports the message. Muir had a way with words, and the Muir Monday meme has proven popular. Beginning today, I’m trying out a new approach, sharing these inspirational words here on SoCal Hiker. Each Monday you’ll find a new quote to inspire you. Please spread the word, and share with your friends on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, Google+ or whatever networks you prefer.

In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks. – John Muir

How many times have you gone outdoors, and I mean really getting away from the grind, and been dumbstruck with the beauty of nature? Even after hiking for decades, I still am blown away by the scenery, the serenity, and the peace that I find in the wilderness.

About This Photo

I captured this photograph of Lyell Creek on our 2010 John Muir Trail thru-hike. We were hiking from Tuolumne Meadow to Upper Lyell Creek for the night. The water was so clear, the sky so blue, and the scenery so stunning that we had to remind ourselves to keep moving everyone once in a while. As it was, we stopped frequently to gawk at the beauty and appreciate the moment.

About Muir Monday

John Muir had a way with words. I’ve taken those words and put them over photos I’ve taken. I’m sharing those photos each Monday — Muir Monday — and kindly ask that if you like this image, that you share it! Tweet it, post it on Facebook, Pin it… whatever social network you use, feel free to share. And thanks for helping me spread Muir’s words of wisdom.

Between every two pines is a doorway to a new world.” – John Muir

When I go out hiking, it’s an opportunity to see the world anew. It’s that child-like wonder and sense of exploration, where around every corner a new experience awaits. John Muir captured that sense of awe and wonder perfectly in this week’s Muir Monday quote.

About This Photo

I shot this photo on the John Muir Trail. This wasn’t on one of my JMT thru-hikes, but on a weekend trip to Yosemite over Memorial Day weekend — their busiest weekend of the year. I hiked up to Nevada Falls via the John Muir Trail, and came across this idyllic scene not far from the top of of the falls.

What “new worlds” have you discovered on your outdoor adventures? Let me know in the comments below!

A Note About Muir Monday

I started sharing the wisdom of John Muir on back in June, posting new quotes on Instagram and Facebook with a photo I’ve taken that supports the message. Muir had a way with words, and the Muir Monday meme has proven popular. Beginning today, I’m trying out a new approach, sharing these inspirational words here on SoCal Hiker. Each Monday you’ll find a new quote to inspire you. Please spread the word, and share with your friends on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, Google+ or whatever networks you prefer.

The clearest way into the Universe is through a forest wilderness.” – John Muir

About the Photo

I took this photo as I was sprawled on my back, laying on a picnic bench in the backpacker’s campground in Yosemite Valley. I had picked up our permits to thru-hike the John Muir Trail, and was feeling a little pre-hike jitters. As I lay there, the tall trunks of majestic pine trees swayed gently in the wind. At ground level, they seemed immovable; solid and ancient. But as their branches brushed the sky, they swayed to and fro in the slightest breeze. As they reached toward the heavens, they seemed as fragile as blades of grass.

The effect was calming. These trees had been on this earth much longer than me, and the mountains much longer than the trees. The JMT seemed like A Really Big Hike, but in the grand scheme of things, it is just a walk in the woods. Or as Muir might say, a saunter.

A Note About Muir Monday

I started sharing the wisdom of John Muir on back in June, posting new quotes on Instagram and Facebook with a photo I’ve taken that supports the message. Muir had a way with words, and the Muir Monday meme has proven popular. Beginning today, I’m trying out a new approach, sharing these inspirational words here on SoCal Hiker. Each Monday you’ll find a new quote to inspire you. Please spread the word, and share with your friends on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, Google+ or whatever networks you prefer.

All the wild world is beautiful.” – John Muir

The wilderness has a beauty that cannot be replicated. It is forever changing; familiar, yet always new. Nowhere is that more evident than when the leaves begin to turn colors in the fall. The experience changes day by day and even hour by hour as the sunlight, the weather and the colors change.

About the Photo

Many people assume that fall color in Southern California is limited to a few sycamore trees turning brown and dropping their leaves, but they would be sorely mistaken. I shot this photo last weekend at the southernmost aspen grove in North America — which just so happens to be right here in Southern California, near Big Bear in the San Gorgonio Wilderness.

I loved the contrast between the thick, dark trunk of the towering pine and the slender aspen trees, just beginning to turn from green to gold. Yes, you can find fall color here in Southern California on the Aspen Grove Trail. I’ll be posting details on how you can get there tomorrow.

A Note About Muir Monday

I started sharing the wisdom of John Muir on back in June, posting new quotes on Instagram and Facebook with a photo I’ve taken that supports the message. Muir had a way with words, and the Muir Monday meme has proven popular. Beginning today, I’m trying out a new approach, sharing these inspirational words here on SoCal Hiker. Each Monday you’ll find a new quote to inspire you. Please spread the word, and share with your friends on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, Google+ or whatever networks you prefer.

Most people are on the world, not in it.” – John Muir

At 4am, the alarm jolts me out of a deep slumber. It takes a moment for me to realize that, yes, in fact it is time to wake up. I have a mountain to climb.

By 5am, I’ve got my coffee and am en route to the mountains.

We park the Xterra at the Angelus Oaks trailhead at 6am, put on our boots, do a final gear check, and begin the long ascent up San Bernardino Mountain. Today we’d be climbing 4,700 feet and logging nearly 17 miles.

When we get back in late that afternoon, our bodies ache, but we are alive! 

We are definitely in the world.  Are you in it? 

About the Photo

I shot this photo  in the early morning on the switchbacks above Angelus Oaks. Thanks to Emily for making this photo perfect.

A Note About Muir Monday

I started sharing the wisdom of John Muir on back in June, posting new quotes on Instagram and Facebook with a photo I’ve taken that supports the message. Muir had a way with words, and the Muir Monday meme has proven popular. Beginning today, I’m trying out a new approach, sharing these inspirational words here on SoCal Hiker. Each Monday you’ll find a new quote to inspire you. Please spread the word, and share with your friends on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, Google+ or whatever networks you prefer.

Come to the woods, for here is rest. There is no repose like that of the green deep woods. Here grow the wallflower and the violet. The squirrel will come and sit upon your knee, the logcock will wake you in the morning. Sleep in forgetfulness of all ill. Of all the upness accessible to mortals, there is no upness comparable to the mountains.” – John of the Mountains: The Unpublished Journals of John Muir, (1938), page 235.

About the Photo

Two years ago I spent three weeks in Paris. It’s a beautiful city, and the trip was made even more beautiful when my girlfriend said “yes” and we were engaged on the Seine River. One of the many sites we visited in the area was the palace at Versailles. It’s a sprawling, opulent palace on huge grounds. It’s also incredibly crowded. We walked through the palace, often shoulder-to-shoulder with tourists from every corner of the world. While it was interesting from a historical perspective, we breathed a sigh of relief to get outside and on the grounds.

Many of the gardens at Versailles are manicured and formal. There are fountains, a maze of paths and surprise sculptures. But our favorite spot was this green “cathedral” of trees. We had the entire forest to ourselves. It was quiet and serene. As Muir said, “there is no repose like that of the green deep woods.”

While we weren’t deep into the wilderness, the cool shade and the serenity of these tall, green trees gave us peace from the crowds.

Leave a comment and share your  story of green serenity in the woods.

