The Oregon Coast is rugged, beautiful and often uncrowded. This bluff-top out-and-back hike starts and ends in Sunset Bay State Park and follows a section of the Oregon Coast Trail south to the Simpson Reef Overlook. Along the way there are opportunities for short side trips down to hidden coves and beaches, as well as the manicured gardens at Shore Acres State Park. It is a great taste of the Oregon coast, with a side helping of history.

Trail Details

Distance: 8.75 miles
Time: 3-4 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 786 ft
Dogs: Yes, on leash
When to go: Year-round

Getting to the Trailhead

We were car camping at Sunset Bay State Park, and started our hike right from the campground. If you’re driving to the trailhead, you can park in the lot near the grassy area at the south end of the beach. The trailhead is about 13 miles from Coos Bay and takes about 25 minutes to drive.

From Coos Bay, head north on 101, then turn left on Newmark St (OR 540). As you approach the waterfront, Newmark turns left on Empire (still OR 540). You’ll stay on this (it becomes the Cape Arrago Highway) for almost eight miles, traveling through Barview, across the bridge and through Charleston and eventually reaching Sunset Bay State Park. Get turn-by-turn directions via Google Maps.

Hiking from Sunset Bay to Simpson Reef Overlook

This trail generally follows along the coast along the bluff, sometimes ducking into the forest. Look for the trailhead at the south end of the park. It starts by climbing up the bluff. As with much of the Oregon Coast, it can be frequently wet and slick depending on the weather. It’s definitely lush and green. We spied blackberries, deer fern and wintergreen along the trail.

Just before the two mile mark, we reached a spur trail that headed down to a cove. At low tide, it was a great area for exploring. The fog cloaked the beach in mystery.

Climbing back to the main trail, we continue south. Another 1/2 mile and we veered right at the trail junction, heading to the bluff-top trail through Shore Acres State Park.

Shore Acres State Park was at one time the estate of a timber magnate, and some of the original buildings and the arboretum are still maintained. Dogs are not allowed in the park, except when passing through on the Oregon Coast Trail on leash. The extensive botanical gardens are not covered in this guide, but are definitely worth a visit while you are in the area.

Once you’ve passed the walled gardens, you soon reach the lovely Simpson Beach. While most of the coast is rocky with tide pools, this sandy beach is relatively well-protected and surprisingly quiet. We were the only ones there, probably because it’s a hike to get here.

Continuing south on the trail, you wander the coastal bluff until finally converging with the road at Simpson Reef Overlook. It’s very likely you’ll see other people who drove to this point to walk around and look.

The reef itself extends into the Pacific Ocean quite far, and is teeming with seals, sea lions and other wildlife. Binoculars or a telephoto lens would be helpful here, though you can hear their barking from a distance.

This was our turnaround point. After reading about the reef and ogling the wildlife, we turned around and started back on the trail. There are some options in the network of trails along the coast, and we opted to stick closer to the road for a more direct route back to the trailhead and eventually camp.

The trail back was still beautiful, and we encountered artifacts from the days when Shore Acres was an estate — like the gate posts to one of the old entrances.

John Muir was said to despise the word “hiking” as it sounded all too serious and driven. He much preferred the term “sauntering.” Though we logged nearly nine miles on this trail, it was more of a saunter than a hike, best enjoyed at a leisurely pace with plenty of exploration and just enjoying the scenery of this beautiful coast.

Simpson Reef Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Additional Resources

• Sunset Bay State Park – official website
• Shore Acres State Park – official website
• No water is available on the trail. Be prepared to carry what you need.
• Bring shoes that will give you some traction in slick wet sections of the trail, and a rain jacket just-in-case.
• The trail is not always well signed, but the area is well defined. With the coast on one side and the road on the other.
• We did not have cell service for most of the hike.

Originally hiked July 29, 2021 with Joan and our two labradoodles, Lucy and Farley.

Maiden Peak sits on the Cascade crest, straddling the Willamette and Deschutes National Forests. Many people hike up Maiden Peak from the Gold Lake trailhead on the west side, but the Maiden Lake Trail offers an alternative that starts in the east, passing through a variety of forested habitats and meadows with an optional side trip to serene Maiden Lake.

Trail Details

Summit Elevation: 7,805′
Distance: 10.0 miles
Time: 5-6 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 3,000 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: July-October

Getting to the Maiden Lake Trailhead

From the center of Bend, Oregon to the Maiden Lake trailhead it’s almost exactly 60 miles and 1 hour, 15 minutes driving time. From Bend, head south on Highway 97 for 17 miles, then exit right onto Vandevert Road (south of the main Sunriver exit). In about one mile, turn left on S Century Drive. Follow Century Drive south for 1.1 miles, then turn right to stay on S Century Drive. You’ll take this 22.8 miles to Cascade Lakes National Scenic Byway. Turn left on Cascade Lakes, following it south for 11.8 miles. Turn right on NF-4600 and follow that for 5 miles. This forest service road ends at the Maiden Lake Trailhead. There are no facilities at the trailhead. There is space to park about six vehicles. At the time of writing, no pass is required for parking. Get turn-by-turn directions via Google Maps.

Hiking to Maiden Peak via the Maiden Lake Trail

The trailhead begins at an elevation of 4,922′ and climb steadily but gradually.

You’ll climb just half of the total vertical in the first three miles, where you reach the first trail junction. Maiden Lake heads to the left, but I recommend noting this for a potential side trip on your return down the mountain. For now, continue to the right.

Interesting to see the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) listed here as the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail (PCNST)

About a mile before the summit, the trail gets steeper, finally joining the Maiden Peak Trail for the remainder of the route to the summit.

As you come around the west side of the peak, you finally get above the trees and the views really begin to open up.

The summit of the peak is broad, and marked by a pile of rocks and rusty debris.

This is an out-and-back route, so return the way you came. If you have time and energy, take the side trail to Maiden Lake. It’s a hidden gem that is worth the short hike. There is no outlet for this lake, and it’s amazingly clear.

Maiden Peak via Maiden Lake Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Maiden Peak Tips and Resources

• Bring plenty of water, sun protection, and the other ten essentials.
• Also check out the route to the summit from the Gold Lake trailhead.
• Layer up! It can be cold and windy at the summit.

The Central Oregon Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

Maiden Peak is part of the Central Oregon Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge, a self-paced hiking challenge that takes you up six iconic mountains, each a bit higher and tougher.

It’s a challenge in itself, or great training for still bigger adventures. And your registration helps support some great outdoor-related non-profits. Learn more and sign up here.

Originally hiked on October 20, 2020. 

Black Butte is an iconic mountain that stands alone, prominent and proud. The 6,436′ extinct start volcano lies 10 miles northwest of Sisters, Oregon along Highway 20. There are two ways to hike Black Butte. The shorter route from the Upper Trailhead is only four miles round trip, but requires a long drive up a washboard gravel forest service road. Starting from the Lower Trailhead is an easy drive, but a much longer hike. You begin at the base of the mountain and climb over three miles before joining the Upper Trailhead to continue your hike to the summit. The total roundtrip distance from the lower trailhead is 10.5 miles, with 3,400 feet of vertical gain.

Trail Details

Summit: 6,436′
Distance: 10.5 miles
Time: 5-6 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 3,400 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Spring-Fall

The popular trail is well-maintained and can usually be hiked earlier in the season when the roads to other trailheads are still closed.

Getting to the Black Butte Lower Trailhead

From Sisters, Oregon head west on US Highway 20 for ten miles. Turn right to head north on Camp Sherman Road. Follow Camp Sherman for 2.6 miles, then turn right onto SW Metolius River Road. Turn right at 0.2 miles (the first possible turn) onto the dirt and gravel Forest Service Road 1430 (there is no sign). A few hundred yards on your right is the parking area, with room for about 10 vehicles. There are no posted requirements for parking fees or passes, and there are no toilets or water at this trailhead. Get turn-by-turn directions via Google Maps.

Hiking Black Butte from the Lower Trailhead

From the dirt parking area, look for the Black Butte Trail sign. You will see the mixed use trail heading due west, mostly flat for the first mile. This trail winds around the mountain at the base, so you’ll want to watch for the wood posts to turn on the hikers-only connector trails that head uphill. There are two options, and when you look at the map at the bottom of this trail guide, you’ll see we took the first option on the way up the mountain (~.75 miles from the trailhead), and the other on the way down (~1 mile from the trailhead). The second option is the more popular route.

From here, the trail begins a relentless but mostly gradual climb up and around the mountain. You will cross two forest service roads as you climb; watch for the hiker trail on the other side of the road and do a map check to make sure you’re on the correct route. At 3.2 miles you reach the Upper Trailhead. There is a picnic table and this is a great spot to take a break.  50 yards down the parking area here are pit toilets.

Note that the sign for the trail back down to the Lower Trailhead (from which you just hiked) is more prominent than any sign for the summit. On my most recent hike here, I helped two separate hikers parked at the upper trailhead who started hiking down the mountain until I asked them if they meant to hike to the summit.

For a detailed guide from the Upper Trailhead to the summit, read Hiking Black Butte from the Upper Trailhead. The trail for the upper section is the same for both routes. From here, it’s a bit over two miles to the summit. The trail up has one switchback, then spirals upward toward the summit.

As you climb above the tree line, you are rewarded with sweeping views of the Cascade Mountains.

You’ll see the tall fire lookout tower that is actively manned during the summer months. As you round the east side of the mountain, you’ll hike through the scars of two modern wildfires before finally reaching the broad summit.

Once on the top of the butte, follow the trail to the northwest to visit the historic cupola (look for the rock carved by the “Bachelor of Black Butte” a century ago). Continue past the cupola to the new viewpoint deck. On a clear day, you can see Mount Hood and even Mount Adams.

When you’ve finished soaking in the views, retrace your route back down the mountain.

Black Butte Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Black Butte Hiking Tips

• At the top, please stay on the marked trails to avoid damaging the fragile ecosystem.
• Bring plenty of water, sun protection, and the other ten essentials.
• Check out William Sullivan’s 100 Hikes / Travel Guide Central Oregon Cascades (affiliate link) for more on the history and flora on Black Butte.
• For a shorter version of this hike that still goes to the summit, read our guide for Hiking Black Butte from the Upper Trailhead.
• This mountain gets snow in the winter and becomes a more technical climb. Check the conditions before you go. I’ve used snowshoes on this trail during the month of January and microspikes and trekking poles can be helpful even into June depending on the snowfall.

The Central Oregon Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

Black Butte is part of the Central Oregon Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge, a self-paced hiking challenge that takes you up six, iconic peaks–each one a bit higher and tougher.

It’s a challenge in itself, or great training for still bigger adventures. Learn more and sign-up here.

Originally hiked on February 17, 2022 with David and Ethan.
Latest hike on May 21, 2022 with Scott.

Hot Springs Mountain in the Los Coyotes Reservation is the highest peak in San Diego County, with chaparral, oak and pine forests. On a clear day, you can see the Pacific Ocean over 50 miles away. Near the summit are the crumbling remains of a lookout tower, and the true summit requires a short boulder scramble. It’s an area of impressive natural beauty and biodiversity.

Trail Details

Summit: 6,533′
Distance: 10.2 miles
Time: 4-6 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,118 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Year-round

Getting to the Hot Springs Mountain Trailhead

The nearest town is Warner Springs, and the drive to the trailhead takes about an hour from Temecula or an an hour and 20 minutes from Escondido. From Highway 79 in Warner Springs, you’ll turn onto Camino San Ignacio Road. This road travels 7.7 miles to the trailhead at the intersection with Sukat Road, but you’ll have to stop at the entrance to the Los Coyotes Reservation and pay a per-person day-use fee, which at the time of writing was $10 per person.

The trailhead is not clearly marked, other than a small sign identifying Sukat Road. The road can be found at the west edge of the campground (to your left as you enter the campground. The campground itself was still closed to camping due to the pandemic, but this made parking a breeze. Get turn-by-turn driving directions on Google Maps.

Hiking Hot Springs Mountain

The trail begins up Sukat Road, a jeep trail that was chained off at the time of our hike. Once you step over the chain, the climbing begins. Being a jeep trail, the trail never gets too steep, although having trekking poles would be helpful. Leaving behind the tall oaks in the valley, the are open patches interspersed with tall pines, cedars and chaparral.

As you climb, the buckwheat and manzanita give way to forest.

At 2.8 miles, you reach a junction with Hot Springs Mountain Road. It’s another dirt road, and you might not even notice it, as Sukat Road bends to join it nearly seamlessly. There is a sign pointing you toward the Lookout Tower, and that’s the direction you want to continue.

From here, the trail is forested and climbs gently with a few dips to keep it interesting. Towering cedar trees line the trail on both sides.

At five miles, the lookout tower comes into view, and the jeep trails opens to a large flat turnaround area. When we hiked this, there were colored flags tied to the branches to mark the trail.

Continue across the flat open area to the trees on the north side of the clearing, and the trail to the true summit continues as a single track that snakes through manzanita and trees to a large boulder pile. There’s a marker at the top of the highest boulder, but climbing up them is entirely optional, depending on your comfort level.

The summit can only handle a few people at the top at any one time. If you want to stop for a break, a better location is at the concrete steps leading to the base of the closed (and decaying) lookout tower. Though this side of the summit mount is slightly lower, the views are the same.

There are plenty of places to spread out for a snack break before retracing your steps back to the trailhead.

On the way back, the junction with Sukat Road is more obvious. Take a left on Sukat Road, following the sign directing you to the campground.

Hot Springs Mountain Map & Elevation Profile

Hot Springs Mountain Resources

• At the time of writing, a $10 per person use fee is required to enter the reservation
• Dogs are permitted, but must remain on leash at all times
• There is a porta-potty at the trailhead, but bring your own water and pack out all your own trash and Leave No Trace
• Be sure the carry the 10 Essentials
• Know how to #RecreateResponsibly
• Information on the Los Coyotes Reservation
• Weather forecast for Hot Springs Mountain

San Diego Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

This hike is part of the San Diego Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. This self-paced hiking challenge includes six hikes in San Diego County. They are a great way to explore the area, train for bigger adventures, and you’ll be doing good, with a portion of the net proceeds going to support Big City Mountaineers.

The annual challenge runs between January 1st and December 31st.  Be sure to check out the SoCal challenge, too!

Originally hiked on October 24, 2020 with Joan, Will, Shannon, Lucy and Farley. Special thanks to Will for serving tacos! 

Trail Details

Distance: 9.6 miles
Time: 3-4 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 1,625 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: June-October

One extra perk? After the first mile, you’ll leave the crowds behind. 

Getting to Tumalo Falls

The trailhead parking area is 13.5 miles west of downtown Bend. Take Skyliners Road to Tumalo Falls Road, crossing Tumalo Creek on a one-lane bridge, and following a washboard gravel road another 2.5 miles to the parking area. There is a fee station that takes cash or cards for day use parking. If the parking area is full, you can also park on the side of the road (obey all signs). The fee still applies. Get turn-by-turn driving directions via Google Maps.

There is no water at the trailhead, but there are pit toilets.

Hiking the Tumalo Falls to Farewell Loop Trail

Start with a a look at the Tumalo Falls viewpoint, just steps from the trailhead.

Head back to the trail and start up hill. After a short climb, you’ll come to a overlook trail with a railing. There are several viewpoints along the way to the top of the falls.

This is where most people stop and turn around, missing out on the beauty of Tumalo Creek and it’s many falls and cascades. Head back to the main trail as it parallels the creek and heads upstream.

At one mile, you’ll see a signpost for a viewpoint on the cliff, overlooking the aptly named Double Falls.

At the two-mile mark, you reach Upper Tumalo Falls.

A quarter mile past Upper Tumalo Falls, you cross the Middle Fork of Tumalo Creek via a log bridge.

There are numerous cascades and falls, now on the south side of the trail.

At 3.5 miles, you join the Swampy Lakes Trail.  Continue to the right towards Happy Valley. You get a break from the climbing as the trail continues. At 4 miles, you reach the junction with the Metolius-Windigo Trail. Here you turn north, crossing the creek on another log bridge and begin climbing towards the ridge.

Note that this is the last chance for water on the trail. The remainder of the trail is dry and has more sun exposure. If you do refill water bottles here, be sure to filter or treat it.

Near the ridgeline, the trail briefly joins Forest Service Road #4601. Turn right (east) and in about 20 yards, take the Mrazek Trail to the right.

The Mrazek trail parallels the Forest Service road, lower on the ridgeline. At ~6.25 miles you reach the junction with the Farewell Trail. Turn right and follow this trail back down to Tumalo Falls. The views begin to open up, give you a chance to see Tumalo Mountain (with Mount Bachelor peeking over it’s shoulder), Broken Top and South Sister.

This descent on the Farewell Trail has more exposure, and can get hot in the afternoon sun.