A Note About Muir Monday

I started sharing the wisdom of John Muir on back in June, posting new quotes on Instagram and Facebook with a photo I’ve taken that supports the message. Muir had a way with words, and the Muir Monday meme has proven popular. Beginning today, I’m trying out a new approach, sharing these inspirational words here on SoCal Hiker. Each Monday you’ll find a new quote to inspire you. Please spread the word, and share with your friends on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, Google+ or whatever networks you prefer.

The view from San Jacinto is the most sublime spectacle to be found anywhere on this earth!” – John Muir

At 10, 834 feet, San Jacinto Peak is the highest in Riverside County and one of the tallest in Southern California. It’s one of SoCal Hiker’s Six-Pack of Peaks. There are several routes to the top, including the popular trail that starts at the top of the Palm Springs Aerial Tram, but my favorite is the rigorous Marion Mountain Trail that starts near Idyllwild.

I took this photo on my latest trek up San Jacinto via that very trail. The skies were clear blue. There were still patches of snow on the summit. And you could see for miles in every direction.

John Muir was right. The views are a sublime spectacle.

A Note about Muir Monday

I started sharing the wisdom of John Muir on back in June, posting new quotes on Instagram and Facebook with a photo I’ve taken that supports the message. Muir had a way with words, and the Muir Monday meme has proven popular. Beginning today, I’m trying out a new approach, sharing these inspirational words here on SoCal Hiker. Each Monday you’ll find a new quote to inspire you. Please spread the word, and share with your friends on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, Google+ or whatever networks you prefer.

“The power of imagination makes us infinite.” – John Muir

This week’s Muir Monday photo comes from a hiking friend, Robert Randall. Bob and I hiked Mt. Baldy together a few years ago, and more recently, Echo Mountain.

Bob captured this fantastic shot of the Milky Way looking southward over Middle Chain Lake in Yosemite National Park. He writes:

Six of us backpacked into Chain Lakes, located in the southernmost part of Yosemite. There are three lakes linked together by streams and ponds. It’s a beautiful, serene place and the fishing is good. We packed in on Friday and out on Monday.”

Check out more of Bob Randall’s excellent outdoor photography on Picasa.

A Note about Muir Monday

I started sharing the wisdom of John Muir on back in June, posting new quotes on Instagram and Facebook with a photo I’ve taken that supports the message. Muir had a way with words, and the Muir Monday meme has proven popular. Beginning today, I’m trying out a new approach, sharing these inspirational words here on SoCal Hiker. Each Monday you’ll find a new quote to inspire you. Please spread the word, and share with your friends on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, Google+ or whatever networks you prefer.

In the mountains of San Gabriel, overlooking the lowland vines and fruit groves, Mother Nature is most ruggedly, thornily savage.” – John Muir

The San Gabriel mountains are Los Angeles’ wilderness backyard. Within the San Gabriels are towering mountain peaks, covered in snow in the winter. There are dense pine forests shading steep, rugged trails. Especially in the spring, the streams come alive, bouncing over rocks and falls and lined by lush greenery and wildflowers. Southern Californian’s are fortunate to have this treasure so nearby. For many of us, we can be in the mountains in half an hour, or even less!

John Muir traveled these same mountains, and I’d like to imagine that the view he saw as he climbed Mt. San Antonio — popularly known as Mt. Baldy — looked much like it did on my hike up the summit. When I took this photo, we drove up to Manker Flats in a cloak of gray clouds and fog. But as we started hiking, we were soon rewarded with the blue skies you see here. The low-lying clouds in the valleys below, and a few puffs of clouds above just to keep the photo more interesting. Spectacular.

This Muir Monday quote comes from Chapter 11 from Steep Trails — a compilation of Muir’s writings. This chapter comes from a letter Muir wrote the first week of September in 1877. Here is Chapter 11 in it’s entirety.

The San Gabriel Mountains

In the mountains of San Gabriel, overlooking the lowland vines and fruit groves, Mother Nature is most ruggedly, thornily savage. Not even in the Sierra have I ever made the acquaintance of mountains more rigidly inaccessible. The slopes are exceptionally steep and insecure to the foot of the explorer, however great his strength or skill may be, but thorny chaparral constitutes their chief defense. With the exception of little park and garden spots not visible in comprehensive views, the entire surface is covered with it, from the highest peaks to the plain. It swoops into every hollow and swells over every ridge, gracefully complying with the varied topography, in shaggy, ungovernable exuberance, fairly dwarfing the utmost efforts of human culture out of sight and mind.

But in the very heart of this thorny wilderness, down in the dells, you may find gardens filled with the fairest flowers, that any child would love, and unapproachable linns lined with lilies and ferns, where the ousel builds its mossy hut and sings in chorus with the white falling water. Bears, also, and panthers, wolves, wildcats; wood rats, squirrels, foxes, snakes, and innumerable birds, all find grateful homes here, adding wildness to wildness in glorious profusion and variety.

Where the coast ranges and the Sierra Nevada come together we find a very complicated system of short ranges, the geology and topography of which is yet hidden, and many years of laborious study must be given for anything like a complete interpretation of them. The San Gabriel is one or more of these ranges, forty or fifty miles long, and half as broad, extending from the Cajon Pass on the east, to the Santa Monica and Santa Susanna ranges on the west. San Antonio, the dominating peak, rises towards the eastern extremity of the range to a height of about six thousand feet, forming a sure landmark throughout the valley and all the way down to the coast, without, however, possessing much striking individuality. The whole range, seen from the plain, with the hot sun beating upon its southern slopes, wears a terribly forbidding aspect. There is nothing of the grandeur of snow, or glaciers, or deep forests, to excite curiosity or adventure; no trace of gardens or waterfalls. From base to summit all seems gray, barren, silent — dead, bleached bones of mountains, overgrown with scrubby bushes, like gray moss. But all mountains are full of hidden beauty, and the next day after my arrival at Pasadena I supplied myself with bread and eagerly set out to give myself to their keeping.

On the first day of my excursion I went only as far as the mouth of Eaton Canyon, because the heat was oppressive, and a pair of new shoes were chafing my feet to such an extent that walking began to be painful. While looking for a camping ground among the boulder beds of the canyon, I came upon a strange, dark man of doubtful parentage. He kindly invited me to camp with him, and led me to his little hut. All my conjectures as to his nationality failed, and no wonder, since his father was Irish and mother Spanish, a mixture not often met even in California. He happened to be out of candles, so we sat in the dark while he gave me a sketch of his life, which was exceedingly picturesque. Then he showed me his plans for the future. He was going to settle among these canyon boulders, and make money, and marry a Spanish woman. People mine for irrigating water along the foothills as for gold. He is now driving a prospecting tunnel into a spur of the mountains back of his cabin. “My prospect is good,” he said, “and if I strike a strong flow, I shall soon be worth five or ten thousand dollars. That flat out there, ” he continued, referring to a small, irregular patch of gravelly detritus that had been sorted out and deposited by Eaton Creek during some flood season, “is large enough for a nice orange grove, and, after watering my own trees, I can sell water down the valley; and then the hillside back of the cabin will do for vines, and I can keep bees, for the white sage and black sage up the mountains is full of honey. You see, I’ve got a good thing.” All this prospective affluence in the sunken, boulder-choked flood-bed of Eaton Creek! Most home-seekers would as soon think of settling on the summit of San Antonio.

Half an hour’s easy rambling up the canyon brought me to the foot of “The Fall,” famous throughout the valley settlements as the finest yet discovered in the range. It is a charming little thing, with a voice sweet as a songbird’s, leaping some thirty-five or forty feet into a round, mirror pool. The cliff back of it and on both sides is completely covered with thick, furry mosses, and the white fall shines against the green like a silver instrument in a velvet case. Here come the Gabriel lads and lassies from the commonplace orange groves, to make love and gather ferns and dabble away their hot holidays in the cool pool. They are fortunate in finding so fresh a retreat so near their homes. It is the Yosemite of San Gabriel. The walls, though not of the true Yosemite type either in form or sculpture, rise to a height of nearly two thousand feet. Ferns are abundant on all the rocks within reach of the spray, and picturesque maples and sycamores spread a grateful shade over a rich profusion of wild flowers that grow among the boulders, from the edge of the pool a mile or more down the dell-like bottom of the valley, the whole forming a charming little poem of wildness — the vestibule of these shaggy mountain temples.

The foot of the fall is about a thousand feet above the level of the sea, and here climbing begins. I made my way out of the valley on the west side, followed the ridge that forms the western rim of the Eaton Basin to the summit of one of the principal peaks, thence crossed the middle of the basin, forcing a way over its many subordinate ridges, and out over the eastern rim, and from first to last during three days spent in this excursion, I had to contend with the richest, most self-possessed and uncompromising chaparral I have every enjoyed since first my mountaineering began.

For a hundred feet or so the ascent was practicable only by means of bosses of the club moss that clings to the rock. Above this the ridge is weathered away to a slender knife-edge for a distance of two or three hundred yards, and thence to the summit it is a bristly mane of chaparral. Here and there small openings occur, commanding grand views of the valley and beyond to the ocean. These are favorite outlooks and resting places for bears, wolves, and wildcats. In the densest places I came upon woodrat villages whose huts were from four to eight feet high, built in the same style of architecture as those of the muskrats.

The day was nearly done. I reached the summit and I had time to make only a hasty survey of the topography of the wild basin now outspread maplike beneath, and to drink in the rare loveliness of the sunlight before hastening down in search of water. Pushing through another mile of chaparral, I emerged into one of the most beautiful parklike groves of live oak I ever saw. The ground beneath was planted only with aspidiums and brier roses. At the foot of the grove I came to the dry channel of one of the tributary streams, but, following it down a short distance, I descried a few specimens of the scarlet mimulus; and I was assured that water was near. I found about a bucketful in a granite bowl, but it was full of leaves and beetles, making a sort of brown coffee that could be rendered available only by filtering it through sand and charcoal. This I resolved to do in case the night came on before I found better. Following the channel a mile farther down to its confluence with another, larger tributary, I found a lot of boulder pools, clear as crystal, and brimming full, linked together by little glistening currents just strong enough to sing. Flowers in full bloom adorned the banks, lilies ten feet high, and luxuriant ferns arching over one another in lavish abundance, while a noble old live oak spread its rugged boughs over all, forming one of the most perfect and most secluded of Nature’s gardens. Here I camped, making my bed on smooth cobblestones.

Next morning, pushing up the channel of a tributary that takes its rise on Mount San Antonio, I passed many lovely gardens watered by oozing currentlets, every one of which had lilies in them in the full pomp of bloom, and a rich growth of ferns, chiefly woodwardias and aspidiums and maidenhairs; but toward the base of the mountain the channel was dry, and the chaparral closed over from bank to bank, so that I was compelled to creep more than a mile on hands and knees.

In one spot I found an opening in the thorny sky where I could stand erect, and on the further side of the opening discovered a small pool. “Now, HERE,” I said, “I must be careful in creeping, for the birds of the neighborhood come here to drink, and the rattlesnakes come here to catch them.” I then began to cast my eye along the channel, perhaps instinctively feeling a snaky atmosphere, and finally discovered one rattler between my feet. But there was a bashful look in his eye, and a withdrawing, deprecating kink in his neck that showed plainly as words could tell that he would not strike, and only wished to be let alone. I therefore passed on, lifting my foot a little higher than usual, and left him to enjoy his life in this his own home.

My next camp was near the heart of the basin, at the head of a grand system of cascades from ten to two hundred feet high, one following the other in close succession and making a total descent of nearly seventeen hundred feet. The rocks above me leaned over in a threatening way and were full of seams, making the camp a very unsafe one during an earthquake.

Next day the chaparral, in ascending the eastern rim of the basin, was, if possible, denser and more stubbornly bayoneted than ever. I followed bear trails, where in some places I found tufts of their hair that had been pulled out in squeezing a way through; but there was much of a very interesting character that far overpaid all my pains. Most of the plants are identical with those of the Sierra, but there are quite a number of Mexican species. One coniferous tree was all I found. This is a spruce of a species new to me, Douglasii macrocarpa.

My last camp was down at the narrow, notched bottom of a dry channel, the only open way for the life in the neighborhood. I therefore lay between two fires, built to fence out snakes and wolves.

From the summit of the eastern rim I had a glorious view of the valley out to the ocean, which would require a whole book for its description. My bread gave out a day before reaching the settlements, but I felt all the fresher and clearer for the fast.

A Note about Muir Monday

I started sharing the wisdom of John Muir on back in June, posting new quotes on Instagram and Facebook with a photo I’ve taken that supports the message. Muir had a way with words, and the Muir Monday meme has proven popular. Beginning today, I’m trying out a new approach, sharing these inspirational words here on SoCal Hiker. Each Monday you’ll find a new quote to inspire you. Please spread the word, and share with your friends on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, Google+ or whatever networks you prefer.

Walk away quietly in any direction and taste the freedom of the mountaineer. Camp out among the grass and gentians of glacier meadows, in craggy garden nooks full of Nature’s darlings. Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves. As age comes on, one source of enjoyment after another is closed, but Nature’s sources never fail. … The petty discomforts that beset the awkward guest, the unskilled camper, are quickly forgotten, while all that is precious remains. Fears vanish as soon as one is fairly free in the wilderness.” – John Muir

Yesterday marked the 97th anniversary of the National Park Service, and so it’s only fitting to acknowledge John Muir’s tireless efforts to preserve our wilderness treasures. And although Muir died two years before its creation, he has been called the Father of the National Park Service.

Muir in fact hosted President Theodore Roosevelt on a three-day camping trip in Yosemite, touring from the giant sequoia trees in the Mariposa Grove to Glacier Point and of course Yosemite Valley itself. While the two didn’t see eye-to-eye on everything, Roosevelt agreed that spaces like Yosemite deserved protection.

What National Parks have you visited? Leave a comment below.

A Note about Muir Monday

I started sharing the wisdom of John Muir on back in June, posting new quotes on Instagram and Facebook with a photo I’ve taken that supports the message. Muir had a way with words, and the Muir Monday meme has proven popular. Beginning today, I’m trying out a new approach, sharing these inspirational words here on SoCal Hiker. Each Monday you’ll find a new quote to inspire you. Please spread the word, and share with your friends on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, Google+ or whatever networks you prefer.

“The sun shines not on us but in us.” – John Muir

I shot this photo on my first trip to the Anza Borrego Desert State Park. We camped near Dos Cabeza — a great home base for hiking, bouldering or just enjoying the sunrise.

I have always loved the mountains and the beach, but I was never really attracted to the desert. Spending time there has changed that. The peace, quiet and solitude is a given. What really surprised me was the variety of terrain, animal and plant life. We explored slot canyons and mud caves. We did some bouldering and hiking.