Tumalo Falls to Farewell Loop Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Tumalo Falls Tips & Resources

• Looking for something a little shorter? Hike up to the Swampy Lakes Trail, then turn around and turn it into an out-and-back. You could choose your own halfway point — Double Falls, Upper Tumalo Falls, or further.
• This route is also perfect for mountain biking. Note that while hikers can travel in either direction on the North Fork trail, bikes are only allowed uphill.
• Check the official Deschutes National Forest website for latest trail restrictions and conditions.

Originally hiked on July 4, 2020 with Joan and our two Austrailian Labradoodles, Lucy and Farley.

A peak in the beautiful Mayacamas Mountains overlooking Napa Valley and beyond, Mount Saint Helena will give you the best views all around.  In Robert Louis Stevenson State Park, this hike is great at different times of the year and one of the few mountains in the Bay Area to get snowfall in the winter.

This out and back hike begins and ends at the Stevenson Memorial Trailhead just north of the Napa Valley Wine Country. The parking lot is easy to miss and looks like a large turn around spot.  Be sure to arrive early. I have seen it fill up before 7am in the winter. A recent summer trip was a midweek hike and I was the second car in the lot at 6:30am. This trail is popular for hikers, mountain bikers and rock climbers and since 6 miles of it is on the road, an occasional PGE vehicle.

Trail Details

Summit Elev.: 4,341′
Distance: 10.7 miles
Time: 4-6 hours
Difficulty: Moderately Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,119′
Dogs: No
When to go: Year-round

Getting to the Mount Saint Helena Trailhead

From the majority of the Bay Area, it is quickest to take 80 East (though it goes mostly north) past Highway 29, and take 12 west until it intersects 29 at a stop light. Here, go right and drive through wine country!  Be sure to scope out ones you may want to visit afterwards.

In the town of Calistoga, 29 takes a right to the stop sign. Continue on 29 out of Calistoga where it begins to get windy. The road proceeds up the shoulder of Mount St. Helena.

At the top, there will be a pedestrian crossing sign promptly followed by parking areas on both the right and left sides of the road, they’re pretty easy to fly by, but that’s where you park.  I passed it on my first visit but it was still dark outside, just before sunrise. There is no fee for parking or entering the park but be sure to get there early if you don’t want to park on the busy bustling street.

One visit where I rock climbed on Mount Saint Helena, I camped in a yurt at Bothe Napa State Park a few miles away.  A nice little campground and Yurtville where every group had a few bottles of wine. A nice way to unwind after a day of outdoor adventure.

Hiking Mount Saint Helena

The parking lot sits directly across the road from the trailhead and picnic area and is open sunrise to sunset.  Be sure to use caution while crossing this busy road.

Just off to the left of the picnic area is the sign for the trailhead, keep a look out for this sign since the trail can be easily missed because it is part of a creek in the early spring and can get quite overgrown. Go right from the sign to start the most challenging part of the climb.

From here, follow the gradually rising and mellow switchbacks up.  This first mile is a 443 ft gain and the steepest section of the entire hike.

This 2 mile section is under the Oak, Madrone and Douglas Fir canopy, which is a nice break from the hot sun. It’s just under a mile until you reach the Monument, shaped like an open book: this is where the newly married Stevenson’s cabin was located. I marked it at .8 miles.

Look to the right of this marker and you’ll see faint steps carved into the rock; this is the trail that leads to the fire road that will, in turn, lead to the peak.

When I hiked this trail in February, the snow-covered trees made this trail a winter wonderland.

The terrain is pretty rugged here but once you get through the narrow and rocky section, you will reach the road and follow it all the way up to the peak.

You will see a trail sign at the trail and road junction which directs you up, so stay to the left here.

Hike a couple hundred feet for some amazing views of Calistoga and Napa Valley.

Be prepared for sunshine the rest of the way.If you start you hike early, this section will be forgiving with shaded areas and a nice breeze to cool you down on your climb up.

Be sure to stop and take in the scenery as you make your around the south west side of the mountain looking out to Calistoga and Sonoma.

At about the 2 mile mark, you may see some rock climbers as you pass The Bubble, known for having the most scenic rock climbing views in the Bay Area. If you get a chance to climb, don’t forget to look behind you and take in the scenery.  It is pretty darn epic.

This was my favorite stretch when it was covered in snow in February.  Be sure to arrive early to enjoy it before the sun makes it slushy.

Follow the road all the way up and as you approach mile 4, you can see the peaks with the towers and there will be a junction on the trail.

Stay to the right here and you will be headed toward your summit. If you go to the left you will reach the lower south peak, continue straight to get to the highest (northern-most) peak with the red and white tower.

There are a few side trails that I haven’t explored yet and can be confusing to navigate.  Rest assured if you stay on the road you will reach your summit at 5.1 miles and be rewarded with 360 views of Sonoma, Napa and Lake Counties.

In the early winter I experienced gusty winds at the peak but in February it was the snow covered summit that made this place special.

When I hiked last week, it was about 90 when I reached the top.  I checked the weather and prepared with sun protection, 3L of water and a hearty brunch to enjoy.

There’s a mound of rocks that represents the actual peak, with a plaque commemorating the Russian expedition that reached the it in 1841, naming the mountain after Princess Helena de Gagarin, wife of the commander in charge of Fort Ross on the Sonoma Coast–another place to visit.

From the summit on a clear day you can see Mount Tamalpais, Mount Diablo, and the Sierras! The volcanic rock on top makes a great spot to sit and enjoy lunch while taking in the scenery.

In the Spring, gusty winds can be brutal and once I stood next to a small structure to take shelter from the shade while I enjoyed my lunch. On a hot day, finding a spot to sit on the rocks can give you a little relief from the sun while facing out to the beautiful mountains beyond.

As you make your decent, just retrace the same path you took up, but be sure to take in the views on your way down.

Soon after you pass The Bubble, keep an eye out for the trail sign on the right.  It can be easily missed depending on the time of you visit.  Make your way down the rocky section back to the Monument back to the picnic area.

Back at the Trailhead

Once you reach the parking lot, you may notice how full it can get.  While some have hiked the same trail you did, others hiked about two miles the other way to visit or climb Table Rock with wonderful views of Mount Saint Helena.

All trails in this park are open to the elements and should be taken into consideration all times of the year.  One thing I have realized over the past year is that there is no bad weather, just the wrong gear and being fully prepared with the 10 Essentials with enough water and snacks to keep this hike enjoyable.

The total roundtrip distance of the trail is a little over ten miles. (I have it marked at 10.7 both times I have recorded this hike on AllTrails and 10.31 on Gaia GPS) The grade isn’t extreme, so given the time (and water) most people in moderate shape will be fine. There is, however, added incentive to finish the hike: just down the hill in the town of Calistoga there are many great wineries and breweries.

There is nothing like sipping a glass of wine while looking back at the mountain you just climbed.  Maybe next time I’ll drive down and try a mud bath.

Mount Saint Helena Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Mount Saint Helena Peak Resources

• Robert Louis Stevenson State Park – official website
• Be sure to carry the Ten Essentials

NorCal Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

This hike is part of the Northern California Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. This self-paced hiking challenge includes six hikes in the San Francisco Bay Area. They are a great way to explore the area, train for bigger adventures, and you’ll be doing good, with a portion of the net proceeds going to support Big City Mountaineers.

The highest point in all of Arizona, Humphreys Peak towers above the surrounding region. Millions of years ago a massive stratovolcano called San Francisco Mountain stood around 16,000 feet tall, but it eventually collapsed leaving an arc of peaks which rim the Inner Basin. Hike through a beautiful forest of conifers and aspens up along the panoramic ridge that leads to the top of Arizona!

Trail Details

Summit Elev.: 12,633′
Distance: 10.5 miles
Time: 6-8 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 3,406′
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Spring, Summer, Fall

Getting to the Humphreys Peak Trailhead

From Flagstaff, head north out of town on Hwy 180. After mile marker 222, turn right onto N Snow Bowl Rd. following the sign for the Arizona Snowbowl. Continue up the windy road for 6.5 miles. You will come to a sign pointing left that says “LOT 1 Base Area Parking Humphrey Trail”. Turn left into that parking area for the trailhead. There is no water at the trailhead, or along the trail, so make sure you show up with plenty. During summer, there are usually a few porta-potties in the parking lot.

Lightning Danger

In the summer season, thunderstorms are your primary concern. Check the weather forecast, start early, pack layers even if it’s hot in town, and keep an eye on the sky for developing storms. It gets windy and cold on the ridge, and sometimes you won’t see storms coming until you get to the saddle. Even if you don’t expect anything but blue skies, plan to be back down off the mountain by early afternoon. On summer afternoons, the summit area has reportedly been struck by over one hundred lightning strikes in a single hour. In July 2016, a 17 year old boy was struck by lightning and died at the summit. If there appears to be any chance of a storm while you are above tree line, turn back and get down as fast and safely as you can, and live to hike another day. The mountain is not going anywhere.

Hiking Humphreys Peak

Start your hike from the trailhead at the northeast corner of the parking lot. Cross the open meadow to the forest on the far side, and pass under one of the ski lifts along the way. In winter this meadow is the beginner’s slope.

On the other side, you’ll find a sign marking the boundary of the Kachina Peaks Wilderness, and the trail heads into the trees.

The first half of this route is a series of long switchback, followed by a few short switchbacks, all below tree line. Flanked by birch and pine trees, this lower forest feels like a sanctuary. The trail is mostly clear, but some downed trees remain across the path.

A little beyond the half mile mark is the first switchback turn, and little before the one mile mark is the trail register. Fill out the register with your information, and take a break to drink, eat and adjust if necessary. Where the register pedestal is located is also a trail junction, so make sure you turn left onto the next switchback. If you go straight, instead, you would end up at the ski lodge.

The trail continues up through the beautiful forest hitting some rocky and root-covered sections at times, but overall smooth sailing.

The switchbacks remain rather long with a right switchback turn at 1.3 miles, a left switchback turn at mile 1.7 miles, and an easily missed right switchback turn at 2.3 miles. The last one is easily missed because it coincides with an old avalanche path.

When you come to this broad boulder field that runs up and down the mountainside, do not cross it. Turn right onto the next switchback.

At this point you start to get small views opening up in windows between the trees, especially if you step out onto the boulder field. Two more turns between long switchbacks remain – left at 2.8 miles and right at 3 miles. The trail then curves left as views of the ski runs and Agassiz Peak, Arizona’s second tallest, open up.

Around three and three quarters of a mile, the series of shorter switchbacks begins. After a couple turns you get to about 11,400’ of elevation, where there’s a sign explaining to not hike off trail or camp above this point. This is because you are entering an alpine zone. Many people are tempted to cut straight up to the saddle here, but you should continue along the switchback you are on. The terrain and ecosystem near and above tree line are very fragile. You should avoid hiking off-trail anywhere, but it can be especially harmful here.

At this point the saddle is so close, you can smell that view of the Inner Basin.The saddle sits at about 11,700’ elevation and a little beyond the 4 mile mark. With amazing views down into the backside bowl, here is a great place to take a break. It’s also a good spot to assess incoming adverse weather and decide if it looks safe to proceed.

Here you are firmly reminded of the fact that you are on the rim of an extinct volcano, looking down into its crater. You can just about see the true peak, but take note of how the ridge undulates up to the summit. When you’re on that ridge, you can be fooled into thinking you are at the top, when you still have a way to go. Also here is a trail junction, make sure you go left up the ridge.

The species of trees up here is the bristlecone pine, which in some regions grow to be thousands of years old. Continue on the path through these resolute figures, staying on the left side of the ridge. Among the final trees, and above them, there are wooden poles marking the trail at varying intervals. If in doubt, stay left and scan ahead for the next post.

As you climb, make sure to look back and to your left to appreciate the views to the south.

You will encounter a few small dips, but the trail is mostly up, up, up the rest of the way. Take small breaks to enjoy the view, try not to be discouraged by the false summits, and pay attention to your breathing.

Around five miles and a quarter from the trailhead, you will find yourself standing at the top of Arizona! Views of the Grand Canyon, Oak Creek Canyon, Bill Williams Mountain, Kendrick Peak, and the Inner Basin are all there for your ocular pleasure.

Take it all in, keep watching for developing storm clouds, and return down the way you came.

Humphreys Peak Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Humphreys Peak Resources

• Forest Service page for Humphreys Trail No. 151
• To hike this in winter, a free backcountry permit is required
• As previously mentioned, lightning strikes are common, especially in the afternoon. Keep an eye on the weather and turn around immediately and head below tree-line if thunderclouds loom.
• Be sure to carry the Ten Essentials

Arizona Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge – Summer Edition

This hike is part of the Arizona Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge – Summer Edition. This self-paced hiking challenge includes six hikes all easily reached from the Flagstaff/Sedona area. They are a great way to explore the area, train for bigger adventures, and you’ll be doing good, with a portion of the net proceeds going to support Big City Mountaineers.

Registration for the summer challenge runs between April 1 and September 15.  Be sure to check out the winter challenge, too!

One of the tallest mountains in the San Francisco volcanic field, Kendrick Peak offers spectacular views stretching from Humphreys Peak to the Grand Canyon. The trail begins in a quintessential ponderosa pine forest, travels up through a decades old burn area, and passes by a century-old historic cabin. At the very top, enjoy the scenery from the fire lookout built in the 60’s, or have a picnic in the sun on the platform just below.

Trail Details

Summit Elev.: 10,418′
Distance: 9.4 miles
Time: 5-6 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,851′
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Spring, Summer, Fall

Getting to the Kendrick Peak Trailhead

From Flagstaff, head north out of town on Hwy 180. Continue on 180 for ten miles beyond the turn for Arizona Snowbowl. After mile marker 232, and just before mile marker 233, turn left onto FS 193 – a dirt road with a cattle guard at the start. Go about 3.2 miles until it ends at a T intersection with FS 171. Go right on FS 171, and continue about 2 miles. Turn right onto FS 190, go up about half a mile and you’ll see the trailhead parking area on the right side.

The lot is dirt and all roads from Hwy 180 are unpaved, but regular passenger cars typically have no trouble accessing this trailhead. The start of the trail is located at the northeast corner of the lot. There are garbage cans and a pit toilet, but no running water.

Hiking Kendrick Peak

Take some time looking over the trailhead signage to get your bearings, and learn some history about fires and fire prevention in the Kendrick Mountain Wilderness. Ponder where the Pumpkin name comes from, then pass through the fence to start your hike. The trail begins broad and easy in a forest of ponderosa pines.

The path wraps around the southeast slope of East Newman Hill, then turns north with four quick switchbacks. Here you see increasing evidence of the 2000 Pumpkin Fire.

Continue through the more severe burn area. Around the 1.5 mile mark the trail approaches the drainage dip one last time before switchbacking left. Without a noticeable increase in steepness, the trail climbs onto the southwest ridge of Kendrick Peak.

Once you are on the ridge, this is a nice place to take a break. It’s about the 2 mile mark, and the area is a broad flat shoulder with good spots to park it. After some noshing and sipping, continue switchbacking up the ridge. Somewhere around the eighth or ninth switchback, the trail takes a conifer respite and gives you some birch tree action.

The trail gradually moves east until the 3 mile mark where it crosses the south ridge, continues moving up the southeast side of the mountain, and switchbacks up to the expansive flat just east of the peak. A little beyond the 4 mile mark you will find an old cabin. Built in 1912, this cabin was saved from the Pumpkin Fire by fire fighters who wrapped the structure in fire resistant material.

After imagining the cabin wrapped up like a giant baked potato, continue west on the path toward the peak. There’s a sign along the trail after the cabin that says “Kendrick Lookout”, and about a half mile after that you reach the top of Kendrick Peak!

To the east is Humphreys Peak, and if you look to the north on a clear day you can easily see the Grand Canyon. There’s a fire lookout at the true summit, and a nice platform on the west side of the peak perfect for a summit picnic.

When your eyeballs have had their fill of the view, return down the same way you came up.

Kendrick Peak Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Kendrick Peak Resources

• Forest Service’s web pages with info on the Kendrick Mountain Trail.

Arizona Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge – Summer Edition

This hike is part of the Arizona Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge – Summer Edition. This self-paced hiking challenge includes six hikes all easily reached from the Flagstaff/Sedona area. They are a great way to explore the area, train for bigger adventures, and you’ll be doing good, with a portion of the net proceeds going to support Big City Mountaineers.

Registration for the summer challenge runs between April 1 and September 15.  Be sure to check out the winter challenge, too!

Hiking O’Leary Peak will take you to the edge of a millennia old lava flow, and up high above to look down on the cinder cone that created it. From the lookout tower at the top of this lava dome, you’ll look into the heart of the San Francisco Peaks, marvel at the size of Humphrey’s Peak, and enjoy a birds eye view of Sunset Crater National Monument.

Trail Details

Summit Elev.: 8,916′
Distance: 10 miles
Time: 5-6 hours
Difficulty: Moderately Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,014′
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Spring, Summer, Fall

Getting to the Trailhead

From Flagstaff, head North on Hwy 89. Eleven miles passed the Flagstaff KOA, turn right following the sign for Sunset Crater Volcano Wupatki National Monument. Continue straight on Fire Road 545 for 1.8 miles, then turn Left at the sign for O’Leary Group Campground onto Fire Road 545A.