And we enjoyed early morning views like this.

A Note about Muir Monday

I started sharing the wisdom of John Muir on back in June, posting new quotes on Instagram and Facebook with a photo I’ve taken that supports the message. Muir had a way with words, and the Muir Monday meme has proven popular. Beginning today, I’m trying out a new approach, sharing these inspirational words here on SoCal Hiker. Each Monday you’ll find a new quote to inspire you. Please spread the word, and share with your friends on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, Google+ or whatever networks you prefer.

Day 22 on the John Muir Trail…

Technically, this day begins at the end of Day 21. We went to bed early last night, sleeping lightly for a few hours and waking to our alarm at 11:30 PM. We ate Clif Bars and packed up our sleeping gear and tent. Donning our headlamps, we made one final check to make sure nothing was left behind. We headed up the John Muir Trail towards the tallest peak in the contiguous 48 states — Mount Whitney — 14,505 feet above sea level.

John Muir Trail Day 22

Distance: 16 miles
Cumulative Distance: 222.23 miles
Total Ascent: 4,201 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 60,597 ft
Harrison Map Sheet 1

Our headlamps did a great job of illuminating our steps. As we climbed higher, we could see other headlamps down below, bobbing up and down as other hikers started out in the wee hours of the morning. Apparently we weren’t the only ones who thought to get a very early start on Whitney.

We hiked along, our heads down and our eyes on the trail for several hours. Our pace was slow, but steady. Suddenly, I practically walked into the Whitney Trail Crest junction sign!

We were shocked! The climb went by quickly. From here we thought we would wait for sunrise, then hike the last 2 miles to the summit in daylight.

We dropped our backpacks and pulled out our sleeping bags. It was cold up at the crest, especially since we had stopped hiking. We sat there and tried to sleep, but it wasn’t going to happen. Soon, we had hikers who were coming up from Whitney Portal marching past us in the darkness. We decided if they could handle the trail in the dark, we could too. Besides, we weren’t going to sleep.

So we packed our sleeping bags and left our backpacks near the junction. We took a fanny pack and water, slack-packing to the summit. And along the way there, the sun rose.

Turning around, I captured this view looking west toward the sun-kissed mountain tops.

The trail was treacherous, but we took our time to be safe. By the time we reached the shelter on the summit, we no longer needed our headlamps at all. We headed for the true summit, and greeted a few other hikers who arrived just before us.

Our thru-hike on the John Muir Trail was complete! We hiked the entire JMT, from Yosemite to Whitney. We were standing on the summit of the tallest peak in the contiguous 48 states. We learned new things about ourselves and each other, and expanded our understanding of what we were capable of.

Our mission was complete. But our journey was not yet over. We still had to hike 10.6 miles down to Whitney Portal, where we had parked our Xterra three weeks earlier.

Summit Register?

I have one regret about our summit of Mt. Whitney… we forgot to sign the summit register! We had seen the aluminum “desk” next to the shelter, but I didn’t realize that the top opened. And so we never signed the register. Doh!

In our original itinerary, we had planned to stop at Trail Camp below Mt. Whitney, but before Whitney Portal. This would leave an easy six mile hike out on the final day. But we had opted to shave some miles off previous days, so to stick to our original exit schedule, we were hiking all the way out to Whitney Portal.

First, we headed back to the Whitney Trail Crest. Our packs were waiting for us, undisturbed by other hikers. In fact, a number of other backpackers had also left their packs here, since you have to come back this way in any case.

We hoisted our packs one more time and began the descent.

As we hiked down, we passed what seemed like a hundred people hiking up to Whitney. There were some solo hikers but most were in groups of 2, 3 or 4. Most of them carried day packs rather than backpacks. We wound our way down the infamous 99 switchbacks, including an icy patch with a handrail for safety. There was no snow on the trail though.

Looking back, it was hard to believe that we were “up there” just a few hours earlier. Wow.

Descending from Mt Whitney with a full backpack was challenging, even though we weren’t carrying much food at this point. We descended 6,300 feet over those last ten miles. It took a toll on our bodies. Our feet were swollen and sore. Our joints creaked and ached. But the thought of a cheeseburger and beer at the Whitney Portal Store kept  us moving.

Finally we could see the Whitney Portal parking area. We must be close. We placed bets on how long it would be before we were there. “30 minutes!” I announced confidently. I was wrong by about an hour.

That last stretch winds down along the longest, slowest switchbacks ever designed. There were times when I swore we were actually moving further away from our destination. Like a desert mirage, it tantalized us with promises of greasy food and cheap calories, but we never seemed to get any closer.

Finally we saw a sign of “civilization.” Ironically, it was a sign declaring (to those hiking in the upward direction) that they were now entering the John Muir Wilderness. But for us, it meant we were getting closer to civilization.

We made it to Whitney Portal. We ate that cheeseburger, and drank that cold beer. And it was good.

Trail Map: Guitar Lake to Mt Whitney to Whitney Portal

The John Muir Trail official ends on the summit of Mount Whitney, but we still had to hike down to Whitney Portal where our car was parked. This map details the route up to the top of Whitney, as well as down to Whitney Portal.

JMT Day 22 Photo Gallery

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Our thru-hike on the John Muir Trail is complete, but the story is not finished. Watch for details on gear, food and what we will do differently next time.

Originally hiked August 17, 2010.

I only went out for a walk, and finally concluded to stay out till sundown, for going out, I found, was really going in.” – John Muir

Three years ago today was our 17th day on the John Muir Trail. Joan and I were hiking over Pinchot Pass and towards Woods Creek — famous for a gorgeous and unlikely suspension bridge. We had gotten into the rhythm of the life on the trail. And we had learned so much about ourselves along the way.

We knew that we were capable of doing things that some people only dream of. We knew that we had the inner strength to go further, longer and higher than we realized we could. And we knew that we shared a connection that was special.

Just like John Muir, we found that going out was indeed really going in.

A Note about Muir Monday

I started sharing the wisdom of John Muir on back in June, posting new quotes on Instagram and Facebook with a photo I’ve taken that supports the message. Muir had a way with words, and the Muir Monday meme has proven popular. Beginning today, I’m trying out a new approach, sharing these inspirational words here on SoCal Hiker. Each Monday you’ll find a new quote to inspire you. Please spread the word, and share with your friends on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, Google+ or whatever networks you prefer.

And if you’d like a square version for sharing, I’ve got you covered.

Day 13 on the John Muir Trail…

We slept not too far away from Muir Trail Ranch, with the headwaters of the San Joaquin providing our soundtrack for the night. Fortunately, our bear bag was unmolested. We broke camp and hiked about a quarter mile back to MTR to enjoy the promised breakfast (it was well worth it).

John Muir Trail Day 13

Distance: 10.8 miles
Cumulative Distance: 123.9 miles
Total Ascent: 4,036 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 33,471 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 7 and 6

Jeffrey and Hari took the purist approach, retracing our steps up the valley to the junction we left the JMT at yesterday. Joan and I opted for the easier trail along the valley bottom. Both trails met up at the 1.6 mile mark.

A bit further beyond that was the John Muir Trail Cabin. This wasn’t a cabin that Muir himself ever stayed in, but it was built in his honor.

Today we would hike into Kings Canyon National Park. This park easily rivals Yosemite in beauty, but is much more wild and unspoiled. We bid farewell to the John Muir Wilderness, and crossed this bridge into Kings Canyon.

The JMT follows along the South Fork of the San Joaquin River for over six miles, and the canyon becomes narrow, steep and rugged.

The trail winds through the canyon, climbing ever higher and crossing the fast-moving water on two more bridges. These bridges are amazing feats of engineering, especially given their remote location. And we were thankful they were there. The water ran high and fast, and I can’t imagine crossing any other way.

At mile 6.6, we crossed the third bridge for the day, and began the super steep switchbacks climbing up beside Evolution Creek. At the crest, you get a little breather and then, a boots-off creek crossing. This was thigh-high water, and while it doesn’t look treacherous, it is flowing fast and has a strong pull.

On the other side of Evolution Creek, we decided to stop for dinner. We fired up the stove and enjoyed some warm food, then cleaned up and hiked on to McClure Meadow.

Dinner: In Camp or on the Trail?

One of the questions thru-hikers grapple with is where to cook and eat. Because the John Muir Trail runs through bear country, it is recommended that you don’t cook or eat where you sleep, as the scents from the food will attract bears.

Some thru-hikers take this very seriously, stopping to cook and eat, then cleaning up, packing up and hiking the final one or two miles to camp, as we did tonight.

For us, we would typically cook, eat and clean well away from our sleeping area, but within eye’s view. We found it easier than stopping and starting again.

Jeffrey, Joan and I finished the final 2-1/2 miles and rolled into camp right at sundown. Hari had already set up camp with another JMT thru-hiker named Brian. We warmed up around a campfire sipping hot chocolate and sharing our tales from the trail.

Trail Map: Muir Trail Ranch to McClure Meadow

JMT Day 13 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we head over Muir Pass!

Originally hiked on August 8, 2010.

Day 12 on the John Muir Trail…

John Muir Trail Day 12

Distance: 8.45 miles
Cumulative Distance: 113.1 miles
Total Ascent: 1,292 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 29,435 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 8 and 7

Carrying that 20 lbs. won’t be the biggest challenge. Our bodies have grown accustomed to the rigors of the life on the trail. We’ve got our “trail legs.” The real challenge will be getting 10 days of food to fit inside the mandatory bear canisters.

Waking up in Rosemarie Meadow was a beautiful start to the day. The sun glistened on the lazy creek. Frost coated the grass.

We warmed up with scrambled eggs (powdered, and not half bad), spiced up with slices of a beef stick and some olive oil;  and our morning coffee (Starbucks Via).

We warmed up quickly as we began to climb Seldon Pass, in what would become our pattern for the days ahead — climb a pass, descend, camp. Rinse and repeat.

En route to the pass the JMT took us by the crystal-clear waters of Marie Lake. It never ceases to amaze me how clear and beautiful these lakes are. We could easily pick out the trout swimming in the water.

We regrouped at Seldon Pass, breaking for a snack (Clif Bar, anyone?) and snapping the requisite photos.

Just below the pass, we paused for yet another photo opportunity at Heart Lake. Yes, that is Joan and I standing in the “V” of the heart-shaped lake. The full view of the lake is at the top of this post.

Descending from Heart Lake, we followed the babbling water of Sallie Keyes Creek, which led to none other that the twin Sallie Keyes Lakes. These scenic lakes sit side by side, and the JMT travels right between them on a narrow band of forest. We stopped for lunch, but not for long — the mosquitos were also hungry.

Finally we began to descend the steep canyon walls through a series of switchbacks. At the 7.6 mile mark, we reached a junction that took us off the JMT and down towards Muir Trail Ranch.

At Muir Trail Ranch, we checked in and they started searching for our resupply packages. Due to the size, we had shipped three 5-gallon buckets. While we waited, we rummaged through the backpacker’s buckets — a set of buckets with “extra” stuff donated to anyone who needs it. We were like kids in a candy shop.

Bad News

They found one of the three buckets — with the supplies for Joan and I. But Hari and Jeffrey’s buckets were nowhere to be found. They double- and triple-checked the storage shed. Nothing in their inventory log, although they could see that we had paid for them. We waited for the tractor to delivery today’s shipment, but it wasn’t on there. We were getting worried.

The wonderful folks at MTR felt bad for this, and promised it had never happened before. They invited us to join them for dinner tonight and breakfast in the morning, and we were welcome to scrounge through the backpacker’s cache for anything we needed.

Joan took advantage of their offer to use the hot baths, and we enjoyed an amazing dinner alongside their regular guests. Jeffrey and Hari were able to pick through the extra supplies and piece together meals for the remainder of the trip.

Now the only challenge remaining was getting it all in our bear canisters.

We did not.

We ended up with some stuff that we threw into a bear bag and hung for the night. We chose the non-smelly, non-essentials, and hoped for the best.

Learning to Expect the Unexpected

We were  disappointed when our buckets didn’t turn up at MTR. Fortunately, there was more than enough food in the backpacker’s cache that we were able to do just fine.

With any big hike like the JMT, it’s important to remember that things will not go as planned. Something will go wrong, somewhere along the way. It’s important to keep a good attitude and be flexible.

Trail Map: Rosemarie Meadow to Muir Trail Ranch

JMT Day 12 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we head from Muir Trail Ranch to McClure Meadow.

Originally hiked on August 8, 2010.

Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wilderness is a necessity.” – John Muir

Ever had a week where you felt tired and nerve-shaken? Or is that the norm? Maybe you need to unplug. Get away. Go to the mountains. Sometimes we think that life has become a fast-paced frenzy, but Muir points out that this was a problem decades ago. His solution? Go to the mountains.

I shot this photo of Lake Edison exactly three years ago today, early in the morning. This was our tenth day of a 22-day thru-hike on the John Muir Trail, and we were taking a zero day (that’s a rest day in layman terms) at Vermilion Valley Resort. As the sun crested over the mountains to the east, wisps of fog swirled above the calm surface of the lake.

The scene was peaceful and serene, and reflected our feelings after a week and a half backpacking in the Sierras. Our nerves were no longer shaken. We were no longer “over-civilized.” I’m inclined to describe it as the ultimate reset button.

So go to the mountains. And discover for yourself the healing powers of the wilderness.

A Note about Muir Monday

I started sharing the wisdom of John Muir on back in June, posting new quotes on Instagram and Facebook with a photo I’ve taken that supports the message. Muir had a way with words, and the Muir Monday meme has proven popular. Beginning today, I’m trying out a new approach, sharing these inspirational words here on SoCal Hiker. Each Monday you’ll find a new quote to inspire you. Please spread the word, and share with your friends on Pinterest, Instagram, Facebook, Google+ or whatever networks you prefer.

And if you’d like a square version for sharing, I’ve got you covered.

Day 7 on the John Muir Trail…

John Muir Trail Day 7

Distance: 6.5 miles
Cumulative Distance: 70.3 miles
Total Ascent: 2,067 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 19,456 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 10 and 9

As we broke camp, we said goodbye to our new friend and gracious campsite host Chris Ryerson. He was on a 45-day walkabout in the High Sierras. No specific agenda or route, just hiking up and down and over and about from one mountain to the next. We were grateful that he offered to share his campsite with us, and we still keep in touch.

The first stop was about 1/2 a mile away: Red’s Meadow Resort. They have a small market and you can ship resupply packages to them. We ate breakfast at their Mulehouse Cafe, and then divvied up our resupply package.