The road dead-ends at the gated trailhead after about a quarter mile and there are spaces to park on the right. There is no bathroom or water at the trailhead.

Hiking O’Leary Peak

To begin the hike, pass by the gate and start walking the wide black cinder path. The first mile is a combination of flat and slight downhill, as you approach and curve left along the edge of the Bonito Lava Flow. This vast flow was created by the Sunset Crater Volcano 1,000 years ago.

As the path begins to bend northward, Darton Dome then O’Leary Peak come into view. These peaks were all created from volcanic activity, but they are different types of structures. Sunset Crater is a cinder cone, while O’Leary Peak is a lava dome.

Feel free to leave the path and explore the lava flow – the Forest Service encourages it. After investigating the inky dollops, return to the trail and continue towards the peak. The incline comes on in fits and starts during the second mile, then holds steady for the duration. Just before the two mile mark you hit the first of six switchbacks. Here the trees start to become sparse, and the view of the lava field starts to open up.

The trail approaches a saddle, but doesn’t quite reach it before hitting the second switchback. This is by far the longest of the switchbacks. As you progress along this leg, look back to see Humphrey’s Peak rise above the trees.

This long switchback eventually ends at the saddle between O’Leary Peak and Darton Dome, around the 3.5 mile mark. If you look up from here, you can see the tower standing at the top of the ridge. Go left through an open gate, starting the third switchback.

This switchback is about as long as the first. The last three are all shorter, which you’ll find start at mile 4.0, mile 4.3, and mile 4.6 At mile 4.8 you will pass by a final gate. The tower is so close, it’s visible from here!

Continue up the final steep finish to the tower! There’s a sign next to the tower listing the hours it should be open and staffed, but I was there during open hours and it was apparently unattended. If you do hike it while there’s someone on watch, just holler up to ask for permission to climb aboard. If not, the view from around the base of the tower is certainly good enough.

Take in the panoramic view spanning from Sunset Crater to the south and Humphrey’s Peak to the west. Once you’ve finished contemplating the structural differences between cinder cones and lava domes, return back down the way you came.

O’Leary Peak Trail Map & Elevation Profile

O’Leary Peak Resources

• Dogs are allowed, but be aware that the dark gravel trails may get too hot for Fido’s paws.
• Forest Service’s web pages with info on the O’Leary Peak Trail

Flagstaff Weather Forecast

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Arizona Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge – Summer Edition

This hike is part of the Arizona Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge – Summer Edition. This self-paced hiking challenge includes six hikes all easily reached from the Flagstaff/Sedona area. They are a great way to explore the area, train for bigger adventures, and you’ll be doing good, with a portion of the net proceeds going to support Big City Mountaineers.

Registration for the summer challenge opens April 1st! Be sure to check out the winter challenge, too!

Colchuck Lake is truly a gem of a day hike. It is the bigger brother to the nearby Enchantment Lakes, much easier to reach (as a day hike, especially), and some have described it as a religious experience. The glacier-fed waters of Colchuck Lake are an ethereal aquamarine blue. The jagged peaks and passes surrounding the lake have mystical names like Dragontail and Aasgard Pass. It’s a magical hike and a great way to whet your appetite for further adventures in this area near Leavenworth.

Trail Details

Colchuck Lake: 5,570′
Distance: 8.8 miles
Time: 5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,392 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: June-October

Getting to the Trailhead

From the Bavarian-themed town of Leavenworth, head west on Highway 2 for about two miles, then turn left onto Icicle Road. Follow Icicle Road for 8.5 miles, turning left onto NF-7600. You’ll follow this forest service road for 3.7 miles to the trailhead parking area. Get turn-by-turn driving directions via Google Maps.

There is room for about 30 cars here and it still fills up. We had plenty of parking when we arrived, but it was pretty full by the time we finished our hike, even on a mid-week day after Labor Day. The key here is to start early. There are pit toilets at the trailhead as well as a picnic table. A Northwest Forest Pass or Interagency Pass (like a National Parks Annual Pass) is required to park at the trailhead. Permits for day hikes are self-issued at the trailhead, but permits for overnight trips must be obtained in advance.

Note that the Forest Service road from Icicle Road to the trailhead closes in winter, typically November to May due to snow.

Hiking to Colchuck Lake

The trail begins with a gentle, forested climb that follows the beautiful cascades of Mountaineer Creek.

After about 1.25 miles, you reach a footbridge and the climb begins to get serious.

Another mile up the trail and you reach a junction with the trail to Lake Stuart. Take the left branch pointing to Colchuck Lake, and you will see an improvised log bridge at the base of a boulder field.

Once you’ve crossed this second bridge, the trail picks its way along the base of the boulder field for about 20 yards before resuming a more typical dirt and rock trail. From here, the trail leaves Mountaineer Creek and begins to climb up the canyon wall.

This section of the trail has some steep parts, but it’s well engineered, well maintained and easy to follow. As you climb higher up the canyon wall, you begin to catch glimpses of the views that await you.

As the trail nears Colchuck Lake, you’ll see a sign to a pit toilet. It’s the only one here, and there are no walls. It’s truly a throne with a view! But please, if you need to answer the call of nature, use this pit toilet. Because of the popularity of this hike, human waste can become a real problem. Don’t be part of that problem.

And then… like magic, the blue waters of Colchuck Lake appear through the trees! The trail continues around the west side of the lake. Hike on to find a good spot to sit and soak in the views of the glacier-blue water. Craggy Dragontail Peak lies directly across from you, with Aasgard Pass to the left of that. From this vantage point, it’s difficult to imagine that there’s actually a trail headed up there, leading to the Enchantment Lakes.

We had a blustery, cloudy day for our hike, but just a touch of sunlight makes colorful Colchuck Lake come alive.

Explore the area of Colchuck Lake, and then return via the same route you came. Some sites list the mileage as under 8 miles for the total hike, but we logged a total of 8.8 miles on GaiaGPS.

Colchuck Lake Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Colchuck Lake Tips & Hiking Resources

• Overview of Colchuck Lake via WTA.org
• Get turn-by-turn driving directions to the trailhead via Google Maps
• Bring plenty of water. You’ll want at least one liter or more. You can replenish water in the creeks or lake, but be sure to filter or treat before drinking.
• Bring the 10 essentials.
• Practice the seven Leave No Trace principles.
• Stop in Leavenworth after your hike! There are some great restaurants and pubs.

Colchuck Lake Weather Forecast

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Originally hiked on September 13, 2018 with Joan.

Granite Mountain is said to offer great views, but at a price. The trail climbs nearly 1,000 vertical feet per mile. It’s steep, with only a few gentler slopes to catch your breath on. Access is straightforward, with the trail beginning off I-90 and less than an hour east of Seattle. Time your trip right (like I did) and you’ll enjoy an all-you-can-eat feast of huckleberries.

Trail Details

Summit: 5,629′
Distance: 8.6 miles
Time: 5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 3,800 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: After snow melts

Getting to the Trailhead

The trail begins at the Pratt Lake Trailhead. Heading east on I-90 from Seattle, take Exit 47, turning left at the stop sign to cross the highway, then left again at the “T” intersection. The Pratt Lake Trailhead is ahead on the right. You will need a Northwest Forest Pass or an interagency pass (like an annual National Parks pass) to park at the trailhead.

There is a pit toilet at the trailhead, and parking for about 35 cars. Get turn-by-turn directions to the trailhead via Google Maps. There is an information board at the trailhead with the latest on trail conditions and stern warnings about avalanche danger when there is still snow on the trail. A few yards further and you reach a self-issue permit station. Permits are free and there is no quota, but they are required here, even for day hikes (one per party). Take a moment to fill one out before hitting the trail.

Hiking Granite Mountain

You begin on the gentle, forested Platt Lake Trail, climbing through a shady forest on a soft trail with the occasional root or rock. On this particular Wednesday morning, I was the first to park at the trailhead, and had the mountain to myself. The light morning rain completed the forest bathing experience.

Roughly one mile in, you reach a sign informing you that you’ve entered the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

Another quarter mile beyond, you reach the junction to Granite Mountain. The trail to the left continues to Pratt Lake, but take the fork to the right and begin climbing in earnest. The trail quickly becomes steeper and rockier.

At about 4,000 feet you cross the avalanche chute, easily identified by the lack of trees.

From here you get a short respite, as the trail climbs more gradually along the side of the mountain, and the views begin to open up to the south and east. Here you see the first huckleberry bushes.

As the trail climbs over the shoulder of Granite Mountain, the lookout tower may come into view (not the case on this cloudy day). You travel through an alpine meadow on the east side of the mountain before the final, rocky push to the summit. It’s steep, but you’re nearly there, and before you know it, you’ve reached the lookout tower.

It’s been said that the views from Granite Mountain are the real payoff for the steep climb. Not so much the case on this cloudy, drizzly day, but it was still beautiful, and I had the summit to myself. I ran into about a half a dozen other hikers on my way back down the mountain, but nothing close to the crowds that can be found here on sunny weekends, when you might be sharing the summit with a hundred other hikers.

The solitude was wonderful, but the real pay-off on this particular hike? The huckleberries. I had never picked huckleberries before, and the bushes were abundant. Chatting with another hiker-forager on the trail, this year had been particularly good for the huckleberry crop. Picking them required patience, but I took an empty Nalgene bottle and filled it nearly half-way with the delicious berries before continuing back down the trail.

I made good time on the way back down, even breaking into a light jog when the trail smoothed out enough to do so safely. Though I didn’t get the amazing views Granite Mountain is renown for, it was still a beautiful hike.

What do the views look like on a clear day? Check out bikejr’s Granite Mountain photo album on Flickr.

Granite Mountain Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Note: my GPS tracker had a lot of “noise” interference from the trees, so the mileage shown on the elevation profile is exaggerated. My actual mileage total was 9.2 miles, about half a mile longer than the posted mileage, accounted for by meandering at the summit and picking huckleberries…and totally worth it.

Granite Mountain Tips & Hiking Resources

• Overview of Granite Mountain via WTA.org
• Get turn-by-turn driving directions to the trailhead via Google Maps
• Bring plenty of water. You’ll want at least two liters or more. Also bring the 10 essentials.
• Practice the seven Leave No Trace principles.

Granite Mountain Weather Forecast

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Originally hiked on September 12, 2018.

There are two main routes leading up infamous Mailbox Peak, and this loop takes you up one (the “Old” trail) and down the other (the kinder, gentler “new” trail). This is the summit mountaineers train on when winter weather shuts down access to higher peaks. And for good reason, the old trail climbs over 4,000 vertical feet in less than three miles. It’s gnarled with roots, slick with mud (or snow and ice, depending on the season). Unsuspecting and underprepared hikers are prone to get lost, hurt or both, and the stories of rescues on the original trail are well documented.

Trail Details

Distance: 8.3 miles
Time: 4-6 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 4,237 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Year-round, but expect snow at the top in winter

Getting to the Trailhead

This place is crazy popular on summer weekends, so much so that even after building a second parking area, there is now a shuttle that operates on weekends, running from Twin Falls Middle School to the trailhead every 20 minutes. It’s $2.75 per rider, but you won’t need a Discover Pass.

If you do park at the trailhead, a Discover Pass is required. There is a parking area outside the gate for the early starters. Pro tip: Be an early starter. The gate to the upper parking area is open from 7am to 8pm. You can get turn-by-turn driving directions here via Google Maps.

Hiking up Mailbox Peak

Before you hike Mailbox Peak, realize that taking the old trail is entirely optional. It’s risky business, so if you have any doubts about your ability to navigate or handle a dangerous, unmaintained trail, take the new trail both ways– up and down. No question; it’s still a challenge, as is any hike with over 4,000 vertical feet. But it’s a trail that is darn near impossible to get lost on, and it’s a much nicer, well-built and maintained trail.

Having said that… let’s take a look at the climb up the so-called old trail up Mailbox Peak.

Continue past the new trailhead, following a gravel road that doesn’t even appear to be marked. There was no sign saying “old trail, this-a-way”, probably to discourage you from even considering it.

After about 0.3 miles, you reach the information sign marking the old trailhead. Read the warnings. Be prepared to heed them. Consider whether you should really be hiking up the new trail instead.

The main warning reads: “Mailbox Peak Trail is a very steep, wet, unmaintained, difficult, challenging trail. It is 2.5 miles one way to the top and gains 4,000 feet in elevation. Search and rescue teams are frequently called to this trail to assist distressed hikers. Please respect your own ability.”

Now wipe the look of shock and awe off your face and decide whether to continue on, or head back to the new trail.

The old trail starts out innocently enough. You might be fooled into thinking that the stories are overblown (they are not).

The trail soon starts climbing, going from steep to steeper.

If you look closely at a topo map, you’ll see that it follows a ridgeline. The trees and their roots form your steps and handholds on the way up.

At times, the trail become a web of informal footpaths, weaving in and out of the trees in a chaotic fashion. To stay the course, watch for the silver diamond markers on the trunks.

Eventually, the old trail intersects the new. The signpost here (not securely anchored when I hiked this) directs people on the new trail. There was an old section that headed straight across the new trail, but at this point you may as well enjoy the respite from the climb.

As they say, you need to slow down and smell the roses. Or the wildflowers, which were plentiful.

Another 0.2 miles up the trail, you reach a talus field. There are carefully crafted steps up the field (if there hasn’t been recent slide activity), making it a fairly easy climb.

Once at the top of this, a series of steep, short switchbacks up the final push to the summit. When people ask you (on your way down) if they are almost there, you can honestly tell them they in fact, ARE almost there.

And then, the mailbox appears. And the views open up. On this particular day, it felt like we could reach out and touch Mount Rainier.

This is the spot to pause, hydrate, refuel and recharge. Soak in those views (on a clear day) or catch your breath (on ANY day). Make a new friend. Odds are good that you won’t have the summit to yourself.

Heading down, you retrace your steps back to the bottom of the talus field, this time following the well-built and easy-to-hike new trail.

Yes, the new trail is twice as long, but it is kinder to your knees, hips, and feet. There are stretches were you might even break into a jog. It’s a really pleasant hiking experience.

Once back at the bottom, kick the dust (or mud) off your shoes and head to Twede’s Cafe in North Bend for a celebratory slice of Twin Peaks cherry pie and “a damn fine cup of coffee.”

You’ve earned it.

Mailbox Peak Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Mailbox Peak Tips and Resources

• Bring plenty of water. You are climbing 4,000 vertical feet or more. You’ll want at least three liters. Also bring the 10 essentials. Although this is a popular trail, you don’t want to be “that guy” that becomes a SAR statistic.
• Practice the seven Leave No Trace principles.
• Mailbox Peak (the new trail) via WTA.org
• Mailbox Peak (the old trail) via WTA.org
• Day Hiking Snoqualmie Region – Mountaineers Books

And for those who were wondering, yes, Mailbox Peak made the cut. It will be on the Pacific Northwest Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge.

Mailbox Peak Weather Forecast

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Originally hiked on July 24, 2018. I was duped by Moosefish. 

DAY THREE on the North Lake/South Lake Loop

The trail up to Evolution Valley starts off with a 1,000 feet of switchbacks that dig in right away!  The switchbacks follow the waterfall that is Evolution Creek flowing out of the valley – and some of the views are breathtaking.  As you top out, you then hike along the creek – watching your map to see how close you are to the famous “Evolution Creek Crossing”.

Bishop Loop Day 3 Details

Distance: 10.9 miles
Time: 5-8 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Gain/Loss: +2,696’/-135′
Dogs: No
When to go: Late July-Early October

After hiking about two miles, we reached the crossing. The creek didn’t look too deep, but it was running a bit faster than we’d like.  There was a solo hiker camped about 25 years upstream, and where he was camped looked like a perfect place to cross.  We walked over and started to change our shoes, and had a nice chat with our new friend – he agreed it was a good spot.  Knee deep at the outset, and then quite easy after that – we were across in seconds!  Evolution Creek, done!

As the trail opens up and enters Evolution Meadow, it’s an incredible view!  And, the views just keep getting better and better as you approach McClure Meadow.  It’s hard to believe this hidden gem of a valley sits right in the middle of the High Sierra.  Absolutely breathtaking!

After you pass the McClure Meadow ranger station, the valley opens up to Colby Meadow – another spectacular view.  Evolution Creek continues to wind through the valley and our anticipation grows as we know that the climb up to Evolution Lake is coming – and that the views looking back as we climb will be incredible!

A series of switchbacks take you up and out the West end of Evolution Valley – and you have to stop every few minutes and look back over the expanse of the Valley.  It’s simply amazing.

Finally, you top out above the tree line at the west end of Evolution Basin and the huge expanse of Evolution Lake.

At 10,852 feet, this giant lake has a short round section on the northwest end and a long center section that runs west to east – the trail goes all the way around the north side of the lake – and it’s quite a distance.

This north side trail had several snow fields to cross and the beautiful blue sky began to give way to some pretty ominous monsoonal storm clouds.  At the southeast end of the lake is a great water crossing with large rocks that is really fun.

The trail continues to climb gently to Sapphire Lake at 10,966 feet.  By this time, we were feeling rain drops and small hail – so we felt that the additional 500 vertical foot ascent to Wanda Lake was out of the question for today.  It was time to pitch camp at Sapphire Lake before the big rain or hail would hit.

We found a flat spot off the trail with close access to lake water and we set the tent up quickly.  I wanted to try a few fishing casts, but the wind was too strong.  Soon after, the hail started to pelt us and we took shelter in the tent.

When the hail finally stopped, we hopped out and had a quick dinner. We layered up as it was pretty cold, and invited a couple of other hikers to join us at the camp spot we had found.  Mark and Brian were childhood friends from SoCal on their first backpacking adventure!  They were already 9 days in from Mammoth and looked happy to find some other folks to get them off the trail before the weather hit.

By the time we finished eating, the rain arrived.  We hunkered down in our tent for about an hour of pretty decent rain.  Everything stayed dry and soon it would be a calm, clear and cold night at Sapphire Lake.

In the morning, we would make our ascent of the iconic Muir Pass!

Goddard Canyon to Sapphire Lake Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Originally hiked Tuesday, August 22, 2017.

Continue to Day Four: Sapphire Lake to Little Pete Meadow

DAY TWO on the North Lake/South Lake Loop

Our second day on the trail would be relatively short, and connect us with the John Muir Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail with the Goddard Canyon Junction our destination. We awoke to another beautiful, clear morning and we headed southwest along Piute Creek towards the JMT junction.

Bishop Loop Day 2 Details

Distance: 8.8 miles
Time: 5-7 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Gain/Loss: +498’/-1,537′
Dogs: No
When to go: Late July-Early October

The trail turned south and down a series of switchbacks, through manzanitas, and all the way down to 8,000 feet and the bridge that crosses over the creek and marks the junction of the John Muir Trail and the entrance to Kings Canyon National Park.

This just happened to be the morning of the full solar eclipse, but unfortunately cloudy skies rolled in and obscured our view and we never got to see it.

We took a few quick pics at the bridge, then crossed over and took a break in the campground on the other side.  Here it started to rain, so after a snack, we put on our rain jackets and covered our packs and headed southwest along the JMT.

This section of the JMT follows the powerful San Joaquin River southwest – past Muir Rock, then through Aspen Meadow, and then across another large bridge with some beautiful campsites on the other side.

We continued along the trail until just before the Goddard Canyon trail junction and bridge – where there was a great campsite along the trail with great access to water and a nice fire pit.  That was ours! The rain had stopped and it was camping time.

Although this was a relatively short 8.8 mile hiking day, it positioned us perfectly to climb up into Evolution Valley first thing the next morning – and that is always our strategy…try and set up the climbs for first thing each morning!  Climbing late in the day after a long day on the trail is no fun…at least for us.

Another family of deer joined us at the campsite, and we enjoyed their company by the fire during dinner until it was time for bed.  I suspect they slept nearby, as they were up and ready to greeting us first thing the next morning.

Hutchinson Meadow to Goddard Canyon Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Originally hiked on Monday, August 21, 2017.

Continue to Day Three: Goddard Canyon to Sapphire Lake

At 14,270′, Grays Peak is one of only two fourteeners that actually sits on the Continental Divide. The ninth-highest mountain in Colorado has a well-defined trail to the summit and its proximity to the slightly lower Torreys Peak (14,267′) make this a popular mountain destination, especially on summer weekends, so start your hike early. We started at 3am.

Trail Details

Summit: 14,270′
Distance: 8.6 miles
Time: 5-7 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,939 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Late-June to early October
Download GPX

Getting to the Trailhead

The trailhead to Grays Peak and Torrys Peak is about an hour from Denver, and just over 10 miles from Georgetown off Interstate 70. Take exit 221 from I-70 west and follow Stevens Gulch Road. The road is a rough, gravel road that travels three miles to the trailhead. While there were plenty of sedans at the trailhead, I recommend a high clearance vehicle and, in wet conditions, 4WD.

Another option is to park at the beginning of Stevens Gulch Road and hike in to the trailhead, though this adds a total of six miles to the trip. Get turn-by-turn directions to the Stephens Gulch Trailhead via Google Maps.

Hiking to the Summit of Grays Peak

Early starts are always advisable, especially on popular 14ers like Grays Peak. You’ll get parking and you will summit before noon to avoid afternoon thunderstorms. We hit the trail at 3am, hiking by headlamp.

It was a clear sky, and the Milky Way was visible to the naked eye (but sadly, not my iPhone). The trail up the valley is clearly marked and easy to follow, even by headlamp. You will likely see other flickering headlamps bobbing up and down the trail in the distance.

The first three miles of the trail head straight up the valley with only a few switchbacks. When you reach the end of the cirque, the grade gets steeper but well-engineered switchbacks keep the climb steady and manageable. We hit patches of snow and ice in early July, easily manageable without traction devices.

The real payoff for the Alpine start? The sunrise views. 

At 3.5 miles you reach the junction with the trail from the saddle. This is used for the return from Torrys Peak. Bear left at this junction, and continue following the switchbacks and occasional cairns to the summit.

The summit of Grays Peak is surrounded by a small stone wind shelter. The views? Epic.

[vr url=https://socalhiker.net//wp-content/uploads/2017/08/USNN3845.jpg view=360]

The return route is simple. Just retrace your steps.  Keep an eye out for mountain goats on the way. Can you find the mountain goat we saw on our return in the photo below?

Bonus Peak

Many people combine a trip up Grays Peak with Torreys Peak (14,267′). From Grays Peak, there is a faint trail down the ridgeline to the saddle, and up the ridge to Torreys Peak. Coming down, return to the saddle and take the connector back to the main trail down to the trailhead.

Adding Torreys Peak to the trip adds 0.9 miles to the total distance and another 894′ in vertical gain.

Grays Peak Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Grays Peak Tips & Resources

• Check out Michael Restivo’s blog post for this hike. He joined me to help scout the trail.
• Grays Peak is a Colorado Mountain Club Classic. For more details, check out Colorado Summit Hikes for Everyone (affiliate link).
• At the time of writing, no permits were required.
• Bring plenty of water, sun protection, and the other ten essentials. This hike is entirely above the tree-line.
• Keep an eye on the weather forecast, and plan to summit by noon. Afternoon lightning storms are a very real risk.
• DID YOU KNOW? Grays Peak and Torreys Peak are the only fourteeners that lie directly on the Continental Divide.

Silver Plume Weather Forecast

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The Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

Grays Peak is part of the Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge, a self-paced hiking challenge that takes you up six, iconic peaks–each one a bit higher and tougher.

It’s a challenge in itself, or great training for still bigger adventures. Learn more and sign-up here.

Originally hiked on July 2, 2017. Thanks to Michael Restivo for joining me. 

Birthday Peak is in the 12er family. At 12,730 feet, it sees less foot traffic than its taller cousins, which means you’ll have more solitude but still have epic views of the surrounding mountains in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness. This hike requires some additional navigation skills and includes a fun boulder scramble to the summit. If you’re lucky, you might enjoy the company of a mountain goat or two.

Trail Details

Summit: 12,730′
Distance: 10.3 miles
Time: 5-6 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,827 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Mid-June to early October
Download GPX

Getting to the Trailhead

This hike begins at the North Cottonwood Creek Trailhead, about 8.5 miles west of the rustic town of Buena Vista. Much of the road is gravel and dirt, but easily passable in a sedan during normal summer conditions. Get turn-by-turn driving directions using Google Maps. Parking is free and no permit is required.

Hiking to Birthday Peak

There is only one trail from the trailhead, and it begins with a gentle climb that parallels and occasionally crosses Cottonwood Creek, heading towards Kroenke Lake and Browns Pass.

At 2.7 miles in, an improvised log crossing of Horn Fork Creek was the sole challenge along the Kroenke Lake Trail. There was still a lot of snow melt, so the water was running strong and I was grateful to have brought my trekking poles.

At about the 4 mile mark, I reached the unnamed creek that led up towards Birthday Peak.

Rather than follow the Kroenke Trail as it continues across this tributary and continues alongside Cottonwood Creek, we tu, ned right to follow this unnamed creek up to the cirque below Birthday Peak. Some guide books describe the trail here as “intermittent”, but there was hardly a trace in late June. This off-trail section requires good map reading skills, but as long as you follow the little creek, you will do pretty well. Having the route and maps downloaded on GaiaGPS helped tremendously.

Climbing above the tree-line, the creek grew smaller and smaller, replaced by the occasional snow field.

Soon the saddle to the south of Birthday Peak was in clear view. There were some footpaths through the snow and rock that made provided a good target as I aimed for that saddle.

At the top of the saddle, straddling the Continental Divide, looking back on what I had just climbed.

From the saddle, make your way north along the ridge to Birthday Peak. The final 0.25 miles required boulder scrambling to reach the summit. It looks more intimidating than it really is. Take your time and test each rock before putting your full weight on it.

The summit of Birthday Peak itself has a grassy knoll spotted with wildflowers. The summit register is protected by a small rock cairn.

The views from Birthday Peak are sublime.

Heading back down was easier, and I knew where I had to aim. Picking your route is much simpler when you have your GPS track to follow, and can see the area from above.

Once you reconnect with the Kroenke Lake Trail, follow it downhill back to the trailhead.

Alternate Route

A longer, but easier route to navigate that some people prefer is to follow the Kroenke Lake Trail all the way to Browns Pass. From there, veer north and pick your way along the ridge-line, eventually reaching Birthday Peak. This adds some mileage but eliminates any bushwhacking.

Birthday Peak Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Birthday Peak Tips & Resources

• Birthday Peak is a Colorado Mountain Club Classic. For more details, check out Colorado Summit Hikes for Everyone (affiliate link).
• At the time of writing, no permits were required.
• Bring plenty of water and sun protection.
• Dogs are allowed, on leash.
• After the hike, grab lunch in downtown Buena Vista and stop in at The Trailhead–a great local outdoor store.

Buena Vista Weather Forecast

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The Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

Birthday Peak is part of the Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge, a self-paced hiking challenge that takes you up six, iconic peaks–each one a bit higher and tougher.

It’s a challenge in itself, or great training for still bigger adventures. Learn more and sign-up here.

Originally hiked on June 29, 2017.

Bergen Peak in the Jefferson County Open Space is a short 30 minutes from Denver. At an elevation of 9,708′ it provides a good view of Mount Evans to the west, as well as a good portion of the front range.

Trail Details

Summit: 9,708′
Distance: 9.6 miles
Time: 3-4 hours
Difficulty: Moderately Strenuous
Elevation gain: 1,890 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Mid-April to Late November
Download GPX

Getting to the Trailhead

The trail begins at the Elk Meadow Park trailhead on Stage Coach Boulevard, just north of the town of Evergreen (map). Most of the trail is within the Jefferson County Open Space, but a portion crosses into neighboring Bergen Peak Wildlife Area, where hunting is allowed in season. There is a restroom a short distance from the parking lot, but no other facilities on this trail. Bring your own water.

Hiking to Bergen Peak

The trail begins at the north end of the parking lot. At about 0.3 miles, take a left at the junction to follow the Meadow View Trail.

After another 0.6 miles, bear left again to take the Bergen Peak Trail. This climbs close to the ridge line before veering north.

Bear left again at the final trail junction with the Too Long Trail and the final mile to the summit.

You can take the same route back, or if you want to extend the hike, take the Too Long Trail back down toward the meadow and back to the beginning.

Bergen Peak Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Bergen Peak Tips & Resources

• Bergen Peak is a Colorado Mountain Club Classic. For more details, check out Colorado Summit Hikes for Everyone (affiliate link).
• Dogs are allowed, on leash. There’s also an off-leash dog park in a meadow south of the parking lot.
• The trail is shared with mountain bikes and equestrians. Hikers yield to horses and bikers yield to both, although it’s often more courteous to allow bikers to pass, especially when they’re climbing. We came across one couple biking and no horses on our hike.
• Get the latest on the trail at the official Elk Meadow Park website.
• After the hike, grab a burger at the Little Bear Saloon & Restaurant in Evergreen. The stage at this old-time western venue has hosted John Denver, Willie Nelson and many others.

Bergen Peak Weather Forecast

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The Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge

Bergen Peak is part of the Colorado Rockies Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge, a self-paced hiking challenge that takes you up six, iconic peaks–each one a bit higher and tougher.

It’s a challenge in itself, or great training for still bigger adventures. Learn more and sign-up here.

Originally hiked on June 27, 2017.

Thanks to Bryan Martin of Big City Mountaineers for joining me on this hike. 

The Confluence Overlook Trail in the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park takes you away from the crowds and through a maze of slick-rock canyons to the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers.

Trail Details

Distance: 11 miles
Time: 5-6 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 50 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Spring or Fall

As it turns out, there are no established campsites along the Confluence Overlook Trail, and only one permit is issued per day for an overnight group. Because there are no established campsites, you are required to camp off-trail on slick-rock, where your impact is minimized. In other words, I would have the whole place to myself. I told her to sign me up!

Getting There

This route is in the North Needles area of the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park. The nearest town is Moab–about 75 miles away. You’ll stop at the Needles District Visitors Center to pickup your permit–$30 at the time. Follow the main road from the visitor’s center to it’s end and you’ll be at the trailhead.

The Trail

This out-and-back route requires careful attention to cairns for navigation. The “trail” often crosses slickrock, climbs up and down improbable ledges that require some scrambling, and can be tricky to follow when you happen to miss a cairn. You could easily get lost back here if you aren’t mindful. It is a quiet, special place.

The trailhead begins just past the Slickrock Loop Trail–at the end of the paved road–and runs 5.5 miles to the edge of the canyon where you have a spectacular view of the confluence.

A large sign provides an overview of the trail and marks the start of the trail, which begins by winding down into a small canyon, following cairn to cairn. No sooner do you reach the bottom than you begin climbing, quite literally. Sections of this trail require careful hand-over-foot scrambling that make it unsuitable for small children or anyone squeamish about heights.

Climbing up the opposite side of the first canyon, you reach this window-like view over Canyonlands.

The trail continues in this same manner, climbing down, across, and up out of one canyon, then another. Sometimes you’ll have a ladder to assist you. Cairns are carefully placed along the entire route to help keep you on track. In many places, the trail is difficult to see without them.

At the 1.5 mile mark, you enter a sandy wash that you follow for almost a mile before climbing again over slickrock.

Climbing up and down can be tricky. Some of the sections are steep with rock-hopping and light scrambling required. At the 4 mile mark, you reach a meadow. The trail crosses a jeep trail and continues through the meadow for a mile, reaching a junction with Cyclone Canyon Trail. Keep right to rejoin the jeep trail, which you follow to the left (west) for 1/2 mile. At the end of the jeep trail you’ll find a rare bit of shade, a pit toilet and a picnic table. And you’re almost to the overlook.

Climbing the final 1/2 mile to the overlook the terrain began to fall away and the views open up.

And finally, you find yourself standing 1,000 feet above the Colorado River.

[vr url=https://socalhiker.net//wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Confluence-Overlook-360.jpg view=360]

Soak in the views and the energy, and prepare for the trip back. In my case, I was going to be sleeping out here. I had to  backtrack across the jeep trail and at least another 1/2 mile past that. As there are no established campsites (thankfully!),  you find a flat space atop the slickrock where you are less likely to cause harm to the fragile environment. I ended up hiking about nine miles to a section of slickrock, then climbed up and off trail. The views extended for miles in every direction.

Pitching my tent, boiling water for dinner (vegetable korma from Good To-Go; highly recommended). Watching the sun set, and the stars pop out.

[vr url=https://socalhiker.net//wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Camp-on-Slickrock-360.jpg view=360]

I awoke before sunrise, and the sky was already light. It was cold, but not freezing, and I sat in my sleeping bag and watched the light show, purple and pink, yellow and blue hues changing by the minute.

I fired up the Jetboil and heated water for Starbucks Via and drank it all in.

The 2-mile hike back to the trailhead went quickly in the cooler morning air with a lighter pack (with less food and water).

This was a short trip as far as backpack trips go, and could have easily been hiked as a day hike. But experiencing this place in the afternoon, evening, stillness of night, and the first light of morning, was well worth the time.

Confluence Overlook Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Confluence Overlook Trail Tips

• This trail has no shade to speak of. Wear sun protection and be mindful of the weather forecast.
• There is no water on the trail. I carried four liters, for both drinking and cooking, with another two gallons in my car.