Sometime that morning, I got in touch with a friend who lives in Mammoth Lakes, and was one of the members of my first JMT thru-hike back in 1980. As it turns out, his mom (who was also part of that 1980 thru-hike) and dad were in town, and they surprised us with a visit at Red’s Meadow.

We ended up spending all morning hanging out with Don and Zandra, reminiscing about our 1980 JMT thru-hike and catching up. Before we knew it, it was lunch time… so back to the cafe we went.

Get the Milkshake

When (not if) you stop at the Mulehouse Cafe in Red’s Meadow, you must order a milkshake. With whipped cream.

It may very well be the best milkshake you have ever tasted. 

After lunch, with full bellies and full packs, we were finally ready to hit the trail.

There are quite a few trails criss-crossing the Red’s Meadow area, and getting on the right one is important. We found the JMT and headed south.

Almost immediately, we emerged in a fire-scarred mountainside. The area is full of new growth, with new pine trees, lupen, and ferns everywhere. And not a bit of shade for quite a while. Being the middle of the day, the sun beat down on us as we climbed out of the valley.

We came upon a mountain spring that percolated into a creek right before our eyes.

After two miles, we finally exited the fire damaged area and entered the cool shade of the forest again.

Crossing Crater Creek at the 3.6 mile mark, we stopped for a break in the shade of the forest.

Lost on the JMT

At the Crater Creek crossing, we met another group of JMT thru-hikers that we had crossed paths with a couple times before. This family group had a teen who it seems ended up on the wrong trail, and they were trying to locate him. Their story has a happy ending. They found the teen (he had headed north instead of south) and were able to continue their journey.

The lesson? Two heads are better than one. If you’re hiking with a group, have a plan to stick together, or meet up at trail junctions. 

The last three miles were easy and scenic. Most of the time we were near either Crater Creek or Deer Creek. There were wildflowers, meadows, and gentle grades. We were all glad to have had an easy “half day” of hiking.

Devil’s Postpile, Red’s Meadow to Deer Creek

JMT Day 7 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we hike to Tully Hole.

Originally hiked on August 2, 2010.

Day Five on the John Muir Trail…

Yesterday’s hike up Lyell Canyon was relatively easy. Today, we would hit several big milestones. First, we would hike over our first serious pass. At 11,056 ft, Donohue Pass was still covered with snow, and the altitude was as high as we had been on the JMT so far. We would also pass the 50 mile mark. And we would bid adieu to Yosemite… and hello to the Ansel Adams Wilderness in Inyo National Forest.

John Muir Trail Day 5

Distance: 9.7 miles
Cumulative Distance: 50.5 miles
Total Ascent: 2,200 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 14,770 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 12 and 11

One of the great things about hiking the John Muir Trail is that you are never very far from a water source. There are only a few stretches where we really needed to carry more than a liter of water with us. If we needed more water, we would stop and filter more.

We crossed the bridge over Lyell Fork and headed out.

Some of the creek crossings were a little sketchy. You either hiked through the icy cold water, or carefully stepped one foot in front of the other, placing them on the slippery stones and doing your best not to fall in. We were glad we had our trekking poles. We made a point to always have three points of contact with the ground. 

At some of the lakes, there are feint trails that run around the perimeter. It’s easy to mistake these for “the” trail, but we knew we would be climbing and stuck to our uphill trajectory.

There were numerous rivulets that crossed the trail, as well as a wide range of wildflowers.

Soon we were high above the canyon, and ready to ascend the final incline to the pass. We stopped to look back on the canyon we just climbed out of.

We passed one last lake and started up a granite trail that was fully exposed. Well above the tree line, we were nearing the crest of Donohue Pass.

We reached the pass and took an early (and well deserved lunch break). Our trail mascot Yoda was proud.

From Donohue Pass, we split in two groups. Joan and I hiked on to our camp for the night at Thousand Island Lake. Jeffrey and Hari decided to tackle rocky Donohue Peak. There is no trail up Donohue Peak; it’s mainly boulder scrambling (no technical climbing required). Even so, it’s a slog up and back down. They were rewarded for their efforts with some amazing views.

From Donohue Pass, there is a long downhill trudge. The sun was warm and our spirits were high. And we still had about six miles to go. The scenery changed as we once again descended below the tree line and crossed Rush Creek.

Watch the trail signs carefully. Several trails converge in this area, and you don’t want to take the wrong trail. From the creek, we climbed towards Island Pass. This pass is easy to miss, because it’s really a wide, broad saddle dotted with little ponds. The distinctive feature? Jaw-dropping views of the majestic Minarets, their jagged peaks rising dramatically above you to the west.

Finally, we came into view of Thousand Island Lake.

This is a huge lake. No, it doesn’t really have a thousand islands. Yes, it does have a LOT of islands–more than I care to count. And it sits directly below the spectacular Banner Peak.

The trail winds down to the outlet of Thousand Island Lake. There is no camping around the outlet, so we had to follow the northern shore for about half a mile before we found a suitable campsite. We settled in, refilled our water bottles and pitched our tent. Jeffrey and Hari strolled in just in time for dinner — tired but proud to have bagged Donohue Peak.

Repelling Mosquitos: A Natural Approach

The mosquitos were pretty bad at Thousand Island Lake. I chose not to use repellent. My approach? Long pants and long sleeves. When I needed, I wore a mosquito net over my head. Once at camp, I could get into my tent until sundown. Most of the mosquitos disappear when the sun sets and the temperature dips, so I could cook and eat my dinner in peace.

Thousand Island Lake is one of my favorite places. It’s beauty always inspires me. And it’s a popular destination that many people hike to out of Mammoth Lakes. For these reasons, it’s crowded and attracts bears. We were all using bear canisters and didn’t have any problems, but we did hear some noise from other campsites that had to chase off bears.

The map below shows the general route we took, and the gallery below includes additional photos in chronological order.

Upper Lyell Canyon to Donohue Pass, Island Pass and Thousand Island Lake

JMT Day 5 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we hike to Red’s Meadow.

Originally hiked on July 31, 2010.

Day Four on the John Muir Trail

I was looking forward to this day. The mileage was a little easier, and the first nine miles were up the almost imperceptible incline of Lyell Canyon. Getting in later than expected on Day Three meant hanging around until the Tuolumne Meadows Post Office opened so we could pick up our resupply package.

While we waited, we feasted on tasty breakfast burritos at the café. The post office doesn’t open until 9am, and then we had to divvy up the foodstuffs, squeeze everything into our bear canisters and reload our packs. As we were repacking, we met some fellow JMT thru-hikers also picking up their resupply. I’ve found that camaraderie amongst backcountry hikers is effortless.  As John Muir said, “One touch of Nature makes the whole world kin.” You feel that kinship among just about everyone you meet on the trail. I think Muir was on to something.

John Muir Trail Day 4

Distance: 10.25 miles
Cumulative Distance: 40.75 miles
Total Ascent: 1,475 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 12,570 ft
Harrison Map Sheet 12
GPX file

The trail up Lyell Canyon was heavenly. Well, the first nine miles or so.

First off, the trail is soft, smooth and straight. It’s as close to level as you’ll see on the JMT. And it parallels the sublime waters of the Lyell Fork creek. The waters of Lyell Fork were so clear and so stunning, it was difficult to keep out of the water. So we jumped in! 