More Canyonlands National Park Resources

• I carried and recommend the National Geographic Illustrated Map for Canyonlands National Park
• Canyonlands National Park – official website

Canyonlands National Park Weather Forecast

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DAY SEVEN on the High Sierra Trail –We decided to get up at 4:30 a.m. and begin hiking between 5:30 and 6 a.m. at sunrise. We had no interest in hiking in the dark and trying for the summit at sunrise – for our first time up, we wanted to see everything. We hit the trail at 5:40 a.m. We had heard the boy scouts leaving in groups earlier, and had seen many headlamps going up from midnight until we got up.

HST Day 7 Details

Distance: 9.8 miles
Time: 9 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,842 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: July-Sept

The first mile out of the tarn is actually quite steep and you gain a ton of altitude getting to the actual switchbacks that lead to Trail Crest. Once up that steep section, the Hitchcock Lakes come into clear view.

There are essentially seven long switchbacks that take you up the face of the Sierra to Trail Crest–and from the tarn at 11,600 to Trail Crest at 13,500 is just those long rocky switchbacks. All of it–like the rest of the High Sierra Trail–is incredibly well engineered – in fact, we would often stop and look down and around and just think wow–how did they build this? Again, time to watch that documentary video again.

As we climbed, we passed two of the three groups of boy scouts who were taking their time and resting quite a bit. How good did that make our old bones feel? We were killing it!

When we arrived at Trail Crest, there were already 20 or so backpacks lined up from those who had gone for sunrise or early ascents. We dropped our packs and pulled out a day pack and loaded it up with lunch, jackets and water.

Then it was time to take on the ridge – 1.9 miles that would test my fear of heights even more than the Hamilton Gorge did. We took it slow and steady, and I didn’t spend too much time hanging out in the “windows” – those spots on the trail between jagged peaks where you can see straight down on both sides! My wife had no pack, I had the day pack – boy did we feel like Supermen!

As the hut at the top of Whitney came into view, we encountered a snow field. The trail had been mostly plowed down but it was slippery and we used caution – and had to climb over some boulders in a few spots to avoid ice. After the snowfield, we followed the trail east to the summit.

We made the summit in 3 hours 20 minutes from the tarn at Guitar Lake, which I was very satisfied with for our first time. The wind was calm, the weather warm, and we never had more than a long sleeve shirt on the entire time at the summit. The rest day at 11,600 feet had empowered us and the ascent was really pretty easy – no problem at all. Great views, great photos, signed the book – mission accomplished.

After about 25 mins on the top, we headed back down. I thought the ridge going down might impact my heights fears more, but in fact it was quite easy and we got back to Trail Crest quickly.

We strapped back into our heavy loads and did the quick climb up to the other side for our first trip down the infamous 99 switchbacks. Like the Kern River descent a few days earlier, going down is just not our favorite gig – and this one with heavy packs is a long slog.

We thought we might stay at Trail Camp, but the things we had read about it were sort of correct. The water source looked sketchy and there were a lot of people and it was sort of loud and not especially pretty. We opted to keep going down a few more miles to Outpost Camp.

That last two or three miles from Trail Camp to Outpost Camp was hard on the legs – I won’t lie. My wife was getting pretty miserable – and the sight of Outpost Camp was a welcome one. It’s a really nice spot and the waterfall was going full tilt. We found a spot, pitched our tent – and just sat and relaxed with a dose of ibuprofen and a cold drink!

This would be our last night in the forest with just a short walk out to Whitney Portal the next day.

High Sierra Trail: Guitar Lake to Mt Whitney and Outpost Camp
Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Next up?

• Continue to Day 8 on the High Sierra Trail, our final day on the High Sierra Trail.
• Go back to Day 6 on the High Sierra Trail. 
• New to the High Sierra Trail? Get the big picture with our HST overview.
• Got questions about the High Sierra Trail? Join our HST discussion forum.

DAY FIVE on the High Sierra Trail

The 9+ mile climb from Junction Meadow to Crabtree is really gorgeous! All five of us hiked together, which was the first day my wife and I had company on our hiking day. It was fun to have one day to hike as a group.

HST Day 5 Details

Distance: 10 miles
Time: 5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 3,795 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: July-Sept.

It’s a gorgeous hike up the canyon to the East, with the Kaweah’s and the Great Western Divide to the West. It was great to look back and see where we had come from and what we had accomplished over the past 45 miles.

Once at Wallace Creek, we immediately saw more people than we had seen in the previous five days, as we were now sharing the HST with the John Muir Trail. The solitude was gone, but it was sort of fun to meet some new people.

From Wallace Creek, you climb up to about 10,900 feet – the highest we had been so far – before descending a bit into the Crabtree Meadow and Crabtree Ranger Station area. We even passed a man-made rock marker that said “200” – denoting mile 200 of the JMT.

Crabtree is a huge meadow – known to be a major camping spot for thru-hikers on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). Of course, being mid-July most of the PCTers were long gone – but there still ended up being about twelve tents there by dark. There’s a beautiful creek that runs past it – and because we arrived early, it was a great place to hang out.

Most hikers on the High Sierra Trail will go on to Guitar Lake, and then summit Whitney the next day. We decided to turn what could be a six-day trip into an eight-day trip by relaxing at Crabtree all afternoon and following up with another easy day to Guitar Lake the next day. My wife and I love “camping” – so we felt no reason to rush over the Eastern Sierra with all this beauty surrounding us and a Saturday-to-Saturday schedule. We had hiked hard the first three days on a six-day completion schedule so we could ‘earn’ these wonderful camping days – and now we were enjoying the payoff!

We lunched by the creek with some JMTers and then walked up to the Crabtree Ranger Station to introduce ourselves to the ranger. Nice guy again – everyone in Sequoia NP is great!

We crashed early after dark and didn’t hurry the next morning as we only had about three miles and change to Guitar Lake for another easy day with rest before climbing Mt Whitney.

High Sierra Trail:  Junction Meadow to Crabtree Meadow
Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Next up?

• Continue to Day 6 on the High Sierra Trail, hiking from Crabtree Meadow to Guitar Lake.
• Go back to Day 4 on the High Sierra Trail. 
• New to the High Sierra Trail? Get the big picture with our HST overview.
• Got questions about the High Sierra Trail? Join our HST discussion forum.

DAY FOUR on the High Sierra Trail we hiked straight north up the Kern River – a gorgeous 10 mile, 2,000 vertical foot,  gentle-but-steady ascent from 6,000 feet to 8,000 feet.

HST Day 4 Details

Distance: 10 miles
Time: 4-6 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,169 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: July-Sept.

Heading up the east side about two miles up the trail you arrive at Kern Hot Springs – an actual hot spring with a concrete tub that allows for 110-120 degree bathing! When we arrived early morning, the campground was pretty full with a big group of fly fishermen. The tub was occupied and there was a waiting list – so no hot bath today. Kevin and his gang stopped there later and said it was marvelous!

The hike up the Kern valley was gorgeous, varying from rocks and sand to heavy ferns and big trees. As we got higher and closer to Junction Meadow, there were a number of challenging stream crossings. I slipped and got a shoe wet on one, and then we both had to cross with shoes on during another deep and fast one. Good thing it was a warm day, where we could dry the shoes out later at Junction Meadow. We always took the ‘better safe than sorry’ approach with stream crossings. If it looks hairy, plow straight through!

We arrived at Junction Meadow about 1:30 p.m., and the campground sits right on the junction of the Kern River and another stream (Wright Creek I think). Anyway, gorgeous spot – we even had a solo hiker come in and do some fly fishing there. The early arrival gave us a chance to do some clothes washing (4-day stink was getting noticeable) and dry out our shoes.

Kevin, Amber and Bart arrived around 4:30.  We made a fire, ate dinner together and entertained visiting deer. The sound of the Kern was a great way to doze off later that night.

Spending the day hiking up the Kern River valley was a great reminder of how big and important that river is – and how much water it pushes through the park to eventually become Lake Isabella and hydrate a big chunk of California.

Back at 8,000 feet, we prepared to do another almost 3,000 feet of climbing and join the John Muir Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail the next day.

High Sierra Trail:  Upper Funston Meadow to Junction Meadow
Trail Map & Elevation Profile

Next up?

• Continue to Day 5 on the High Sierra Trail, hiking from Junction Meadow to Crabtree Meadow.
• Go back to Day 3 on the High Sierra Trail. 
• New to the High Sierra Trail? Get the big picture with our HST overview.
• Got questions about the High Sierra Trail? Join our HST discussion forum.

The beautiful Santa Anita Loop

Trail Details

Distance: 9.6 miles
Time: 5 hours
Difficulty: Moderately strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,100 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: October to June
Download the GPX

Getting to the Trailhead

This hike begins at Chantry Flats — a popular and especially crowded spot on weekends. If you’re here on the weekend, get here early or you’ll end up parking down the road and extending your hike even further. Get directions on Google Maps. To park in the area, you’ll either need an Adventure Pass or you can park at the Adams Pack Station for a fee. The pack station also sells Adventure Passes. If you don’t have one, get one. It’s worth avoiding a ticket.

The Santa Anita Canyon Loop

The trailhead begins on the downhill side of the road near the entrance to the Chantry Flats parking lot. The first half mile is paved and often crowded with families and children looking for an escape from the city. You might even see a few serious hikers. Don’t let the crowds dissuade you! This trail is worth hiking.

When you reach the bottom, you’ll cross a steel-and-wood bridge, then take the Gabrielino Trail toward Sturtevant Camp. Along the way, you’ll criss-cross the creek a number of times. It’s a fun rock-hopping exercise, but if you’re feeling insecure, use your trekking poles for added support and balance.

Sturtevant Falls are worth visiting, although it’s a short out-and-back on a spur trail to reach them. This 50-foot waterfall can be quite beautiful after the winter rainstorms roll through.

You may see some people climbing the scree up the north side of the canyon to “shortcut” back to the trail. Don’t do it. It’s a short hike back to the actual trail junction, and this accelerates erosion and damages the hillside next to the waterfall.

Instead, retrace your steps back to the Gabrielino Trail junction. You can go either way here (they both end up at the same place) but stick to the right. It follows the creek more closely and is much more beautiful. The high trail is mainly for the pack mules.

After four miles, you’ll reach a sign pointing to the Sturtevant Camp. Remember that this is private, so be respectful of the guests. On the day we hiked here, no one was staying there, so we explored a bit and even tried out the giant swing.

Back on the trail, and just across the creek from Sturtevant Camp is the junction with the Zion Trail — the next leg of this loop.

The Zion Trail climbs 1.25 miles to the summit of Mt. Zion, then descends on the other side of the ridge to Hoegee Trail Camp and Winter Creek. There was one downed tree we had to clamber over, but otherwise the trail was well-maintained and easy to follow. Most of the route to the summit was shaded.

The Zion Trail was built by Wilbur Sturtevant back in 1896 to provide direct access to his resort. This was the primary route to Sturtevant Camp until 1916 when the canyon trail was constructed. During the 1960’s the trail fell into disrepair, became overgrown and impassable. It was reopened in 1985 thanks to the efforts of the Sierra Club and local volunteers to rebuilt the trail.

View from Mt. Zion

The trail down to Hoegees Trail Camp descends the south-facing ridge to Winter Creek. This section of the trail had several sections with direct sun exposure. It’s fascinating to note the change in plant life — and in temperature! It was about 10 degrees warmer in the sun than in the shady canyons.

At Hoegees, you have the option of taking the Upper or Lower Winter Creek Trail. We opted to follow the Lower Winter Creek Trail (and I recommend you do the same). This follows a more scenic route along Winter Creek with numerous water crossings, the cool shade of the Alders and the sounds of gurgling water cascading down the canyon.

Several places along the way you’ll pass cabins of various sizes and conditions. These cabins are all privately owned and on land leased from the Forest Service. They were built between 1907 and 1936, and while at one time there were hundreds dotting the canyons, today only about 80 remain. They have no electricity or utility services, and everything must be either hand-carried or brought in by mule train, as they have been for 100 years.

Finally you’ll reach the bridge that you crossed near the beginning of your hike. It’s just half a mile uphill on the paved road back to Chantry Flats. And yes, it’s normal for it to feel longer going up than when you went down it this morning.

Santa Anita Canyon Loop Trail Map

Santa Anita Loop Tips

• When Zion Trail reaches the Winter Creek Junction, you can optionally take the Upper Winter Creek Trail back to Chantry Flats. This adds one mile to the total distance, but comes down at the parking lot rather than descending all the way to the canyon (with the half mile climb up the paved road to the lot). I’ve done both routes, and in spite of the final uphill climb, I still prefer the scenery of Lower Winter Creek Trail.
• If you’re feeling ambitious and want a longer, more challenging hike, you can take the Sturtevant trail at the junction to Mt. Zion and continue your climb up the canyon to Mt. Wilson. I’ve got a full guide to that route here: Chantry Flats to Mt. Wilson. It happens to be the first of the SoCal Hiker Six-Pack of Peaks.
• The Chantry Flat Road is gated. The gate is open from 6am to 8pm, so plan accordingly.

More Chantry Flats Resources

• Adams Pack Station – They sell Adventure Passes, but also offer some parking on their own lot for about $10. They have a market that sells drinks and food, and sometimes on the weekends they have a grill outside cooking up burgers. They also have a mule pack service that can haul gear and supplies up to your campsite or cabin. Many of the small, privately owned cabins in these canyons use their service to lug supplies up.
• Staying at Camp Sturtevant – The camp was established in 1893 by Wilbur Sturtevant. Today, it’s owned by the Methodist Church, but managed by the Adams Pack Station. You can reserve cabins at Camp Sturtevant for your personal or family retreat, or for a group outing.
• GPS User? Download the GPX file.

Chantry Flats Weather Forecast

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Special thanks to my hiking partners Ric, Jason and Bruce from the Muir Project. Great hiking with you! 

The sky was a deep, cloudless blue. The only sounds came from the occasional wind through the sparse trees and the crunching of my boots on the trail. I had just climbed nearly 3,000 vertical feet to the summit of Mt. Baden-Powell (9,406′) — one of the highest mountains in the San Gabriel mountains. The stunning 360° views made those 40 switchbacks worth climbing.

Trail Details

Summit: 9,406′
Distance: 8.7 miles total
Time: 4 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,900 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: June-October
Download the GPX

Getting to the Vincent Gap Trailhead

Vincent Gap is a popular trailhead a few miles outside of Wrightwood on Highway 2. There is plenty of parking and there are pit toilets. The Vincent Gap is on the backside of the mountains from the LA basin, so it takes some time to get there, but it’s worth it. Get your driving directions.

Vincent Gap to Mt. Baden-Powell Trail

The trail begins at the west end of the parking lot, and immediately begins a relentless ascent up the north ridge to the summit. You are actually hiking a section of the Pacific Crest Trail — the 2,600 mile trail from Mexico to Canada.

The trail follows a well-engineered series of switchbacks through shaded forest. And just at the moment when you think “Wow, I could use a breather,” this bench appears.

As you continue climbing the forty switchbacks, you’ll see a spur trail that leads 200 yards east to the dribbling pipe known as Lamel Spring.

Hiking this trail you can watch the climate zone change as you gain elevation. The thick forest thins out, and closer to the summit are replaced by weathered and twisted limber pines.

When you reach this ridge line, you’re almost to the summit. The trail here skirts the top of the ridge, with steep slopes in both directions. When covered with ice and snow, this can be particularly treacherous, as you can imagine.

On the far end of the ridge, but before the final climb to the summit you’ll see the gnarled and twisted roots of the Wally Waldron tree. This 1,500 year old limber pine is said to be the oldest in the San Gabriel mountains, and named for a noted Boy Scout leader and volunteer.

One last push and the rounded summit of Mt. Baden-Powell comes into view. When you see the monument, you have arrived.

There summit itself is quite exposed, but there are a few clusters of trees where you’ll find shade and a great spot for a lunch break. When you’ve had your fill of the views, retrace your steps to Vincent Gap.

Hiking Mt Baden-Powell is a challenging hike, a great workout with rewarding views. Hike this!

Mt. Baden-Powell Trail Map

PRO TIP: I track all my hikes using GaiaGPS. It’s the best solution for staying on the right trail, it works even when you don’t have cell service, and there are versions for iOS and Android. The app is free, and you can get a discounted membership for maps here.

Photo Gallery

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All of these photos were from our hike on July 5, 2014.

Mt. Baden-Powell Tips

• This trail can be hot. We hiked this on a moderately warm day, but started early. By afternoon, I was glad that we were headed downhill and not up.
• Bring the ten essentials, and carry 2-3 liters of water. I carried 3 liters and drank it all by the time we finished.

More Mt. Baden-Powell Resources

• GPS user? Download the GPX file.
• After the hike, eat at the Grizzly Cafe in Wrightwood

Mt. Baden-Powell Video Fly-by

Wrightwood Weather Forecast

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Today was our fourth and final day on the Lost Coast Trail. The last day of any backpacking trip is always bittersweet. We looked forward to sleeping in a bed and eating a meal that wasn’t rehydrated. Yet we want to linger and savor the sense of peace and connectedness we’ve enjoyed on the trail.

Trail Details

Distance: 10 miles
Time: 5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 75 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Year-round

Our tide chart told us that high tide peaked at 7:45am. We broke camp in the morning mist and headed south down Miller Flat. One mile south of Big Flat Creek, the terrace ends and the trail heads down to the beach. We arrived a bit early, and the surf still lapped the rock outcrops. We dropped our packs and enjoyed the smell of the salt air and the sound of the waves crashing. The cobbled beach stones chattered as the surf pushed and pulled them down the beach.

Soon we were joined by two other groups of backpackers. The first — an older group of four brothers and their father; the second a group of three twenty-somethings — one hiking barefoot. One by one each group started back down the Lost Coast as the tide began to recede. We unconsciously created space between each party, so we still had the sense of having the trail mostly to ourselves.

The entire Lost Coast Trail is beautiful and surprisingly diverse. But this 4.5 mile section from the south end of Miller Flat to Gitchell Creek may have been my favorite section of the trail. You walk on the beach. The mountains and the forest drop precipitously down to the beach itself. At high tide, the surf meets the forest.

The close proximity of thick forested hills provides hiding spots for the deer, bear and other creatures whose prints you will often see in the sand. It’s odd to think of a bear or a deer on the beach, but here its quite normal. And who can blame them!? The scenery is absolutely breathtaking.

Along this section are two popular camp areas at Shipman Creek and Buck Creek. These often fill up, which was one reason we stayed at Miller Flat.

The next mile beyond Gitchell Creek shows signs of signifcant erosion — a reminder that the sea is continually reshaping the coastline.

At mile 8.2 there are two significant boulders on the beach. When you reach these, you’re in the home stretch. Beyond these rocks the beach widens, and on a clear day you can pick out a few homes on the bluffs of Shelter Cove two miles away.

The Black Sands Beach trailhead parking is on a bluff between Telegraph and Humboldt Creeks. Continue past Telegraph Creek, then head up the north side of Humboldt Creek and you’ll see the walkway.

Lost Coast Trail: Day Four Trail Map

Day Four on the Lost Coast: Photo Gallery

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After the Hike

We stowed our gear and I put on a fresh shirt that I left in the car, then headed for lunch in Shelter Cove. From there, we drove the long, windy road back to the 101 and turned south. Our destination? A civilized finish to the trip with a stay at the Glendeven Inn in Mendocino. Highly recommended.

Shelter Cove Weather Forecast

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The Lost Coast Trail

Overview of the Lost Coast Trail

• Day 1: Mattole Beach to Sea Lion Gulch
• Day 2: Sea Lion Gulch to Spanish Flat
• Day 3: Spanish Flat to Miller Flat
• Day 4: Big Flat to Shelter Cove – You are here

The Mount Wilson Trail was built in 1864 by Benjamin “Don Benito” Wilson. He had planned to use it to bring down timber for his ranch. Not much timber was cut, and the trail was repurposed to construct the first Mt. Wilson Observatory, established by Harvard College in 1889. Hiking up this trail you can feel the history.

Trail Details

Distance: 10.2 miles
Time: 6 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 3,700 ft
Dogs: yes
When to go: Year-round

Getting to the Mount Wilson Trail

The trail itself begins in a quiet residential neighborhood. There is a good amount of free street parking, but bear in mind that this is reserved for residents only at night.

Park on the street near the intersection of E. Mira Monte Avenue and Mount Wilson Trail. You’ll see signs for The Richardson House and Lizzie’s Trail Inn — which also serves as a small museum. If you’re lucky, it might be open!

The Mount Wilson Trail

Head up Mount Wilson Trail, which begins as a paved residential road. You soon see the official trailhead splitting off to the left. This out-and-back trail is pretty easy to follow; if you’re heading uphill, you’re doing it right.

At the 1.25 mile mark we reached the junction with First Water — so named because it’s the first place where you can get water. There is a junction here that leads down a short spur trail to the creek, where there is in fact water running most of the time. I wouldn’t rely on this as a water source. As with all my day hikes, I brought enough water to fuel me for the entire day — three liters in this case.

The trail continues to climb up the Little Santa Anita Canyon, and soon the views stretch out over the LA basin. At 3.25 miles we arrived at Orchard Camp. This was roughly the halfway point up to the summit of Mt. Wilson, earning it the nickname of the Halfway House.

At one time there were a number of cabins and buildings here to support the construction of the Mt. Wilson Observatory. Today all that remains are some concrete steps and fragments of the foundations. But it’s still a good place to take a snack break and catch your breath.

The climate changed as we climbed, with more pine trees covering the rugged slopes.

Finally at the 5.1 mile mark, we reached what is often referred to as The Bench. Why? Because as you reach the junction at Manzanita Ridge, you practically hike straight into an actual bench. From this junction it’s another 2.4 miles to the summit of Mt. Wilson.

The views here are fantastic. It was a beautiful, clear day and we could easily see the Pacific Ocean and Catalina Island many miles away.

Although the most challenging vertical gain was behind me, this was my turnaround point. The shorter winter days meant that if I wanted to be sure to return to my Xterra before dusk, I’d head back now. Keep in mind the time — know when it gets dark, and plan a turn around time.

As you will see in the elevation profile below, this out-and-back hike is mainly uphill all the way to this point. I was glad to have the climbing out of the way, and “coasted” downhill, retracing my steps down the Mt. Wilson Trail back to the trailhead.

Mount Wilson Trail to Manzanita Ridge Map

Photo Gallery

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Mt. Wilson Trail Tips

• Bring plenty of water. This can be a dry, hot trail especially in the summer. I carried 3 liters of water and had some (but not much) left over at the end of the hike.
• Calculate your turnaround time. Know when it gets dark, and when you want to get back to the trailhead. Figure out how much time you have to hike, divide it in half. You now know your turnaround time. If you don’t make it as far as you hoped, don’t sweat it. The mountain will still be there next time.
• Carry the 10 Essentials. Remember to bring layers. It can (and does) snow on Mt. Wilson in the winter!
• No special permits are required to hike this trail, but always let someone know where you are going and when you expect to return.

Mt. Wilson Trail Resources

• Mt. Wilson via Chantry Flats – An alternate 14 mile loop trail up to the summit of Mt. Wilson

Sierra Madre Weather Forecast

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Suburban trails often make great mid-week hikes. They are usually local and fairly short, making them well-suited for a quick after-work hike. A longer loop hike in-town is almost unheard of. Until now. 

Trail Details

Distance: 10.6 miles
Time: 4 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,500 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Year-round

The Trail

The loop begins near the eastern end of Christianitos Road in San Clemente (map). We parked on the street, but pay attention to the street signs.  At the end of the street we picked up the Christianitos Trail, heading north. 

The trail is a broad fire road with homes on your left and undeveloped open space on your right. The trail is mixed used, and there were a few mountain bikers, runners and walkers out enjoying the quiet trail.

At the 1.5 mile mark, we skirted the cul-de-sac of Via Belleza, then rounded a large water tank. From here, we followed a ridge along one of the most scenic and remote sections of the trail — where I took the photo at the beginning of this story.

There is another narrow ridge that runs west from the Christianitos Trail. As you can see here, there is a small cave on the south-facing side of the ridge.

At the 2.4 mile mark, we reached Avenida Talega. From here, we climbed up a curving, paved access road toward a trio of water tanks.

At the 3.0 mile mark, we headed due west on the Talega Trail. After another 0.5 miles, we reached the highpoint of this trail — about 50 feet shy of 1000′ above sea level, with views to the Pacific Ocean just a few miles away.

At 5.7 miles, the Talega Trail comes to a junction with the Forster Ridgeline Trail and the Prima Deshecha Trail. Forster Ridgeline heads towards Camino de los Mares and one of my favorite trails — one I call the Roller Coaster Ridge. But for this loop, we headed down the hill, south on the Prima Deshecha Trail.

This trail weaves along high voltage powerlines, which I really didn’t like. It would be fine for a trail run, but it wasn’t the most pleasant hiking environment. You could hear the buzzing from the power lines overhead. And then I ran across this creepy critter poking out one of the cracks in the ground.

At the 6.5 mile mark, the trail met up with Calle Saluda. It runs parallel with the street toward the west. We crossed Calle Saluda at the intersection with Avenida La Pata, then picked up the trail again.

At this point, the trail is more of a suburban greenbelt path than a true hiking trail. Some portions are dirt fire roads; others paved bike paths. At least we weren’t so close to the power lines.

At 7.25 miles, the trail passed under Avenida Hermosa, continuing toward Avenida Pico. Half a mile later we were at the bottom of the valley, and headed to the left to follow what was now a bike path up the hill towards the housing development looming above us. Here the trail becomes a pleasant suburban walk along the Talega development and parallel to Avenida Pico.

At this point we had a choice: we could either continue along the sidewalk along Avenida Pico back to the beginning, or take the longer and slightly more “wild” route. We opted for wild.

At the 8.5 mile mark, we cross Avenida Pico at Avenida Hermosa, and doubled back toward the coast. The Prima Deshecha Trail actually winds around a small industrial complex with offices and skirts the Bella Collina Golf Club.

At 10.5 miles we reached Avenida Pico (again), crossing and following the trail around the southeast side of an apartment complex. Finally, we were back where we started. 

Would I hike this route again? Probably not. It’s an okay hike, but is well suited as a long trail run. For me, I would rather drive a bit further for a long hike and have more of a wilderness experience. What I would do instead is the Christianitos Trail on the eastern edge of this loop from Avenida Pico to Avenida Talega as an out-and-back route. This would make for a 4.7 mile hike with some of the best scenery from this loop.

Got a better modification? Let me know in the comments!

Christianitos Trail to Prima Deshecha Trail Map

Photo Gallery

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Tour de Talega Tips

• Even though this is a suburban hike, bring plenty of water. There are some places where you can “hike out” to a market, but better to be prepared.
• Don’t hike it — run it! For me, this was too close to suburbia to spend hiking, but it would make a great training run. If you’re into trail running or training for a half- or full marathon, this could make a great long run option.
• What could make it worthwhile? Earning a cold beer from nearby Left Coast Brewery. It’s close enough that you could take a short detour there.

San Clemente Weather Forecast

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Day 19 on the John Muir Trail…

We awoke early, determined to get a jump on Glen Pass (11, 970ft.). Last night we camped at 10,600ft. just above Upper Rae Lake and were looking forward to reaching the pass early before it got too warm.

John Muir Trail Day 19

Distance: 9 miles
Cumulative Distance: 187 miles
Total Ascent: 3,212 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 50,380 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 3 and 2

This morning I awoke before sunrise. Our camp was very close to the trail, and even in the darkness, there were hikers headed up toward the pass, their headlights bobbing up and down with each stride. That was not our definition of early. We called it sheer madness.

In all seriousness, there are some people who like to wake up, pack up and start hiking immediately to help warm their body. After they have hiked for one or two miles, they stop and cook breakfast. It works for them, and it maybe it would work for you.

Today we got up and were on the trail before the sun hit our campsite, and that was early enough for us.

Being above the tree line, we knew there would be lots of exposure, and it helped to get the pass out of the way early. And there was quite a crowd already at the top of Glen Pass.

We climbed about 1,500 feet in 1.5 miles. Not a bad warm-up. Looking north from Glen Pass, we were treated to a tremendous view of where we had been.

From Glen Pass, we headed south and down towards Vidette Meadows. Our goal was to camp at Upper Vidette Meadows, positioning us well for Forester Pass tomorrow.

As we descended, we saw more and more smoke in the air from a wildfire to the west. It was disconcerting for two reasons. First, we didn’t know how far away the fire was, or if it threatened any part of the John Muir Trail further south, posing danger to us and requiring a change of plans. Second, Joan suffers from asthma, and smoke didn’t help matters. We were concerned, but pressed forward.

Whenever we passed other hikers, we’d enquire about the wildfire and try to glean some knowledge about where it was, and whether it posed danger to us. Information is limited on the trail. There is no cell coverage. There is no Internet. But the reports we heard confirmed that the fire was far enough west that it posed no eminent threat.

We paused near the junction to Bullfrog Lake to refill our water bottles and eat lunch. It was good to be in the shade, and the mosquitos weren’t even too bad.

On our way down to Bubbs Creek, we ran into a couple who was section hiking the PCT. Last summer, they hiked the entire Oregon section. This year, they were tackling the section that more or less tracks along the JMT, though they started at the southern end of the Sierras and were headed north-bound. They were happily feasting on cheese and crackers, which they had rummaged from a bear box in Lower Vidette Meadows. “Look for it! There’s still some good stuff left in there…” they promised. Visions of a delectable backcountry smorgasbord danced in our heads as we headed down the trail.

One of the questions that I’m often asked about is how easy (or difficult) it is to follow the John Muir Trail. For the most part, the trail is very easy to follow and extremely well marked. However, not all junctions identify which direction the JMT follows, so you still need a good set of maps and basic navigation skills.

On this section of the JMT, there are an unusually high number of trail junctions. We made a point of sticking together and checking the map at each to ensure we were headed in the right direction. We didn’t want another Cloud’s Rest detour.

We made our way to Lower Vidette Meadows, and sure enough, we found the bear box with a cache of leftover foodstuffs. We were excited to rummage through this left-behind food. We salvaged some tea, some ramen and a few other goodies. There was cheese, but it looked very suspect. Not exactly the smorgasbord we imagined, but still a nice bonus.

Hiker Trash

There’s an old hiking joke that goes something like this…

“What’s the difference between a backpacker and a homeless person?” The answer? Goretex.

As we excitedly rummaged through days-old food left in a bear box, I realized were weren’t far off from “dumpster diving.” It’s all a matter of perspective.

We followed Bubbs Creek up the valley, climbing 1,300 feet in just over three miles. The trees were growing sparse when we found a great established campsite for the night.

Trail Map: Rae Lakes to Glen Pass to Upper Vidette Meadow

JMT Day 19 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we climb Forester Pass — over 13,000 feet high!

Originally hiked on August 14, 2010.

Day 18 on the John Muir Trail…

Yesterday we discussed our plans for today’s hike. We had originally planned to hike over Glen Pass to Vidette Meadow, but decided to modify the itinerary to have an easier day and leave us just below Glen Pass. Even with the modification, we would meet our original exit date to Whitney Portal.

John Muir Trail Day 18

Distance: 8.5 miles
Cumulative Distance: 178 miles
Total Ascent: 2,434 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 47,168 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 3 and 2

On the other side, we paused for our first break, well aware that the remainder of our hike we would climb over 2,400 feet.

It was a warm, dry day, and the forest thinned as we climbed.  At the 5.8 mile mark, we stopped at Dollar Lake (10,200ft.). There were some beautiful shady spots, so we stopped and actually cooked a dinner for lunch — a first for us.

After a leisurely lakeside meal, we headed back up the JMT towards the Rae Lakes. This chain of three lakes are renown for their beauty, and the Rae Lakes Loop is a popular backpacking route in Kings Canyon National Park.

In the spirit of John Muir, we sauntered along the east shore of the lakes, stopping at the ranger station to check for word on Hari and Jeffrey. They outlined their plans for the remaining days, and were actually picking up additional miles with the goal of exiting at Whitney Portal one or even two days early. We added our plans, so the rangers would be aware, and continued on.

We paused to say hello to Steady, a north-bound Pacific Crest Trail thru-hiker from Australia. He and his wife — Slow — had no prior backpacking experience. They had seen a documentary about the PCT and decided it looked an an adventure worth doing. They bought two tickets to San Diego, stopped at REI to buy equipment, and were on the trail a few days later. Slow and Steady had covered a big section of the PCT already, and did quite well in spite of their lack of experience. After 3-1/2 months on the trail, they had become experts.

As we headed past the second lake, we saw two 8-point bucks grazing nearby, unfazed by our presence.

But the best was yet to come, as the John Muir Trail threads between the second and third Rae Lakes, we had stunning views of the dome named The Painted Lady. Why is it called this? This photo says it all.

At the far side of the Rae Lakes, we found a campsite for the night.

In the end, we had logged a mere 8.5 miles. It was an easy day, but we were well positioned to tackle Glen Pass tomorrow.

Flexibility

Having a plan is essential. Our planning prepared us physically and mentally for the rigors of the JMT. But having flexibility is also essential. We took a hard look at our itinerary and decided it would be worth having a lighter day today. Giving our bodies a chance to rest, and camping close to Glen Pass, we could make up the mileage over the next four days.

Plan, but allow flexibility.

Trail Map: Woods Creek to Rae Lakes

JMT Day 18 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we head to over Glen Pass to Vidette Meadow.

Originally hiked on August 13, 2010.

Day 12 on the John Muir Trail…

John Muir Trail Day 12

Distance: 8.45 miles
Cumulative Distance: 113.1 miles
Total Ascent: 1,292 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 29,435 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 8 and 7

Carrying that 20 lbs. won’t be the biggest challenge. Our bodies have grown accustomed to the rigors of the life on the trail. We’ve got our “trail legs.” The real challenge will be getting 10 days of food to fit inside the mandatory bear canisters.