At our lunch break, Joan and I (Jeffrey and Hari were up ahead, as routine) found a secluded boulder outcrop next to a wide, deep section of the creek. We kicked our boots off and stretched out on the boulders like lizards in the sun. When it got a little too warm, we jumped into the invigorating water, washing away the trail grime and sweat. It was heaven on earth.

We lazily lounged about for two hours, enjoying the perfect setting, and then decided we’d better hit the trail again if we were going to make camp before nightfall.

Enjoying the Journey

We found that by the end of the day, we were so exhausted, that after cleaning up from dinner, we just wanted to climb into our tent to sleep. I loved our long lunches when we lounged, soaked our tired feet in the water, and took some time to enjoy the moment.

Our elevation gain for the day was modest by JMT standards (about 1,475 ft). But most of it was in the last mile. The trail is made up of granite steps better suited to horses than humans. This makes sense because both the JMT and the PCT were designed specifically to support horses, explaining in part the giant-sized steps we climbed to our camp for the night.

We made camp at Upper Lyell Canyon, just before the wooden bridge. There are a number of great camp sites here, and they are spread out far enough that although we had seen other hikers there, we weren’t aware of their presence when we were at our camp site.

Lyell Fork runs rapid here, so filtering water required extra caution. We didn’t want to fall in or lose any equipment.

And at an elevation of 9,670 ft, we were nearing the tree line. Tomorrow we’d be heading over snow-covered Donohue Pass and saying good-bye to Yosemite.

Tuolumne Meadows to Upper Lyell Canyon

This map details our journey on Day 4 of the JMT, from Tuolumne Meadows to Upper Lyell Canyon. You’ll notice that the trail follows a nice, gentle slope for the first nine miles, then ends with a strenuous climb. Phew!

JMT Day 4 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we hike over Donohue and Island Pass and down to Thousand Island Lake. 

Originally hiked on July 30, 2010. 

Day 3 on the John Muir Trail and we were starting a long way from where we originally planned to camp. Our unauthorized off-trail camp dubbed The Middle of Somewhere was beautiful and quiet, but we had 3.5 miles to hike just to get to Sunrise High Sierra Camp, where we should’ve been starting. If you do the math, that means that yesterday’s little excursion to Clouds Rest turned today’s easy 8.6 mile trek into a more rigorous 12.1 miles.

John Muir Trail Day 3

Distance: 12.1 miles
Cumulative Distance: 30.5 miles
Total Ascent: 2,124 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 11,095 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 13 and 12
GPX file

The water on Sunrise Lakes was still, reflecting like a mirror.  We hiked quietly, passing only a few other backpackers, and felt as though we had the mountains to ourselves.

From Sunrise Lakes, we pass over a saddle and down to Sunrise High Sierra Camp. Finally we were back on the JMT. We stopped for lunch but didn’t linger — the mosquitos were as hungry as we were.

From here the trail winds along the perimeter of the meadow, slowly and steadily climbing towards Cathedral Pass — the first of many mountain passes on the JMT. From the pass it’s a well-shaded, downhill trek to the Tuolumne Meadows.

When we reached Tuolumne Meadows, it was tempting to think we had “arrived.” We caught glimpses of Tioga Road through the trees and could hear passing cars. There were more casual hikers in the area, but we still had a full mile yet to go before we would reach the backpacker’s campground. It was one of those times when a mile seems longer than it really is.

Hari and Jeffrey were already there and had staked out a spot for us. Unfortunately the Tuolumne Post Office had closed about 15 minutes earlier, so we would have to wait to pick-up our resupply package until the morning. Fortunately, the diner was open. We feasted on cheeseburgers and fries. We earned it.

Three days on the John Muir Trail were under our belts. We summited Half Dome and Clouds Rest. And we made it to our first resupply point — Tuolumne Meadows.

Resupply at Tuolumne

You might wonder why you would bother resupplying at Tuolumne — a mere three days into a three week trek on the JMT. Consider this: you will carry on average two pounds of food, per person, per day. The next resupply point is Reds Meadow — three days further. Skipping this resupply point would mean carrying an extra six pounds. The math says, resupply at Tuolumne.

Middle of Somewhere to Tuolumne Meadows

This map details our journey from our off trail camp to Sunrise High Sierra Camp, over Cathedral Pass and down to Tuolumne Meadows.

JMT Day 3 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we head up Lyell Canyon.

Originally hiked on July 29, 2010. 

This day, three years ago…

We woke up early and at 6am, were the first customers at the Alabama Hills Cafe. There’s something great about guilt-free eating, knowing that you’ll be running a caloric deficit for three weeks and, why yes you can have the pancakes and an omelet. What the heck! We gorged ourselves to the point of feeling ill, then wobbled back across to the Dow Villa, grabbed our backpacks, and waited for our shuttle.

One of the logistic challenges with hiking the John Muir Trail is transportation. If you’re lucky, you might be able to coordinate with friends who want to spend a day or two in Yosemite to see you off. Even then, you’ll need room for your crew, your stuff, and all of their gear as well.

Or you can take two vehicles, dropping one off at the end (Whitney Portal in our case) and then carpooling up to Yosemite. The problem with this is that when you finish the JMT, you’ll have to drive all the way back up to Yosemite to retrieve the other car.

200 miles from Lone Pine to Yosemite Valley

Public transportation is an option, but this too, is challenging. You’ll save money, but need more time to make your way, as you switch from bus to shuttle and so forth. If you have more time than money, it’s probably the best option.

In our case, we had scheduled just enough time to drive up to Lone Pine on one day, drive to Yosemite the next day, hike the JMT and then drive directly home.  That meant hiring a driver to shuttle us from Lone Pine to Yosemite Valley. We booked Mt. Whitney Shuttle, and the fare for all four of us ran a whopping $595 bucks! Split four ways, it worked out to roughly $150 apiece. Gulp!

Our driver — Richard — was awesome. He was waiting for us right at the scheduled time — 7am, and kept us entertained with his stories on the way up. When we reached Tioga Pass Road, we made a stop at The Mobil and then joined the throngs snaking our way up and over Tioga Pass.

Before dropping down into the valley, we stopped at Olmstead Point and took in the views. There were some tourists who had setup telescopes pointed at Half Dome, and you could make out the hikers clambering up the cables to the top — something we hoped to be doing this time tomorrow!

The Weigh-In

Jeffrey’s back-breaking “winner”

Richard drove us down into the Yosemite Valley and dropped us off at the Ranger Station. We picked up our permit (you get an email confirmation, but still have to show up in person to claim your actual permit). They grilled us about our plans and whether we had bear canisters (we did). Permit in hand, we took turns weighing our packs on the scale out front.

The results?

• Hari: 33 lbs
• Joan: 35 lbs
• Jeff: 45 lbs
• Jeffrey: 69 lbs — The Winner!?

Clearly Jeffrey was either an animal or slightly demented. Time would tell.

Backpacker’s Campground

We headed to the backpacker’s campground. This is a small campground where hikers with backcountry permits may spend one night (since you typically have to pick up your permit the day before you start). It’s pretty close to a car camping area, but you take a beautiful bridge over a stream where there are no cars, and it’s a little more quiet. We stowed our food and smelly items in the bear locker, setup our tents and relaxed a bit.

As I laid on my back, looking up a the clear blue skies, I watched and listened as the towering pines swayed in the breeze, dancing to the rhythm of nature.