Waking up in Rosemarie Meadow was a beautiful start to the day. The sun glistened on the lazy creek. Frost coated the grass.

We warmed up with scrambled eggs (powdered, and not half bad), spiced up with slices of a beef stick and some olive oil;  and our morning coffee (Starbucks Via).

We warmed up quickly as we began to climb Seldon Pass, in what would become our pattern for the days ahead — climb a pass, descend, camp. Rinse and repeat.

En route to the pass the JMT took us by the crystal-clear waters of Marie Lake. It never ceases to amaze me how clear and beautiful these lakes are. We could easily pick out the trout swimming in the water.

We regrouped at Seldon Pass, breaking for a snack (Clif Bar, anyone?) and snapping the requisite photos.

Just below the pass, we paused for yet another photo opportunity at Heart Lake. Yes, that is Joan and I standing in the “V” of the heart-shaped lake. The full view of the lake is at the top of this post.

Descending from Heart Lake, we followed the babbling water of Sallie Keyes Creek, which led to none other that the twin Sallie Keyes Lakes. These scenic lakes sit side by side, and the JMT travels right between them on a narrow band of forest. We stopped for lunch, but not for long — the mosquitos were also hungry.

Finally we began to descend the steep canyon walls through a series of switchbacks. At the 7.6 mile mark, we reached a junction that took us off the JMT and down towards Muir Trail Ranch.

At Muir Trail Ranch, we checked in and they started searching for our resupply packages. Due to the size, we had shipped three 5-gallon buckets. While we waited, we rummaged through the backpacker’s buckets — a set of buckets with “extra” stuff donated to anyone who needs it. We were like kids in a candy shop.

Bad News

They found one of the three buckets — with the supplies for Joan and I. But Hari and Jeffrey’s buckets were nowhere to be found. They double- and triple-checked the storage shed. Nothing in their inventory log, although they could see that we had paid for them. We waited for the tractor to delivery today’s shipment, but it wasn’t on there. We were getting worried.

The wonderful folks at MTR felt bad for this, and promised it had never happened before. They invited us to join them for dinner tonight and breakfast in the morning, and we were welcome to scrounge through the backpacker’s cache for anything we needed.

Joan took advantage of their offer to use the hot baths, and we enjoyed an amazing dinner alongside their regular guests. Jeffrey and Hari were able to pick through the extra supplies and piece together meals for the remainder of the trip.

Now the only challenge remaining was getting it all in our bear canisters.

We did not.

We ended up with some stuff that we threw into a bear bag and hung for the night. We chose the non-smelly, non-essentials, and hoped for the best.

Learning to Expect the Unexpected

We were  disappointed when our buckets didn’t turn up at MTR. Fortunately, there was more than enough food in the backpacker’s cache that we were able to do just fine.

With any big hike like the JMT, it’s important to remember that things will not go as planned. Something will go wrong, somewhere along the way. It’s important to keep a good attitude and be flexible.

Trail Map: Rosemarie Meadow to Muir Trail Ranch

JMT Day 12 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we head from Muir Trail Ranch to McClure Meadow.

Originally hiked on August 8, 2010.

Day 7 on the John Muir Trail…

John Muir Trail Day 7

Distance: 6.5 miles
Cumulative Distance: 70.3 miles
Total Ascent: 2,067 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 19,456 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 10 and 9

As we broke camp, we said goodbye to our new friend and gracious campsite host Chris Ryerson. He was on a 45-day walkabout in the High Sierras. No specific agenda or route, just hiking up and down and over and about from one mountain to the next. We were grateful that he offered to share his campsite with us, and we still keep in touch.

The first stop was about 1/2 a mile away: Red’s Meadow Resort. They have a small market and you can ship resupply packages to them. We ate breakfast at their Mulehouse Cafe, and then divvied up our resupply package.

Sometime that morning, I got in touch with a friend who lives in Mammoth Lakes, and was one of the members of my first JMT thru-hike back in 1980. As it turns out, his mom (who was also part of that 1980 thru-hike) and dad were in town, and they surprised us with a visit at Red’s Meadow.

We ended up spending all morning hanging out with Don and Zandra, reminiscing about our 1980 JMT thru-hike and catching up. Before we knew it, it was lunch time… so back to the cafe we went.

Get the Milkshake

When (not if) you stop at the Mulehouse Cafe in Red’s Meadow, you must order a milkshake. With whipped cream.

It may very well be the best milkshake you have ever tasted. 

After lunch, with full bellies and full packs, we were finally ready to hit the trail.

There are quite a few trails criss-crossing the Red’s Meadow area, and getting on the right one is important. We found the JMT and headed south.

Almost immediately, we emerged in a fire-scarred mountainside. The area is full of new growth, with new pine trees, lupen, and ferns everywhere. And not a bit of shade for quite a while. Being the middle of the day, the sun beat down on us as we climbed out of the valley.

We came upon a mountain spring that percolated into a creek right before our eyes.

After two miles, we finally exited the fire damaged area and entered the cool shade of the forest again.

Crossing Crater Creek at the 3.6 mile mark, we stopped for a break in the shade of the forest.

Lost on the JMT

At the Crater Creek crossing, we met another group of JMT thru-hikers that we had crossed paths with a couple times before. This family group had a teen who it seems ended up on the wrong trail, and they were trying to locate him. Their story has a happy ending. They found the teen (he had headed north instead of south) and were able to continue their journey.

The lesson? Two heads are better than one. If you’re hiking with a group, have a plan to stick together, or meet up at trail junctions. 

The last three miles were easy and scenic. Most of the time we were near either Crater Creek or Deer Creek. There were wildflowers, meadows, and gentle grades. We were all glad to have had an easy “half day” of hiking.

Devil’s Postpile, Red’s Meadow to Deer Creek

JMT Day 7 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we hike to Tully Hole.

Originally hiked on August 2, 2010.

Day Five on the John Muir Trail…

Yesterday’s hike up Lyell Canyon was relatively easy. Today, we would hit several big milestones. First, we would hike over our first serious pass. At 11,056 ft, Donohue Pass was still covered with snow, and the altitude was as high as we had been on the JMT so far. We would also pass the 50 mile mark. And we would bid adieu to Yosemite… and hello to the Ansel Adams Wilderness in Inyo National Forest.

John Muir Trail Day 5

Distance: 9.7 miles
Cumulative Distance: 50.5 miles
Total Ascent: 2,200 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 14,770 ft
Harrison Map Sheets 12 and 11

One of the great things about hiking the John Muir Trail is that you are never very far from a water source. There are only a few stretches where we really needed to carry more than a liter of water with us. If we needed more water, we would stop and filter more.

We crossed the bridge over Lyell Fork and headed out.

Some of the creek crossings were a little sketchy. You either hiked through the icy cold water, or carefully stepped one foot in front of the other, placing them on the slippery stones and doing your best not to fall in. We were glad we had our trekking poles. We made a point to always have three points of contact with the ground. 

At some of the lakes, there are feint trails that run around the perimeter. It’s easy to mistake these for “the” trail, but we knew we would be climbing and stuck to our uphill trajectory.

There were numerous rivulets that crossed the trail, as well as a wide range of wildflowers.

Soon we were high above the canyon, and ready to ascend the final incline to the pass. We stopped to look back on the canyon we just climbed out of.

We passed one last lake and started up a granite trail that was fully exposed. Well above the tree line, we were nearing the crest of Donohue Pass.

We reached the pass and took an early (and well deserved lunch break). Our trail mascot Yoda was proud.

From Donohue Pass, we split in two groups. Joan and I hiked on to our camp for the night at Thousand Island Lake. Jeffrey and Hari decided to tackle rocky Donohue Peak. There is no trail up Donohue Peak; it’s mainly boulder scrambling (no technical climbing required). Even so, it’s a slog up and back down. They were rewarded for their efforts with some amazing views.

From Donohue Pass, there is a long downhill trudge. The sun was warm and our spirits were high. And we still had about six miles to go. The scenery changed as we once again descended below the tree line and crossed Rush Creek.

Watch the trail signs carefully. Several trails converge in this area, and you don’t want to take the wrong trail. From the creek, we climbed towards Island Pass. This pass is easy to miss, because it’s really a wide, broad saddle dotted with little ponds. The distinctive feature? Jaw-dropping views of the majestic Minarets, their jagged peaks rising dramatically above you to the west.

Finally, we came into view of Thousand Island Lake.

This is a huge lake. No, it doesn’t really have a thousand islands. Yes, it does have a LOT of islands–more than I care to count. And it sits directly below the spectacular Banner Peak.

The trail winds down to the outlet of Thousand Island Lake. There is no camping around the outlet, so we had to follow the northern shore for about half a mile before we found a suitable campsite. We settled in, refilled our water bottles and pitched our tent. Jeffrey and Hari strolled in just in time for dinner — tired but proud to have bagged Donohue Peak.

Repelling Mosquitos: A Natural Approach

The mosquitos were pretty bad at Thousand Island Lake. I chose not to use repellent. My approach? Long pants and long sleeves. When I needed, I wore a mosquito net over my head. Once at camp, I could get into my tent until sundown. Most of the mosquitos disappear when the sun sets and the temperature dips, so I could cook and eat my dinner in peace.

Thousand Island Lake is one of my favorite places. It’s beauty always inspires me. And it’s a popular destination that many people hike to out of Mammoth Lakes. For these reasons, it’s crowded and attracts bears. We were all using bear canisters and didn’t have any problems, but we did hear some noise from other campsites that had to chase off bears.

The map below shows the general route we took, and the gallery below includes additional photos in chronological order.

Upper Lyell Canyon to Donohue Pass, Island Pass and Thousand Island Lake

JMT Day 5 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we hike to Red’s Meadow.

Originally hiked on July 31, 2010.

Day Four on the John Muir Trail

I was looking forward to this day. The mileage was a little easier, and the first nine miles were up the almost imperceptible incline of Lyell Canyon. Getting in later than expected on Day Three meant hanging around until the Tuolumne Meadows Post Office opened so we could pick up our resupply package.

While we waited, we feasted on tasty breakfast burritos at the café. The post office doesn’t open until 9am, and then we had to divvy up the foodstuffs, squeeze everything into our bear canisters and reload our packs. As we were repacking, we met some fellow JMT thru-hikers also picking up their resupply. I’ve found that camaraderie amongst backcountry hikers is effortless.  As John Muir said, “One touch of Nature makes the whole world kin.” You feel that kinship among just about everyone you meet on the trail. I think Muir was on to something.

John Muir Trail Day 4

Distance: 10.25 miles
Cumulative Distance: 40.75 miles
Total Ascent: 1,475 ft
Cumulative Ascent: 12,570 ft
Harrison Map Sheet 12
GPX file

The trail up Lyell Canyon was heavenly. Well, the first nine miles or so.

First off, the trail is soft, smooth and straight. It’s as close to level as you’ll see on the JMT. And it parallels the sublime waters of the Lyell Fork creek. The waters of Lyell Fork were so clear and so stunning, it was difficult to keep out of the water. So we jumped in! 

At our lunch break, Joan and I (Jeffrey and Hari were up ahead, as routine) found a secluded boulder outcrop next to a wide, deep section of the creek. We kicked our boots off and stretched out on the boulders like lizards in the sun. When it got a little too warm, we jumped into the invigorating water, washing away the trail grime and sweat. It was heaven on earth.

We lazily lounged about for two hours, enjoying the perfect setting, and then decided we’d better hit the trail again if we were going to make camp before nightfall.

Enjoying the Journey

We found that by the end of the day, we were so exhausted, that after cleaning up from dinner, we just wanted to climb into our tent to sleep. I loved our long lunches when we lounged, soaked our tired feet in the water, and took some time to enjoy the moment.

Our elevation gain for the day was modest by JMT standards (about 1,475 ft). But most of it was in the last mile. The trail is made up of granite steps better suited to horses than humans. This makes sense because both the JMT and the PCT were designed specifically to support horses, explaining in part the giant-sized steps we climbed to our camp for the night.

We made camp at Upper Lyell Canyon, just before the wooden bridge. There are a number of great camp sites here, and they are spread out far enough that although we had seen other hikers there, we weren’t aware of their presence when we were at our camp site.

Lyell Fork runs rapid here, so filtering water required extra caution. We didn’t want to fall in or lose any equipment.

And at an elevation of 9,670 ft, we were nearing the tree line. Tomorrow we’d be heading over snow-covered Donohue Pass and saying good-bye to Yosemite.

Tuolumne Meadows to Upper Lyell Canyon

This map details our journey on Day 4 of the JMT, from Tuolumne Meadows to Upper Lyell Canyon. You’ll notice that the trail follows a nice, gentle slope for the first nine miles, then ends with a strenuous climb. Phew!

JMT Day 4 Photo Gallery

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Tomorrow, we hike over Donohue and Island Pass and down to Thousand Island Lake. 

Originally hiked on July 30, 2010. 

A little over two years ago, Derek (@100Peaks), Peter (@ADKinLA) and I journeyed out into the Anza Borrego desert and hiked up Whale Peak. Thus was born the first Hiking Blogger Summit. Last year we had an expanded gathering with a hike in the local Schabarum Regional Park. And this weekend, Derek, Peter and I were joined by Josh (@CaliFromMyLens) and Zac (@ZacApplegate) for another summit adventure.

Trail Details

Distance: 9 miles
Time: ~6 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 3,920 ft
Dogs: Yes
When to go: Year-round

Here are the five peaks, in order of ascent:

• San Gabriel Peak – 6,161 ft.
• Mt. Disappointment – 5,963 ft.
• Mt. Deception – 5,796 ft.
• Mt. Markham – 5,728 ft.
• Mt. Lowe – 5,574 ft.

The Tale of the Trail

At 8am, we met at the Eaton Saddle trailhead, at an elevation of 5,120 feet. Our trail began on a fire road littered with rocks, reminding us that this area is prone to rock slides.

As you round the first bend, the Mueller Tunnel comes into view. This tunnel was originally built in 1942. About 100 yards long, it suffered a major collapse in 2007, but has since been repaired. While this tunnel used to be technically passable by vehicles, the road is now blocked by several large boulders near the entrance–still plenty of room for hikers and mountain bikers to weave through.

At the 1/2 mile mark, we reached the junction at a water tank. To the left, the trail heads to Mt. Lowe. We headed to the right, toward our first summit of the day, San Gabriel Peak.

The mountain still bears scars from the Station Fire in 2009. You hike through eerie stands of dead, charred manzanita that once shaded the trail.

There are some trees that have survived, but one of the most common plants you’ll encounter on these trails is the dreaded Poodle Dog Bush. This invasive species thrives in areas scarred by wildfires. It has a pungent odor and purple flowers when blossoming. The Poodle is said to be more dangerous than poison oak. Contact can cause a rash, blistering or even severe respiratory distress.

You can see the Poodle Dog Bush here, very green and lush. On most of the trail we were able to avoid contact, with the exception of Mt. Markham. I was thankful I had long sleeves and long pants on that segment, as incidental contact became unavoidable. It is said that the symptoms can take a few days to show up, so exercise caution with this plant.

At Mile 1, we reached a second junction. To the left is Mt Disappointment. We followed the trail to the right for the final .36 miles to the summit of San Gabriel Peak.

The summit of San Gabriel Peak is marked with a cairn. There’s also a makeshift steel bench and the remnants of the foundation from a structure long since gone.

We signed the summit register, soaked in the views, and headed back down to the junction, this time heading toward the communications towers atop Mt. Disappointment. This “trail” is a paved, private access road for the communications equipment. The summit itself is aptly named. There’s not really a notable peak anymore. It was leveled and used as Nike missile site from 1955-1965.

How did Mt. Disappointment get its name? The name dates back to 1894, when USGS surveyors were mapping the area. They initially thought it to be the highest peak in the immediate area, but were “disappointed” to find that nearby San Gabriel Peak was 167 feet higher. They had to move all their gear over there for their next triangulation point.

Two peaks down, we turned back down the paved access road, this time turning left (west) and heading to Mt. Deception. At 3.1 miles, there is a dirt trail off the left (south) side of the road. Follow that up a steep slope with loose rock. Trekking poles would be handy here. The trail continues west for another 0.4 miles to the summit of Mt. Deception. This summit is not very prominent, and thick with brush. We signed our third trail register, and retraced our steps back to the original junction at the water tank.

It was 11:40am. We had hiked nearly 5.25 miles, and it was time for a decision. Do we take the easy half mile back to the cars? Or do we bag a couple more peaks? Inspired by the vision of a well-earned meal afterwards, we opted to hike yet another, and headed up the trail to Mt. Lowe.

At the 5.8 mile mark, we reached the junction to Mt. Markham. Mt. Markham is taller than Mt. Lowe, and the trail is steep and tough. There were steep sections where it was helpful to use your hands to scramble up the rocks. And the dreaded Poodle Dog Bush was unavoidable. But the reward at the summit is a remarkable stone cairn.