For our last dinner before the trail, Joan and I ambled over to Curry Village for a cold, hops-based beverage, crowds and pizza. This place is insanely crowded in the summer, but it’s an awesome place to people-watch. Joan got lucky, and nabbed a couple seats at the bar while I waited in line for pizza.

We made it back to the backpacker’s campground in the dark, and were surprisingly tired. Maybe it was the anticipation of what was to come, but we went to sleep pretty early.

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Tomorrow morning, we  start hiking the John Muir Trail! 

Originally hiked on July 26, 2010. 

Precisely three years ago this day, my girlfriend and I and two hiking friends were driving up to Lone Pine, getting ready for a 22-day thru-hike of the epic 211-mile John Muir Trail. Over the next three weeks, I’ll be sharing a day-by-day guide to our JMT backpacking trek, with each day covered exactly on the three year anniversary of the actual hike. Each daily post will break down the route we hiked — with an interactive trail map; where we camped, what we ate and the stories that went with it.

Some of you are already planning your own JMT trip. For you, these day-by-day trail guides will give you a good sense of what to expect. You’ll learn what worked well, and what we will do differently the next time.

Some of you are day hikers and weekend backpackers, thinking about tackling a bigger goal. For you, I’ve got good news. The John Muir Trail is indeed an epic backpack trip, but it’s within the reach of mere mortals. While it’s not a trek to hike on a whim, if you are a fit hiker, you can do this. In your case, I hope these day-by-day posts give you the added push to seriously consider hiking part (or all) of the JMT.

A few of you are armchair adventurers, with no aspiration to spend three weeks in one of the most beautiful sections of the Sierra mountains, challenging your body and spirit and finding new confidence and strength. I hope you’ll follow along just the same, and find the stories that go with each daily post entertaining and engaging.

The Cast

Our motley crew included my then-girlfriend (and now my wife), Joan; San Diego resident Jeffrey, a recent hiking friend who discovered my desire to hike the JMT and connected to us via SoCalHiker; and a late-addition: Hari who just finished his degree at USC and was getting ready for grad school. Joan and I were in our late 40’s. Jeffrey and Hari were both in their 20’s. All of us had done plenty of hiking, but I was the only one who had hiked this far before.

The Story Begins

First leg — Driving 270 miles from San Clemente to Lone Pine.

We started our day in San Clemente. Jeffrey was dropped off at our home, and we piled into the Xterra and headed up to Los Angeles to pick up Hari. From there, we weaved through traffic, out of the city and headed north to Lone Pine.

The JMT extends from Yosemite Valley to the summit of Mt. Whitney — the highest peak in the contiguous 48 states. You can hike it northbound  — or NOBO — but must hikers choose the south-bound (SOBO) route because you start at a lower altitude and work your way up. We were going to follow the traditional SOBO route, but were starting off by dropping off our car at the Whitney Portal.

The Dow Villa Motel

When we arrived at Lone Pine, we checked in at the Dow Villa Motel (map). While the rest of the group got dinner, I drove up to the Whitney Portal and parked. Parking here is free, but you need to check to make sure you’re parked in the right place. And you must make sure to clean your car of anything smelly or anything that looks remotely like food (or a food container). That includes coolers, empty food wrappers or cups, and even deodorant and toothpaste. This keeps bears from trying to pry open your car, and helps you avoid a costly ticket from the ranger.

Once I parked, I hitched a ride back down to Lone Pine with a couple guys who had just hiked down from Mt. Whitney.

We slept well that night, knowing that we had an early start in the morning with a shuttle to Yosemite, picking up our permit and getting one day closer to our JMT adventure.

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Next up: Day Two – Lone Pine to Yosemite Valley

Original date of travel July 25, 2010.

I’ve thru-hiked the JMT twice. The first time was in 1980. I was young and fit, and loved every mile. It was the experience of a lifetime. Three decades later — almost to the day — I hiked the JMT once again. I was older, wiser, and while no longer the strapping lad I once was, I still completed the trail three days faster. Another experience of a lifetime.

Sharing the JMT experience is a challenge. When you return from the mountain, you want to share this experience, but words alone cannot express the grandeur. Photos can delight, but they don’t capture the majesty of the soaring crags or the ache in your bones after descending from Silver Pass. How do you share the magnificence of sunrise over Thousand Island Lake? How do you convey the real and perceived highs and lows as you climb over Forester Pass? How can you describe the physical and mental challenges, and the sheer triumphant joy of hiking the John Muir Trail? This is the challenge a team of creative artists took on.

The Muir Project

In October of 2011, I learned about The Muir Project — a group of multi-media artists who undertook their own epic journey on the John Muir Trail. They hiked the JMT that summer — one year after my most recent trip, and had just released the initial trailer. The trailer was amazing, and really brought the memories of my own JMT hikes alive.

Rick, Jen, Jason and the rest of the team took the project to Kickstarter to raise the funding they needed to complete their labor of love. Fellow hikers, already inspired by the trailer, jumped on board and helped them exceed their goal by over $7k, giving them the resources they needed to convert hundreds of hours of video, thousands of photos, music, paintings and memories into something that might actually inspire people to consider hiking the John Muir Trail themselves.

Nearly two years later, the film is finally making its premier at the Hollywood Chinese Theater as part of the Dances with Films independent film festival. And on National Trails Day, no less.

Mile…Mile and a Half

The MMAAH team began their JMT trek in July 2011–a year notable for a 200% snowpack. What does this mean? Twice as much snow as usual. Higher water crossings. A challenging trail, made even more challenging. Which at least in part, led to the film’s name. As in, “How much further ’til we reach camp today?” “Oh, about a mile…mile and a half.”

The film follows the team on their southbound hike, from Yosemite Valley, up and over 10 passes, over 80,000 feet of elevation change, resupply points, meeting friends — both old and new — on the trail, and ultimately reaching the highest point in the contiguous United States — 14,505 feet tall Mt. Whitney.

“People are amazing. That was the biggest impression this experience left on me.” – Hiroshi, a Japanese solo hiker who joined the team for the trek up Mt. Whitney

After both of my JMT hikes, I had a sense of sharing this experience with those who hiked these trails before me, and those who will hike them after. I longed to share the experience.  Mile…Mile and a Half gives you a very real sense of what it’s like to hike the John Muir Trail. The film expresses the beauty, the challenge, and the joy of this beautiful trail better than anything short of hiking it yourself.

Mile…Mile and a Half is beautifully filmed, scored and edited. It features fantastic titles illustrated by trail journal extraordinaire Kolby “Condor” Kirk. MMAAH is not a dramatization. It’s the real deal–real people doing something amazing, and sharing the journey.  As their story unfolds, you feel like you’re there with them. It grips you, and inspires you.

“You don’t need to go to the Himalayas. You don’t need to climb Mt. Everest or go to the deepest jungles of Africa to find adventure. You can find it in your own backyard.” – Jason Fitzpatrick

You can probably tell, I love this film. I REALLY LOVE this film. Should you see it? Hell yeah! Mile…Mile and a Half is for anyone who loves the outdoors and the beauty of the mountains. It might even inspire you to lace up your boots and hike the JMT as well.

#JMT2015 anyone?

Kudos to Ric, Jason, Jen, Durand and the entire team who made this kick-ass film. Find out how you can see this amazing film at  TheMuirProject.com, and follow their latest on Facebook.

Mile…Mile and a Half
Running Time: 87 minutes
Premiere: June 1, 2013