Four peaks down. One to go.

We retraced our steps to the junction with the Mt. Lowe trail, and headed out for one more peak. At mile 6.8, we reached the junction with a trail that heads towards Mt. Wilson. We turned right, heading upward and winding around to the summit of Mt. Lowe.

At mile 7, the last junction before the summit. If in doubt, head uphill, since you’re only 1/10th of a mile from the summit of Mt. Lowe.

After five hours and seven miles of hiking, we reached our fifth summit: Mt. Lowe. There is very little shade, but there is a nice bench. You’ve got great views in all directions, and a series of “peak spotters” posted to help you identify neighboring summits.

Mt. Lowe is named for Professor Thaddeus S. C. Lowe, who in the late 1800’s built a scenic mountain railway from Alta Dena to the base of Mt. Lowe. The railway as well as the hotel and chalet at Echo Mountain have been gone for years — victim to a series of disasters.

From here, we headed back down the trail–an easy, gradual two mile downhill trek to our cars.

Five Peaks Trail Map

Photo Gallery

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Advice for Hiking San Gabriel Peak

• The trailhead parking requires a National Forest Adventure Pass. You can pick this up at many SoCal sporting goods stores.
• This trail is hot and dry, and there are no water sources. Bring plenty of water and food for energy. It can be uncomfortably hot in the summer.
• There is very little shade on the trail. Wear sun protection.
• The poisonous Poodle Dog Bush is prevalent. Avoid contact. Wear long sleeves and long pants.
• Trekking poles are recommended on Mt Deception and Mt Markham.
• There can be snow up here in the winter months. Plan and dress accordingly, and check for road closures.
• Dogs are allowed on these trails, but keep them on leash.
• We encountered one rattlesnake, but there are many more. Stay alert.

Other San Gabriel Peak Resources

• GPS user? Download the GPX file.
• View the trail in Google Earth.
• Trailhead directions via Google Maps
• San Gabriel Peak – Dan’s Hiking Pages (note that the tunnel has in fact reopened)
• Mt Lowe Fire Road to San Gabriel Peak – Hikespeak

Get a Second Opinion

This being a group of five hiking bloggers, we all have opinions. I’ll post links to the posts from the other hikers as they go live.

• 5 Peaks, 5-ish Hours – Hiking San Gabriel Mountain – Peter 
• Five Peaks in the San Gabriels: An Epic One Day Adventure – Josh & Zac

San Gabriel Peak Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”Mt Wilson, CA”]

There are hikes, and then there are adventures. This hike up Whale Peak in the Anza Borrego State Park was a bit of both. This trail guide is one part throw-back (the hike was over two years ago), and one part a cautionary tale of what happens when three experienced hikers venture out into the Anza Borrego desert to bag the 5,348′ Whale Peak.

Trail Details

Distance: 9.5 miles
Time: 6 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 3,250 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Fall to Spring

The plan proposed by Derek was a San Diego-based hike, since most of us hadn’t really explored that area. He suggested a 4-mile trip up Whale Peak, and then a car ride to a second hike up Vulcan Peak near Julian. Being the 100Peaks guy and our resident San Diego area expert, we differed to his wisdom.

We met up down in San Diego in the early morning hours and carpooled out to Anza Borrego. Our trailhead was off a rugged dirt road, passable by a car, but only with caution. The Xterra might have been a better choice in this case.

We found a place to park, and headed on foot down the road until we found what we believed to be the wash leading to the trailhead. No signage, but a quick check of our map and it appeared to be the right spot. I had my Garmin Trek GPS, mainly for tracking our journey. Derek also had a GPS and topo map, and it seemed we were starting off from the right point.

The “trail” was difficult to follow. Pretty quickly it disappeared entirely. We realized that the actual trailhead we were looking for was further down the dirt road, but figured we could go cross-country and meetup with the intended trail.

This we did, going up and down over several ridges, dodging cholla and clambering over boulders.

Finally we found our trail and headed to Whale Peak.The peak itself is more broad than angular, and the high point only found by climbing the big boulder to the USGS benchmark. The 360-degree views of Anza Borrego were phenomenal.

The hike back should’ve been a piece of cake, but even that didn’t go smoothly. Peter was having some pain in his knees, and lagged behind. One minute, he was within sight. Next minute, he was out of sight. Wrong turn down a false trail, and a ~30 minute detour.

We finally made it down to the correct trailhead, out the wash to the dirt road. Then hiked another mile+ hike on said dirt road back to our car. In the end, our four mile hike up Whale Peak turned into 9.5 miles, and we realized we’d have to save Vulcan Peak for another day.

What We Did Right

Being experienced hikers, we knew well enough to bring plenty of water and food for the day. We did have a map (for the group) and GPS as a backup. We stuck together, found our bearings, and got to our trail, and our destination. And we had a good attitude. We were up for the adventure, and flexible with our plans.

What Would I Do Differently?

First off, make sure I know the trail myself. I treated this hike like a tourist–as if I was just along for the ride. Now I make sure I know the planned route, do my own research, and bring my own map. Yes, we had a topo map for the group, but we might’ve had a better start if we shared responsibility for the pre-planning.

Of course, there are three sides to this story, so don’t take my word for it. Be sure to read the perspectives from Derek and Peter as well.

Whale Peak Trail Map

Note that this route is not recommended as-is, as it includes our impromptu cross-country jaunt. Use this to follow the dirt road to where we came back out, and take it from there. You’ll shave about four miles off the trip.

Photo Gallery

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Whale Peak Resources

• Getting to the trailhead (the REAL one) via Google Maps – High clearance vehicle recommended
• Whale Peak – Sometimes Things Don’t Go As Planned – 100Peaks.com (Derek’s perspective)
• Whale Peak of DOOM! – EastWestHike.com (Peter’s perspective)
• Whatever happened to Kolby? He hiked the PCT.
• Anza Borrego State Park – official web site

Anza Borrego Weather Forecast

[forecast width=”100%” location=”92004″]

Postscript

In spite of the hiccups on this hike, we had a great time, and no one was hurt. And last year we had an even bigger gathering of SoCal hiking bloggers at Schabarum Regional Park.

When you think of hiking in Orange County, you don’t usually envision dramatic waterfalls. But during the spring, there are a number of wonderful seasonal waterfalls that are just a hike away. One of my personal favorites is Chiquito Falls.

Trail Details

Distance: 8.6 miles
Time: ~4 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 1,409 ft
Dogs: OK
When to go: Fall–Spring

The trailhead parking is across the street from The Candy Store on Ortega Highway (Route 74). Being in the Cleveland National Forest, you’ll need to display an Adventure Pass to park. If you don’t have a pass, you can purchase one at The Candy Store. They also have a few free parking spaces behind the store.

At the northeast corner of the parking lot, you’ll see this sign marking the San Juan Loop trailhead.

There’s a map of the trails in the area as well as the usual warnings about rattlesnakes and wildlife. Note that dogs are permitted, but must be kept on a leash.

The trail climbs for a short distance, then bends around the ridge taking you by the San Juan Falls. These falls see a lot of visitors due to their close proximity to the parking lot. There are a lot of people who aren’t serious hikers. It’s also a great place to take kids to give them a taste of the wilderness.

I prefer to take a look from above, then leave the crowds behind and continue on to the more secluded and beautiful Chiquito Falls.

While you’re in the canyon, enjoy the shade of the oak trees. Most of the hike has full sun exposure.

Watch for the turn off to your right at about the 1.1 mile marker. Note that there is an unofficial turnoff before the official trail. Both cross the creek — an easy boulder hop usually — but only the second turn off has the official trail marker.

If you miss the turn and find yourself connecting back to Ortega Highway, you’ve gone too far.

Once you cross San Juan Creek, the trail parallels another tributary with good shade and a gentle climb. You’ll cross this tributary at about mile 2, and begin your ascent up the ridge.

The remaining 2+ miles to Chiquito Falls is exposed to the sun. As you climb up the ridge, you’ll be treated with some awesome panoramic views to the southeast, including Sitton Peak.

At 3.7 miles, you’ll reach the highest point on the trail — just shy of 2,700′ above sea level. Once you round the second bend, you’ll catch your first glimpse of Chiquito Falls.

As you near the falls, watch for the spur trail to the left. The main trail continues on connecting with the San Juan Trail.

The spur leads to the top of the falls, There are some great places to sit, enjoy the views and share lunch.

You can easily climb down to the base of the falls for a view from below. See the photo gallery below for more pics.

Trail Map and Elevation Profile

Getting to the Trailhead

The trailhead parking lot is directly across the street from The Candy Store on Ortega Highway 74, about 15 miles east of the 5 Freeway and San Juan Capistrano.

Chiquito Falls Trail Tips

• Remember you’ll need an National Forest Adventure Pass for parking
• Watch for rattlesnakes, particularly when the weather gets warmer
• Be sure to bring The Ten Essentials. This isn’t a walk through the ‘burbs!
• Watch for mountain bikers. This is a popular downhill route. If you see one, there are probably more following. Ask how many are behind them, and let them know how many hikers are behind you!
• The Candy Store now has a grill going on the weekends for a post-hike burger in addition to homemade fudge and cold drinks. Check their website for hours and details.
• Do you use the EveryTrail app on your smart phone? Download this guide and take it with you on the trail!

Photo Gallery

Special thanks to my girlfriend Joan for joining me on this hike, and for John from Hiking OC for introducing me to this trail.

3/26/18 Update: We’ve reduced the total vertical gain to 1,409′ thanks to SoCal hiker Paul Okada’s updated GPS data.

Crystal Cove State Park is nestled in the coastal hills between Newport and Laguna Beach. This hiking trail traces the boundaries of the inland section of the park, climbing up and down ridge and valley through coastal scrub. I love this park, not only because it’s so well located for Orange County, but because you really do feel like you’ve been transported to another place and time. As you enter the wilderness here, you soon forget that you are only a mile away from a sea of suburban tract homes. A hike through Crystal Cove is like a mini-vacation from suburbia.

Trail Details

Distance: 9.1 miles
Time: 3-5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 1,800 ft
Dogs: No
Hours: 6am-10pm daily
Parking: $15

This loop is sometimes referred to as the Perimeter of the Park hike. The trails form a loop surrounding the backcountry of Crystal Cove State Park, and provides a grand tour of its features.

The route begins at the top of the El Moro Visitor Center parking lot. Pass around the gate and head up the double-track trail known affectionately as No Dogs. (Odd only because dogs are not allowed on ANY of the trails in Crystal Cove’s backcountry). Note that the sign calls this No Name Ridge, but the maps all call it No Dogs here.

As you head up the ridge, you’ll come to a couple of junctions heading right at the power poles (the aptly named “Poles” trail). Stay left and continue up and down the roller coaster hills of No Name Ridge.

At mile 2.25 you will reach the junction with Ticketron. This single-track trail veers to the right, winding down to the Deer Canyon trail. Turn left at Deer Canyon, watching for the campground on your left.

The Deer Canyon campground is one of three backcountry campgrounds at Crystal Cove. All have picnic tables, but do not allow open flames. There are a few chemical toilets, but no water; if you want to camp here, you’ll have to backpack in with everything you need!

I wondered who would go backpacking so close to civilization, but a friend pointed out that the backcountry campgrounds at Crystal Cove makes a great location to do an equipment check. It’s close by, so you could even hike in on a Friday afternoon. And if things go awry, you’re not far from the comforts of civilization.

Follow the Deer Canyon trail all the way up to the back of the park, passing through the gate to the Bommer Ridge trail. Technically, Bommer Ridge is part of neighboring Laguna Wilderness, but this trail is preferable to the parallel Fences trail that gets a lot of mountain bikers.

At about mile 4.75 you’ll reach Moro Ridge. Turn right through the gate and follow this ridge back towards the coastline. Along the way, you’ll pass two campgrounds on your right (Upper and Lower El Moro).

This ridge gives you great views of the ocean, Moro Canyon to you right and Emerald Canyon to your left. If you’re alert, you may also see artifacts from the days when this land was used for cattle and sheep herding.

Eventually you’ll turn right on to the affectionately titled BFI (Big F-ing Incline) trail, descending to Moro Canyon and the final hill back to the visitor center.

Reward yourself with a milkshake at the Shake Shack about a mile north on Coast Highway.

Trail Map

Photo Gallery

Essential Crystal Cove State Park Resources

• Official Crystal Cove State Park website
• SoCal Hiker’s Inside Crystal Cove State Park
• Crystal Cove Interpretive Association
• You can pay your Crystal Cove day-use fees using the Passport Parking app after you safely park your vehicle. Complementary ParksWiFi is available to assist with processing your payment.
• Ruby’s Shake Shack

If there’s a full moon tonight (and there is) it must be time for a Boat Canyon night hike.

Boat Canyon is a terrific 8.2 mile hike in the Laguna Coast Wilderness Park, climbing up above Boat Canyon, dropping down to Laguna Canyon Road and climbing back up again before returning to the trailhead — it’s a serious workout! There are fantastic ocean views and it makes a fun hike to do in the evening with the trail lit by the full moon.

Trail Details

Distance: 8.2 miles
Time: ~3 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous
Elevation gain: 2,769 ft
Dogs: No
When to go: Year round

Pass the gate and head up the hill on Boat Road. At the first junction, you can take a short detour to the left for panoramic views up and down the Orange County coastline, including Laguna Beach and Newport Coast. Backtrack to the junction and continue up Boat Road. The next junction comes at the ridge. You’ll turn left here and head down Bommer Ridge.

Take the steep Big Bend Trail (the first right) down almost all the way to Laguna Canyon Road. The trail is well marked to the left and the Big Bend parking area, but take the lesser traveled trail to the right. This trail parallels Laguna Canyon Road back towards the coast before finally turning back uphill on the steep Laguna Ridge Trail.

When you reach the top of the ridge, you’ll jog to the right about five yards and turn left on Boat Road, returning the way you came and completing the lollipop loop.

I’ve hiked this several times with a group during full moons, although officially the park closes at sundown. I don’t know of anyone who has received one, but you technically could get a citation for doing this after the park is closed. Consider yourself warned!

Tips for a Moonlight Hike

• Don’t go alone! There is safety in numbers. Go with others and stick together.
• Have the Ten Essentials, especially a flashlight or headlamp with fresh batteries.
• Make sure someone knows where you will be, and when you expect to return.

Trail Map and Elevation Profile

Photo Gallery

Additional Resources

• Laguna Coast Wilderness trail map (1.2 MB PDF)
• GPS user? Download the GPX file
• 3D trail view in Google Earth

At 3,273 feet above sea level, Sitton Peak has commanding 360 degree views of the Cleveland National Forest. On clear days, you can see the ocean and  even Catalina Island. The elevation gain and distance makes this a good intermediate level hike.

Trail Details

Distance: 10 miles
Time: 4 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation gain: 2,150 ft
Dogs: OK
When to go: Fall through Spring

As you get closer to Sitton Peak, keep an eye out for the trail marker (it will be on your right). The “trail” to the top is not maintained and often overgrown. If you’re not paying attention, you could pass it by. The last quarter mile requires a little scrambling and bushwacking to reach the summit. No special equipment required, but you might want long pants to protect your legs from scratches.

The summit makes a great place to break for a snack or lunch and enjoy the views. When it’s clear, you can see the Pacific Ocean. On the return trip, take the ridge trail option. It adds a little extra mileage, but gives you some different scenery to enjoy and takes you back to the same junction with the Morgan Trail.

There is no water along the trail, so bring plenty for the round trip. This area gets pretty hot in the summer months. It’s still do-able, but you’ll enjoy the fall through spring season best. If possible, hike this on a clear day so you can really appreciate the views.

Trailhead

There is ample parking in a lot across Ortega Highway from the Candy Store (Google Map). You’ll need a National Forest Adventure Pass, which can also be purchased at the Candy Store. If you do more than six hikes in National Forest a year, it’s worth buying the annual pass.

Photo Gallery

Click any image for a larger version, and to browse through all of the photos.

Additional Resources

• Sitton Peak USGS Topo Map
• Sitton Peak trail topo with elevation profile

Trail Details

Distance: 9.6 miles
Elev. gain: 1,804 feet
Duration: 3 hours, 55 minutes (with a long lunch break)
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs are allowed
Best time to hike: October through May (too hot during the summer)

The hike is mostly uphill to the turnaround point, but not too steep.

Trailhead

A parking lot directly across from the Candy Store on Ortega Highway (map). A National Forest Adventure Pass is required. The day pass can be purchased at the Candy Store.

Post Hike Considerations

The Candy Store sells sandwiches, chocolate dipped strawberries and homemade fudge, among other things. Or if you want to reward yourself with a well-earned cerveza, you can head a little further up Ortega Highway to a biker bar called Hell’s Kitchen. It’s not as rough as it sounds, and you can get a burger and a beer.  The condiments are served in a casket!

Morgan Trail Map and Elevation Profile

Morgan Trail Photo Gallery

Download to view 3D in Google Earth